"RICK'S PIPE DREAM" Magnetic Motor-Generator

[gene gene]

Hi Rick,

I just watched video #13 It does show how easily rotation can accomplished with only a small movement of stator magnet.

I hope to meeting with the buyer/seller of a recycling business near here today. They recycle thousands of computers every year and have pallet crates full of magnets, hard drives (Tesla turbines?), 12V batteries, fans and motors, speakers ect. I'm sure you know better than I what all is in a computer. I was thinking you might have suggestions for things to keep my eye out for, that might help anyone here in these forums.

Now the big ? In your thinking might it be possible to achieve full rotation with a pipe dream set up using only hard drive magnets? I'm thinking mostat, and maybe attaching rotor mags to wood fly wheel, at the perimeter facing out, with mostat beyond the wheel. Hope you get the pic. Might this be worth experimenting with?

Please keep up the good work,
Gene

[rickoff]

Reply to Mark:

Wow Rick it sounds like you've done some pretty thorough testing! I have watched all your videos and my ideas were suggested to help you to try and minimize the stator movement. I know your aware that the less the stator needs to move the less friction will come into play.

I'm also wondering if you've tried using twin stator magnets like Mylow has and also about multiple stator arms. I'm sure you've thought about both. Do you think it would be better to use 3, 4 or even 5 stator setups. Ive also thought about putting the magnets inside the 2 rims edges. So many things to test!

I hope I'm not asking too many questions, I need to get starting on my own setup so I can help instead of hinder your progress.

Keep up the excellent work we're all behind you 100%

Mark

Hi Mark,

Yes, I have considered all the possibilities, and there's no reason at all why several stator magnets couldn't be added at different points around the frame. The advantage of the tracking system is that this is easily accomplished because each stator follows the track in perfect movement timing. So once the track is set up, the rest is rather simple. I hope that you will go with my construction design for your tests, as it really is important that we have a lot of people working with the same standardized build. That way what works for one will work exactly the same for all, and this will speed up development and upgrading with enhancements. If everyone goes off in a different direction then very little is accomplished. This is a great multi-purpose test rig, and I don't see how anything else this good could possibly be built for a lower investment, so I'm hoping people will climb aboard and help me make this Pipe Dream come true.

Best regards to you,

Rick

[rickoff]

Hi Rick,

I just watched video #13 It does show how easily rotation can accomplished with only a small movement of stator magnet.

I hope to meeting with the buyer/seller of a recycling business near here today. They recycle thousands of computers every year and have pallet crates full of magnets, hard drives (Tesla turbines?), 12V batteries, fans and motors, speakers ect. I'm sure you know better than I what all is in a computer. I was thinking you might have suggestions for things to keep my eye out for, that might help anyone here in these forums.

Now the big ? In your thinking might it be possible to achieve full rotation with a pipe dream set up using only hard drive magnets? I'm thinking mostat, and maybe attaching rotor mags to wood fly wheel, at the perimeter facing out, with mostat beyond the wheel. Hope you get the pic. Might this be worth experimenting with?

Please keep up the good work,
Gene

Hi Gene,

Glad you enjoyed the latest video. Sorry it only shows about 15 to 20 seconds of motion at the end, but you can see that the wheel quickly picks up speed to the point where I simply can't maintain timing visually. Everything just becomes a blur, making it impossible to swing the stator arm correctly. While playing with this a little more today, I noticed that the stator wants to swing into the south position all on its own, so that's a definite plus. In other words, it would require no effort or drag whatsoever to shift to the south over rotor position. It is only when moving to the north position that resistance is encountered, and of course that is because there is north to north repulsion at that point. The track would need to be adjusted at the tail end to minimize anti-rotational resistance, while still affording a repulsive accelleration kick as the last magnet goes by. But once you have the track best adjusted for one group, the same will apply to the others.

