Resonance Effects For Everyone To Share

[gotoluc]

Hi Luc and others. I have been slowly plodding away at a Tesla coil build. Made some progress today, forming the primary coil. It has 10 turns of 1/4 inch copper pipe in a conical form, was hard to wind it perfectly so some minor kinks and warps to fix yet. I have enough left to wind some different style primaries too.

The Properties of my secondary are as follows.

100mm PVC form, approx 800 turns of 0.53 gauge. 18.4 ohms, 7.69mH (Not the secondary pictured).

I will try some experiments on this one seen below, using an ignition coil to step up voltage to fill the cap of the primary LC. Also some experiments with a tighter coupled helical primary, using Luc's Polarity flipping circuit at lower voltages.

Hi ren,

great job on your coil and secondary ... at what angle is the secondary copper pipe at?

Thanks for sharing

Luc

[ren]

Hi Luc,

The primary (copper pipe) is an inverted cone on an angle of 51.5 degrees. I had a look at some designs of others and their primaries are quite flat, probably less than 20 degrees. I wonder if this is just to keep the HV terminal as isolated as possible. Id imagine that the power transfer would be better with a tighter coupling, I have some more pipe that I am going to use on another primary and test the same secondary with it.

Cheers


Ren

[Lidmotor]

Boxed joule thief

I replicated Paul's boxed joule thief. It is a little different but the same idea with a DPDT switch. Paul I really like this idea of yours. This makes a nice little LED light that runs for days! This design would work as an emergency light-- better than anything else that I have made. Make up half a dozen of them and have them on hand for that bad day when the lights go out. It doesn't make alot of light but it is better than a candle and the multiple days run time is amazing. Here is my version of it.

YouTube - Boxed Joule Thief

Cheers,
Lidmotor

[gotoluc]

Great job Lidmotor

It would be nice to get one at Resonance and see if it would work any longer.

Thanks for sharing

Luc

[sucahyo]

It would be nice to get one at Resonance and see if it would work any longer.

I think it would make output(brightness)/input(current) ratio better. Battery life would still depend on input current, high frequency = better.

[shlodo]

My Resonance Experiments using the 2 transistor Bodkins/Aromaz/Lidmotor circuit

Hi guys,

I know everyone is talking about the Joule Thief ATM, and I can't wait to build one myself.
Heres a video of a guy lighting 400 leds with a AA:
YouTube - Joule Thief Lights 400 Leds On Single AA Battery!


-shlodo

[shlodo]

Yo! Lid! Can you tell me if any of your chargers will charge a battery that will run a motor? Non of the chargers I've done so far will, Bedini, Imhotep, or whatever. They all light lights but non will turn a motor.

Thanks.
Warren
..

Hey mrbreau, I was recently watching the 6th part of the "Energy from the Vacuum" series (everyone must see this) and Bedini was back, talking about radiant energy.
He said that u cant just swap the batteries from the back to the front. you are dealing with 2 different electricities. He said they'll be fine at running bulbs, but hook em up to a motor, and nothing.
He said the way he does it is run an inverter on the radiantly charged battery, then use the AC current to run a normal battery charger on the run battery.

He seemed to be holding a few cards to his chest so to speak....

[Aromaz]

Lost Ozzie ?

@shlodo;

You are a little lost ? Like with cricket? - Typical Ozzie
Springboks are on top again.

Should post either on Imhothep or my new thread where we are going on with more and deeper research of same and similar circuits.

http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...h-group-8.html

We are looking forward to see you there.

Luc might not be happy to go off topic here, and he is doing a great job on the resonance effects. Thank you Luc for all your efforts, I am still following each day!

First a warning: Do not - as in never - connect your scope directly to my circuit. It will get blown. If you just place the probe near any part of the circuit you will see the wave forms clearly and be safe.

The whole idea behind that circuit is dynamic movement of energy - at free will. There is no control over the voltage - it will and does build up. Sometimes I can get a 32mm spark - which at 3,000v per mm translates to an incredible 96,000 volt.

Soonest you add a diode (HV 15Kv or 20Kv minimum) it looses the dynamic ability and you will need to physically control the circuit.

Be very careful where you touch anything, it is HIGH voltage and the complete environment gets charged up - which means any metal object becomes high Voltage capacitor. That table rim of aluminum is a painful shock in waiting!

Now to some of your questions:

Hopefully someone can help me understand what's going on in the circuit.

I am - and we are still trying to figure it out. We have a number of theories, but nothing concrete as yet; though I think we are getting there.

Basically im using the Earth Ground to tickle to base of the 2n3055 to oscillate the ignition coil. That will depend on your type (brand) of 2222 or 3055's. Typically Motorola and Toshiba needs ground activation.

Im confused and excited as to why there are 90V spikes on the 12V end. Is this the radiant energy??

Still under investigation and research, but at present I will say "It is not radiant. It is pure combination of electrons excited by HV and CEMF.

Re your video of wireless: Sorry for the bad news but it is not really Tesla like wireless transmission. It is High Voltage effects caused by free floating electron radiation because of CEMF effects. In next few days I willpost a detailed description of exactly what is happening there.

If u want to see the circuit im using here's the video I posted a while back:
URL not working.

Special note: I like your ability and willingness to do more experiments - outside of what we have shown on the video's.

[Xenomorph]

Aromaz is right, the post should be moved, since this is all about Luc`s cool resonance experiments. However i wanna ask you shlodo, what PWM method are you using (555 timer ? 50% duty pulse?). I think the kickback has a lot to do with the aluminum ball on the HV line, because thats how your setup differs from the common circuits. And i also highly recommend you to discontinue to use the ping pong tables alu-frame as a ground, you risk to get seriously shocked. Use a remote alu-plate that is secured or a physical wire into a ground/earth rod, that way you are on the safe side.
Keep up the enthusiasm!

