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  • #31
    ok then...

    Hey it was only meant as a respectful comment Mathew. So since you have put it on other scooters what results did you get? Mind sharing the setup So I can rip it apart in my head lol.
    Remember that this setup comes stock at 2-12v battery packs in series.
    So this is what I got from the picture.
    5: 6 pole relays
    12: 10 amp diodes
    1: rectifyer bridge 20 amp (I think 40 but will have to check)
    1: Low voltage switch
    60 amp wires

    The switches don't make sense to me but maybe seeing it in a video might make it easier to understand.


    @stealth what would you recommend for a motor from them?
    Last edited by Jbignes5; 04-25-2009, 12:02 AM.

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    • #32
      OK heres the movies for the resonating relay. The movies is dark you may have to watch it fullscreen.

      I also added a schematic. You'll have to merge the 2 together.

      Cheers
      Matt
      Last edited by Matthew Jones; 08-09-2014, 09:55 PM.

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      • #33
        Anyone of the Davis PMM's. Only 12 volts and your choice of 1/3, 1/2, or 3/4 HP. Or if you want to burn the tires off, maybe a 1 Hp motor. These are strong PMM motors. Good Luck. Stealth

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        • #34
          @Jbignes5 The parts list looks good. But if that ismuch higher than 100 watt, you may have to gang up a few of those relays. TUrn the relay into a 3 pole in other words


          The best motor I have found for the money had to be stripped out of a portable electric mower or you can get the part here

          They range between 3.5 and 5 hp. They are pretty small, maybe 5.5 inch diameter.

          They retain current very well on a tesla switch. They are just attraction motors, they continuasly just pull in to the pole. Most DC motors do both push and pull and the energy coming out of the motor gets weird. The B&D motors can also handle up to a 48 volt real easy. I haven't tried above that.

          Cheers
          Matt
          Last edited by Matthew Jones; 04-25-2009, 12:32 PM.

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          • #35
            Now I understand...

            Thank you mathew for taking the time to show me that. so the self resonating relay is the timer circuit to run the tesla switch relays? Yeah well I believe the motor is a 250-300 watt motor. I will be getting it on the 28th so I'll know for sure. And I just found a site that has the exact same batteries for 19.00 a piece. I guess I'll get 4 of them then. So that will be 6 total.
            In the circuit you have shown I see each pair of batteries is on a relay. You also said something about getting tougher relays which I think I should do from the begining because I really don't want to go out and get more when I finally upgrade to a bigger motor. Which should be in about 1-2 months. I haven't figured out the size yet. The tough thing is the 1000 watt motors are half the price as the other ones from the mowers. Maybe I can find a dc motor that is used from a junk mower out here. I'll let you know how it goes.
            Mat could you show me the firing diagrams for each switch postion for the batteries from the circuit you provided to let me understand the switch setup better.
            Last edited by Jbignes5; 04-25-2009, 01:33 PM.

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            • #36
              If you look in the bottom left hand corner of the diagram you see which ones are by defualt on and off. Now look at the relays in the circiut.
              You see half the switch's are on by default and half are off. As you fire the relay it switch's, and you cannot short out the circiut.

              The best thing to do is buy one relay from radio shack and see how it works. Once you see it it will come together for ya.

              I want the link to those batteries at 19.00 a peice. But when you get 4 batteries set that up on the bench with the triggering.A 12 volt system is easy. Then you'll see it working. You can a load like small motor.

              Once your comfortable with that you got it beat. Looking at the schematic it gets confusing. When I started wiring them I just pulled one wire and marked it off in the schematic. Went on to the next.
              I can wire them in my sleep no matter how big.

              But what I am trying to get at is no matter how much I put up for you to follow nothing beets just doing it.

              Another thing you can wire is is a one way switch put 2 in series and 2 parrallel. Ground each side to each other. Put a Bridge rectifier between the 2 Positive poles of the battery and hook each pole to the AC side of the bridge. Then start looking at the schematic again.

              You'll understand it soon enough. The biggest trick you got is putting the stuff on that scooter. LOL

              Matt

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              • #37
                some sources of batteries

                You know I didn't bookmark the source damit!

                But here are some I have resourced.

