John Urbanowski Amazing Radiant Battery Charger

[gotoluc]

Hi everyone,

I am posting on behalf of John Urbanowski Youtube user name: johncarl43447

I believe he has found a radiant self charging battery oscillator circuit and I feel he needs my help in sharing his findings.

I have been following his work for the past 2 months and his new oscillator circuit is quite remarkable and deserves our attention.

Today we talked on the phone for over one hour and he is willing to share as much as he can or knows. His electronic knowledge is limited just like mine is but that should not be a problem.

What is so remarkable in his circuit is the feed batteries are the same as his charge batteries He has 2 12 volt lead acid batteries in series but I think one of the reasons he is able to do this is maybe because one of the battery has a taps at every cell. In the USA they call those Antique batteries. The other remarkable thing is, no matter the load or how long it is connected the battery voltage does not go down if the oscillator is in operation.

See his video: YouTube - Radiant Oscillator 6

Today as we were talking he told me that last night he was testing using his Antique battery to feed the 14v to the main coil and 20v to relay but routed the BEMF leads to 2 (non Antique style) 12v batteries in series to see if he could get the same effect. He confirmed that it worked the same and he even had a 10 amp load on one 12v side of one battery and the voltage on that battery went from 12.25 to 12.22 after one hour.

I asked him to make a hand drawing of his main circuit he used in the video and it is below. One thing to note is he has 2 extra coils he added to tune the circuit which are not in the schematic. We will give the details on these but the circuit should give the general effect as per schematic.

If we could have a volunteer to make a clean schematic with the details please let me know.

His main coil is on a plastic spool which has a 1 inch core and is 3.5 inch long and coil is about 3 inches in diameter. He used a full roll of Radio Shack green enamel mag wire which is 75 feet of 26 gauge as transistor relay trigger coil and wound that first and then over top that is 1,000 turns of 19 gauge mag wire. He filled the 1 inch core of the coil with strips of plastic coated wire used in construction to tie metal re-bar together. He has a diode to collect BEMF on the main coil and on the relay coil. The relay coil is an automotive 30 amp to which he opened and uses a set screw to tune the pulse. He also has a ceramic magnet to help tuning. The transistor he is using is model SC1768. Please also note 2 pots he uses also to tune his trigger coil. A 1uf microwave oven capacitor is used to smooth the spark at the relay and the ground of that capacitor should go to the - (minus) of the marine battery. He did not draw it since he would of had to jump over 3 wires and though it would look confusing.

Thank you all for looking and your help.

Luc

[Sephiroth]

Interesting, I'll check out his vids!

I'm not great with circuit design, but just so I could see the circuit I drew a quick sketch that might help someone else make a better quality layout.

Looks like a bedini SSG circuit built for solid state oscillation with the transistor triggering a relay to energise the coil and the flyback from the relay's coil is being captured as well.

the cells in red is the "Antique Battery"

(I don't have much space left in my attachment box so I'll delete this schematic once a more professional copy is available )

[Sephiroth]

In fact, I just noticed he is not using a flyback diode on the trigger side so it is possible the wires coming from the trigger coil are the other way around.

[gotoluc]

Interesting, I'll check out his vids!

I'm not great with circuit design, but just so I could see the circuit I drew a quick sketch that might help someone else make a better quality layout.

Looks like a bedini SSG circuit built for solid state oscillation with the transistor triggering a relay to energise the coil and the flyback from the relay's coil is being captured as well.

the cells in red is the "Antique Battery"

(I don't have much space left in my attachment box so I'll delete this schematic once a more professional copy is available )

Hi Sephiroth,

thanks for the quick schematic and reply. I took the liberty to make 2 minor changes.

Please have a look to see if that works for you. If it's okay you can go ahead and delete it from your post to get your attachment space back.

Thanks

Luc

[gmeat]

Hi Gotoluc,


Thx for showing us this video.The one thing that sticks out to me is that it appears that this circuit will only allow 20volts to exit the battery but will allow a return spike to ENTER at 24 volt terminal.Anyone else have any Ideas what might be happening.Just trying to decipher what might be happening here.Thx again


-Gary

[gotoluc]

In fact, I just noticed he is not using a flyback diode on the trigger side so it is possible the wires coming from the trigger coil are the other way around.

I'm not sure. Let me look at this more... added: Seems to be a problem there ... added: nope I don't see a problem but then again I'm no EE... added: Is it the pots that should be on the base side of the transistor that you are talking about?

