Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Friction Steam Boiler

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • I really like the look of Lloyd's device, hopefully I can motivate enough to try a small replication.
    Hopefully not too far off-comment, I just wanted to mention my own personal experience with the Tesla 'bladeless' turbine.
    In 1998 I got a book on the turbine, full of article reprints, photos, and patent reprints. I was enthralled by the simplicity of the device (if you want to see the basic principle of this turbine in action, turn your kitchen faucet on just enough for a clear (laminar flow) stream of water, keep the flow slow enough to avoid bubbles (cavitation). Take a pizza cutter (smooth round disk freely rotating around its center on a stick) and hold the leading 1/8" or so of the disc (pizza cutter) in the stream parallel to the stream (up and down). The adhesion of the water and its viscosity cause the smooth laminar flow to stick to the surface of the disc, dragging it around. This is the basic principle.
    Just for fun, I have built 2 models 2" diameter, the second years later because the first was so cool. They had 6 or so discs about 1.5" diameter with center pie-wedge exhaust holes about .5" diameter.
    These were mounted to a shaft inside a simple circular casing 2" diameter about .5" thick with simple exhaust ports: pie-wedge holes in the sides of the casing also .5" diameter. No bearings. These would spin up fast enough to sing in the low kHz from the sound of it (high Hz maybe? my ear ain't trained).
    The really cool part about these is I built them with an small bladed knife, compass, ruler, tape, and white glue, using index cards as the bulk of the device, a drinking straw as the nozzle, and a blowgun dart as the shaft. The discs are just circles with the pie-wedges cut out around the center like the pictures in the turbine patent application. (The fancy swirls like Jetjis cut out are for the pump design but should work fine for a turbine. Impressive work, those!)
    The casing is 2 circles about .5" diameter bigger than the rotor (stack of discs and spacers). Taped/glued to those is a strip about .5" wide and 6.5" long, with the straw flattened to about .125" on the end taped between the leading and trailing ends of the strip. In the picture, the discs are green, the casing is black, and the straw and shaft are dark blue. Not to scale and approximate. Tiny picture, I know, but windoze paint is pretty sloppy and I was in a hurry.
    My discs were too close together and weren't fastened to the shaft (the friction bit in as the speed increased), the balance was sloppy, no bearings, and come on, it was made of paper! yet, you blow bursts of air into the straw and the discs spin. The faster you blow short hard bursts into the straw the faster it would spin until up to speed, then you could blow hard extended breaths until hyperventilated. Whee! And such a nice buzzing-insect/electric-motor sound the toys made! Never tested the torque except by grabbing, lightly singed my fingers but stopped the beast.
    Sounds fantastic, I know. I mean, just try to build a waterwheel style turbine out of index cards!
    I guess my point is I built a sloppy, +-.0125" tolerance, bearingless, paper tesla turbine and it did spin up. Over and over. Well worth investigating if you have a machine shop.
    He had problems with the larger-diameter discs distorting (stretching), but those were big discs- up to 5' diameter! The smaller the diameter, the higher the happy RPM for that rotor.
    Love this forum!
    Anyone wants info from the articles or patents in that book ( "Tesla's Engine: A New Dimension For Power", compiled by Jeffery A. Hayes ) just ask.
    The valvular conduit that is part of the turbine design is really cool too, a no-moving-parts one-way valve for bursts of fluid under intermittent pressure (us patent no. 1,329,559).
    Good day!
    Attached Files

    Comment


    • Jetijs...
      Very nice... looks like it took a bit of force to stop it from spinning.. what air pressure were you using.. I see what you mean as far as the potential...Should be fantastic once you get it the way you want it.. Thanks for the show..

      Paul

      Comment


      • bigsupersquid...

        Thanks ... wouldn't want to get you in trouble with the copywrite laws, so I'll try to find a copy... You sound like I did when I first found out about Tesla and his turbine.. An amazingly simple machine and the many uses just blows me away.

        Thanks
        Paul

        Comment


        • Reply to BSS (bigsupersquid):

          Originally posted by bigsupersquid View Post
          I really like the look of Lloyd's device, hopefully I can motivate enough to try a small replication.