                XLR 8R - Razor Electric Pack is for (2) 12V 8AH Batteries
                UB1270 - Universal 12V 7AH SLA Battery

                ANTOnline.com - Universal D5743 UNIVERSAL D5743 SEALED LEAD ACID BATTERIES (12V; 8 AH; .187 TAB TERMINALS; UB1280) <-14.06 per

                CSB 12V 8Ah High Rate Sealed Lead Acid Battery

                Just to name a few. These are for the single 12v batteries that I will put in pairs. I'm starting to see it in my head thank you for the explaination. Putting it on the scooter shouldn't be too tough. I think Either just in front of the seat bar on the deck or on the back fender, Both places will require a Custom box. In the begining while I test it out I'll just use wood but if it works out well I'll switch to fiberglass with heatsinks on the sides to pull heat out.
                The current model has a 250 watt motor. Is there a way to rewind it for a higher wattage? or would that just be a waste of time? I'm still looking for a used electric mower by the way per your advice.
                Hey I was reading somewhere that the batteries get conditioned thru this process. Have you seen battery life increase decrease or stay the same thru this switch. From the electrodyne tests they said the batteries ran for years with no wear at all. Those were car batteries i believe but all the same these are still lead acid ones just gel form.
                Also would adding big caps to this setup make it run any better?
                Last edited by Jbignes5; 04-26-2009, 01:20 PM.

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                • #38
                  Optima Yellow Top Marine Batteries....

                  The Optima Yellow Top Marine battery may fit or may be to big... not sure but it is very powerful....just a thought....

                  Optima Battery Optima Batteries Free Shipping! Best Service! Deep Cycle Batteries Yellow Blue Red Top Optimum

                  Have fun......

                  Tj

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                  • #39
                    ok got it.

                    Got the scooter this morning. Was suprised at the gift on my stairs lol.

                    Ok so for now what is planned is an extra 4 batteries and the tesla switch mod. Seems the batteries are not is parallel like I thought and the controller hooks to them individually. They also are 7ah batteries. Would getting 8ah do anything to the charging system being that 2/3 of them are 1 ah higher?
                    This is the problem! Unless I put the switches in between the batteries and the controller but in an individual way. Also a nice 65 tooth rear sproket will be on order with chain and master link and a chain breaker. Oh by the way it does have a free wheel sroket dangit so no regen till I figure out how to direct connect it. Think I can make a connector to lock the mechanism to get the brake regen feature when i get that new controller.
                    I still assume they use them in series.
                    The motor is as supected it is a my1016 250 watt 24 volt. I want to upgrade in the future to a 750 watt I think 1 hp should be nice but that is a 36v motor I think.
                    So any Ideas how to hook up the tesla switch to the current motor controller Mathew? Using all the mentioned cicuit that you provided. I would assume the controller go to the bridge rectifyer am i right?
                    Last edited by Jbignes5; 04-28-2009, 03:42 PM.

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                    • #40
                      I would assume the controller go to the bridge rectifyer am i right?
                      Thats right.

                      Matt

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                      • #41
                        ok got some parts.

                        Got me some:
                        12-1n3911r 20 amp heatsinked diodes. Way to expensive @ 7.00 a piece.
                        1- 1000v 50 amp bridge rectifyer cheap 4.95
                        1- 50 amp breaker Way too big in my opinion but thats all this guy had. 9.95
                        2- 51 ohm 2 watt resisters @2% 5.99 or so
                        15' of 12 gauge wire 600v rated
                        1 reed switch but I don't think i can use it. it is two poled very small but who knows.

                        I couldn't get the relays because he had none and the worst thing is the ones he could order would have costed me 24.95 each. This guy is suppossed to be a electronic supply store and I think i got ripped off to the tune of 116.00 so far. I will never go there again.
                        But I did get a major portion of the stuff. Going to get the batteries tomarrow. But I still don't have the relays and thats a major problem. Think I'll have to order them from online. Think I saw some for 6.00 a piece. @ 40 amps.

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                        • #42
                          hmmm

                          Well got 6 12v 15 amp contact relays comming from mouser electronics hopefully soon. Just an update since it won't let me edit my last post lol.

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                          • #43
                            You got spec sheet on them? How fast do they switch. I hope you checked into that. Alot of relays are real slow.

                            Matt

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                            • #44
                              Looks like.

                              The data sheet says 25ms operate & 20 ms release time. Thats the best ones I could find. Since there were none available locally then these will have to do. Unless you have another alternative?

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                              • #45
                                Hi Jbignes5,

                                SCRs wouldn't work instead of relays?

                                Take care,

                                Michel
                                http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jeYscnFpEyA

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