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I do not think so.
The polarity of the inductors is opposite on the joule thief.
Do you see those dots?
They do not appear like this on bedin's circuits.
This primary is a center tapped one which means if you wind the turns for the base, then pull out the wire and create a length of loop, then resume in the same direction for the collector coil you will have a configuration that is very easy to modify.
Remember to scrape the center pulled out piece and you must put THAT into the +pos battery .
The outside ends go to the resistor at the base of the transistor, and to the collector.
We have found that it works best on most toroids when there are fewer turns on the base coil and more on the collector coil.
Then remember the magic happens with the secondary... the amps draw usually goes down and the thing produces powerful and useful volts.
Hello everyone , my name is Mark , i wanted to share some early test results from , my toilet paper unit jt , (tpu jt) , some people are working on those types of coil in one of the tpu tread over at OU.
I made this quick test , with what i had around , but it works , so its 18 turns bi-fillar jt (blue and the white one) The jt wires goes 3 times a round not unlike the Rodin Coil idea . I do not claim the coil concept , but made it into a jt .
The green wire is 4 turns i get 5v from 4 turns(after a 1n4007 bridge) , so it is a step down ratio 18/4.
There is room for improvement , since it worked on the first try , i did not tune any thing yet .
At OU they say the best angle is 45 degrees .
On one picture you barely see a bright white led from the secondary , no diodes , it only works one way.
Hi everybody,
I just posted my newest video.
It is a joule thief secondary running a Tesla Hairpin type circuit... no sparks, just the shhh quiet of the transistor and maybe a little hum from the wires.
i just done this to see how low i could run this 265000 mcd led 10mm
you can't light this on a 3v coin cell
oh.... you can light 3 regular 5mm leds on this a much lower ma than this
i bet this would last a good while on a AA or AAA
Hi folks, Hi Jeanna, i posted in ou forum also but was wondering if those LOA bulbs, like the one you said is supposed to be equivalent to a 25 watt incandescent, can you compare it to the standard bulb to see if it really does have similar light output at what the standard illuminating power would be for the LOA bulb. I think they rate the leds by the spot of light they create which wouldn't fill a room like the standard bulb, though maybe you already know this. thanks
peace love light
Tyson
I have been using those bulbs for quite a while now and have changed over about half of the bulbs in my house to them. 25watts sounds about right. I have 4 of them in my ceiling fan in my 11x14 bedroom and they give sufficient light to that room. I also use them in a 1/2 bath and they're good in there also. Now in my master bath they don't quite give out enough light for shaving or for gals to put make up on so I use half cfl and half led bulbs. hope this helps.
well
i wanted to see how low a led would go.. and i got bored so i went to work on it.....
nice research it was... now if i can do something with it beside a led????
So Kazm,
My question is about the switch.
Since this is the unmodified bulb,...
Have you been able to turn off the light by the switch.?
I find, once it goes on I can only turn mine off by removing the battery.
Hi Jeanna,
Ran more tests today and have had no luck with the un-modified bulb or the modified bulb. In both cases when they battery is on but the socket switch is off, the battery is still actively being drained. I found a neat way to visualize this by using the 1-aa cell phone charger which has a red led indicator light on it which is lit when the battery is activated. As far as I can tell however this isn't related to the bulbs at all, it's just the way the JT works, i.e. as long as there is input from the battery there will be HV on the secondary, regardless of what's connected to the secondary (could be nothing). It's like the circuit itself is the load. You mentioned that "It is only happening with the unmodified LoA bulbs." so you seem to have gotten this working correctly with the switch using a gutted LED bulb...what am I missing?
I have a white lamp that made a video appearance to show how to modify the LoA bulb, and to add a switch into it.
It is off most of the time but the battery is in place and whenever I want a center-of-the-kitchen -table light, I turn it on.
It has been like this for weeks, so it really does go off.
Maybe this is relating to the charger instead of your switch?
What is that charger?
Somebody like jonny thought the charger was a battery with a joule thief right?
If that is true, then you have a toroid in 2 places, and maybe a cap in the charger too?
Are those chargers expensive?
Anybody game to open one up?
I can look in the thrift store next week.
This is getting really interesting.
I wonder if we can turn this to our advantage?
Thanks for doing that test,
Have either of you tried using a MLJ21194 transistor on the big toriod set up. I just hooked up a good meter and I'm drawing 500ma! What the hell! Is it the transistor or is there another problem? I'm playing around trying to charge 12 volt batteries with the spikes. Any advice.
Ok I just did quick test and unhooked 12 volt charging battery and input amps droped down quite a bit. But its still over 100ma. I have a 100ma and a 5amp meter so it pegs the 100ma meter and is hard to tell draw on 5amp meter when I unhook charge battery.
Yup, my guess is that it is the transistor.
One day I checked the mAdraw diff between the TIP3055 and the TIP31.
I try to use the TIP31 as a result of that test. (but if you use 12v you might need the 3055,)
I am not convinced about testing amps anymore.
I think the resistance required for the test materially changes the circuit and the result is meaningless. I am just beginning to no longer look at amps draw because of this, so I may switch back.
In a related test (to see how much of the draw in the circuit comes from the transistor), I took a rechargeable AAA and used the same cell of the charger each time and I made battery rundown tests on the exact same circuit with the same everything except different load from the secondary.
The final test was without any load at all.
All times the life of the battery was about the same. (within 6% of each other)
I do not want to repeat this too many times for the sake of my batteries. Not to mention... each time it took about all day.
But I think it is worth noting that the transistor is the big amps draw in a joule thief. That is, once you have removed the led from the basic jt led spot and use only a secondary.
===========
Now, to answer the q what can I do?
1- You will get higher frequency and lower voltage output to the secondary if you RAISE the resistance at the base of the resistor.
So, if you can stand the lower voltage, you can lower the amps draw from the battery this way.
2- It is fiddly but adding a cap across the base resistor can also significantly lower the amps draw.
You need a big box of caps to find the right one, but they do not need to be special, because at the base resistor spot the volts are still very low.
(Keep records because you will not want to repeat this each time. )
@ Jeanna & All
Chilliqueen has posted a new simple circuit that produces 250v from one AA. It is your idea Jeanna of using a secondary on a JT but-----he did it using only parts from a disposable flash camera. The circuit we could use on our toroids if we want but I think that I will try to replicate the exact one that he shows in his video. It is an excellent HOW TO video and the only hard part will be getting the parts off the camera circuit board without damaging them.
@ Jeanna & All
Chilliqueen has posted a new simple circuit that produces 250v from one AA. It is your idea Jeanna of using a secondary on a JT but-----he did it using only parts from a disposable flash camera. The circuit we could use on our toroids if we want but I think that I will try to replicate the exact one that he shows in his video. It is an excellent HOW TO video and the only hard part will be getting the parts off the camera circuit board without damaging them.
here are the tried and true diagrams or schematics of the camera transformers
.. more simple and alot with better results..
oh, 250 volts from a camera transformer is low compared to some of what you will see here..
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