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Dr. Stiffler has a lot more components in his circuit then the couple in your diagram. I'm looking for a complete schematic with parts list so I can reporduce what Dr. Stiffler did in his last video.
Hello,
As far as I understand, Dr Stiffler manages to excite the transistor he uses into a special kind of oscillation.
I think it is also the Doc's view that this special oscillation is the basis for all the effects the SEC circuit produces.
The Doc has stated several times, that he did not find an other transistor which he can reliably force into the required kind of oscillation.
This always seemed a pity to me, as it makes "us" dependent on that particular transistor.
My question to the Doc and the other experimenters:
Do you think that the oscillation of Aaron's mosfet is the same type of oscillation that is required for the SEC and would it be possible to achieve SEC-effects (=spatial coherence) with a mosfet being excited as shown in Aaron's vids?
Here is the circuit used in the last video, parts list soon as I'm just putting the LEM detector in a box today. Once done with the detector I'll gather the parts and coil list.
Busy building a LEM wave detector. Once I transfer it from the proto-board to a circuit board I will gather all the info for the new Exciter design.
Here are my requirements for confirmation;
You will need a good light meter that has an accuracy of better than 5% for the White LED spectral output. The comparison is made from a ref. DC to the Receiver LED's in operation.
You can use a good filter and a 1 ohm or 0.1 ohm Carbon composition resistor as I describe in my Measurements Document, BUT, no clip leads or sloppy wiring.
If you are not going to do it right so Apples are Apples and Oranges are Oranges, then forget it and do not waste your and my time on trying it.
To show the CEC>1 it has to be done right, period. You will have to use my exact spec's, no (my coils will work just as good), its my way or don't do it.
Anyway soon, I want to finish the detector as it is a great help in the work.
Doc I really agree with you on this one. If a replicator deviates from a specific design and then claims that "yes" it works or "no" it doesn't, then the results mean nothing. Although this will limit the number of people who will step up to this test, it is really necessary.
Those who build this to non-specs and get success should just keep it to themselves. It won't mean anything to anyone. Those who build it wrong, it doesn't work, and say anything should be shown the door. Idle comments by non-builders are most unwelcome at this thread right now. Replicating the Doc's work just once will mean alot if it is truely done right. I would imagine that many people are quietly watching this.
Doc I really agree with you on this one. If a replicator deviates from a specific design and then claims that "yes" it works or "no" it doesn't, then the results mean nothing. Although this will limit the number of people who will step up to this test, it is really necessary.
Those who build this to non-specs and get success should just keep it to themselves. It won't mean anything to anyone. Those who build it wrong, it doesn't work, and say anything should be shown the door. Idle comments by non-builders are most unwelcome at this thread right now. Replicating the Doc's work just once will mean alot if it is truely done right. I would imagine that many people are quietly watching this.
Just my thoughts.
Lidmotor
@Lidmotor
"Well Stated"
I had somewhat reached the end of the line on trying to teach, it just has not worked out and many of us know why.
Anyway I do indeed agree and am going to conduct this just as you stated. Replicate 100% or save your money and time. The old Ham Shack business of dig into the junk box and pull some similar parts will not work here. Build as I speck, spend the small amount of money (not very damn much) then call me a great guy or a real screw up.
As can be seen in the circuit, this system is based on phase and impedance. If you skimp or splurge it just will not work.
I see no reason why the qualified will not be able to duplicate in a few hours. The time spend is in the coils. Note to the EE's, L4 has at least 3X energy field of L3 when 12m away from the main circuit. Also there is communications from L3 and L4 via the top hats to complete a circuit. In the process gain is realized.
Three things are special in the sense that they may be hard to find, although they are not uncommon. So if you are going to do a rep of my last video, here are three things you will need from the parts list.
*I assume you already have some of the Al and Cu Tape we have been using for some time now, if not, the Al tape can come from Home Depot, it is A/C Duct Sealing Tape. The Cu Tape comes from a Hobby Store. If you are unclear go back thru the thread and see where it was talked about.
The Top Hats. They are Stainless Condiment Cups and I purchased at Wal-Mart. To the best of my knowledge they only have one size and they are 2-1/4 X 1-3/4. You need (4) four of them and I think they come six to a pack.
I gave the specs, but if you don't know how to figure it;
Input 22.5V @ 0.030Amp = 675mW
Receiver has 48 LED's each at 3.1V connected in series = 148.8V at receiver.
The receiver is passing 22.5mA through the LED's so 148.8 * 0.0225 = 3.348W
Hi DOC,
sounds impressive,
but how do you measure the 22.5mA through the LEDs ?
I don´t see any capacitor in your AV plug, so the LEDs have
very many pulses in them.
I don´t trust any measurements done via pulsed currents or
high frequency AC components, so
better use a big cap at the output AV plug and several LC lowplassfilters
a few meters away, so you can measure pure DC Wattage output.
Maybe you did it already this way, so I excuse bringing this up,
but you did not state, how you exactly measured it.
Hi DOC,
sounds impressive,
but how do you measure the 22.5mA through the LEDs ?
I don´t see any capacitor in your AV plug, so the LEDs have
very many pulses in them.
I don´t trust any measurements done via pulsed currents or
high frequency AC components, so
better use a big cap at the output AV plug and several LC lowplassfilters
a few meters away, so you can measure pure DC Wattage output.
Maybe you did it already this way, so I excuse bringing this up,
but you did not state, how you exactly measured it.
Many thanks and keep up your great work.
Regards, Stefan.
@hartiberlin
I can only assume you have not read my Measurements Document where a full explanation is given on how to take the measurements when using LED's like shown in the demo.
This business of hanging a cap on the ouput side of the AV Plug is in my mind a bogus concept.
Thanks Doc for the well written instructions. How many turns around the bobbin on L2? I will need to order a few of the parts so it will take me a week or so to gather the materials together.
Is there a particular light meter that you could recommend that won't break the bank? Thanks ahead of time.
Thanks Doc for the well written instructions. How many turns around the bobbin on L2? I will need to order a few of the parts so it will take me a week or so to gather the materials together.
Is there a particular light meter that you could recommend that won't break the bank? Thanks ahead of time.
@mudwump
I really have no idea on number of turns, these coils were wound a year or so ago. I know it is less than 8' of wire and a little trial and error with an LC meter will get you there.
The Light meter is a (Confirmation) tool if one want to compare Lumen output with a DC reference or one is unable to measure the current in the LED string as shown in my measurements document.
A Light meter is no cheap so I would try the conventional method first.
I use a Lutron LX-1108, with this meter you would need to be able to cross calculate Lumen/Lux.
Here is the circuit used in the last video, parts list soon as I'm just putting the LEM detector in a box today. Once done with the detector I'll gather the parts and coil list.
Doc, would you please verify your power supply + and - feeds on the diagram. Secondly, I had understood that the single wire was also tied into earth ground, is this correct?
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