High Voltage from Thin Air?

[amigo]

@amigo
In the power path how? Can you draw it up? I see no need for a diode, the filters with the ferrite's and capacitors remove any RF going back into the supply via the power lines, yet this does not exclude coupling should the PSU be in close proximity to the exciter.

No, I'm not going to go back to ou.com and search for the link, I do not have that time.

@DrStiffler,

This circuit for example, D1

http://www.energeticforum.com/attach...air-bchg01.jpg

I noticed that with D1 connected, better results are achieved without the filter. It seems that the power is also feeding back to the source (the L2 back kicks) but they are stopped by D1 so there's no additional resistance in the path.

Granted, I am using a choke for L2 so that could also be the case, I will run tests with an air coil as well to confirm.

I also noticed an increased current usage with the filter connected (no diode).

Thanks.

[amigo]

I had time to look in OU.com.
I found this post from Dr Stiffler about how to protect LEDs from burning out:

Quote:
"CAUTION! Every one should use care with these circuits, they can bite and STILL will for no reason burn out significant numbers of LEDS. When using filter caps across the Plug, never remove or add or break the series chain until you have carefully removed the capacitor and discharged it. Other wise bye, bye LEDS."
End quote.

Selfrunning cold electricity circuit from Dr.Stiffler
(reply 827, page 83)

MDG

Thanks for finding that bit.

Though we are not using capacitors anymore across the AV plug, though I still wonder if there is an impact on the LEDs from the plug that would make them not last.

[sucahyo]

@sucahyo
You are mis-reading the diagram. The LED's are all in series from the last one shown with 'exit' arrow and return to complete circuit to the arrow tail. This is a normal floating string of LED's driven from AV plug composed of 1N4148's.
In the configuration (no ground or antenna) are used. Although a parasitic backing plate can be used for additional energy. Place two series 1N4148's in reverse polarity at the plug to help protect the string.

I see, thanks for the info. The diode is meant to reduce the power then.

Amigo post above make me convince that diode may have significant effect on reducing power.

[ashtweth]

@All
Should some one compile a reference (in any form) of my public information, please follow "All", stated and "Implied" exclusive rights. All such productions must state that the work is not in anyway approved by me, is or may not be accurate, and of course can not be sold or exchanged for value.

Because I do have papers and publications, this must be done carefully.

Hi Doc, MDG and All.

Sure thing Doc, every thing we publish always has all credits/rights and open source info on them . We have had a few people email about the circuit and there is a lot of info test data done now from all the open source engineers, but so many pages to go through and its very hard to find a simple circuit so i guess this PDF with all rights and credits will help more replicators find and understand it

Its a big job to collect all the pages will send across to you for your approval when done.

Ash

[DrStiffler]

I see, thanks for the info. The diode is meant to reduce the power then.

Amigo post above make me convince that diode may have significant effect on reducing power.

@sucahyo
Many replicators have tried and state that they have determined that with the LED's the 1N4148's are not needed, maybe for their circuit but not for mine. The AV Plug must be present before the LED's. So what (power) are you talking about its not really clear what you and @amigo are talking about, Input Energy Reduction? or Output Energy Reduction? You need to measure both to determine if an advantage is present of not.

If you only look at input and see an increase, you need to know the corresponding output increase/decrease in order to have any meaning.

With a LED string the most efficient and reliable way is light output measurement with a fairly decent meter. I will have a paper by next week on the net that shows how that was done in the early work and still applies to the light measurement today.

You must realize that if anything changes in the output, you must re-tune. A change of as little as 1/2MHz can have a great effect.

[amigo]

@sucahyo
Many replicators have tried and state that they have determined that with the LED's the 1N4148's are not needed, maybe for their circuit but not for mine. The AV Plug must be present before the LED's. So what (power) are you talking about its not really clear what you and @amigo are talking about, Input Energy Reduction? or Output Energy Reduction? You need to measure both to determine if an advantage is present of not.

If you only look at input and see an increase, you need to know the corresponding output increase/decrease in order to have any meaning.

With a LED string the most efficient and reliable way is light output measurement with a fairly decent meter. I will have a paper by next week on the net that shows how that was done in the early work and still applies to the light measurement today.

You must realize that if anything changes in the output, you must re-tune. A change of as little as 1/2MHz can have a great effect.

HI Doc,

I agree on all points but from my own experimentation I am lead to believe that there is a power surge back to the input, causing, or more precisely, impeding the unidirectional flow of current.

I do not know what kind of energy is surging back to the input but it seems that there is definitely something going on. Especially seeing that slayer007 is able to light LEDs on his battery, regardless of the polarity...