Luc

[ashtweth]

Guys attachment space can be saved by uploading pics and Schemo's at imageshack.us

[gotoluc]

Guys attachment space can be saved by uploading pics and Schemo's at imageshack.us

Thanks Ash for the good suggestion

Cheers mate

Luc

[Sephiroth]

I mean the top and bottom leads may be the other way around (the bottom lead going to the pots and the top lead conneted to the transistor's emitter.

That way the flyback will trigger the transistor but there will be a delay between the transistor turning on and the relay turning on (due to the slower response time of the relay) and so there will be time for the field to fully discharge before the coil energises again.

[gyula]

I mean the top and bottom leads may be the other way around (the bottom lead going to the pots and the top lead conneted to the transistor's emitter.

That way the flyback will trigger the transistor but there will be a delay between the transistor turning on and the relay turning on (due to the slower response time of the relay) and so there will be time for the field to fully discharge before the coil energises again.

Hi,

I do not think it matters which leads of the trigger coil go to the emitter and to the pots from the turn-on point of view because the current going into the base of the transistor is established by the induced voltage amplitude in the coil and the resistance of the pots and it should be the same current.

However, it does matter which leads of the trigger coil go to the emitter and to the pots from the oscillator point of view if the goal is to make an oscillator and surely this seems to be the case.

The interesting thing is that the relay is switched on by the transistor and it is very true a transistor is able to switch on faster than a relay does.

Another notice is you have to start up the oscillator by some means, it does not seem to start when the batteries are connected because the base trigger coil is coupled to the 1000 turn coil which is not in the collector of the oscillator transistor. It is the relay contacts which give any current to the 1000 turn coil to make any possible induction towards the trigger coil. John U. may start the oscillator by closing the relay contacts for a moment by his hand.

The relay contacts must be sparking 'thoroughly' I mean they must withstand much abuse because it is the 1000 turn coil's DC copper resistance that establishes the peak current through the contacts (hence through the coil) directly from the batteries.

Another notice on the relay contacts' wear out is they short-circuit the 1uF capacitor when they close (i.e. just when the relay switches on the current for the 1000 turn coil) and any energy stored in the cap gets dissipated in the contacts area in heat and in the wires of course. Surely the capacitor has a better service with its energy storing job during the relay's switch-off periodes...

A very interesting setup for sure!

rgds, Gyula

[Agongon]

Thanks for the effort of presenting this to us gotoluc. It's a remarkable setup. It's something like induced voltage twice. The first is used to power the light and the other to limit the current at maximum resonance.

The + source of the primary coil should be on the first cell positive post of the 12-volt battery [ 2-volt cell X 6 ] on the newly drawn schematic, instead on the second cell which is 16 volt [ notice the original drawing of John U set at 14 volt].

[gotoluc]

Hi Gyula,

Thanks for looking and posting your comments.

I will be calling John U. today to ask a few questions, so if you have any questions please post them and I will ask.

Luc

[gotoluc]

Thanks for the effort of presenting this to us gotoluc. It's a remarkable setup. It's something like induced voltage twice. The first is used to power the light and the other to limit the current at maximum resonance.

Hi Agongon,

thanks for looking and posting.

Yes it is very interesting what he has done. I think resonance is the key word here since he has spent much time tuning his relay and adding some hand wound chokes.

I have found in my own tests that switching is one thing but a tuned switch is something else

I think this is what we are missing in using a transistor as main switch.

Time will tell

Luc

[Peter Lindemann]

Time Will Tell.....

Hi Guys,

Sorry to burst your bubble of enthusiasm here, but this system is NOT doing what is reported. I worked with John Bedini for over a year and a half, and we built a wide variety of systems similar to this. Mr. Urbanowski is at the very BEGINNING of his experiments here. His batteries are huge in comparison to the power of his charger, so the time constant of the charge-discharge cycle is DAYS. His little 4 minute snapshot of the voltage rising by a few hundredths of a volt on his digital meter is MEANINGLESS, in the truest sense of that word.

The issue here is the voltages he is showing on his large battery bank. For standard, liquid electrolyte lead-acid cells, 12.6 volts is the standing voltage of a fully charged battery and 12.1 volts is the standing voltage of a battery that is 80% discharged. So, for these huge batteries, 25.2 volts is fully charged and 24.2 is 80% dead. He is showing voltages on his digital meter down in the 23.6 volt range, so these batteries are VERY DEPLETED and their internal impedance is much higher than usual. Therefore, their response to the radiant voltage tickle they are getting from the charger is dramatically accentuated on the positive side. This does NOT represent an increase in the state of charge of the battery, as is supposed. What you are seeing on the meter is a rise of "surface tension" between the radiant push of the oscillator and the high impedance of the depleted battery.

