Smack unit quit...

[wpage]

After some several months of success with my smack HHO unit in my vehicle it quit on me.
Took it out and cleaned it tightened up the components put in new electrolytes and got a good continuity test.

Reinstalled it and it still not producing. I get battery to the + terminal but nothing on my amp meter in line...

Any suggestions for next step to get it going

W

[rickoff]

RE: Smack Booster quit

I don't know where your ground cable is connected to, but chances seem good that you are not getting an adequate ground. Chassis grounds are sometimes not sufficient, especially for high current draws. Temporarily clamp your positive cable directly to the battery positive so that you bypass PWM, circuit breaker, switch, etc., and your negative cable directly to the engine block to assure a proper ground. If the booster then works, reattach the other components one at a time and retest after each reattachment to determine the failing component. If the booster did not work after wiring it direct, then obviously the booster is at fault. Let us know your results.

Best wishes,

Rick

[wpage]

Thanks Ric

Good suggestion on the Grounding...

Going to pull it apart and recondition it 1st. After pulling it again. Inspection revealed some corosion under the cap on the connecting terminals.

Some sanding and grinding may do the trick...

Looked like some overheating may have indented some of the PVC on the cap as well. Will have to see wether or not distortion is saveable.

Will let you know how it goes


W

[rickoff]

Re: Distortion of PVC cap

W, I highly suggest that you check out my top endcap modifications, which I have posted on my SkyDrive:
Modified Smack Booster - Windows Live SkyDrive

I normally had no problems due to overheating, because I only used my truck for relatively short runs of 30 minutes or so. Upon loading my truck and taking a 3 hour trip to my cottage in DownEast Maine this summer, I saw what heat could do. After about 50 minutes, my ammeter continued to rise to 30 amps, at which time the circuit breaker stopped the booster. I withdrew about 10 ounces of the water/electrolyte mix (using a turkey baster through my blowout device) and topped off the booster with distilled water.
That helped drop the amperage back to about 20, and I continued my trip. About an hour later, I suddenly saw the plastic bag material of my blowout device being shot upwards through the air. I immediately shut my dashboard booster switch off, and pulled over to check things out. As I stepped out of my truck cab, I could smell burnt PVC. The top cap showed obvious signs of melting adjacent to the positive terminal, and I instantly understood the problem. When assembling my top cap terminal assemblies, I had adopted someone's suggestion of using lock washers to keep the electrical connection secure just in case the PVC distorted enough so as to make the bolts loosen. This sounded like a good idea, but it isn't. When the PVC reaches a temperature that causes it to soften enough to become slighly pliable, the lockwashers begin to expand against the PVC, thus squeezing the flat and rubber washers into the PVC. When the flat washers make direct contact with the PVC, this greatly accellerates heat buildup, and the PVC starts to melt, smolder, and then burn. At that instant, the Hydroxy gas inside the booster ignited. The blowout device functioned nicely, preventing any damage to the booster, so I only needed to clean out the booster and make a new top cap. I made my new cap with modifications that utilize nylon bushings surrounding the bolts where they pass through the PVC cap, and reconfigured my terminal bolts so as to maintain tight connections without placing any pressure against the PVC. I posted a complete series of hi-res photos and instructions on my Sky Drive to show all procedures for creating the improved end cap, and highly advise that others adopt my modifications. I have had no problems since implementing these cap modifications, and can run my booster at 25 amps for extended periods. I can also run up to 30 amps without damage, but then lose production when the circuit breaker trips, so I attempt to keep my electrolyte level adjusted for a 20 to 25 amp draw. I still have the burned cap at home and will take a photo of that to post so that others can see it and avoid having that happen to them. I'll have to wait until I get back home to do that, though, since I am currently at my cottage, preparing to close it up for the season.

Best regards to all,

Rick

[wpage]

Nice pic's Rick

Rick,
Thanks for sharing your work. Very nice unit you built.

Think after seeing your set up while having mine on the bench. Will take some of your cap inovations and incorporate into mine. Since my cap had a minor meltdown its a good time to toss it and go with your advanced design...

Looks like the heat was the cause of failure to smack unit

W

[wpage]

Up and going again!

After replacing the cap and completely rebuilding many of the components it is back up and running on the test bed...

Tommorrow its back on the truck for a test run

Rick O thanks again for the help

It was the heat that killed the cap. I must run the electrolyte mix a little lighter.

W

[rickoff]

Burned Booster Cap photos

I have posted the burned cap photos on my Sky Drive, and they can be seen here: Booster Cap Burns - Windows Live SkyDrive

Full cap modifications, photos, and details to avoid this problem are now displayed here: Modified Smack Booster - Windows Live SkyDrive

The Explanatory Document file is also found there and is now completed. I had completed it several days ago, but evidently the upload and overwrite at my SkyDrive did not take that time around. Sorry for that inconvenience to anyone who attempted to read the document, but it is there now. I update and add to the SkyDrive files frequently, so you may want to check them now and then for new and helpful ideas. I also attempt to provide additionally useful information in the Comments are below the files, and to answer questions posted below the My Smack Booster photo.

W - Glad to hear you are back in business. You may want to try running a 25 amp circuit breaker rather than the 30 amp one normally used. When you cross that threshold between 25 and 30 amps, the majority of amperage over 25 goes into producing heat rather than HHO. Wrapping the plate array in 4" heat wrap (available at www.McmasterCarr.com) will also help to reduce heat buildup. Order part # 7132K524, which comes in a package of five 6" lengths for $18.65. This material is good to temperatures above boiling, and has better chemical resistance than polyolefin, which costs considerably more. Just be sure to leave the top and bottom of the plate array open to allow good water circulation.

Best regards to all,

Rick