The D1 in my case appears to act as a barrier, preventing that from happening, at a cost of a few additional miliamps and re-tunning to a new frequency. It probably does not prevent all of the leakage but I'm not even sure what kind of energy we are dealing with to begin with.

But, the gain I can see, at least from visual inspection, is much greater. Looking at the light output of the LEDs they do appear brighter.

Yes, we need to have a method of measuring light output and so any details you can provide us on that would be welcome.

[sucahyo]

@sucahyo
Many replicators have tried and state that they have determined that with the LED's the 1N4148's are not needed, maybe for their circuit but not for mine. The AV Plug must be present before the LED's.

Ok. I just wondering if it is viable to make a circuit without diode, since I currently have opinion that silicon diode may act as a resistor for ZPE device.

I still don't know how to differentiate input and output in this kind of device. I may think that I use my antenna to transmit energy to light up nearby neon bulb, but who knows it may act as input which gather energy from another place to light up that bulb too. It is possible that adding antenna to radiant charger may increase it's charging capability.

[Jules Tresor]

Hello,
at last I get to start again my experiments with the SEC of Dr. Stiffler I couldn't wait to be back to my country first, after viewing Dr Stiffler, Lidmotor, Slayer007 and Wavefront101 latest videos !!

Now I just want to give my first results before experimenting deeper.

While waiting for my 6 different kind of MPSA06 ordered at Mouser (and some small supercaps), and traveling half the world just for me , I decided to try the circuit with local bought not branded 2N2222 and KSP06-G12.

To my surprise I was able to light nicely a 6W Fluo Tube on the first trial. and LED strings with AV plugs.

A 2.3 Volts, 4.7 Farad supercap charges very slowly on an AV plug with a small wire 'antenna'; something like 0.01 Volt per 2 minutes So Lidmotor idea to get it charged through a JT type circuit looks great !!! It seems to increase the power obtained ...


The specs for that first setup:
- transistors 2N2222 and many other MPSA06 (On-Semi and Fairchild)
- input 20V from wall adapter
- around 35 mA

- L1 (tunable) is 20 turns #24 gauge around plastic pipe with 6mm diameter ferrite rod inside for tuning

- L2 is 20 turns #24 gauge wire cliped and made loosely around a 15mm diameter tube (I tried larger diameter for that coil, same turns, but results were lower) (I tried 25 turns and get lower results also)

- L3 is 100 turns #24 gauge wire around 15mm diameter PVC water pipe
(I tried 65 turns and get lower results, 130 turns and get lower results)

- L4 is 165 turns #24 gauge wire around 15mm diameter PVC water pipe
(I tried shorter and longer coils but get lower results on this setup)

## This remarks are about the setup shown on the attached pics.
I have no oscilloscope to see any difference between the different transistors.

# Results get a bit brighter than 2N2222 with the MPSA06 (may be 20%), On-Semi giving slightly better results than Fairchild ones.

# If I touch the end of the 6W tube to one leg of the neo bulb, the current drops a bit and the tube is a bit brighter.

# If I connect wire out of L4 to end of 6W FL tube, it gets a bit brighter

# I burnt a few transistor while trying to connect/disconnect coils or other parts without cutting power. I f I off the power before changing parts, I don't have this problem.

That's it for know. I'm very glad to have it working, at least giving me nice light for now Thanks Dr Stiffler for sharing your circuit we us

I can clearly feel the vibration on the back of my hands while moving around the circuit.
Interference with TV (handphone TV) has less than 1 foot radius with the 2N2222 (not try yet with other transistors)

Thanks everybody for sharing and giving us a chance to replicate your works.

MDG

[slayer007]

Hello,
at last I get to start again my experiments with the SEC of Dr. Stiffler I couldn't wait to be back to my country first, after viewing Dr Stiffler, Lidmotor, Slayer007 and Wavefront101 latest videos !!

Now I just want to give my first results before experimenting deeper.

While waiting for my 6 different kind of MPSA06 ordered at Mouser (and some small supercaps), and traveling half the world just for me , I decided to try the circuit with local bought not branded 2N2222 and KSP06-G12.

To my surprise I was able to light nicely a 6W Fluo Tube on the first trial. and LED strings with AV plugs.

A 2.3 Volts, 4.7 Farad supercap charges very slowly on an AV plug with a small wire 'antenna'; something like 0.01 Volt per 2 minutes So Lidmotor idea to get it charged through a JT type circuit looks great !!! It seems to increase the power obtained ...


