High Voltage from Thin Air?

[amigo]

Hey gang,

I took a hiatus away from the forum and all matters related just to clear my mind.

I see there have been developments in the mean time. I'm also wondering did anyone piss-off Doc Stiffler again, as his site is down and his domains are parked?

[DrStiffler]

Hey gang,

I took a hiatus away from the forum and all matters related just to clear my mind.

I see there have been developments in the mean time. I'm also wondering did anyone piss-off Doc Stiffler again, as his site is down and his domains are parked?

@amigo
No, no one 'pissed' me off. It makes no logical sense to keep a site going when you get 20-30 hits a month. If no one has any greater interest than that, then its silly to waste time running it.

[slayer007]

Lol, I must account for 25 of them hits a month then.

To bad Dr Stiffler I checked your site quite often just to see if you had anything new on the site.

Congratulation on your latest circuit.

I'm still waiting for a few parts before I can try to replicate it.

@ Lidmotor

Very nice video Lidmotor.

Your video is very encouraging.

[ABCStore]

Dr,

your robots.txt prevents web spiders from indexing of your site. It's a good idea to get rid of it and also add relevant meta keywords. I guarantee traffic will go ballistic.

ABC

[DrStiffler]

@ Dr Stiffler and All----I am slowly building and gathering parts and it is hard. I did test out my transmitter and receiver "towers" on a standard SEC and got a replication of the long distance power transmission lighting up LEDs. This is not a pure replication and the only reason that I am posting this is to encourage others to keep going. What I am seeing so far looks really good. The amount of light that I am getting out when the coils hit resonance is impressive.
Here is the video of my efforts so far:

YouTube - SEC one wire energy transmission--At a distance

Lidmotor

@Lidmotor
Very happy to see what you have done and may I suggest an approach to prevent a costly mistake (assuming you do not buy LED's 1K at a time). I would not suggest you increase the input voltage without the addition of additional LED's. Yo can pass through a resonance peak and wipe any number of them out, caution is in order there.

Again, Nice Work and Thank You for doing it.

[DrStiffler]

@ Dr Stiffler and All----I am slowly building and gathering parts and it is hard. I did test out my transmitter and receiver "towers" on a standard SEC and got a replication of the long distance power transmission lighting up LEDs. This is not a pure replication and the only reason that I am posting this is to encourage others to keep going. What I am seeing so far looks really good. The amount of light that I am getting out when the coils hit resonance is impressive.
Here is the video of my efforts so far:

YouTube - SEC one wire energy transmission--At a distance

Lidmotor

@Lidmotor

I just finished watching your video a couple more times and have a few more helpful comments.

The transistor is getting warm because the energy the system is cohering is not being full used at the receiver and its bouncing back to the transmitter and is dissipated in the transistor. The addition of LED's even though you raise the input voltage will aid in correction this problem. Think of it this way, say we assume a clean input from the battery and call it 12.6V and the current is a clean 0.025Amps, that give a little over 1/3W input. With the heat sink you have that should just be warm and not hot.

With batteries and not a line powered PSU, when you extend the line to the receiver you may indeed need to and an earth ground from the negative of the battery to said ground. Also I would suggest using the LP filter to isolate the circuit a bit from the battery, some strange things can happen this way.

On the power rails of my demo video circuit I have 3x 0.01uF at front, middle and end of the rail lines. At the input end I also have a 10uF @100V.

When you are using the filters your earth ground if required will come from the Exciter side of the rail and not the battery side.

[amigo]

@amigo
No, no one 'pissed' me off. It makes no logical sense to keep a site going when you get 20-30 hits a month. If no one has any greater interest than that, then its silly to waste time running it.

@Doc

I am glad you are still with us then.

I think it makes perfect sense to keep *any* site up that has information someone else might need or use. Do I need to lecture here about "free", or is everyone clear that energy is not the only thing that should be free - everything else has to be as well.

Should I offer you free hosting on my web server to keep your site up?

[DrStiffler]

@Doc

I am glad you are still with us then.

I think it makes perfect sense to keep *any* site up that has information someone else might need or use. Do I need to lecture here about "free", or is everyone clear that energy is not the only thing that should be free - everything else has to be as well.

Should I offer you free hosting on my web server to keep your site up?

@amigo
Its not a matter of where to park the site, its the return on the time needed to update and keep current the content.

I have barely enough time to document what I do so I can remember it and have it documented for some one else. I think now its far more effective to do a paper or document and make that availabe as opposed to a web site then documents and papers.

Thanks for the offer, yet the site is not coming back.

[ABCStore]

I continue to see some spooky effect of SEC15...

E.g. L3 connected to a short copper coupling, NOT connected to another coil, sitting next to it, connected to a long wire, connected to a 20W fluorescent.
Powered by 2 12v 7Ah batteries in series (25.5v) 75mA, high brightness.

Discovered by accident and coil windings and orientation are VERY important.

ABC

[Lidmotor]

Thanks for the help---I'm struggling to get things working right

@Lidmotor

I just finished watching your video a couple more times and have a few more helpful comments.

The transistor is getting warm because the energy the system is cohering is not being full used at the receiver and its bouncing back to the transmitter and is dissipated in the transistor. The addition of LED's even though you raise the input voltage will aid in correction this problem. Think of it this way, say we assume a clean input from the battery and call it 12.6V and the current is a clean 0.025Amps, that give a little over 1/3W input. With the heat sink you have that should just be warm and not hot.

With batteries and not a line powered PSU, when you extend the line to the receiver you may indeed need to and an earth ground from the negative of the battery to said ground. Also I would suggest using the LP filter to isolate the circuit a bit from the battery, some strange things can happen this way.

