CloudSeeder's Gravity Wheel on Fire

[CloudSeeder]

@All: The 6-spoke wheel is completed all but for adding the sliding weights.

[protecheqp]

@All: The 6-spoke wheel is completed all but for adding the sliding weights.

hope you can post picture soon good luck

[CloudSeeder]

next Hammer Cam => horizontal slot at the top of the main vertical slide slot

@protecheqp: yep, picture in the pipeline. Tuesday at the latest. Trying to decide right now how long to make the sliding rods and also, I had a really good idea for making a guide wire from one spoke over to the spoke in front of it, allowing me to use a curved rod. Whew.

Also last night I had a really MAJOR improvement come to me for the next Hammer Cam... a horizontal slot (at the top of the main vertical slide slot) that prevents the weight from dropping immediately (prematurely) til the slot clears. Hammer down man!

[protecheqp]

cool wish i had some time to do more on my thiny

[CloudSeeder]

@protecheqp: Well, when I finish sometime I'll see about working on YOURS then if ya want. I'm ready for something different already. Stealth has been working on his corkscrew thing for a year but he works a lot.

Yours reminds me somewhat of a fencepost conveyor I worked at a fence-making place that made furnace housings and different punch press stuff. The hangar would drag the finished posts through a trough of green paint and they would circle the factory floor to dry.

[CloudSeeder]

Slide tubes, check. Rods with weights and stop nuts in place, check.

Slide tubes, check. Rods with weights and stop nuts in place, check. Spins real good, check, except oops => cut the rods too short. Howsomever, in making a possible correction to the too-short rods I hit upon a new Killer-Level Secret Weapon => instead of using static position weights, or even sliding static position weights, hehehe => use a bar with a hole in each end that does a 90 degree spin-flip sideways to the wheel's spin direction. Looks like all I need is longer rod that will reach out from the ends of the spokes out beyond straightline upright (vertical) to reach the weight out past the centerline vertical of the device.

This is still basically the Pelican design but adding a pendulum swing also (Yo, Peter L.), so I may not need to make the enhanced Hammer Cam.... but I do have to find a rod supplier besides the hardware stores. They're marking the rods too high $$$$ and they ran out of the ones I need anyway.

This is looking exceptional today. But for cutting up
the rod supply too short I think it would be spinning now.

[CloudSeeder]

April 19 2010 >>> Pelican + Hammer Cam + Pendulum + Bicycle Wheel~Tubes

Slide tubes, check. Rods with weights and stop nuts in place, check. Spins real good, check, except oops => cut the rods too short. Howsomever, in making a possible correction to the too-short rods I hit upon a new Killer-Level Secret Weapon => instead of using static position weights, or even sliding static position weights, hehehe => use a bar with a hole in each end that does a 90 degree spin-flip sideways to the wheel's spin direction. Looks like all I need is longer rod that will reach out from the ends of the spokes out beyond straightline upright (vertical) to reach the weight out past the centerline vertical of the device.

This is still basically the Pelican design but adding a pendulum swing also (Yo, Peter L.), so I may not need to make the enhanced Hammer Cam.... but I do have to find a rod supplier besides the hardware stores. They're marking the rods too high $$$$ and they ran out of the ones I need anyway.

This is looking exceptional today. But for cutting up
the rod supply too short I think it would be spinning now.

Hold the phone & stop the presses. What all that quoted above means ~condensed down proper~ is that on April 19 2010 #1 the earlier Pelican design has been #2 combined with the Hammer Cam sliding rod tricks using #3 the bicycle wheel+tubes design borrowed from Chas. Campbell of Australia yet still #4 managing to swing in the well-oiled pendulum tricks favored by Peter Lindemann.

WOW,
WE'VE GONE TO PLAID
INTERNATIONAL AND NATIONAL
from Washington to Virginia to AU I reckon so
hehe had to tap Clint Eastwood for that one thanks

....

[CloudSeeder]

Overly Optimistic on the Pictures by Tuesday

@protecheqp: I've got ta visit a friend tomorrow has cancer not expected to make it much longer, so the pictures will be a little later than I was thinking. The spokes though, they're 24 inch long light weight Poplar from Lowe's $1.00 apiece! 1/4inch thick, 1 1/2 inch wide.

I cut the rods at 6 inch lengths and they needed to be more like 9-10 inches. But there's a distributor over near my friend's place that probably sells them cheaper than the hardware so I'll catch both in one trip tomorrow. My clunker goes through gasoline...

