"RICK'S PIPE DREAM" Magnetic Motor-Generator

[rickoff]

Reply to Tj:

Hi Rick,

I am following your every step.....

My transfer/recycle center has hundreds of dead bicycle wheels....

Time to do a little recycling.....

Keep up the GREAT work!

Tj

Hi Tj,

Good to see you in here. Looks like you won't have any problem finding a wheel! When I found mine it was still on the bike, which had already been loaded into a junk metal bin at the recycling center. Someone had just thrown it in there as I was pulling up in my truck. It was almost closing time, so I just grabbed the entire bike and really didn't look it over until I had it at home. That's when I noticed the wheel was actually in fairly rough shape (rusty, bent rim, bent axle, bad bearings). After some fooling around with it I was able to get the axle somewhat straight, and unbend the rim so that it only runs out about an eight inch or so, but it would have been nice to find something better. Definitely go for a steel wheel (take a small ceramic magnet with you, and look for a chrome finished wheel. Some of the black finished wheels are steel too. I'll be posting more about the wheel selection in tomorrow's installment, which concerns finishing up the frame and mounting the wheel.

Thanks for your interest and participation, and best regards to you,

Rick

[rickoff]

Reply to Peter:

Hi Rick
Following with great interest,keep it going!!!
peter

Hi Peter,

Thanks for the kind words. I'm glad you are enjoying this, and I promise to make it interesting and worth your while to keep returning. Where do you hail from? I dont believe that I have conversed with you before this, and perhaps you are a new member here. Is that right? Anyways, welcome, and thanks for your participation.

Best to you,

Rick

[rickoff]

Progress report:

Hi folks,

With any luck I will receive my shipment of magnets today, but won't know until late this afternoon. While waiting for the magnets I have kept myself busy preparing and posting the construction steps, tightening up my test stand joints, installing the leveling mechanisms, and working on my stator arm. The stator arm will be made of PVC also, and will be integrated with the framework. I am making it to be sturdy and fully adjustable. Once I find the best position for the stator, I will lock up all the adjustments. The stator arm can swing into or away from its operational position to allow maintenance procedures, and to stop the rotor. After the stator is working well, I have plans to add a second stator arm with a matching magnet. I'll adjust the second stator magnet out of sync with the first, so that one or the other will at all times be at peak efficiency. I'll explain more about that later. I may just take a ride to the nearest bike shop today to see if I can get replacement bearings for my junk wheel, as they are really quite bad. They sound like someone filled them with sand, but I cleaned and regreased them before I mounted the wheel, so it seems that some of the balls have flat spots that keep coming around. In spite of this, the wheel does rotate, and I'm sure that the magnets will be able to keep it spinning, but I know I won't be able to get the rpm that some good bearings would allow.

That's it for now. Best regards to all,

Rick

[petersone]

Hi Rick
I've been looking for some time,but only just signed up,from uk.
As I said keep going and good luck!!!
peter

[Iotayodi]

Rick if you have a magnetic sheet how about checking out the magnetic crown effect and any single pulses you get after its put together.
Thats a lot of magnets by the way!

[Iotayodi]

Mylows new video today btw:

YouTube - howard johnson magnetic motor

[ashtweth]

Rick its my dream to have every one post disclosures like that what a dream presentation looks like one of the best ones i have seen my friend thanks for posting

[tecknomancer]

Thanks for all your efforts

The open design looks good!! your threads are always worth a read, I look forward seeing the results, magnetic motor generator is the holy Grail of zero input energy devices,

[rickoff]

Reply to Ash:

Rick its my dream to have every one post disclosures like that what a dream presentation looks like one of the best ones i have seen my friend thanks for posting

Hi Ash,

Thank you for the good words. I'm trying my best to make everything in this presentation crystal clear, so that nothing can be misinterpreted or left to the imagination. From what you say, it looks like I'm doing an okay job of it so far.

I'll be posting the remaining construction steps for the frame, leveling apparatus, and wheel mounting assemblies later today, and tomorrow will show how the stator arm is fashioned and mounted. After that, most of my posts will either be informational and/or show links to video presentations of the experimental and testing stages.

Thanks again for your comments, Ash, and best wishes to you,

Rick

[rickoff]

Reply to Tecknomancer:

The open design looks good!! your threads are always worth a read, I look forward seeing the results, magnetic motor generator is the holy Grail of zero input energy devices,

Hi Tecknomancer,

Thanks for your gracious comments. I really appreciate all the kind words and encouragement that I have been receiving since I started this thread. My primary purpose is to demonstrate how an effective rotational test device for magnetic experiments can easily be constructed and utilized in a number of different configurations (horizontal, vertical, steel wheel, non-magnetic wheel, flywheel effect, fixed stator, moving stator, etc.). I'd like to see as many people as possible joining this magnetic motor effort, because - as you say - it would be a triumph for mankind if a truly useful magnetic motor-generator can actually be produced. I can only hope that I will succeed, or that someone else will, and that free energy will become a commonly accepted alternative in meeting our energy needs .