[amigo]

I replicated Paul's boxed joule thief. It is a little different but the same idea with a DPDT switch. Paul I really like this idea of yours. This makes a nice little LED light that runs for days! This design would work as an emergency light-- better than anything else that I have made. Make up half a dozen of them and have them on hand for that bad day when the lights go out. It doesn't make alot of light but it is better than a candle and the multiple days run time is amazing. Here is my version of it.

YouTube - Boxed Joule Thief

Cheers,
Lidmotor

I've built this over the weekend but could not get it running in the original configuration as presented and my standard miniature coil I made for JTs. With most circuits of this kind I found that the source supply needs to go to the power not the driver coil, so the + from the battery should be on the right side of the trim not the left.

I do not switch back and forth between the batteries, I want to see if the destination battery will get charged.

In any case, with that small change outlined above the circuit has been running for several days now. I measure the voltage on both batteries every 24 hrs and noticed that the destination battery had reached peak and now actually dropped in voltage.

Further more the current that is available to the destination battery after the LED is done with it is ~2 mA, which I do not believe is sufficient to perform the charging process. Total circuit current consumption is ~12 mA, which will let it run for days on a 1.2V 2300mAh NiMH I have connected to it...

[Lidmotor]

Long running JT

I've built this over the weekend but could not get it running in the original configuration as presented and my standard miniature coil I made for JTs. With most circuits of this kind I found that the source supply needs to go to the power not the driver coil, so the + from the battery should be on the right side of the trim not the left.

I do not switch back and forth between the batteries, I want to see if the destination battery will get charged.

In any case, with that small change outlined above the circuit has been running for several days now. I measure the voltage on both batteries every 24 hrs and noticed that the destination battery had reached peak and now actually dropped in voltage.

Further more the current that is available to the destination battery after the LED is done with it is ~2 mA, which I do not believe is sufficient to perform the charging process. Total circuit current consumption is ~12 mA, which will let it run for days on a 1.2V 2300mAh NiMH I have connected to it...

@ Amigo---I'm glad that you have one of these things running and that it has run that long. The first one that I built is heading towards the 1 week mark. Every morning I am swapping the batteries and they have settled into 1.21v on the source and 1.26v on the charge after each 24hrs. The batteries that I am using are Rayovac Hybrid NiHM 1.2v 2100mAh. I chose these because they are made to hold their charge better than a standard NiMH. I also have found that they are designed to maintain a certain voltage during their discharge and then die rather quickly. My first experience with this was on the 97 hour run on my "CFL Table Candle" project. The voltage slowly dropped until the last day then they went down quickly to .5v.
There may be nothing special going on here but I do think that energy is being transfered into the charge battery even though the amperage is low. When this experiment finally stops I may run the test again by putting the two batteries together in parallel as the source with no charge battery. If anything unusual is happening here then the run time should be less.
At worst we have made a light that will run for a week on two AAs. That ain't bad.

Lidmotor

[sucahyo]

He said that u cant just swap the batteries from the back to the front. you are dealing with 2 different electricities. He said they'll be fine at running bulbs, but hook em up to a motor, and nothing.

This is what I experience too. The coil at positive side will have directional current, while coil at negative side will have current coming from both direction. I currently make a video of how BEMF happen (just coil and neon) today. BEMF happen on switch opening no matter where the coil located.
YouTube - How BEMF happen #1

See the part where the little neon glow.
YouTube - How BEMF happen #2

[amigo]

Hi Lidmotor,

My batteries are Sanyo NiMH 2500 (from Costco hehe) and I have been taking measurements (remove power, let it rest for a few moments, then measure) every 24 hrs of my setup, which is still running (LED still looks pretty bright):

Source batt.-----7:15PM-----Destination batt.
1.349V-----------Jan 19--------1.156V-------------(start)
1.307V-----------Jan 20--------1.173V
1.283V-----------Jan 21--------1.169V
1.272V-----------Jan 22--------1.164V

I do not swap mine, as I said, so this is all from the original source battery...

[Lidmotor]

When does a Joule Thief's luck run out??

Hi Lidmotor,

My batteries are Sanyo NiMH 2500 (from Costco hehe) and I have been taking measurements (remove power, let it rest for a few moments, then measure) every 24 hrs of my setup, which is still running (LED still looks pretty bright):

Source batt.-----7:15PM-----Destination batt.
1.349V-----------Jan 19--------1.156V-------------(start)
1.307V-----------Jan 20--------1.173V
1.283V-----------Jan 21--------1.169V
1.272V-----------Jan 22--------1.164V

I do not swap mine, as I said, so this is all from the original source battery...

@Amigo--- These JT circuits are supposed to keep running even below .5v. That means that your's and mine should run for quite awhile longer. With you not swapping the batteries and me doing it, we should compare notes when this is all over. I'm surprised that your charge battery is not charging up. On my system it does but it could be because of circuit component differences and settings between the two setups. I also looked at the charge aspect on the scope and did cap charge tests before I started the experiment. Lets stay in touch on this thing. I'll let you know as soon as mine stops.

Lidmotor

[Aaron]

dip in voltage

Amigo,

The moment you see the destination battery voltage drop after being on the charger for a while, that is when it needs to be drained through a resistive load down to whatever voltage you want to bring it to in order to start recharging it again.

The DIP in the destination voltage is the signature of the battery telling you it is done. Keeping it on the charger after that is counter productive.

You may see the dip in voltage happening at higher and higher voltages over the conditioning process.

Anyway, that is exactly what the dip indicates.