          He had problems with the larger-diameter discs distorting (stretching), but those were big discs- up to 5' diameter!
          Hi BSS,

          Thanks for your participation, and I do hope you find yourself motivated to try a replication. Your example of the pizza cutter is a good one. Stainless steel pizza cutters are typically about 2.5" to 3" in diameter, and around 1/32" thickness, with a bevel at the cutting edge. It is interesting to note that Tesla used twenty five tempered steel discs of 1/32" thickness in his 200 hp turbine. That's a rather thin disc for 18 inches of diameter, as used in the 200hp turbine, but tests of that device went quite well. The 25 disc rotor assembly was 3.5" wide overall. I know it has been reported that some of Tesla's larger discs distorted somewhat, but there may be a very good explanation as to how that story circulated. In a 1999 book (The Man Who Invented the Twentieth Century: Nikola Tesla, Forgotten Genius of Electricity, Robert Lomas, Headline Book Publishing) it is said that when Tesla attempted to sell his big turbines to the Allis Chalmers company, he went straight to the company chairman with his proposal. Evidently the company's engineering department was infuriated at being bypassed and ignored, and likely also felt worried that their jobs might be at stake if the Tesla proposal was adopted. After all, why would their research and development skills be needed if Tesla had already designed, built, and tested the ultimate turbine? Upon testing the turbine it is said that they deliberately gave it a bad report, stating that the dics warped under pressure. After hearing this nonsense, Tesla walked out on the proposal, disgusted with the engineers. It should be noted that this occurred around 1910, if I remember correctly, and even if the report had been true it has no bearing whatsoever on Tesla's 1923 British patent for the improved turbine design as shown in my post #282. The improved design should offer superb stability. Following this design, and with the size of the discs that we would be using, I can't imagine that we would need to worry about distortion.

          It was interesting to read about your index card turbine model. I remember reading about a Tesla air pump, made of cardboard, in the following pdf file: http://www.aircaraccess.com/pdf/taep.pdf

          The book that you mentioned is an excellent source for Tesla Turbine builders. It sells for about $20, and is written by a member of the Tesla Engine Builders Association (TEBA). If one goes to the TEBA website and buys a membership for $35, the book is included. There is also a newsletter, video instructions for builders, and a wealth of great information. TESLA ENGINE BUILDERS ASSOCIATION

          Thanks for your participation,

          Rick
          Last edited by rickoff; 02-07-2009, 09:32 AM. Reason: sp
          "Seek wisdom by keeping an open mind to alternative realities, questioning authority, and searching for truth. Only then, when you see or hear something that has 'the ring of truth' to it, will it be as if a veil has been lifted, and suddenly you will begin to hear and see far more clearly than ever before." - Rickoff

          Comment


          • Originally posted by Jetijs View Post
            Hi guys
            Here is a video of my Tesla turbine first test run:
            YouTube - Tesla turbine. First test run

            I did this only to test how it would run. I used ordinary washers as spacers, but they are not precise, their thickness is not equal and I will need to get better spacers. Also the applied air forms a narrow stream that hits just some of the blade spacings and not all. So I still have much to do. But I liked the results of this first test, there is a lot of potential in this design
            Thanks,
            Jetijs
            Nice video, Jetijs

            Judging from the rotational sound, after you cut the air supply, I would guess that your turbine was probably doing at least 10,000 rpm. The small amount of vibration shows that the balance isn't perfect, but it's still pretty darned good for high revs like that. If you could adapt some 1/2" copper tubing to the inlet, by crimping the end down to widen the air stream, and have good sealing, you may have to bolt this down so it doesn't fly away! I would bet that a perfectly directed air stream, at the same pressure, would probably come close to doubling your rpm. By the way, what air pressure were you operating at, and do you have a digital tachometer that you could use to get an rpm reading on video?

            Are you using metal discs, or did you make the discs from CD's? How many discs did you use in the assembly, and what is the thickness of the spacing washers?

