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  • Yes watson, anyone can crank out DC from a dynamo, but if you connect the coil to a reed switch and have the coil close at the peak of your hand cranked AC waveform, now you have radiant too, and can do alot more.

    Its not magic free energy, its smarter use of what we have and also learning new ways of getting what we need from previously unknown sources.

    Also your choice of transistor is important like you found. A sharp attack and decay time is what you need, and for low voltages you need a specific make for that, which would not work for 9v or more, and there you would use power transistors. How many times I thought I could get it brighter with a 9volt and learn that both tranny and LEDs failed in a picosecond.... So if you want to make a hardy JT that can go from 1v to 12, use a MJL21194 which is one of the better power transistors, but if you know you only will work with 1 to 3 v, then 2n2222 mpsa06 or what have you. I think mpsa06 does not make a good JT transistor because you need almost a whole volt to turn it on, however it might have the sharpest rise an fall time, but I was reading a different transistor only needed .2v (but good luck keeping that transistor from frying with any more) , also I think PNP might use less current.


    Also, watson, your discovery of a cap acrost the battery reminds me of a stiffler ladder filter... the first part anyway. just caps acrost the + and - terminals, with ferrites going along bothways. Isolates the oscillator from power supply.
    Last edited by CosmicFarmer; 03-13-2010, 02:26 AM.

    Comment


    • Well I've not built a circuit for around 8 months or so, till yesterday. I took apart a motorcycle/car battery charger that wasn't working. Used the small wire from the transformer and wound me an air-core bifiler coil around some plastic electrical conduit pipe.

      I used 4AA batteries on the source and brought back a 9.6v battery pack that I've had for a number of years that is to an rc plane. The pack wouldn't take a charge, and couldn't power any load. But after putting it on the JT it had voltage in it. So I took off the 4AA's and put a different 9.6v pack as the source. Then hooked up the dead 9.6v pack on the charge for three hours. And three hours later it had voltage, and now it will also spin an electric motor. And now I'm using that same pack to bring back to life a 12v emergency car start battery that's been dead for a number of years.

      This 12v battery had like 1v or something before I began charging it. But now it's taking voltage and it'll run the electric motor.

      Good stuff. And now my mind is going again, so I have questions.

      I've read through the thread. But in many places I was skimming, cus right now I'm interested in the JT for a battery charger. I wanna see if it'll give me longer run times on my RC packs. I've heard before of batteries lasting longer after they were conditioned with radiant charging. anyhow...


      Has anyone looped the charge to the source to keep the source battery from draining any energy? I recall from the Imhotep Bedini thread that some were using a cap pulser and instead of charging batteries with it they would loop it back to the source battery and it would lower the amp draw. But what about one that maintaines the battery level or even charges it.


      Could I run a motor somehow off this circuit? I was thinking of using the trifiler. I was thinking of using the two coils to run the circuit and create a charge, and if I could somehow I would like to loop the charge energy back to the source. Then I would like to use the third coil to power an electric motor. I could test this eventually. But right now I don't have any wire. Maybe if I can find a couple other transformers to take apart.


      Also on the trifiler setup from the circuit diagram in the first post. There are two charge points. But can I connect those two charge points into one and use it for charging into a single battery?

      I'm sure I'll have other questions. But these three seem to be getting my mind going the most.

      I really appreciate all of the time everyone of you has spent tinkering and sharing everything you've accomplished. It makes it easy for someone like me that knows so little to follow in your footprints and get results. I suppose you can tell from my questions that I'm quite a novice.

      I'll keep sending energy your way so that you'll happen upon a device that is uber simple which can power an entire home. I'm thinking something that runs indefinately without a source input. Something which simply requires one to flip a switch to turn it on. And beleive you me, if I somehow stumble upon such a device in a tinkering moment you will all be the FIRST to know.
      If you've made it this far then I've finally quit rambling.

      Comment


      • looping back

        Several people have tried to loop the circuit. I do not think anyone has had a self runner yet.