Yes, it would be possible to build entirely with hard drive magnets in the manner that you stated. You could do this on the steel bike rim with perhaps 4 HD magnets placed on the rim and spaced equally apart and with the length aligned with the centerline of the rim. Mount them with the steel backing plate against the rim, and attach by drilling holes through the rim and securing with stainless steel screws and nylock nuts. With this arrangement, the stator magnet would be set to attract the south pole of a rotor magnet (either starting rotation or accellerating continued rotation), and then pivot to repel the north end of the rotor magnet (thus causing further accelleration and continuation of rotation in the same direction).

You can also do this by mounting the rotor magnets on a wood ring mounted to one side of the wheel. Or, you could opt to build yourself a wood wheel and omit the bike wheel. Mounting the wood wheel to my Pipe Dream test apparatus would be simple using a shaft with threaded ends and flanged mounting bearings. As a matter of fact, I am constructing such a wheel for other experiments. If you make a wood wheel, you should design it with three or four cutout sections to leave equally spaced apart "spokes." This will provide a much better flywheel effect than an uncut circle, as you want the majority of the wheel's weight at the outer perimeter. So go for it, Gene.

Best wishes,

Rick

[Mark]

Hey Rick

I need my daily dose of of magnet motor videos! Oh NO, there wasn't a black suburban parked outside your place last night was there.

Mark

[Hoppy]

Rick,

Are you intending to show others how to overcome friction in the MOSTAT so as to 'free run' their RPDMM's, or will you be leaving it to others to find a solution?

Hoppy

[rickoff]

Reply to Hoppy:

Rick,

Are you intending to show others how to overcome friction in the MOSTAT so as to 'free run' their RPDMM's, or will you be leaving it to others to find a solution?

Hoppy

Hi Hoppy,

My aim and intention is to reveal everything that anyone needs to know about constructing and operating the device. Are you speaking of friction in general, or referring to friction developed at a specific location during operation (wheel bearings, track riding apparatus, track to stator linkage, stator pivot, or whatever)?

Rick

[Mark]

Oh, I didn't see that you had #14 loaded yet, watching it now. I am also interested in how you will move the stator magnet without slowing the wheel down too much.

[rickoff]

Reply to Mark:

Hey Rick

I need my daily dose of of magnet motor videos! Oh NO, there wasn't a black suburban parked outside your place last night was there.

Mark

Hi Mark, I don't know if I'll be able to provide a daily dose of video, as I really need to get back to the enhancements of the build, but I'll do what I can. Last night I uploaded video # 14. Have you seen that one yet? It shows my preferred "cats meow" magnet arrangement and describes how it works when using a pivoting stator.

Currently, I'm uploading video # 15, which demonstrates spin with this method. I think you will find this one quite interesting, as I lift the stator magnet to a height of 1+3/4 inches above the rotor magnets (previous demo at 1") and still get good rotation and accelleration, and the movement of the stator truly becomes nearly effortless at this height.

Tonight or tomorrow I will upload video #16, which is the same demonstration after lowering the gap to 1". There is a very noticeable difference in that the startup and accelleration is accomplished quite a bit faster, with the rotor spinning quite well in just a few seconds. At that point, of course, I simply can't maintain timing anywhere nears accurate, and am simply relying of a "feel" of the repulsive forces involved. Of course when you do that it is easy to be off quite a bit at the attraction points, and also to create drag by applying repulsion where it is not actually wanted. I show a digital tachometer readout in this test, and although I only get up to 60 rpm before I quit trying to maintain timing, that's still not bad for a spin that only takes a few seconds to develop. Now the tradeoff between this demo and the previous one, in video #14, is that it does require more force to move the stator. I can't really say what is going to work best until I get the track working so that I can run some tests, but there probably is a height level that will give best overall performance.

No, I don't remember seeing a black Suburban, but then I really wasn't looking for one. Sometimes I do see them across the road from my house, as there is a used car lot located there.

Best regards,

Rick

[Mark]

Excellant Rick, Can't wait to see how you will build the ramp set up. If you can figure that out without causing too much drain on the momentum(spelling) then you've got it! May the force be with you.

