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  • Diodes and Caps

    Hi everyone! I'm Ghst and this is my first post. I've been monitoring this thread for a long time and I feel that I already know most of you here. A word about diodes and Caps: The high voltage will destroy them rendering a 4007 diode useless, They will become like a piece of wire conducting both ways. Keep a check on them if you suddenly get unexpected results. The same is true for Caps. they will burn internally and not charge. I have 400V 50 amp Full wave bridge rectifiers, destroyed from the output from a ignition coil. They will look fine but are not doing the jobs which they are required.You must have High voltage diodes and Caps that will handle these high voltages. My "tube" experiments have been delayed until I get some high voltage diodes from e-bay.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mfjs6gM8M6Q
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wNQvf...eature=related

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    • Originally posted by Electrotek View Post
      Horbour Freight sells a little bug zapper paddle for around $3, when it's on sale. These make a respectable spark at 1500V. So I got two of them, and disassembled them, so that I had just the output wires.

      For my test, I charged both units, then turned the power off. I was able to get a small Puff Spark effect (plasma spark) by discharging both units across the same spark gap, with one unit in series with an inductor.

      It seems to me that the plasma spark effect is caused by combining two discharges which have different time constants. This works if one spark is from a coil and the other is from a capacitor, or if both sparks are from capacitors.
      ... or how about 2 different size coils like the Gray motor.

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      • Gray motor it is OU? or simply a toy?

        Comment


        • Originally posted by martin View Post
          Excellent test! So basically you'd have 2 seperate spark gaps? Has anyone tried this?
          As I understand it, that's what Beshires1 did, over on the Gray Motor thread, when he got his First Radiant Event. He had two ignition coils, one of which charged the cap and was disconnected afterwards. The other coil powered his CSET. He had two spark gaps, one from the cap and one to trigger the coil. This produced a small plasma spark within the CSET, popping his coil.

          Also, on the Water Sparkplug thread, Aaron said that circuit will work if a spark gap is substituted for the diode. In this case, the switch would be equivalent to a second spark gap. At least, that's how I understand it. I'm planning to experiment with that circuit. I do have an extra ignition coil, and it would be better if I can duplicate all of my effects without using a HV cap.

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          • Circuit Repost

            Here's the circuit. It doesn't say copywrite, so I should be able to repost it alright. Just place a spark gap where it shows the diode, and see what happens.
            Attached Files
            Last edited by Electrotek; 03-09-2009, 06:19 PM. Reason: spelling: "it" not "is"

            Comment


            • Originally posted by martin View Post
              ... or how about 2 different size coils like the Gray motor.
              Two different size coils, each with its own cap, would work. But if both coils are in series, with the same cap, it wouldn't make any difference.

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              • OU?

                Originally posted by darkwizard View Post
                Gray motor it is OU? or simply a toy?
                The first motor, which looks like a toy, was OU. It produced 10HP with 27W. input. The full size motor shown in the first patent was also OU. Some later motors weren't.

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                • Originally posted by Electrotek View Post
                  As I understand it, that's what Beshires1 did, over on the Gray Motor thread, when he got his First Radiant Event. He had two ignition coils, one of which charged the cap and was disconnected afterwards. The other coil powered his CSET. He had two spark gaps, one from the cap and one to trigger the coil. This produced a small plasma spark within the CSET, popping his coil.

                  Also, on the Water Sparkplug thread, Aaron said that circuit will work if a spark gap is substituted for the diode. In this case, the switch would be equivalent to a second spark gap. At least, that's how I understand it. I'm planning to experiment with that circuit. I do have an extra ignition coil, and it would be better if I can duplicate all of my effects without using a HV cap.
                  Well, here's another observation, in this pic you see 2 leads comming from what is thought to be the FFF. One going to a seperate black box. These two boxes could be two seperate power supplies like in the patent.
                  Attached Files

                  Comment


                  • Martin: I think this is the source of the OU. In the patent, Fig. 1 shows two different frequencies, at 21a and 22a. The pulse widths are deffinately different. These two frequencies, in the coil, may be producing a TPU effect, coherring the active vacuum, resonating the ZPE, whatever. Or maybe it's the interaction of these frequencies with the internal spark?