By working with a common build such as this, individual experimenters can contribute and share ideas, and show test results, that can then be easily tested and verified by other individuals. If we are all using the same apparatus, then what works for one will work for all, and I think that anyone will be able to see the importance of that. The main point in such experiments is to always utilize readily available magnets, and other parts, rather than to experiment with non-identifiable or otherwise obscure items. With many people conducting these experiments, we can try out many different magnet configurations, and that is a distinct advantage. Magnets can be expensive, and for a single person to undertake these experiments with various sized and shaped magnets would no doubt be cost prohibitive. With many people sharing the expense, a positive outlook becomes more certain, and success becomes highly probable. It is important that all who participate in these experiments share precise information as to the exact magnets and layout that they are using. I will list the specifications of my magnets as I begin testing. I don't suggest that everyone rush to buy the same magnets in large quantities until we can achieve a setup that does show continuous and useful rotational thrust. It would be far wiser for other individuals to try different magnets and configurations, and to share those results. If each person who joins this effort will send me their e-mail address, I will send this group a list of magnets which are currently being tested, and will continually update and mail the freshened list to all participants when a new specification or configuration is added. This will prevent unnecessary duplications, and ensure that our testing is done in the most efficient and cost effective way possible. For anyone wishing to participate in this project, please e-mail me at rickandlezel@hotmail.com and I will add you to the e-mail group. I will use a blind carbon copy (bcc) for all addresses on the list, so you needn't worry that your address will appear in mail received by others. I hope to see many people building this apparatus and joining the effort. All I ask is that people don't start e-mailing me with a lot of questions, as I certainly will not be able to respond to everyone, and any attempt to do so would only result in slowing the progress of my experiments. If you have questions, please ask them here in this forum so that everyone can read the question and the answer. Also, as I mentioned in my opening post, I think that people will find that most questions that they have in mind will be found answered within this thread if they read through my posts carefully, and I will continue to post further information regularly.

Thanks to all for your continued interest.

Best regards,

Rick

[rickoff]

Step 3 to follow:

Hi folks,

I will be posting construction step #3 photos in just a few minutes. I was delayed because my camera battery needed recharging.

Rick

It took longer than I expected to label, annotate, and upload the 14 pictures shown in step #3, but I am nearly finished now, so if you come in and see only this please return in a few minutes and all will be completed.

[rickoff]

Construction Step #3 details

Hi folks,

The following 14 photos show how the axle mounting plates are prepared and then mounted to the wheel support frame members. The plates that I used were found at Lowe's Home Center. They are referred to as "Code Protection Plates," are part number 214828, and sell for $3.28 each. They measure 5" x 8" and are 1/16" thick. You will normally find them in the lumber section with other framing plates. These are used in walls to protect hidden electrical wiring and water pipes from damage should a homeowner attempt to drill or drive a nail into the wall at that location. The plates each have two sharp prongs projecting from one side, and you will need to remove these as shown in the instructions. Don't forget these sharp prongs are there when handling them, and warn the cashier before handing the plates to him or her. You will need two of these plates, and eight each of the following attachment hardware:
1/4" -20 x 2" long cap screws
1/4" -20 hex nuts
1/4" flat washers
1/4" lock washers

If you can not find these particular plates, look for a plate of similar dimensions, but do not use anything with lesser thickness. While only 1/16" thick, these plates are rigid enough to support the axle nicely.

If you have a work bench and steel jaw vise, I suggest that you use your vise to hold the plates as they are being worked upon. The following pictures show the necessary steps undertaken using minimal tools for the most part, and makeshift 2 x 4 work supports, since many people will probably not have a well equipped workshop. Where a handheld Moto Tool grinder is shown, a flat file can be substituted for deburring sharp edges. When drilling the plates, always drill slowly. I was not able to show it in the photos, but while actually drilling I used a second and larger ViseGrip tool, clamped onto the plates, to hold them steady. Please, never attemp to drill an object while holding it with your hand. I know this is common sense to the mechanically inclined of you, but to those not aware of the danger - a drill can siddenly seize up part way through the plate (especially if excessive drilling pressure is used) and the result will be very unfriendly to your hand. This kind of accident can break a finger, snap a tendon, or severely cut your hand. So please work safely. Clamp the plates in a vise, or use a large ViseGrip tool clamped tightly to the plates, and hold the vise grips - not the plates. Alternatively, you can temporarily drive a nail in half way, through a plate hole, into each of the 2 x 4's, and hold one of the 2 x 4's with your hand to steady it. When drilling as instructed in the following steps, drill slowly by letting the drill bit take time to do its work. Don't be in a hurry. Drill all the way through the two clamped plates and into the 2 x 4. Realign the plates before each new hole is drilled. FOLLOW ALL OF THESE STEPS CAREFULLY:



























Please note before tightening nuts: Install 1/4" lockwashers between the flat washers and the nuts. Sorry I left that out in the photo.