On the power rails of my demo video circuit I have 3x 0.01uF at front, middle and end of the rail lines. At the input end I also have a 10uF @100V.

When you are using the filters your earth ground if required will come from the Exciter side of the rail and not the battery side.

Thanks Doc,
I worked all day on the both the new circuit and the orignial SEC circuit. Your obsevations of my work and your advice help alot. I am very frustrated at myself for blindly trying things without really understanding what I am doing. I got the new circuit to run today but not the way it is supposed to. My cheap meters and lack of proper test equipment hinder me. I feel like I am trying to thread a needle without my glasses on. It is hit and miss. I did use the earth ground today on the new circuit and got it to make the LEDs come on very bright. Unfortunately where I connected it when that happened was perhaps all wrong. I attached it to the top hat of the transmitter. Why that worked is the mystery of the day. . I also order 100 more white LEDs today to complete the light panel and get it up to 48.

Lidmotor

[H2inICE]

Hello Dr. Stiffler

I have been following you for some time now Dr. Stiffler, the way you talk and explain make me understand that you know what you talk about.

I'm from Norway and have a hard time doing EXACT replication of your work so place bare with me brother....

Here's some pix I made, just some as I go

[img width=800 height=533]http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/7017/img15951949309.jpg[/img]

[img width=800 height=533]http://img19.imageshack.us/img19/4593/img15921309931.jpg[/img]

[img width=800 height=533]http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/3141/img15910959447.jpg[/img]

[img width=800 height=533]http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/1975/img15960584128.jpg[/img]

Got some options with transistors, here is one fitted with heat sink (can take 220degC)
[img width=800 height=533]http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/9650/img15931917120.jpg[/img]

Another one, just going to feel my way ahead.....
[img width=800 height=533]http://img34.imageshack.us/img34/6259/img15941933622.jpg[/img]

When I have the trim cap I can do some real test's, probably not before Monday, depending how fast I get stuff from Canada.
The rod material I use is PEAK, I do not recommend you do the same for material for the core, wood or pvc would do the same job, I got the PEAK for free, I'm sure it's not for free for most of you guys.....

That's all before I get my trim cap and can do live test's


Mr H2inICE

[amigo]

Hello Dr. Stiffler
...

....
Mr H2inICE

Hello and welcome aboard !

I must comment on something as it gave me a good chuckle.

How in the world do you find anything on your table with that mind boggling pattern on the table cloth over it?

[H2inICE]

He he it's not that bad...



Still have to wait for the trim cap tho


Mr H2inICE

[Lidmotor]

New circuit running----with earth ground at Batt (-)

@Dr. Stiffler & All. Success. I got the new circuit running yesterday by attaching an earth ground to the Battery (-). I also got it to work at 12 volts. It was running the 18 LEDs too bright at 24v and I was afraid that I would burn them out like you warned Doc. I tried several different variable capacitors and they all worked. Tuning to the exact frequency is touchy but doable. The transistor is running much cooler on this circuit than on the standard SEC but more testing is in order and adding LEDs should solve the problem like you said. The amp draw with the earth ground attached is 50 millamps or more to get the LEDs bright but that isn't to bad running on 12 volts. These numbers are looking good to me so far.
These little "Top Hat" towers are wonderful Doc. To clean them up abit I used a tiny amount of super glue (3 dots) and glued the top and bottom halves together. I then used thin brass tape (1/4") instead of the aluminum tape around the rim as a good connection. They look better and the performance is the same.
I am still getting very good results using the standard SEC circuit. The next thing that I need is the light meter and a very accurate low amp meter. Someone suggested that I graph the light output vs the amp draw and I think that is a very good idea.
If anyone else is building one of these all I can say is keep going and expect it not to work the first time out. Tuning is critical. Out of resonance and nothing happens but anger and frustration. When it starts working get your sunglasses out.

Lidmotor

[DrStiffler]

@Dr. Stiffler & All. Success. I got the new circuit running yesterday by attaching an earth ground to the Battery (-). I also got it to work at 12 volts. It was running the 18 LEDs too bright at 24v and I was afraid that I would burn them out like you warned Doc. I tried several different variable capacitors and they all worked. Tuning to the exact frequency is touchy but doable. The transistor is running much cooler on this circuit than on the standard SEC but more testing is in order and adding LEDs should solve the problem like you said. The amp draw with the earth ground attached is 50 millamps or more to get the LEDs bright but that isn't to bad running on 12 volts. These numbers are looking good to me so far.
These little "Top Hat" towers are wonderful Doc. To clean them up abit I used a tiny amount of super glue (3 dots) and glued the top and bottom halves together. I then used thin brass tape (1/4") instead of the aluminum tape around the rim as a good connection. They look better and the performance is the same.
I am still getting very good results using the standard SEC circuit. The next thing that I need is the light meter and a very accurate low amp meter. Someone suggested that I graph the light output vs the amp draw and I think that is a very good idea.
If anyone else is building one of these all I can say is keep going and expect it not to work the first time out. Tuning is critical. Out of resonance and nothing happens but anger and frustration. When it starts working get your sunglasses out.

Lidmotor

@Lidmotor
Great! I knew it would work with a bit of care and (twiking).

A number of people should have reps ready over the next week or so. Not all will post here although.

Once I have a number of reps and some numbers that match or are close to mine, the next step is to fully move to "Earth" ground and dump the wire. Then we will go truly wireless. But yo know me, no wine before its time, so to speak.

@All get mad or whatever, but I'm teaching here not just giving passing grades.............

"Lidmotor" would love to see your neat towers?

Dr.S.