                    But I see THREE wires coming off the coils in the picture. As well as a smaller Black Box behind the coils. Figuring out how to wire these coils will be the trick. For instance, are they bifilar? If so, how about the red wire coil in the picture of the Black Box guts?

                    edit: Here's another observation: the ends of these wires do not look like coax. And the wires on the coil appear to have normal AWG markings.
                    Last edited by Electrotek; 03-09-2009, 07:22 PM.

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by Electrotek View Post
                      Martin: I think this is the source of the OU. In the patent, Fig. 1 shows two different frequencies, at 21a and 22a. The pulse widths are deffinately different. These two frequencies, in the coil, may be producing a TPU effect, coherring the active vacuum, resonating the ZPE, whatever. Or maybe it's the interaction of these frequencies with the internal spark?

                      But I see THREE wires coming off the coils in the picture. As well as a smaller Black Box behind the coils. Figuring out how to wire these coils will be the trick. For instance, are they bifilar? If so, how about the red wire coil in the picture of the Black Box guts?

                      edit: Here's another observation: the ends of these wires do not look like coax. And the wires on the coil appear to have normal AWG markings.
                      Check this out, looks like that 3rd wire goes to one of those circular loops we were talking about the other day.
                      Attached Files

                      Comment


                      • diode and gap

                        @Electrotek, the diode should definitely shut off with HV going through it in reverse. If it doesn't the diode may be fried. I use 6A100 (6A, 1000v) diodes ...in single or in string and never had a problem. I also use some 15kv 300ma microwave diodes. Your ignition coil may be putting out a negative spike - some put out positive - and if negative you can invert all the diodes...but please check out the water spark plug thread for the vexus circuit...many people are using the inverted diode because of this - I've never had to do that myself.

                        Capacitor70 - I just remembered, it was him that showed the water sparkplug circuit on his motorcycle engine that showed promise running on water...she showed the LV caps discharge with gap and not a diode. His vids are around here somewhere...his schematics are on overunity.com and probably in the water sparkplug thread as well.

                        On the schematic, I don't mind if any are posted around the net ... I just like people to know it(they) came from EnergeticForum.com. That is a very safe way to do the cap dump to the ignition coil...total isolation. You can trigger the relay with 555 or however else you want to do it.
                        Sincerely,
                        Aaron Murakami

                        Books & Videos https://emediapress.com
                        Conference http://energyscienceconference.com
                        RPX & MWO http://vril.io

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                        • That loop in the background looks like a smaller gauge wire. It's still a mystery though. I wonder how it fits into the circuit.

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by Electrotek View Post
                            That loop in the background looks like a smaller gauge wire. It's still a mystery though. I wonder how it fits into the circuit.
                            If you look REAL close, you'll see the black wire at the base of the loop. Look in the pic without the green arrow.

                            Comment


                            • Originally posted by Electrotek View Post
                              That loop in the background looks like a smaller gauge wire. It's still a mystery though. I wonder how it fits into the circuit.
                              Ok, the green arrows are a set of scissors. The pink arrow is the actual loop wire. The blue is the wire from the coil. The orange looks like where the loop and the coil wire are connected and taped together.
                              Attached Files

                              Comment


                              • New Diode Test

                                Aaron and Ghst: The diode isn't fried. I tested it with my meter and it still conducts LV current one way but not the other. I also hooked my light up to the batteries, and it comes on with the diode's anode connected to the +, but not when I connect the anode to the batteries' -.

                                I really NEED to be able to turn a diode off. It would open a lot of doors. So, just to be sure it wasn't a HV polarity issue, I set up a new test. This time, I turned the ignition coil's intensity down so that it only makes a 5/16" spark - to be on the safe side. I only have 9 MO diodes and I don't want to fry any of them. Then I put another MO diode back to back with the first one, to make sure the HV had a reverse bias. It still didn't turn the light off.

                                I tried something like this when I was a kid, trying to make a transistor out of two diodes, but it didn't work. It has to be a single crystal. So, I still can't turn a diode off, even with HV reverse bias. And if this did turn the diode off, Gray's battery wouldn't supply any current, regardless of diode polarity.

                                Something besides the diode is causing the plasma spark effect.

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