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Regarding The Ed Gray Motor

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  • #31
    In my opinion,

    I feel that the proposed explanation of this device, here, does not do full justice to how this device operates. Those copper grids capture something entirely different to RFI, simply radiant energy.

    Learning from Tesla's early work we can see that it originated from some of his first experiments and discoveries.

    Read this book, it will offer some great understanding towards the actual principles of the device.

    Free Energy Secrets with Tesla patents

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    • #32
      Edwin Gray left us some tips which are very important.
      "Recreating the lightning"
      "Splitting the positive"

      Even if we assume that he might not be the inventor of this switching element tube those statements are crucial to understanding this device.
      Even the patent title tell us something.

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      • #33
        Single Wire LED

        Originally posted by Beshires1 View Post
        Ok after studying Ed Grey's Power Conversion Tube Patent, and Jerry Vollands patent Selective frequency optical generator - Google Patents
        and also a patent of Pavel Imris. OPTICAL GENERATOR OF AN ELECTROSTATIC - Google Patents
        I noticed how each resembled the leyden jar in construction. So I constructed a leyden jar out of a plastic container. punched a hole thru the bottom for the high voltage discharge of the ignition coil. glued another electrode into the cap of container, so that when the containers top is snapped back on the electrodes are seperated by about 1". I placed a copper tube inside the container that does not touch either electrode, but allows the spark to jump between the electrodes inside the copper sleeve. I connected No wire to the inside copper tube. The outside of the plastic container is wrapped with aluminum foil and has a wire attached to the aluminum foil only.I fired up the ignition coil and attached a 12v DC led to the wire attached to the aluminun foil and the led lit up without the other side of the wire being attached to anything. then I attached a small neon lamp bulb to the LEDs non connected wire and It lit up without the other end of its wire being connected to anything. Picture a single wire off the modified leyden jar having two different current AC plus a DC bulb lighting and the wire doesn't go on to a ground. Can anyone explain this? ImageShack - Hosting :: 1000316pj1.jpg
        Beshires1,

        This is about the quickest, easiest Tube replication I've seen. Way to go! Using this kind of assembly technique, it'll be easy for you to test different configurations.

        With your LED being lit by one wire, there's some little uncertainty about the effect, since the LED is touching the carpet. When dealing with High Voltage, just about anything can act as a virtual ground. However, you may have something substantial, so I'd say your effect warrants further experimentation.

        The first thing you need to do is get the LED away from any surfaces, even your hand. You might think about suspending it in the air by tying a string to the input wire. Or put it all on a table and hang the LED off over the edge. Then, if it still lights up, you likely have a single wire conduction situation in which surges of Radiant Energy are flowing along the wire, whether the other end is connected to something or not.

        Keep us posted.

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        • #34
          Electrotec
          This is about the quickest, easiest Tube replication I've seen. Way to go! Using this kind of assembly technique, it'll be easy for you to test different configurations.

          With your LED being lit by one wire, there's some little uncertainty about the effect, since the LED is touching the carpet. When dealing with High Voltage, just about anything can act as a virtual ground. However, you may have something substantial, so I'd say your effect warrants further experimentation.

          The first thing you need to do is get the LED away from any surfaces, even your hand. You might think about suspending it in the air by tying a string to the input wire. Or put it all on a table and hang the LED off over the edge. Then, if it still lights up, you likely have a single wire conduction situation in which surges of Radiant Energy are flowing along the wire, whether the other end is connected to something or not.

          Keep us posted.
          Here is a little more I can Offer on the Leyden Jar tube thingy. I Have suspended the neon bulb the other end not touching anything. It lit up. Toucking the loose wire made the neon bulb brighter and it also made a hissing sound, Then it shocked the @#$#@^%&&^%$# out of me. I recon the high voltage spark found ground and jumped thru the plastic container walls to light me up. Excellent!

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          • #35
            Sorry you got shocked; it's not really funny.

            Something you can do to try to brighten the light is attach the second, output wire to a square piece of aluminum foil. This unipolar capacitance will provide a stronger virtual ground, as well as a reverse signal which is out of phase with the energy coming from the Tube. The bidirectional phases produce something called Field Energy, which has interesting effects of its own. The capacitance of this virtual ground can be more than doubled by placing the foil inside a Crystal Clear Sheet Protector, from the office supply store. This crystal clear plastic, including the shipping tape version, is polypropylene, which is the best hV insulator around.