            Thanks so much, and keep up the great work,

            Rick
            "Seek wisdom by keeping an open mind to alternative realities, questioning authority, and searching for truth. Only then, when you see or hear something that has 'the ring of truth' to it, will it be as if a veil has been lifted, and suddenly you will begin to hear and see far more clearly than ever before." - Rickoff

            Comment


            • Originally posted by Jetijs View Post
              Thanks Mark
              I do have access to a machine shop, but almost everything is made using my homemade cnc machine. This thing sure makes building stuff easy
              Thanks,
              Jetijs
              CNC machine sounds good to me. No skill, experience or knowledge required
              (not like that needed for operating a manual machine, that is)

              Everything except pistons and cylinders?
              Remember to be kind to your mind ...
              Tesla quoting Buddha: "Ignorance is the greatest evil in the world."

              Comment


              • Thanks Rick
                I have a tachometer and will try to measure the RPM's, but I also think that they are about 10k or more. The blade disks are 130mm in diameter and 1mm thick. The blade material is stainless steel. The air gap between the blades is around 1.5mm, but it is not equal because those spacer washers are not precise. I don't know what pressure I was using, but I have a pressure regulator and will use it in my next tests. It is sure hard to stop this thing by hand and there is a great gyroscopic effect at high RPM's. Will work now on better air distributor, so that all the gaps get equal amount of air. It's a shame that I can not use this turbine with steam, because the acrylic casing can not whitstand high temperatures. But this thing sure has a lot of power
                It's better to wear off by working than to rust by doing nothing.

                Comment


                • Instead of having a water dripper used for the steam, couldn't we build the roller with paths for direct water circulation and then use a rotating joint to deliver/retrieve water to/from the roller? This would have the effect of capturing the heat being created in the roller while simultaneously keeping the roller and bearings from overheating. Being that there would be no air gaps to lose heat or steam pressure, wouldn't we be able to make it more efficient?

                  Comment


                  • Jetijs
                    Real cool turbine!! I'm not sure of your shaft diameter but you might find suitable washer spacers at a well supplied plumbing store. They have alot of precise brass washers used in valves. Hope this helps.
                    gene gene

                    Comment


                    • Hi gene gene
                      I solved the spacer problem with rubber washers. They compress evenly and I got a nice even spacing
                      I just installed a pressure regulator and ran the turbine on about 30 PSI. It gets up to max speed in about 5 seconds and my laser tachometer shows 32000RPM, but since I have 3 spokes on my blades, we need to divide tat number by 3 and we got about 10k RPM. At those speeds the turbine starts to vibrate a bit and gets so loud that I am afraid to go up in pressure. If I want to go higher, I need someone to hold the turbine down for me This time I used a simple 1/4" fitting to deliver the compressed air to the blades. I just held the fittig in the air inlet opening. This is still not as good as it can get, but already now it is a great improvement, because it gets up to speed in just several seconds compared to about a minute as in my video
                      It's better to wear off by working than to rust by doing nothing.

                      Comment


                      • Jetijs...
                        Looks like you got it pretty close.. to right. Tesla would be proud.. Thanks for building it at this time in the thread.. very opportune timing.. It looked like it wasn't to easy to slow down. Do you have a small generator or motor you can connect to it to see how it handles a load.. You could always build a case out of aluminum plates like you did the acrylic..
                        very nicely done.. I gotta buld one of these..!

                        Paul
                        Last edited by rileydad48; 02-10-2009, 02:36 AM. Reason: spelling

                        Comment


                        • Reply to Jetijs

                          Originally posted by Jetijs View Post
                          I just installed a pressure regulator and ran the turbine on about 30 PSI. It gets up to max speed in about 5 seconds and my laser tachometer shows 32000RPM, but since I have 3 spokes on my blades, we need to divide tat number by 3 and we got about 10k RPM. At those speeds the turbine starts to vibrate a bit and gets so loud that I am afraid to go up in pressure. If I want to go higher, I need someone to hold the turbine down for me This time I used a simple 1/4" fitting to deliver the compressed air to the blades. I just held the fittig in the air inlet opening. This is still not as good as it can get, but already now it is a great improvement, because it gets up to speed in just several seconds compared to about a minute as in my video
                          I'm loving it, Jetijs

                          For the tachometer test, did you place a reflective strip on all three spokes?