        Could I run a motor somehow off this circuit? I was thinking of using the trifiler. I was thinking of using the two coils to run the circuit and create a charge, and if I could somehow I would like to loop the charge energy back to the source. Then I would like to use the third coil to power an electric motor. I could test this eventually.
        I think I understand what you said about your plans for multiple secondaries.
        I made a lot of tests on this last year with good results, and I just want to mention this interesting piece I saw. (among others, there were many interesting things, but this might help a lot.)

        I found that each circuit that comes off the same toroid needs its own separate inductor. If you have 2 secondaries coming from the same toroid only one will work at a time, but if you get the right inductance both will work perfectly.
        It was interesting too that while I ended up adding caps to many of the inductors, it was the inductor that made the difference, so I fitted the inductor first then added a cap for better repeating.

        I hope this helps.
        This is really great fun.

        jeanna

        Comment


        • Hi joule theif folks. I wanted to post this info in this thread too because a lot of you are pulsing toroidal cores, i think you may find this useful. I have it set up in a way that it is easy to see the effect im showing, at different frequencies its going to behave a little different, so your specific coils may need some tweeking if your going to play with it. Its all about tuning inductance. Here is the vid.

          YouTube - Ed Leedskalnin Magnet 4

          Comment


          • Originally posted by cody View Post
            Hi joule theif folks ... a lot of you are pulsing toroidal cores ... you may find this useful. I have it setup in a way ... to see the effect ... at different frequencies ... your specific coils may need some tweaking

            Cody,

            That was a very informative video presentation, clear and concise. Let me thank you for taking the time to setup the camera work and angles, so as not to interfere with the shot (steady camera for the win).

            Thank you,

            - Schpankme

            Comment


            • Originally posted by theremart View Post
              I have built a small JT, and now want to move up to a larger one. I tried to just copy the circuit as before but my first transistor blew but I wanted to try slayer's circuit. I don't understand the -A -B -C +A +B +C in the section i have circled in red below. It appears to be the coil, are you using a trifilar coil?

              Thanks!



              hi, can you tell me what the BEMF means in the diagram ?

              Comment


              • It's an acronym that stands for Back Electro Magnetic Force, "if I recall correctly". On the diagram it's just noting where the collection of radiant spikes are coming from. It has nothing to do with the name of the electric component that's above it.

                It's basically the point where you connect the charge battery's positive terminal. And then you connect the charge battery's negative back to the positive of the run battery, the diagram doesn't show this part.
                If you've made it this far then I've finally quit rambling.

                Comment


                • One way to keep from frying the transistor

                  Originally posted by CosmicFarmer View Post
                  Yes watson, anyone can crank out DC from a dynamo, but if you connect the coil to a reed switch and have the coil close at the peak of your hand cranked AC waveform, now you have radiant too, and can do alot more.

                  Its not magic free energy, its smarter use of what we have and also learning new ways of getting what we need from previously unknown sources.

                  Also your choice of transistor is important like you found. A sharp attack and decay time is what you need, and for low voltages you need a specific make for that, which would not work for 9v or more, and there you would use power transistors. How many times I thought I could get it brighter with a 9volt and learn that both tranny and LEDs failed in a picosecond.... So if you want to make a hardy JT that can go from 1v to 12, use a MJL21194 which is one of the better power transistors, but if you know you only will work with 1 to 3 v, then 2n2222 mpsa06 or what have you. I think mpsa06 does not make a good JT transistor because you need almost a whole volt to turn it on, however it might have the sharpest rise an fall time, but I was reading a different transistor only needed .2v (but good luck keeping that transistor from frying with any more) , also I think PNP might use less current.


                  Also, watson, your discovery of a cap acrost the battery reminds me of a stiffler ladder filter... the first part anyway. just caps acrost the + and - terminals, with ferrites going along bothways. Isolates the oscillator from power supply.
                  The JT puts some uniquely demanding requirements on the transistor. One obviously is the low voltage, 1.5V or less. Power transistors don't make good JT transistors, partly because their gain doesn't hold up at low voltages. And the 2N3055 for example doesn't have much gain to begin with, only about 50 or less.