Repeat the last two steps for the remaining plate. When done, assemble all frame members together but do not cement or install fasteners in pipes.

You may wonder why I advise attaching the plates so that they butt up against the elbows, rather than mounting them at the center of the support member pipes. I arranged it this way for three reasons. First, butting the plates against the elbows ensures good plate and axle alignment. Secondly, since the wheel extends beyond the frame at one side, this makes for open and easy magnet placement and stator viewing. Third, if the wheel is used in a vertical orientation, the stand can rest on the long side opposite from where the axle plates are mounted. The wheel can also be set vertically by placing the stand on either of the shorter ends, but the long side's wider stance offers even better stability. SG users, however, may want to mount the axle plates at the center of the plate supports so that each corner member of the frame is equidistant from the wheel rim, as this could more easily facilitate mounting of multiple coils. If mounting at the center of the plate supports, I suggest that the axle hole in one of the plates be drilled slightly larger than the axle, as this will allow for easier and optimal alignment of the axle and wheel to the frame.

Continue on to Step #4, in the next post.

Best regards to all,

Rick

[rickoff]

Construction Step #4

This step involves mounting the wheel between the metal plates that were prepared and installed in step #3.

First, let me say a few words about the size and type of wheel that I chose. I found this wheel free, since the bike it was on had been thrown into a scrap metal bin at the local recycling center, but I did not take this particular bike simply because it was all that was available. I took it because it met my qualifying factors. First of all, I wanted a large diameter wheel of 26 to 28 inches, and this bike had 26 inch wheels. Actually, the true diameter of the wheel alone is about 22.5 inches. Bike wheels are specified according to the tire size, which in this case was 26". A large wheel magnetic motor has a better chance of succeeding than a small one, and this is because less force is required at the perimeter of a large wheel to rotate the wheel. This is true because of the additional leverage provided at that distance from the axle. If you can find a used 26 inch wheel that appears to rotate well, and with little if any runout, by all means grab it. If we can duplicate our builds to the same specs, then test results achieved by one can be achieved by all. If you go with a different size wheel, please let me know your tire size (marked on the tire sidewall, same as with automobiles) so I can make note of it on my spec sheet. Please note that my wheel came from the front of a Huffy bike, and has a 5/16" axle that is 5+1/4" (5.25") long. I priced a brand new replacement wheel at a local bike shop, and that was only $40, which isn't bad at all. I'll probably pick one up later, but this old junker will serve the purpose for experimentation's sake.

Secondly, I wanted a steel wheel rather than one of aluminum or other non-magnetic material. My reason for wanting a steel wheel is twofold:
1. Magnets are easily placed on a steel wheel without need of gluing, taping, or otherwise attaching them, and they will stay in place nicely (provided of course that you don't allow your stator magnet to come too close to, or in contact with them). This method also allows for the rotor magnets (the magnets on the wheel) to be easily repositioned for various experimental reasons.
2. Howard Johnson actually specified, in his magnetic motor patent, use of a permeability plate beneath the rotor magnets. While high permeability plate material such a Netic Conetic, or MuMetal, are considered the best such materials, they are expensive. The steel bicycle wheel, which is chrome plated, also offers a fair degree of permeability, so it makes sense to use a wheel of this material. I strongly advise against any use of aluminum in your build, as aluminum has a really weird effect on strong magnets, which is detrimental to movement. I will post a demonstration of that effect soon in a brief video so that you will understand what I am talking about if you don't already know.