Mark

[Hoppy]

Hi Hoppy,

My aim and intention is to reveal everything that anyone needs to know about constructing and operating the device. Are you speaking of friction in general, or referring to friction developed at a specific location during operation (wheel bearings, track riding apparatus, track to stator linkage, stator pivot, or whatever)?

Rick

Hi Rick

I'm referring to friction generally and particularly at the MOSTAT stator pivot and track riding apparatus during operation.

Hoppy

[Cloxxki]

Awesome work Rick, and I've only seen a fraction of your fine documentation process.

Your logic and solotions are eerily close to how I think, but you add to that the power to make it all happen, neatly and structured. Big respect.

If the mostat moves gladly moves itself in one direction, and hard the other, it seem logical to have a symmetrical setup of rotor magnet groups and 2 mostats, the movement of which is directly inter-linked. The two forces might cancel out and make it moving oh so nicely.

I have a lot of faith in your setup. I cannot find a flaw, and usually I can.

One more fan from Holland,

J

[tjnlsn255]

Hi Rick,

Wow... wow......

I am curious if you have tried placing another same face magnet between the groups to sort of bridge the gap and lessen the braking?

Your videos are amazing.... I can't wait to finish building mine and get started spinning that wheel.......

Is free energy green?

Tj

[FreeRadical]

My Build

Hi guys. This is my first post on this forum.
Here's some pics of my build so far, along with some construction notes.



The Bicycle wheel:
This is a 26" front wheel. Got it from my local bike shop, $32.50.
Bike Parts USA has a good selection, and has a similar looking wheel for $20 plus $12 shipping to my locale.
I spent many hours browsing Craigslist. Couldn't find anything. Most of the stuff is high-end (and possibly stolen ), which is almost always aluminum alloy. Bottom line is, no one is going to bother trying to sell used low-end wheels. How much could you get, $10??
Interestingly, you can get an entire 26" bike, including delivery, for about $100 from WalMart. That'll get you 2 wheels, plus a bunch of other nifty shiny spinning things.

The Mounting Plates:
I couldn't find the Code Protection Plates that Rick specified. So, I got a 36" piece of 2" steel C-Channel, 1/8" thick, from Home Depot for about $15, see the photo below.
I used 1/4-20, 1" SS U-Bolts to mount them. The OD of the PVC pipe is about 1.32", so I had to "coerce" the U-Bolts into compliance.
I used these because I happened to have them in my fastener collection, though I have no idea why, when or where I got them.
I'm quite happy with this setup. Its extremely rigid, and its adjustable. Also, I suspect that drilling through the PVC for mounting holes weakens it somewhat.
The top plate is 12", the bottom is 24".
Originally, my thought was to use the bottom plate to mount stators, generators, sensors and other such gizmos. (or was it that I was too lazy to make another cut, I dont remember? ).
It turns out that this does cause a slight 'magnetic drag'. If I place a row of magnets close to the plate, it will eventually park there, though very slowly.
I'm going to leave as is for now.



The Screws:
There are 320 screws in all, holding the PVC pipes together.
I used #8 x 3/4 self tapping screws with a hex head, as shown in the photo below. Mounted about 3/8" from the edge of the joints.
I got these at Home Depot, about $5 for 180 pieces, not a bad price.
I chose these primarily because of the Hex Head. As Rick mentioned in a previous post, Phillips head screws are problematic, in that they tend to strip easily or the drive bit is easily damaged. Been there.. done that.. not this time!.
Rick specified 1/2" screws. These screws were available in 1/2", however, as can be seen in the photo, they have a 'drill bit' point, which takes up a lot of the thread area. I was afraid 1/2" screws of this type wouldn't have enough thread to do the job, (I don't know if this is true or not, didn't take any measurements) so I got the 3/4" instead.
I was also concerned (less so) that the 3/4" screws would collide when screwed in from opposite ends of the joint.
It turns out that they do not collide, and have a clearance of about .150". However, this does cause one minor issue. If you use the leveling feet specified by Rick, the leveling bolts will collide with the 3/4" screws.
I drove the screws with my drill down to where the head of the screw meets the PVC. Then I went back and torqued down all the screws manually with a ratchet.
Unfortunately, I don't have a 'cordless screwdriver' or any such device with a clutch to limit the torque. Would have made the job a bit easier.
I don't know if you really need all these screws, but I'm very happy with the result. This thing is rock solid, and look pretty cool too