Swapping out the transistor for a mechanical contacter will make the system work a little better, because the turn off event is more abrupt than the transistor, but over time, it will not be as reliable as the transistor switch. This minor change in the circuitry DOES NOT overcome the reality of the behavior of the battery chemistry, however. Regardless of statements to the contrary, the lead-acid battery only has ONE ELECTRO-CHEMICAL PATHWAY! Ions can either move in the discharge direction (the positive plate lead-peroxide donating oxygen to the electrolyte) or the charge direction (the positive plate depleted lead absorbing oxygen back from the electrolyte). One is an electro-deplating process and the other is an electro-plating process. At the molecular level, these processes are driven by electrostatic potentials that can only be biased in one direction at a time. It is NOT POSSIBLE to charge the run battery during discharge. You are welcome to spend as much time as you like proving this to yourselves, but the answer will be the same in the end. What you have not seen in Mr. Urbanowski's experiments is the imminent COLLAPSE of his battery voltage, which will, no doubt, be a big surprise to him. As he continues to run the big headlamp, his batteries can only go DOWN. This obvious failure of his system will also go unreported.

John Bedini is the MASTER of this process, having studied it for 30 years and published extensively on the behavior of these systems. Mr. Urbanowski is a novice and there is a lot he is still learning from his experiments, but I highly recommend that his YouTube video and other reports not be inflated as to their ultimate value.

I see nothing new in his work, as reported, except proof that he has not studied what John Bedini has already published. I applaud him for running the experiments, but his work is not some new "guiding light" to be followed.

Peter

[CitizenDC]

Hi everyone,

I am posting on behalf of John Urbanowski Youtube user name: johncarl43447

I believe he has found a radiant self charging battery oscillator circuit and I feel he needs my help in sharing his findings.

I have been following his work for the past 2 months and his new oscillator circuit is quite remarkable and deserves our attention.

Today we talked on the phone for over one hour and he is willing to share as much as he can or knows. His electronic knowledge is limited just like mine is but that should not be a problem.

What is so remarkable in his circuit is the feed batteries are the same as his charge batteries He has 2 12 volt lead acid batteries in series but I think one of the reasons he is able to do this is maybe because one of the battery has a taps at every cell. In the USA they call those Antique batteries. The other remarkable thing is, no matter the load or how long it is connected the battery voltage does not go down if the oscillator is in operation.

See his video: YouTube - Radiant Oscillator 6

Today as we were talking he told me that last night he was testing using his Antique battery to feed the 14v to the main coil and 20v to relay but routed the BEMF leads to 2 (non Antique style) 12v batteries in series to see if he could get the same effect. He confirmed that it worked the same and he even had a 10 amp load on one 12v side of one battery and the voltage on that battery went from 12.25 to 12.22 after one hour.

I asked him to make a hand drawing of his main circuit he used in the video and it is below. One thing to note is he has 2 extra coils he added to tune the circuit which are not in the schematic. We will give the details on these but the circuit should give the general effect as per schematic.

If we could have a volunteer to make a clean schematic with the details please let me know.

His main coil is on a plastic spool which has a 1 inch core and is 3.5 inch long and coil is about 3 inches in diameter. He used a full roll of Radio Shack green enamel mag wire which is 75 feet of 26 gauge as transistor relay trigger coil and wound that first and then over top that is 1,000 turns of 19 gauge mag wire. He filled the 1 inch core of the coil with strips of plastic coated wire used in construction to tie metal re-bar together. He has a diode to collect BEMF on the main coil and on the relay coil. The relay coil is an automotive 30 amp to which he opened and uses a set screw to tune the pulse. He also has a ceramic magnet to help tuning. The transistor he is using is model SC1768. Please also note 2 pots he uses also to tune his trigger coil. A 1uf microwave oven capacitor is used to smooth the spark at the relay and the ground of that capacitor should go to the - (minus) of the marine battery. He did not draw it since he would of had to jump over 3 wires and though it would look confusing.

Thank you all for looking and your help.

Luc

Hi Gotoluc,

Are there any updates on this project? Have you attempted replicating he's setup?

Cheers