                          Just think what this might do if you could eliminate the slight out-of-balance vibration! I'm wondering about a few things that could affect balance:
                          • Are the shaft mounting holes, at the disc centers, precisely the size of the shaft diameter, or is there possibly enough clearance to allow them to move about ever so slightly?
                          • To maintain alignment of the exhaust holes of the entire disc pac, and prevent possibility of any discs turning on the shaft, did you use a keyed shaft with rectangular slots cut into the discs? Of course a key on only one side of the shaft will introduce a slight off-balance effect in and of itself, so a shaft with two keyways opposite each other would be preffered. The TEBA disc shows a three-key design, with the keys placed at the center of the three spokes. See that arrangement here: http://www.teslaengine.org/images/tesla2.jpg
                          • After assembling and tightening the disc rotor assembly, before your latest test, did you place it in a lathe and test for runout with a dial gauge at each disc? The actual runout appears to me to be very slight, but of course any amount of runout whatsoever will begin to set up vibrations that will become apparent at medium rotational speeds, and become greatly magnified at high revs, since the effect is nonlinear. It might be very helpful if you could place the disc assembly in a lathe and make a very light pass across the disc edges using a grinder to true the rotor face. Even .001" of runout is going to set up vibration at the high revs that your turbine is capable of.
                          • With all the above vibrational factors eliminated, a final balancing may best be accomplished using an external flywheel (or flywheel at each end of shaft) for static and dynamic balancing, with static done first, and dynamic as final balance method if necessary. A flywheel makes this easy, since small holes can be drilled into the flyweel to remove just enough material to achieve balance. You are probably already well aware of static and dynamic balancing methods, but if you would like any suggestions related to that, then just ask.
                          I notice that you built the enclosure end plates with Tesla Turbine style exhaust ports, while the discs were intended for a Tesla pump. While this mismatch may have a negative impact on efficency of the exhaust stream, your turbine is still doing quite well, and your early testing with this simplified setup should be quite encouraging to our readers. I am definitely all smiles here!

                          Rick
                          "Seek wisdom by keeping an open mind to alternative realities, questioning authority, and searching for truth. Only then, when you see or hear something that has 'the ring of truth' to it, will it be as if a veil has been lifted, and suddenly you will begin to hear and see far more clearly than ever before." - Rickoff

                          Comment


                          • New message from Lloyd Tanner - Feb 7, 2009

                            Hi folks,

                            Here's the latest response from Lloyd Tanner, in answer to my questions regarding drive horsepower and actual torque required to move the friction roller shaft. Lloyd says that the 5" rotor prototype required 1/2 horsepower for operation (he ended up using a 1 hp motor to keep it cool, of course), which is just what I figured the actual requirement to be. So with 7 pairs of wood blocks, that would be no more than 3.5 hp, and possibly less. The torque wrench test shows that it takes just 8 ft/lbs of force to rotate the 10" friction roller shaft with 14 pieces of wood loaded and weighted. That's amazing, when you consider that there is 140 pounds of frictional force placed against the roller! Looking pretty good, isn't it?

                            Lloyd didn't explain how he is using the energy cells (battery power), but it appears likely that his idea is to perhaps utilize the stored power to operate the start-up drive motor. He also has a propane burner to use for start-ups.
                            ----------------------------------------------------------------------

                            From: LKTanner
                            Sent:Sat 2/07/09 8:50 PM

                            Hi Rick,

                            I used electric to drive the [10"] friction roller, and the original 5" rotor. It took 1/2 horsepower to turn a 5" roller with 2 wood pieces.

                            With 14 pieces of oak against my 10" diameter friction roller, according to my torque wrench, it creates 8 ft/lbs of friction drag. Therefore, it takes 8 ft/lbs of torque before the friction roller starts to turn.

                            You know by now that there are a lot of ways to design this but what I am trying to do is use the exhaust from my steam engine to heat the house, and the generator just big enough to keep the energy cells charges. I am not trying to turn a generator big enough to run a house - just one big enough to run 24 hours a day and keep the energy cells charged.

                            Regarding the proposal to halt and then resume friction production, thank you for your ideas - I always appreciate your input!!! The water tube idea is a really good one and I'll check it out.

                            Take care!

