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  • Originally posted by ashtweth View Post
    Guys still going strong here and providing fan power and light and conditioning batteries .

    i dont think you need 2 toroids but here they are as we are using them ATM. This is just the Schemo out of the video.
    Imageshack - panaceajoulethiefschema

    Ash
    In the schematic, there is an extra wire that should not be between the input and output of the 7812 regulator. It's jumpering the input and output, so the unregulated 12V is connected to the regulated 12V output of the 7812.

    I'm not sure which of the wires should be removed. I'm thinking that the power to the toroids' A1 windings should come directly from the unregulated 12V, because it's high current, and doesn't need to be regulated. The others I'm not sure. Should the wire with the two 1k resistors in parallel be connected to the unregulated 12V or regulated?

    Comment


    • Is this the best version and have the guys tested out the greyed part of the circuit used for extra battery charging?

      Edit: I'll take it that people haven't been able to replicate the resonance/radiant systems explained in freenergy.uk 's Chapter 10 PDF?
      Why else have Stanley Meyer Explained and S.M. the True threads?
      Last edited by eternalightwithin; 10-14-2009, 03:07 AM.

      Comment


      • Ok guys and girls.

        I have a quest for you.

        I have pondered this for some time and now I see people starting to do it. Lidmotor just used his SEC 18-1 in a video and showed the LED's shining back onto a small solar panel.

        My thoughts are this.

        Use one of your joule thiefs designed to run at 1-3v, the lower the better. It should work through transformer action, the secondaries voltage needs to be high. I believe the little transformers in flash cameras are 1.5v in 300 out? Something along the lines of Freezers circuit, simple with low losses.

        If the secondary is 300v the one could use that to light up alot of LED's in series. around 80 or more. It may need to be regulated somewhat, capacitance, resistance or another load like a neon perhaps, and you would have to be careful hooking up too little amount of LED's on the first run.

        If someone is going to do this then look on ebay for the LED's. Id suggest some ones I got, large 10mm ones 140,000 mcd super bright, 50 for $20. Dr Stifflers unit ran 48 of them very bright for a pittance.

        So the goal would be:

        Low voltage oscillator, high voltage secondary.

        As many large super bright LED's in a series or parallel configuration as possible. Preferably on one solid board, breadboard perhaps to start with, closely spaced.

        And finally see how much you can recover with a solar module. You could get a 1.5 or 3v 500ma module pretty cheap, or you could use a 12v module and add some form of regulation for the low voltage oscillator. Perhaps throw in a cap or super cap on the output of the solar panel and see if one can do the switch or recharge the primary. You should probably throw a bridge rectifier in off the solar as well, maybe not if it has internal diodes etc.

        So, who is up for the challenge? I know some of you already have most of this stuff laying around, Ive been meaning to get to it for some time myself, but you know how it goes. All work and no play...

        You should be able to get a decent amount back, these things put out a fair amount of light. Some pics below to illustrate.

        Regards
        Last edited by ren; 11-21-2011, 10:33 PM.
        "Once you've come to the conclusion that what what you know already is all you need to know, then you have a degree in disinterest." - John Dobson

        Comment


        • Joule-Theif-like circuits

          I found this today...
          shades of Joule-Thief:

          TALKING ELECTRONICS LED Torch

          Comment


          • Originally posted by ren View Post
            Ok guys and girls.

            I have a quest for you.


            Use one of your joule thiefs designed to run at 1-3v, the lower the better. It should work through transformer action, the secondaries voltage needs to be high. I believe the little transformers in flash cameras are 1.5v in 300 out?

            If the secondary is 300v the one could use that to light up alot of LED's in series.... or another load like a neon perhaps, and you would have to be careful hooking up too little amount of LED's on the first run.

            You should be able to get a decent amount back, these things put out a fair amount of light. Some pics below to illustrate.
            Hi ren,
            Hi everybody,

            I know a few of you great people have seen my work at overunity and youtube.

            I would like to reply to this, especially since I have been working on a bedini circuit for the last bunch o days.

            It is easy to light one or even 2 fluoro tubes from a camera circuit.
            Without gadgetmall's mods, this seems to run down my battery in 2 hours.

            I find it more satisfying to make my own toroids, and, so, after I lit a pair of tubes (26 watts total) with a camera circuit in january, I worked at making the right kind of toroid etc. by hand.

            I NEVER use the primary joule thief and everything I do ALWAYS comes from the secondary.

            I forget the date but I think in june, I managed to light a straight 18 inch 15 watt grow light fluoro tube.
            The trick was that I needed to get over 400v in this case 450volts .
            The pulses went down as the volts went up (I find this is a normal thing) and they went to 5.6kHz. definitely audible.

            This was with a very large toroid (3.25") and 240 turns on the secondary. There was plenty of room for more turns, but I had planned this number . Anyway, it worked. I only need to connect it up and snap a neo onto one lead for the light to go on. I can then remove the neo.
            This light stays on for 5 1/4 hours. It goes out when the battery is at 1.1v.