The specs for that first setup:
- transistors 2N2222 and many other MPSA06 (On-Semi and Fairchild)
- input 20V from wall adapter
- around 35 mA

- L1 (tunable) is 20 turns #24 gauge around plastic pipe with 6mm diameter ferrite rod inside for tuning

- L2 is 20 turns #24 gauge wire cliped and made loosely around a 15mm diameter tube (I tried larger diameter for that coil, same turns, but results were lower) (I tried 25 turns and get lower results also)

- L3 is 100 turns #24 gauge wire around 15mm diameter PVC water pipe
(I tried 65 turns and get lower results, 130 turns and get lower results)

- L4 is 165 turns #24 gauge wire around 15mm diameter PVC water pipe
(I tried shorter and longer coils but get lower results on this setup)

## This remarks are about the setup shown on the attached pics.
I have no oscilloscope to see any difference between the different transistors.

# Results get a bit brighter than 2N2222 with the MPSA06 (may be 20%), On-Semi giving slightly better results than Fairchild ones.

# If I touch the end of the 6W tube to one leg of the neo bulb, the current drops a bit and the tube is a bit brighter.

# If I connect wire out of L4 to end of 6W FL tube, it gets a bit brighter

# I burnt a few transistor while trying to connect/disconnect coils or other parts without cutting power. I f I off the power before changing parts, I don't have this problem.

That's it for know. I'm very glad to have it working, at least giving me nice light for now Thanks Dr Stiffler for sharing your circuit we us

I can clearly feel the vibration on the back of my hands while moving around the circuit.
Interference with TV (handphone TV) has less than 1 foot radius with the 2N2222 (not try yet with other transistors)

Thanks everybody for sharing and giving us a chance to replicate your works.

MDG

It looks like your having very good results.
Thanks for sharing your results.

If you was running it off a battery you could try running the AV plug off one of the battery post.
I'm getting alot of power going back to my battery enought to recharge another battery or fill a capacitor.

I havent tried it off a power supply but it seems like it would work the same.

[Jules Tresor]

Hello everyone,
I continue experimenting with a 2N2222 on my SEC replication, because it's interesting to see how far it can go, no ?
Today I should start investigating the large 'broadcasting' setups; ping-pong ball and loops of wire ... Now only AV plugs and extremities of L3 and L4 are 'hot'. I want to have a larger 'hot' area.

Increasing L3 and L4 coils, I'm now able to light a 8W + a 10W Fluo Tubes + a few LED wireless (I can add more LED but don't have enough yet) :0)
It made me very happy Tubes are lighted fully, without seeing the wave patterns.

It runs since yesterday (already 15 hours) without slightest problem, very steady setup. I found the sweet spot where I have much brightness for less current, and where I can wave the hand around the circuit without slightest variation in lightning.

L3 (out of transistor) is now 165 turns #24 gauge.
L4 (out of AV plug) is now 200 turns #24 gauge.

I'm sure it's a few watts of light, from 0.7W input (20V x 35mA)
The room is lit like if there was a large TV screen running in.

# right of picture you can see the list of MPSA06 I tried with the same results as with the 2N2222 ... with small Fluo Tubes as load I can see a bit more brightness using On-semi MPSA06s (may be +20%), but with the 2 bigger tubes (10W+8W), I can't see much difference anymore ... of course I have mow equipment here to measure anything seriously.

# left of picture, the red LED is connected to a supercap (2.7V 4.7F) with an Av plug. The LED is normally bright and the supercap keeps a voltage. Starting at 1.9V 12 hours ago, it shows now 1.6V.
My estimate is that the AV plug can collect around 15-20mA to light the LED.
I would need may be 20 of them to run my SEC in a loop ...

It's an evidence that this circuit is the winner of the decade and I thank to much Dr Stiffler for sharing it with us. (Dr. please don't go anymore on OU.com, you know they drive you nuts everytime, it's full of unrespectfull guys there)

@ Thanks Slayer for the tips, I saw that on your video ! 100 V in a few seconds, very good. How to collect that energy ? I you put a load on it, how much voltage you can keep ?
I will also try to charge a 9V battery. If I can double the voltage of a 9V battery I can use it to supply the SEC's power. It's an easy and cheap power supply, and it could be easier to recharge at the same time...
I will also look for small solar panels like Lidmotor is using, because I get a lot of free light with my SEC

Thanks everyone for sharing,
God blessings,
MDG

[Jules Tresor]

Hello,
Just to tell that I found my circuit working much better, more power and much easier to tune, with the kind of small neon bulb with a resistor/choke of one of its leg. (I don't know if it's a choke or a resistor, sorry)

Whatever on which side is the resistor/choke connected on the AV plug, the power out of the SEC is the same. See picture below.
The bigger standard one gives me lot of troubles to tune the SEC ...

With both I can't light both sides of the bulb.
Also they are not very intense like I can see on others pictures. What to do to increase their brightness ?

I still working with the 2N2222, and I got same results with two other kind/brand of 2N2222 I just bought.

