Gray Tube Replication

[martin]

I didn't hear of it; I just said that's what I think. This was based on the fact that some appliances, such as TV's, require a specific supply voltage for the circuits and components to operate correctly. Or at all.

I understand. Now that you mention it he may have been referring to the high internal working voltage and stepping it down to 120v. That would make sense.

[martin]

Hey, this coil sure does resemble what's inbetween the battery and black box. This is a vintage Mallory 501 coil.

[martin]

Motor CSET

Electrotek, This may be what he's talking about.

[Electrotek]

Electrotek, This may be what he's talking about.

Isn't that the commutator? And you may be right about the ignition coil.

[Ghst]

Tonight I tried something different. I attached my grid wire to one wire of a load coil then attached the other wire of the load coil to one post of a canister microwave oven capacitor (1750 VAC 1.6 uf). On the other post of the capacitor, I attached a microwave oven diode pointing away from the capacitor, and wired the diode to the 12V positive post on my ignition coil. With the low voltage disconnected from the the CSET, I could charge the microwaveoven cap, at least I got a meter reading of 768V DC. I could not discharge the cap into the CSET. But I could touch a 12V dc jumper wire to the coil and Cset connection and get a weak but green puff or silent spark at that connection. I could also get a more powerful green discharge touching the connection between the capacitor and the coil. very bright but about marble sized and with a audible "POP". But I cannot get this effect to happen inside my CSET. Might be because I have no copper inside my CSET at all. the grids are a expanded metal mesh I have two grids one a tube about the size of a dime. the other is about one and a half inches in diameter. And the electrodes are square steel with a gold plating . 1/8 inches by about 8 inches long. It could be that the discharge is happening inside the CSET but if it is, its Bright blue or white. That gold plated electrode just does some allsome sparking and flashing!

Here is a link to the Motor CSET photo.
http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/391/gray002copy.jpg

[martin]

Electrotek, yes, according to the patent but that is the only thing that I know of that would bear any resemblance of a cset on the motor. Do you know of anything else that might be a cset that he could be referring to?

Ghst, your experiment sounds promising. How fast did the capacitor charge? Can you post a schematic so we can see exactly what's going on? Good job!

[Aaron]

schematic and metals

Hi Ghst,

I'd also love to see your schematic...I see what you're saying but a picture just does so much more.

Also, the copper won't make a difference with the correct setup...it is what we make the potentials do and not what the metal is made of...just needs to be something that conducts pretty good...it can happen with everything from iron nails to copper to galvanized steel to brass, anodized aluminum and various spark plug metal alloys...I've used all these metals.

[Ghst]

This is the way I'm getting the Green spark ,but again its not happening inside the CSET. Only where I touch the connection on each side of my load coil.

http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/4...eoutsideth.jpg

Also can admin fix it where I don't have to keep constantly signing in. I have to sign in every time change page. (When I go to a thread, reply to a thread and when I submit my reply to a thread) Thanks

[boguslaw]

This is the way I'm getting the Green spark ,but again its not happening inside the CSET. Only where I touch the connection on each side of my load coil.

http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/4...eoutsideth.jpg

Also can admin fix it where I don't have to keep constantly signing in. I have to sign in every time change page. (When I go to a thread, reply to a thread and when I submit my reply to a thread) Thanks

NICE! If you put your coil closer to cset and in the form of pancake coil you will get crude Tesla coil (original)
I think you can also charge cap with one wire using a good diode across cap terminals and negative terminal grounded.

[Matthew Jones]

High frequency electricity causes a green spark across 2 copper contacts.
Its the effect the oxidation has on the flame or somthing.
If you doubt me make a communtator for pulse motor and use a copper to copper contact (Instead of a carbon brush).

Matt

[Ghst]

Green Burst?

I know, I know your gonna say that thats a blue burst. But I said what I saw. All I can see when this happens is the bright center poof. And It does have a green tint to it. Seriously something is going screwy with the color. The backdrop in this photo is white. Here it is tho, in all its glory!

http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/6168/greenburst.jpg

[Aaron]

logging in

Also can admin fix it where I don't have to keep constantly signing in. I have to sign in every time change page. (When I go to a thread, reply to a thread and when I submit my reply to a thread) Thanks

Ghst,

When you sign in with name/pw, click the box that says something like "Remember Me" and it should remember. Do you have cookies enabled? If not, it might not remember...if it is a cookie system that is.

[Aaron]

green color

High frequency electricity causes a green spark across 2 copper contacts.
Its the effect the oxidation has on the flame or somthing.
If you doubt me make a communtator for pulse motor and use a copper to copper contact (Instead of a carbon brush).

Matt

Hi Matt,

The green color with this method really has nothing to do with copper. I get the bright green plasma bursts (not sparks) with steel, copper, iron, aluminum and a handful of different alloys used for sparkplugs.

This has all been thoroughly explored in this thread.

[Aaron]

@ghst

This is the way I'm getting the Green spark ,but again its not happening inside the CSET. Only where I touch the connection on each side of my load coil.

http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/4...eoutsideth.jpg

The lead coming from the cap to the ignition coil should be going to the ground on the ignition coil and not the positive. The cap will still charge with the lv switch open.

You shouldn't need a separate lead from the ignition coil coming to the cap or back side of coil. Defeats the purpose of tube.

768 volts is plenty to get the event inside the tube.

You get a small discharge on the grid side of the coil because you're simply short circuit the capacitor through two coils...the ignition coil primary and the load coil.

You get a big discharge as you indicate because you're simply shorting the capacitor through one coil and not two...the primary of the ignition coil.

1. Anyway, put the lead from the cap going to the positive of the ignition coil and move it to the ground of the ignition coil.

2. Leave switch at LV side open and your cap will charge.

3. When cap is at 700+ volts and assuming that the ignition coil is constantly pulsing - close the lv switch and the cap should collide with the HV pulse and move to the common ground at the LV side.

It would be helpful if you filled in all the connections at the LV side - how the diode is connected to the LV source, etc... what circuit is pulsing your ignition coil, etc...

Also, just to make it work, you don't need the diode at the LV side...you just have to take the LV rod and make it go to ground when you close the switch...that is the easiest way to do it...then after you get that working, you can deal with adding the diode, lv source for some recovery, etc...

[martin]

Electrotek, or anyone...

The motor looks like it used 2 different size cables as well, like there's windings between the FFF cables. Any thoughts?