            Later, I lit a 4 watt fluoro tube with another hand wound toroid. This had 411v and about the same frequency, but the toroid was much smaller. I do not know why I couldn't get the bigger lights to start. They almost did, but only the 4 watt would start. I have put this circuit aside but it might only be that I was using a AAA instead of a AA. In any case the length of light was umm 2 hours or less and that is, of course, because the light was a AAA with 750mAH rating.

            I have not tried to charge a solar panel with the light but I can't imagine it would be far off, but I am not into that aspect, so if you are... go for it.
            I will get my other computer up so I can let you see the 2 toroids with fluoro tubes. [OK I did it].

            Here is my youtube channel for anyone interested.

            hmm that took it straight off my clipboard. just in case, I will simply paste it:

            http://www.youtube.com/results?searc...rch_type=&aq=f

            jeanna
            Attached Files
            Last edited by jeanna; 10-20-2009, 02:24 AM. Reason: adding 2 pics

            Comment


            • Jeana,

              since you mentioned "toroid coil" i feel almost compelled to mention "Marko Rodin" , you may ( or not ) want to have a look at the Marko Rodin thread...might take youi in a direction you had never thought of.

              David. D

              Comment


              • Thanks Rave154,

                I have looked a little.
                I can come back into the art of coils soon, but In my latest work I have been just using one coil to create pulses and then studying what to do with the pulses. The focus has been on what to do to make the pulses useful.

                The joule thief is such an easy way to make a pulse generator... and for such little cost! 1.2v battery that lasts for days. Turn the resistor at the base of the transistor and the pulse changes. Add more turns around the toroid and the secondary has higher volts.
                ---

                I saw something I like a lot on youtube (I hope I saved the link somewhere) where the presenter had made a rodin coil in a trifilar way. So, Instead of having 18 wires in a discreet grouping where each grouping is next to another grouping on either side, each wire was next to one from another wire on each side.

                I saw where morpher44 made a rodin coil from a tuna can. I am glad to see I wouldn't have to buy a fisherprice donut to wind a toroid!.
                MK1 who has made an amazing study of ways to wind great coils, made one on a ferrite toroid. That is the one I will look at before the others, because I know exactly what I would do with it!

                At the moment I am taking a break from fruitless magnet spinning trying to make my bedini get started.

                thank you . Rodin coil is a good suggestion,

                jeanna

                Comment


                • fisherprice

                  Originally posted by jeanna View Post
                  I saw where morpher44 made a rodin coil from a tuna can. I am glad to see I wouldn't have to buy a fisherprice donut to wind a toroid!.
                  jeanna
                  Yeah... I almost did. Went to target and stood their looking at them.
                  How embarrassing!!. And pricy.
                  I'de rather smell like a fish!!

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by jeanna View Post
                    Hi ren,
                    Hi everybody,

                    I know a few of you great people have seen my work at overunity and youtube.

                    I would like to reply to this, especially since I have been working on a bedini circuit for the last bunch o days.

                    It is easy to light one or even 2 fluoro tubes from a camera circuit.
                    Without gadgetmall's mods, this seems to run down my battery in 2 hours.

                    I find it more satisfying to make my own toroids, and, so, after I lit a pair of tubes (26 watts total) with a camera circuit in january, I worked at making the right kind of toroid etc. by hand.

                    I NEVER use the primary joule thief and everything I do ALWAYS comes from the secondary.

                    I forget the date but I think in june, I managed to light a straight 18 inch 15 watt grow light fluoro tube.
                    The trick was that I needed to get over 400v in this case 450volts .
                    The pulses went down as the volts went up (I find this is a normal thing) and they went to 5.6kHz. definitely audible.

                    This was with a very large toroid (3.25") and 240 turns on the secondary. There was plenty of room for more turns, but I had planned this number . Anyway, it worked. I only need to connect it up and snap a neo onto one lead for the light to go on. I can then remove the neo.
                    This light stays on for 5 1/4 hours. It goes out when the battery is at 1.1v.

                    Later, I lit a 4 watt fluoro tube with another hand wound toroid. This had 411v and about the same frequency, but the toroid was much smaller. I do not know why I couldn't get the bigger lights to start. They almost did, but only the 4 watt would start. I have put this circuit aside but it might only be that I was using a AAA instead of a AA. In any case the length of light was umm 2 hours or less and that is, of course, because the light was a AAA with 750mAH rating.

                    I have not tried to charge a solar panel with the light but I can't imagine it would be far off, but I am not into that aspect, so if you are... go for it.
                    I will get my other computer up so I can let you see the 2 toroids with fluoro tubes. [OK I did it].

                    Here is my youtube channel for anyone interested.

                    hmm that took it straight off my clipboard. just in case, I will simply paste it:

                    http://www.youtube.com/results?searc...rch_type=&aq=f

                    jeanna

                    Hi Jeanna,

                    Ive seen some of your work before. Thanks for replying. I like the look of that large toroid. I have one at home, I will give it a shot sometime. Yes I think that even the fluro would be enough in some circumstances.

                    I see you say you are working on a Bedini style charger, let us know if we can be of assistance. Ive built a few in my time, as have many here. It can be a drama getting it to kick over the first time, and is often the simplest of mistakes. I have a large unit up my sleeve at the moment, its going to be interesting to see it up and running.