I think I have the SEC effects, high voltage for neon bulbs and fluo tubes, energy at distance with AV plugs picking up energy for LEDs and capacitors ... so it seems that 2N2222 is working for me

My supercapacitor (2.7V, 4.7F) keeps a steady 1.62V charge (wireless) while lighting the red LED (it's no more going down in voltage)
Thanks for sharing,
MDG

[Lidmotor]

SEC----wirless energy transmission

@Everyone--- I have been sidetracked working on a strange Bedini SSG. It is run with one "egg" shaped magnet spinning on end. Jonny Davro's thread: "One magnet no bearing Bedini" is where the work is being done. It can run on very low power so I have been tying to get the SEC to run it wirelessly. I have been having pretty good luck with it but it is still not able to run 100% off the SEC wirelessly.

@Steverafreter---I have been following your work and surprised to see that you got a 2n2222 to work. My cheap Radio Shack ones didn't work. By accident I found that my 500mA 12v wall outlet charger would run my SEC without a battery in the middle. The unloaded output of the little "wall wart" is 21volts just like my solar panel and the SEC really likes that. I am running the SEC on it without the filter at the front of the circuit and it seem to do fine. I found that if you up the voltage then EVERYTHING comes on much brighter encluding the neon. Just like you, I can run it for hours now as long as I have a heat sink on the transistor.

@ Dr. Stiffler---I still don't understand what is going on here but I am enjoying the ride. Thanks again for sharing.

Here is the video of my latest work with SEC wireless energy transmission and trying to get it to run the Bedini.

YouTube - SEC------ Wireless Energy Transmission

Lidmotor

[amigo]

Lidmotor,

If you have seen the early Dr.Stiffler videos, he used two roasting pans to cage his circuit in. Why don't you give that a try in your SEC setup, and see what happens...

Just remember to ground the pans.

[MGC]

Another SEC Replication

Thank you stephenafreter for posting the pictures and specs, very helpful.

Some info for the pictures below :
I found some 3/8" tubing and wrapped a series of coils for L3 the one that worked best was 5" , about 200 turns and 61uH. Input is 12v battery @ 70ma. L1 is about 46uH and L2 about 6uH.

L3 is connected to a copper clad circuit board, there are two 4w and one 8w resting on or near the board. The 14w FL is between the broiler pan and L3.

The metal plate on the left is a copper pipe support I found at the hardware store and is connected to a heavy duty metal shelf that sits on the garage floor. This is my "earth ground".

A neon bulb will light from the copper plate, broiler pan and both battery terminals. A small loop of welding rod and some diodes will light an LED from almost 4 feet away.



Thank you,
Mike

[Jules Tresor]

Hello,

@ MGC,
I'm impressed by the number of Tubes you can light at the same time !
Is it because of your large alu plate, or because of the ground wire ?
I'm going to try to make a large 'capacitor' like yours (the alu plate + the copper plate), but with 2 sheets of alu foil. it might be very important

I found the quantity of energy kind of limited, because bringing a load will take the energy of another one. Can't find real broadcasting without interference from other loads yet.

Still working with 2N2222, burnt 3 only in 36 hours :0)

I found using alu ball or metal pipe for broadcasting allows for a larger field (I can bring a lit tube far from the hot spot), but still the amount of energy available seems to be the same ?!?
Must be careful with this broadcasting elements, because they seem to bring the ampere much higher, sometimes in the 200mA range!!

@ Lidmotor,
Great new video as usual
When you get the 2 LEDs on, those sitting on the chair with the antenna, do you see an increase in ampere consumption ?
I find sometime, or at certain places on the circuit, that a new added load, even wireless AV plug + 3 LEDs, will increase or decrease amperage (most of the time added load will increase amps).

Lid, you are right, 20 volts give more light I was thinking of a voltage doubler on a 9V battery that could give in the 18Volts; should be good enough ?!? A battery should be easier to 'recharge' from the SEC

I'm wondering what Dr Stiffler tricks are to decrease much the amperage ? He said for a few circuits that he was using around 10mA

I'm trying different sizes of L1 (tunable) and L2 to see how it affects the amperage.
Dr is using a standard ferrite rod in his L1, looks like a 6mm diameter one (like the one I'm using) so it might not be the crucial point.
So the trick might be in his L2 ... I saw some look quite big (lots of winding, small diameter) on some of his latest videos ???

Good luck all,
MDG

The picture: 1 Watt in (20V x 50mA), no AV plug, small SS pipe directly connected from L3 (130 turns #24 wire). 1 tube 10 W + 1 tube 6 W.
I cleaned my place and decided to start simple and going step by step, trying to understand how it works Anyway I have already a kind of very efficient lighting device, no ?