                  And the low voltage means that if the transistor is supposed to switch even a few hundred milliwatts or power, then it has to switch a lot of current, and that means it has to drive a low impedance. For a typical JT, than means 1.5V at about a half amp, or about 3 ohms. It has to be much less than that, a fraction of an ohm, or else it will waste a lot of the power.

                  The PN2222 or MPS2222 (I'm pretty certain it's not a 2N2222, which has a metal case and is 4 times as expensive and hard to find) and the 2N4401 are better than a 2N3904 which can't handle much current. The BC337 is better, but still can't do as good a job as a transistor made for this job.

                  One transistor that does a really good job in a JT is the one they use in a flash circuit from a disposable camera. This used to be a 2SD965, but I think many of the circuits now use a surface mount transistor which is really difficult to remove and use. You can get an equivalent one from Fairchild, the KSD5041, or the NTE11 is available from electronics stores but not Radio Scrap. These can handle several amps at low voltages, and put out enough current to drive a 1W LED to decent brightness.

                  These transistors look just like a PN2222 but handle several amps. They don't handle much power, but if the circuit is switching fast, the transistor doesn't have to dissipate much power. If you just have to have a power transistor there's a special superbeta transistor from Fairchild, the KSD1273, which has twenty times the gain of a 2N3055. With a gain of over a thousand, it's up there with the darlington transistors, but it's not, and doesn't have the inherent limitation of a darlington, two base-emitter junctions in series that have to have at least 1.3V to turn on. It will outperform a darlington at low voltages in a JT.

                  Finally, to keep from frying transistors, make your adjustment pot go down to a minimum resistance of a few hundred ohms, so it won't draw so much current through the base and burn it out. Put a 220 or 330 ohm resistor in series with the wiper arm of the pot so when it's turned all the way down it can't go below that resistance.

                  Another way to reduce the current is to use a MOSFET, which doesn't draw any gate current. And they don't go into meltdown as easily as a 2N3055 because the current doesn't go through a PN junction like a regular BJT. And FETs can do some other fun stuff. The 2n7000 is cheap and looks like a PN2222, but it's not. I've put them in a JT and it worked down to 0.27 volt - see my blog here.

                  And every power source must have a bypass cap across it, especially if it powers a 555 timer chip. This must have a 0.1 uF across the power pins at the chip. Read the 555 application sheet, I think it's AN70, for the reasons.

                  Have fun experimenting.

                  Comment


                  • @Watson I bet you will like this transistor ...

                    @all

                    I just made one NEW VIDEO , testing my last unit , the secondary are not yet installed on the second and third core , but it show interesting results and blow out of the water the AG theory ...

                    You ca see lighting a bulb on a core not connected to anything and leds at the same time one the primary...

                    Also at the end and attempt to show the sparks from the secondary lighting a 6 volt 250 mili bulb , circuit runs on a 1.25 aa battery.


                    YouTube - YouTube - abramrk1's Channel

                    More details Fibonacci, platonic solids and Vortex coils

                    2x 2 volts 60 mili plus 1x 6 volts 250 mili

                    I also know how to modify the secondary to fit any configuration rodin to star ship .
                    Attached Files
                    Last edited by mk1; 03-25-2010, 04:45 AM.

                    Comment


                    • hey folks
                      this isn't to impressive but i thought it was neat

                      YouTube - bjt part 2

                      it has 4 volts going back to the battery on both sides
                      at 1.0 volts it has 8.0 volts going back
                      and it is running at 104ma's
                      it will run alot more leds but once the test started i didn't want to mess with it.. i wanted to see how fast the battery would drain

                      out
                      robbie

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by kooler View Post
                        hey folks
                        this isn't to impressive but i thought it was neat

                        YouTube - bjt part 2

                        it has 4 volts going back to the battery on both sides
                        at 1.0 volts it has 8.0 volts going back
                        and it is running at 104ma's
                        it will run alot more leds but once the test started i didn't want to mess with it.. i wanted to see how fast the battery would drain

                        out
                        robbie
                        Hello Robbie
                        Sounds like you are on to something.Are you still running the test and if so the best of luck to you.Thanks.Tec
                        PS. I watched your video A big thumbs up
                        Last edited by Tectalabyss; 03-29-2010, 02:39 PM. Reason: add

                        Comment


                        • Hi Slayer007...

