Gray Tube Replication

[Aaron]

motor

Aaron,
You are correct I've got an idea on power supply from Aromaz. But unfortunately I couldn't make it work with 2n2222 (you need specific version of them), and it will not work in my schema (I tried). So I came up with my own feedback idea. It works every time and it's easy to setup and you can use any PNP transistor.
Did you try your schema in any kind of motor?
What is your power supply? (If you can show your schema complete with power supply and parts used it would be nice)

Hi Mike,

I need some real magnets before applying it to a motor. I'll probably use my bicycle wheel and put magnets every 90 degrees for starters just to make it run. I find the 2n2222's a little tricky to get to work as well. I didn't try using a winding around the coil body to trigger it yet so that may help.

I'm very interested in getting the effect at high frequency and not necessarily to run a motor.

When I used one of the recovery windings on the trifilar when it was setup as a pendulum...one single pulse recovered 175 volts in the 4000v/u2f cap...not much but there is no doubt with everything matched up and tuned you can get quite a bit back.

[mlurye]

I just did one interesting experiment with my schema. I replaced driving cap 0.8uF with 56nF cap. And to my surprise it worked I can see that speed a little bit slower but power consumption is down.

P.S. Adjusted triggering point and got my speed back with low power consumption.

[nat1971a]

i tried the 2n2222's (the aromaz circuit again and they were the correct 2n2222's) and couldnt get it to work either ...lights up cfl's ok as a test....mind you i am no guru with this stuff....so i might try the pnp next....

[mlurye]

Drove my schema 10 min nonstop. 2n3055 not even worming up. Before it was getting hot in 30 sec.

[nat1971a]

i could hear the ignition coil bubbling yesterday when i was trying out the circuit....had to turn it off in a hurry

[mlurye]

nat don't power it up with more than 12V to begin with. Increase power later as needed.
Other things to consider when tuning up the system:
Materials of spark gap (My is aluminum nails inside of pan body)
Size of spark gap (It should be as small as possible, but don't short circuit it)
Size of caps (played with them until desired speed or tork achieved, my for now is 2.35nF and 70.5nF)

[nat1971a]

ok will do

[mlurye]

Just tuned schema a little bit. It looks like disk is spinning at 1500-2000 rpm.
Kill-A-Watt died The only way now I can consider power consumption by checking 2n3055 temperature and it is not heating up.

New movie with my setup uploaded if anybody is interested http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QqMf9DC6D-w

[nat1971a]

thanks for the video

[Spokane1]

Getting the front end oscillator to work

Just tuned schema a little bit. It looks like disk is spinning at 1500-2000 rpm.
Kill-A-Watt died The only way now I can consider power consumption by checking 2n3055 temperature and it is not heating up.

Dear Mike,

I'm having challenges with the excitation darlington pair. I have a bunch of 2N2907's which have very similuar specs to the 2N3906 model (VCE -60V, hfe 100-300 Ic = 200 mA) you are using. However I've blown about 5 of them. (I've got 200 left) I get one spark from the output and then nothing. The 2N3055 seems to survive this assult. I attempted to reduce the loop gain by adding a current limiting resistor to the base of the 2N3055. I started with 30 Ohms and kept reducing it until the signal transistor pop again. I never could find a "sweet spot" where a continuous arc would form with this approach.

My pick up coil is 12 turns of #20 stranded wire wound in a tight coil towards the top of the ignition coil. I think the ignition coil is a 1:100 but it might be a little hotter than that since it is advertised as being "Hot". I'm using a 25 Ahr lawn tractor battery - 12V for the power source.

Any ideas from your background and experiance with this circuit?

Mark McKay

[mlurye]

Mark,
Could you draw or make a picture of your coil connections?

[Spokane1]

Diode Specs for Green Arc Circuit

Dear Aaron,

I want to build your Green Arc circuit, since I probably have all the components on my bench, but I would like to get some idea of the proper component values.

I am leary of connecting diodes to the HI side of an ignition coil since I have added so many of them my to "Hall of Flame" collection in that mannor. What are your proposed diode ratings for the three diodes you have showing?

Also about how large should I make that inductor?

You show a mechanical contact driving the primary of the ignition coil. How fast should that be buzzing? any idea as to a good working duty factor for the "ON" state. I can use a self stepping Imhotep relay, but that limits the coil current to about 2.6A and runs at 125 Hz. But I think mechanical contacts might be where its at in the long run. Once we know how to tune them.

Also, I'm not sure where the power is suppose to be applied. Across the primary tank capacitor? I assume 12V is fine to start with.

Between your circuit and Mike's circuit I should be busy for a few weeks.

I notice your interest in water arcs. Have you seen the article in Electric Space Craft Journal about 4 years ago? A fine piece of garage research. Be glad to send you a .jpg copy.

Mark McKay

[Spokane1]

Coil Driver problems

Mark,
Could you draw or make a picture of your coil connections?

Dear Mike,

I shall photograph it this evening and send it tomorrow. Perhaps you might see some other errors as well.

Mark McKay

[mlurye]

Mark,
Here is test I want you to try. Make sure that NOTHING is connected to the HV output of Ignition coil. (Just to be clear: Wire around the coil should be connected to the base of PNP, other end not connected to anything) And try to start oscillator, if everything is OK you should hear buzzing sound. If oscillations do not start you could quickly tap base of 2n3055 with 12V.
Also I don’t know what so special about 2n2907 but try to replace them with TIP41 or equivalent transistor.

[What The Flux]

Aaron's circuit

@Aaron,
Forgive me if I'm being dense, and I've been trying to follow this thread closely, but I think I might be missing something.

On your circuit above, doesn't the cap on the left just constantly discharge through the coil? Didn't you mean to have the anode of the first diode connected to the other side of the switch (similar to water spark plug)?

If not, how does the cap maintain enough charge to trigger the coil primary?

WTF