Step 4A: Remove your wheel from the front of the bike (if it is currently attached) by removing the outside nuts on the axle. Hang on to the nuts - don't throw them out - as you will be using them later. Pull the wheel off the slots at the bottom of the forks to remove it from the bike. Next, deflate the tire by removing the valve stem cap and inserting a small tool, drill shank, or nail into the stem opening to depress the center pin, which will allow the air to escape. After all air is exhausted, remove one side of the tire from the rim by prying it out with a flat but blunt tool (no need to damage the tube, as it might come in handy at some future time) and then running the tool around the circumference of the wheel. Take the tube out next, and then remove the remainder of the tire in the same manner as above. If this is a used bike, you should clean and relubricate the bearings. To do that, remove both of the remaining nuts. These are the wheel bearing retaining and adjustment nuts, and in many cases they have a shaped surface at the inside which provides one of the two surfaces that the ball bearings ride upon. With one of these nuts removed, you should be able to then pull the axle out the other side and remove the wheel bearings from their seats. Some bearings, like the Huffy, have ball bearings set into a cage, which makes removal simple. Others may not have a cage, and if this is the case use special care not to lose any of the small ball bearings. Pick the bearings out, catch them in a clean paper towel or cloth rag, and set aside. Wipe the old grease from the bearing seats, and inspect the seats for roughness. If they look to be good, then apply a fresh coating of wheel bearing grease to the seats with a clean finger. You can get a small quantity of such grease at your local auto supply store. Use a high quality lithium based grease, either green or white. Later on I will talk about some other specialty lubricants that may also be used. The old grease can be cleaned off the bearings by first wiping them off with a clean, lint free cloth and then washing them with alcohol. Let them air dry - don't blow them with an airgun. Then place the bearings back into the seats and apply another course of grease over them. Clean the axle shaft nicely, reinsert it from the side you pulled it from, and reinstall the cleaned and greased outer seats and/or nuts. Adjust the bearing nuts up fingertight for now, and you are ready to mount the wheel. Even if you bought a brand new wheel, it is wise to check and make sure that it was greased at the factory. Assemblers make mistakes, and you don't want to mount an ungreased wheel and ruin the bearings.

Step 4B - mounting the wheel
Go to your local hardware store and get 4 hexagon jam nuts that match the thread on your axle. Jam nuts are not nearly as thick as regular nuts. Take one of the outer axle mounting nuts with you, and match the thread size and pitch by turning it onto a cap screw from a bin at the store, and then buy nuts of that size and thread pitch. Also buy 4 fender washers of your axle size. Fender washers have an extra large diameter, but same thickness as a regular flat washer. Place a jam nut on both ends of the axle, and turn these in until they rest against the bearing adjustment nuts. Now tip your frame assembly up into a vertical wheel mounting position (vertical, just like on the bike). Insert your hands in between the two plates and push to spread them outwards a bit. Measure to see that there is enough clearance between them for the axle to be inserted. Next, place the remaining two jam nuts on the axle ends and thread them in just enough so that the amount of axle protruding from each end equals the thickness of one fender washer plus one of your original outer nuts, plus 1/16" for the mounting plate. This is so that when installed and tightened, the outer nuts will sit flush with the axle ends. Place a fender washer over each end of the axle, lift the wheel into your frame, insert one end of the axle into a plate center hole, then align the other axle end with the remaining plate hole and push the plate onto the axle. Install the remaining two fender washers, and the original outer nuts. Thread the nuts up hand tight, then place adjusting wrenches on the nuts at both sides of the fender washers. Turn the nuts to lock the axle to the plates.

Step 4C - adjusting the bearings
Hold the wheel rim in your hand and try to move it from side to side. If you notice any free-play wobble, turn one of the bearing adjustment nuts in just a little tighter and recheck the side play. You want to eliminate all wobble, but be careful not to overtighten the adjustment nut any more than necessary to remove the wobble, as this would slow rotation and be hard on the bearings. When adjusted properly, hold each adjustment not steady while you cinch up the remaining jam nuts against them to lock their positions.

Done with the wheel mounting! At this point, your assembly should look much like the photo shown in post #2 of this thread, minus the magnets and hopefully minus the rust!

The next installment will show how to make and install the levelling apparatus, and how to align the frame members and lock them in place.

Best to all,

Rick

[rickoff]

Progress Update

Hi folks,

My magnets actually arrived late Monday afternoon, but I really haven't had an opportunity to experiment with them yet since I have been quite busy posting the construction details. I wanted to get all the details posted so that builders can get up to speed on this project and follow along with me. I'll post the levelling system and frame aligning/tightening procedures later today, and the following day will show how the stator arm is made up. If the weather is good this coming weekend, I will probably head up north to open my cottage for the summer, and will return home Sunday. That will give people a chance to catch up with the construction details. After returning, I'll start posting some videos to explain about the magnets I am using, how to handle and place the magnets on the wheel, and how to adjust the stator arm.

Until later,

Rick

[theremart]

Double the fun.

Rick

As I looked at your setup I kept thinking, this could double as a Bedini SSG energizer as well. One could hotmelt glue the ceramic magnets on...

I guess the simplest would to be to have multiple wheels one for a Bedini setup and one for a Mylow setup...


Your are laying some great ground work that could be used in multiple ways..

Great job!