                          I tried to replicate your large coil Joule Thief using a bedini style bifilar coil of 600 turns of 21 guage enameled wire.

                          I connected it to a 12 volt 4 amp hour battery (as run battery) and 8 rechargable AA batteries in series (charge Battery) and the coil got so hot it burned my hand when I tried to see what was smoking.

                          The diagram I was using had three coils but I chose to use only coils A and B. The diagram was a little hard to follow so I may have hooked it up incorrectly.

                          Any suggestions?

                          Thanks
                          Poppy

                          Comment


                          • If the coil itself is too hot by touch, then this indicates that you have an enormous current flowing inside it. Check for short-circuit possibilities, maybe some wire inadvertently touching a transistor pin.
                            Increasing the base resistance might help if that is not the case.

                            Comment


                            • jeanna
                              (oh, I am posting mybedini progress on the no rotor bedini thread started by jonnydavro.
                              and, there is a little video too.)[/QUOTE]

                              Hi Jeanna and All
                              I'M ON PAGE 13 AND DIGESTING THE THREAD
                              It would help if when you post something like that, Would you provide a link?
                              Please. Tnks

                              PS To all Posters from Slayer007 on down.
                              Thanks bunch for your open policy and your work.

                              I have a bunch of 2.4" ferrite cores (4 in-hand & 10 on order) Largest I could find
                              Here's a Link
                              Ferrite Core - 2.40" diameter - eBay (item 280319640167 end time Jun-28-10 08:48:47 PDT)
                              I will be working with these to expand my Knowledge and hope to be able to add to this data base in the future.
                              I intend to install Earth Batteries on my Lot and see what I can do with them, tworde making my situation "Self Sufficient" haha
                              What an interesting threed - Like a Novel - Can't stay away
                              FrznWtr

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by Allcanadian View Post
                                @morpher44

                                It may help to clarify what negative resistance is I think, negative resistance by definition refers to a lack of resistance or non-linear resistance. A neon will first conduct in the glow discharge region when there is no visible light and offers a great deal of resistance. Next the excitation of the neon gas produces a rise in conduction due to ionization, this ionization reduces the resistance to conduction of an electric current. If the ionization increases due to extreme voltage a VAD, volt arc discharge will conduct large currents across the neon plates and produce a purple spark many have been talking about.
                                Basically the confusion over negative resistance started because of ohms law---"Ohm's law states that the current through a conductor between two points is directly proportional to the potential difference or voltage across the two points". This simplistic rule does not take into account the attributes of what constitutes a "conductor", in a neon bulb the voltage can rise to the threshold voltage at which point voltage drops and current rises as it rapidly conducts, this is not negative resistance it is non-linear conduction. "Negative" refers to a negative condition, the opposite condition to resistance is acceleration, can you have an accelerating resistance? It is like saying left is less right or the ball was falling upward, it is non-sensical. I will apologise in advance for the criticism but this wacky term has been driving me crazy every time I see it, I am not sure why engineers have to make up so many non-sensical terms to explain things which are really quite simple.
                                Regards
                                AC
                                Hi AC
                                Not to tweak your toes here.
                                My deff (Loosely) of neg resistor has to do with the opposite of what resistance dose in the main stream Electronics world.
                                Resistance - "It eats Power" or limits the flow of - so to speak.
                                Neg resistance ""Adds Power or allows Power flow. Whair from? Same place the Quarks come from and return to, where ever that is. haha
                                FrznWtr

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