            It's not known whether your Tube replica itself is producing Field Energy at this time, since there's only one voltage source going into it. You have the transformer's output, but no parallel cap. After observing the effect of the foil extension, you can easily reconfigure your Tube to test for this type of energy in its output. For instance, cut out a narrow strip of foil all the way down on one side, along the length of your Tube. With this gap, and the LED's single wire connected to the foil directly on the other side of the Tube, you can test for the same effect you're getting now. Then connect the LED across this gap using both wires, one to each side of the gap in the outer foil electrode.

            If the LED lights up and doesn't burn out, your Tube is producing Radiant Energy, a type of electrostatic vibration which doesn't have a magnetic component. If this is the case, try one more thing: connect the point of a narrow triangle made out of foil to a wire going to the outer grid on your Tube, opposite the gap. Then, with the Field Energy present, the LED will light up when one of its wires is connected to the triangle's point and the other is connected to the side of the triangle, more than half way up.

            And Be Careful!! Even Field Energy can get you, if it's the wrong kind.

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            • #36
              Beshires1,

              It looks like your basic motor circuit is workable. The distributor will synchronize the application of the energy to the motor coils at the proper time. Here's a picture of an Interrupter I built. This could be mounted on the main motor's shaft, rather than my small hair drier motor. A distributor cap can be used, with a few kV, but it won't work with ignition coil voltages. When the voltage is that high, there's an ionising effect inside the cap and the cap acts like a capacitor, slowly building up charge. It only puts out a spark every few rotations, and the spark is capacitive, rather than inductance. The Gray motors usually used around 3kV. At this voltage, the distributor cap works with each rotation, putting out an inductive spark. However, I'd say try the distributor cap anyway, with your Tube, just to see what it'll do with Radiant Energy.


              Jerry's Site - Spark Interrupter

              Here's an armature made with a foil pattern. The patent shows two layers, but a single layer could be used, for tests. Both brushes would be on the same end, side by side. This kind of test motor would be fairly easy to make, using PVC tubes. The stator coils would be a similar pattern, rotated 180 degrees, and would be in series with the brushes. If aluminum foil is used, the commutator could be made from conductive epoxy - just mix a lot of graphite in with the epoxy. I think toner cartrige powder is also conductive. This armature is designed for high power pulses. For instance, Aaron's Water Sparkplug circuit would be ideal. If using that circuit, the Interrupter would be connected to your Tube's central electrode, and the motor would connect directly to the grid. I think he's really got Something!


              Jerry's Site - Pulse Power Armature (EV Gray)

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              • #37
                Electrotek,
                Excellent . Great idea, I am using a vibrator motor from My Son's old Game controller. When the motor spins it cam actuates a lever micro switch to make and break contact.(Great Coil Driver). The interrupter basically does the job that a automobiles contact breaker points do. It causes the ignition coil to fire when the selector under the distributor cap is aligned with a firing point to a coil. Good Job! Keep up the good work!

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                • #38
                  Originally posted by john_g View Post
                  Hi

                  Thought I would post a pic of my tube so far. Construction: enclosure an old aquarium cleaner outer casing. Anode and cathode copper tube (from old immersion heater temp probe tube) , carbon anode plug (from old 1.5V battery) and tips made of silver sheet. Main tubes copper about 28mm and 48mm dia (Old heating pipes) both pipes drilled and soldered on to each tube is a red wire.

                  Still trying to sort out caps and load for the rest of the circuit.

                  However had to have a play, and attached in various configurations output from my Model T coil to the anode and cathode just to see what happens. Energy comes from the red wires which will light a neon, gets very bright if other side connected to "real" earth (rod into earth). Intresting that the neon will light up on single wire about 3 feet away. I managed to zap myself and dropped the neon attached to a wire to the floor where it was glowing quite bright which struck me as odd, then I noticed it was besides the battery, and it appeared that when drawing the neon across the battery casing, the neon would increase in brightness as it passed each cell. Also the neon seemed to get cold, but the weather is cold, my garage has more holes that roof - I will get an IR themometer to asertain. Also the neon made a fizzing sound - most odd.

                  I will keep you posted.

                  Regards
                  Hi John,

                  Nice Tube! The proportions look about right. Since the area of a cylinder equals the length time pi*D, if you make it twice as long, it will still pick up the same amount of energy if it's half the diameter. However, if you try to use this with a motor, your coils will have to be fairly small. Ed Gray always used a CSET diameter which was larger than the size of his bobbin coils. This was also true with his Teflon Motor shown in message #2 of this thread. The long narrow coils still had the small radius on the ends. This kind of Radiant Energy is negative, and it flows from a larger diameter conductive surface to a smaller one.