[CloudSeeder]

@protecheqp: The spokes 24 inch long light weight Poplar from Lowe's $1.00 apiece! 1/4 inch thick 1 1/2 inch wide.

I found the place with the threaded rods. I got a whopping good price on 200 lock washers, 200 nuts and 6 3-feet long threaded rods => enough supplies to last me this time, no more excursions. Total Cost $15, enough to do 5 more wheels I reckon (the hammer cam triple halves - 120 degree offset design).

[CloudSeeder]

@All: A combined picture of the spoke wheel progress... shown as spin direction being clockwise rt side insert counter-clockwise.

It does real well but the other 3 spokes not having the sliding rods represents three dead-energy zones.

Including the rods sticking out of the spoke area it needs 28 inches so I raised an extra-on-the-uprights platform, keeping the lower one for smaller wheels yet to build.

The "pendulums" (4 inches long) were taken off but they were positioned at the long end of the sliding rods. Unfortunately I may not be able to use them because they go into their flop around too early before reaching and passing top dead center. I think after adding three more tubes-&-rods it will spin without the pendulums ANYWAY.

[CloudSeeder]

I think after adding three more tubes-&-rods it will spin without the pendulums ANYWAY.

I like having pendulums swinging from a sideways position ((not swinging in the wheel's same plane)). I will keep looking for places to add them while working the other spokes.

Perhaps with the picture you can "see" what I meant better, that when the rods slide they need to slide over into the next rod's "area", an overlap, an overlap of Motion that begins a pre-emptive adding-to before the previous energy gained has stopped, for a cumulative Motion-adding method.

But the tube "angle of attack" may not be angled toward the axle enough. Doing so will increase rod sliding speed (and resulting impact). Since the Super-glue Gel has made these 3 permanent I think I'll saw off the ends, angle them more and bolt-attach. MUCH less time & work.

[CloudSeeder]

... an overlap of Motion that begins a pre-emptive adding-to before the previous energy gained has stopped, for a cumulative Motion-adding method.

In short, such a method is like tap tap tapping a hula hoop to keep it rolling.

[CloudSeeder]

Re-Positioning of Spoke Ends (and Sliding Rod~Weights)

So,

I can cut the ends off
move in an inch overlap,
drill one hole with one bolt
and be able to do what I wanted to do at first => make the rods where I could change the angle.

[CloudSeeder]

First, change the three spokes!

So I'll saw off the spoke ends and try different angles FIRST, to make sure 3 spokes with weights absolutely cannot work. Eliminate that possibility first. Doesn't work, do the other 3.

... which of course includes trying different rod length (stroke) settings and adding a weight on the ends.

[CloudSeeder]

Flexible Nylon Braid-Rope, with rubber grips (Protecheqp possible solutions)

@protecheqp: About the only reason I see why your triangle design system wouldn't work would be all the moving parts and the cumulative friction. Maybe if you got away from using metal for the conveyor system... substitute in some of that super strong nylon rope that flexes and bends. I think you could get it to work. The nylon is very lightweight, like they make the tow ropes and boating ropes from. It's real tough too so it would run for a decade before wearing out, seems like.

You could make it as a double rope, parallel with crosspieces like a ladder and the weights attached to the "rungs". The "rope" could be round, or it could be a braid. It would still be flexible but it would bring more surface to the drums. Your system would need that to have enough grip [needed to turn the generator]. In fact, you could have the braids spotted with spots of grip feet (rubber, like they use on hospital socks for patients).

edit: You might want to start thinking along the lines of longer drums and more than one line of weights; instead staggering smaller weights. Just a thought. The weights you have are so long that when they go into the drum to flip they're sticking out into the air too far => a negative leverage force. Tell ya what, you could make them shorter by having one end telescope inside the other... but the trick there would be preventing it from sliding out as it goes around THEN popping loose after the flip! If you could do THAT you could double the force.

Yeah. I know how you could do that I think. ha HA. Let's say ya make the weights as a rectangle shape. So the side to the back has a catch on the inside, so when it flips the catch holds it from telescoping out, but when it flips the rectangle has to have a little play in it and drops off the catch (a little ledge actually).

Hmm. But then you have a problem => pushing the telescoped piece back up on the catch eh? OK, so when the weights are coming across at the bottom, between drums, there would need to be a roller or something. There wouldn't be any resistance to raising the bottom scoped piece back up onto the catch, resetting it.
....