                    Looks like I will have to have a stab at this myself. Jeanna, have you ever tried a string of LEDs on the secondary? I assume you would have to have quite a few. The LEDs I have lit with Dr Stifflers circuit kick any fluros equivalent output in the butt as far as intensity goes.

                    Regards
                    "Once you've come to the conclusion that what what you know already is all you need to know, then you have a degree in disinterest." - John Dobson

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by ren View Post


                      I see you say you are working on a Bedini style charger, let us know if we can be of assistance. Ive built a few in my time, as have many here. It can be a drama getting it to kick over the first time, and is often the simplest of mistakes. I have a large unit up my sleeve at the moment, its going to be interesting to see it up and running.
                      Thanks... I may

                      Looks like I will have to have a stab at this myself. Jeanna, have you ever tried a string of LEDs on the secondary? I assume you would have to have quite a few. The LEDs I have lit with Dr Stifflers circuit kick any fluros equivalent output in the butt as far as intensity goes.
                      Yes, I have. Are you asking about a string as in christmas lights?
                      They are heavily protected from surges and light up very dimly with a joule thief unless you take out the current/voltage blockers. I found one 1N4007 at each end of a 70led string last spring. eesh.
                      It is much easier to just make the string, I think.

                      With the latest video I show 16 in one string but 30 all together in 5 separate strings, which is what I was aiming to do. These are all in series but in different 'circuits' within the same pulse system.
                      I could have made these much brighter using a bigger toroid, but I purposely miniaturized it for convenience. It is easily expandable.

                      In February, or back a while and memory is cluttered now, a bunch of us tried to get a solar panel to recharge a AA from leds. They seemed to be not as bright to the panel even though they seem plenty bright to the eyes.
                      The other real advantage to using the fluorotube for recharging efforts is that you can put the panel behind the tube to absorb the light and still use the light to read.

                      I am glad you are going to try this.

                      Xee2 made a much simpler version than mine on that same toroid and he claims that a 2T,10T 80T joule thief turned on a 15w or was it 4 w tube. [I have not replicated that]

                      For ease of explanation, we agreed on a name system that goes like this...
                      2T, the first term is the base coil or the winding connected to the base
                      10T, the second term is the collector coil
                      80T this 3rd term is the number of turns on the secondary.

                      Thank you,

                      jeanna

                      Comment


                      • Thanks for the info Jeanna.

                        I will admit the biggest hole in my theory at the moment is just how well a solar panel will pick up the light. I also thought a fluro could be used in this config because of its 360 degree projection of light, thus allowing a solar panel to be placed on one side and still have useable light. In the past when I have done this it was possible to get some out from the solar panel, but no way near enough to supplement the 12v input I had at the time.

                        Which led me towards minimum input methods.

                        One thing these LEDs do have going for them is they are focused, which doesnt leave much room for external output, but will allow me to see just how powerful they are in projecting ALL their light onto the panel.

                        Regards
                        "Once you've come to the conclusion that what what you know already is all you need to know, then you have a degree in disinterest." - John Dobson

                        Comment


                        • So Ren,

                          I hope you can try it and let us know.

                          Actually, maybe I can try this while I wait for better magnets for my bedini motor.

                          In that case I will let you know.
                          But, do try this as well.
                          Experiments are so much more fun than theories.



                          jeanna

                          Comment


                          • Joule thief LC circuits

                            @ jeanna - vortex just pointed me to your youtube videos, and I noticed you are pulsing a variety of different inductors, causing a cacaphony of broadband RF frequencies.

                            This is the secret IMHO to unlocking 'extra' energy, and should cause a temperature drop.

                            I also noticed you are using LC tank circuits as repeaters, to inject more energy back into your system to light more LED's.

                            And that you are doing this via trial and error (the best way, and most fun).

                            The following is something I've been working on for a while; it's come together in theory in the last day.

                            YouTube - poor man's spectrum analyser theory of operation

                            it's been designed for dr Stiffler's sec, but could help you determine the best frequencies to make your LC circuits resonate at for best results.

                            Love and light
                            Atoms move for free. It's all about resonance and phase. Make the circuit open and build a generator.

                            Comment


                            • Thank you Inquorate,

                              but could help you determine the best frequencies to make your LC circuits resonate at for best results.
                              This, but in the opposite direction is my overall aim at the moment. [= With a given frequency, how do I make the right inductor, or inductor/capacitor choice for best output.]
                              I am too new to electronics to be able to see the application, but I could try something like this, if I could understand how to use and where to connect it to my circuit.

                              I have purchased a LC meter so at least I know what the inductance is when I make, or use a coil.

                              Your drawing reminds me of a crystal radio.
                              I do have one of those, and since there are NO AM radio stations near me, I can use it without interference from them, but again, I do not know how to hook it up to my circuit.

                              thank you,

                              jeanna

                              Comment


                              • Hi Watson, thanks a lot for the feedback my friend!, here is the new one as per requested
                                Imageshack - panaceajoulethiefschema

                                One thing tho, bypass capacitor - does the capacitor go across pins 8 and 1, or pins 5 and 1? And what capacitor value do you recommend?

                                Ash

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