                            Lloyd L. Tanner
                            Last edited by rickoff; 02-08-2009, 07:41 AM.
                            "Seek wisdom by keeping an open mind to alternative realities, questioning authority, and searching for truth. Only then, when you see or hear something that has 'the ring of truth' to it, will it be as if a veil has been lifted, and suddenly you will begin to hear and see far more clearly than ever before." - Rickoff

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by rickoff View Post
                              I'm loving it, Jetijs

                              For the tachometer test, did you place a reflective strip on all three spokes?

                              Just think what this might do if you could eliminate the slight out-of-balance vibration! I'm wondering about a few things that could affect balance:
                              • Are the shaft mounting holes, at the disc centers, precisely the size of the shaft diameter, or is there possibly enough clearance to allow them to move about ever so slightly?
                              • To maintain alignment of the exhaust holes of the entire disc pac, and prevent possibility of any discs turning on the shaft, did you use a keyed shaft with rectangular slots cut into the discs? Of course a key on only one side of the shaft will introduce a slight off-balance effect in and of itself, so a shaft with two keyways opposite each other would be preffered. The TEBA disc shows a three-key design, with the keys placed at the center of the three spokes. See that arrangement here: http://www.teslaengine.org/images/tesla2.jpg
                              • After assembling and tightening the disc rotor assembly, before your latest test, did you place it in a lathe and test for runout with a dial gauge at each disc? The actual runout appears to me to be very slight, but of course any amount of runout whatsoever will begin to set up vibrations that will become apparent at medium rotational speeds, and become greatly magnified at high revs, since the effect is nonlinear. It might be very helpful if you could place the disc assembly in a lathe and make a very light pass across the disc edges using a grinder to true the rotor face. Even .001" of runout is going to set up vibration at the high revs that your turbine is capable of.
                              • With all the above vibrational factors eliminated, a final balancing may best be accomplished using an external flywheel (or flywheel at each end of shaft) for static and dynamic balancing, with static done first, and dynamic as final balance method if necessary. A flywheel makes this easy, since small holes can be drilled into the flyweel to remove just enough material to achieve balance. You are probably already well aware of static and dynamic balancing methods, but if you would like any suggestions related to that, then just ask.
                              I notice that you built the enclosure end plates with Tesla Turbine style exhaust ports, while the discs were intended for a Tesla pump. While this mismatch may have a negative impact on efficency of the exhaust stream, your turbine is still doing quite well, and your early testing with this simplified setup should be quite encouraging to our readers. I am definitely all smiles here!

                              Rick
                              Hi Rick
                              My tachometer works also without a reflective tape, it just detects when the laser beam goes right through the turbine and when it is hindered by the spokes. Also the spokes are rather shiny already by themselves. So far looks like it is showing the RPM's correctly. I think that I also found the cause for the vibration, although the blade spacing seems to be equal, but when I put the rotor into the casing, I can see through the air inlet port that the blades on the threaded end (my shaft has thread only on one side, the other side has a flat area for the blades to sit on) are a bit off. This creates a wobble effect on high revs. So I guess that I will have to get me some precise steel washers to solve this. The centerhole of the blades is just big enough to fit thightly on the shaft so no major offcentres there. So I will solve the spacer problem first and then we will see. I will also make a new video with all the info about RPM's and pressure.
                              Thanks,
                              Jetijs.

                              Edit: here is the new video:
                              YouTube - Tesla turbine. Test 2
                              Last edited by Jetijs; 02-08-2009, 01:42 PM.
                              It's better to wear off by working than to rust by doing nothing.

                              Comment


                              • Hi Jetijs, From my drag racing days I know that after final assembly checking for crankshaft run out (end to end) to .001" or less was crucial for durability of high reving engines.
                                Thanks to Paul (Rileydad 48) I found MSpaint & now have a few drawings of some ideas relating to Lloyds heater, that I would like share, but I don't know how to post them. I now have them saved in a folder, after loosing some by pushing the wrong button or something. Very sad.
                                Your large pics in post #274 are awesome!!!
                                I'm looking forward to seeing that screamming little turbine of your's doing some work. How about using the exhaust to load a vortex tube and spot cooling the upper bearing on a Lloyds heater?
                                good luck,
                                gene gene

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X