                  And, of course, the grids don't have to be small. A short, fat Tube could also be made which has grids which are 20" in diameter, for instance, for use with normal size motor coils.
                  Last edited by Electrotek; 12-19-2008, 12:37 PM.

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                  • #39
                    Here is a tip I learned on making tube Electrodes, It may help out someone somewhere. I used Heavy gauge, single strand copper wire, 10 gauge, then heated the end with a large solder iron, I coated the heated end with ..solder.The Silver tips are only to keep you from producing a green flame arc from the copper.

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                    • #40
                      I'll try that. I've also heard that you can coat copper with silver using silver nitrate and aspirin. But solder is something I have.

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                      • #41
                        Something about the rotor coil configuration in the photos (first post in this thread)has been tormenting me for quite some time. I have now come to the conclusion that the rotor coils are wired with one leg of each coil tied together as in a single phase Y configuration, and the other leg of each coil goes to a brush or wiper. If I see it correctly then this rotor is wired up like a brushless motor (contrary to my previous statement) but transfers the pulses to the rotor coils via the Brushes or wiper. That would make the distributor like commutator actually a mechanical DC brushless controller. See this video:
                        YouTube - Brushless motor winding by Utah Fyers #2
                        I'm not up to date with the brushless motors or how the controller works. But I know that this difference could shed some light on the operation of the Grey Tubes actual function. And quite possibly the reason Grey had no noticeable means to ground the coils. Commone guys! I need some help on this one.

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                        • #42
                          This is a very interesting motor. I can see why you're puzzled.

                          This was Ed Gray's last, and best motor. It reportedly put out 2,000 Hp at 10,000 RPM. I'm still wondering why he used plastic plugs on his motors. With this one, he's got teflon on both sides of the armature coils. What looks like tie wire straps are actually L antennas, with the bottom of the L's pointing to the left. This definately appears to be Scalar Technique.

                          It looks to me like one wire from each coil - at the top - goes to the brushes. These brushes appear to all be electrically connected, so perhaps this is the ground point? If so, then where are the coil inputs?

                          I'm going to study this for awhile, and check back later.

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                          • #43
                            Old Today, 10:30 PM
                            Beshires1's Avatar
                            Beshires1 Beshires1 is online now
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                            Join Date: Sep 2008
                            Posts: 58
                            Quote:
                            Originally Posted by nat1971a View Post
                            @beshires1

                            item 42 does seem odd.....he draws it with a circle around it....which is odd...in my book.......he draws the multivibrator and the commutator with a circle around it too....yet he quite clearly states in the patent text that it is a spark gap.....

                            seems odd to draw a spark gap with circles around it.....it seems to imply that all the switching devices are circled....
                            I think his general idea implies that the high voltage potential is sitting like a common source and the spark would jump the gap in item 42, selecting either the tube or the inductive load. The timing, and the selection is made by the proper aligning contact in the commutator.
                            Attachment 1743
                            I Think the 3 groups of contacts spaced 120 degrees were used to signal the firing to the rotor-stator coils. The intermediate contacts that are spaced 40 degrees were used to signal a firing through the conversion tube.It was noted by John Wooten
                            gray-tube-replication-wooten.jpg
                            that not all of the intermediate contacts were used.
                            Bedini states that the motor would run without the conversion tube, I tend to agree. After multiple setups, trying different combinations of things to get the inductive load to function thru the wire off the grids I met failure everytime. I now believe the conversion tubes function was as merely a battery charging device.
                            __________________
                            ""I've done so much for so long with so little I'm now capable of doing practically anything with nothing."

                            DIY DC Motor ‎(DIY DC Motor‎)
                            Last edited by Beshires1 : Today at 10:58 PM.
                            Last edited by Beshires1; 12-27-2008, 05:08 AM.

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                            • #44
                              Here is a diagram of my testing setup.
                              Last edited by Beshires1; 01-14-2009, 04:44 PM.

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                              • #45
                                Speaking of the circle around Item 42, there may be more to it than just indicating that it's a spark gap component enclosed in some type of tube. The Investor photo in Mark McKay's files shows a battery charger circuit with some coils around a plastic pipe, with a blueish light inside the pipe.

                                One of my experiments with the puff spark was to enclose it in a tube which was smaller than the size of the puff. When compressed like this, the large spark turned dark blue. And it was still completely opaque.

                                Maybe the circle represents the plastic pipe?

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