The MOSTAT:
The MOSTAT is made up of a BLDC motor, like the ones used in remote control aircraft, and an HD magnet backing plate, as shown in the photo below. The magnets and wires have been removed from the motor so it spins freely.
I drilled and tapped a hole approx in the center of the plate, and attached it to the motor spindle.
I then attached 10 of the BC62 magnets (held by magnetic force only) to the backing plate.
The motor was left over from another project, and was already attached to the aluminum angle bracket.
As can be seen from the first photo, the angle bracket is attached to a piece of slotted angle iron, which is attached to the PVC frame. All using spring clamps.

Thanks all for now.

Cheers.

[Iotayodi]

Looks great from where Im sitting! Nice work!!

[rickoff]

Reply to FreeRadical:

Hi guys. This is my first post on this forum.
Here's some pics of my build so far, along with some construction notes.

I'm quite happy with this setup. Its extremely rigid, and its adjustable. Also, I suspect that drilling through the PVC for mounting holes weakens it the result.

This thing is rock solid, and look pretty cool too

Thanks all for now.

Cheers.

Hi, and welcone to this thread. You appear to be the first replicator to complete the frame build. I'm glad to see your results, and to know you are happy with the apparatus. The plates that you are using are definitely a viable option, as is the method of attachment using U-bolts, although I'm surprised to hear you couldn't locate the code protection plates. They are generally available at most any construction supply store, and I have seen them at both Home Depot and Lowes, in the section with other metal construction plates and fasteners. Here's one such description:
SIMPSON Strong-Tie at Lowe's: Nail Protection Plate Z-Max

The advantage with the cpp's is that they are strong enough to support the axle, yet thin enough so that you can mount them right out at the very ends of the axle, which allows more space between the wheel and the frame members. See the close-up views at the beginning of my video #14 to see exactly what I mean, and how my plates are attached to the axle. Drilling the 1" pipe for mounting of the plates to the frame really does not weaken the frame, and attachment in this manner - with the four 1/4" cap screws - actually adds considerable bracing rigidity to the frame. If you stick with your current plates, which is fine, I'd suggest trimming both of them back to the frame members, as both will produce unwanted reactions with the rotor magnets if left at their current lengths. Otherwise, all is looking good.

As you can see, the frame is strong and durable when built as directed. Certainly additional angular bracing can be employed to make it even more rigid, but I didn't want to start adding too much of that just yet. Keeping things simple at first allows for more possible arrangements of additive fixtures such as additional stators, and the coils that will be used for electric power generation. My current stator arm was developed to be an integral part of the frame, and was really only intended to be used for testing and development purposes. My stator is now being moved to a front center arrangement where it will pivot above the centerline of the rim, and at the same angle as the rim slope of 8 degrees. My current stator arm will then become an adjustable perch for a coil to be used in the generator phase of the testing in this project. As you start experimenting, you will see the beauty of being able to slide your magnets into new configurations quickly and easily on the chrome plated steel wheel. You will also find that if you position your MOSTAT above the rotor magnets, rather than in front of them as is now the case, the magnet interactions will be much more powerful. Still, both methods work well, as I demonstrated early on in my videos.

Thanks for taking the time and care to replicate the apparatus well. I'm sure this will help to spur others into action to build their own replications. As you and others begin to verify the results shown in my videos, this should generate ever greater interest in the project, and should also serve to quell the disbelievers.

I salute you for your efforts, and send you a big pat on the back.

Incidentally, are you on my Pipe Dream e-mail list yet? If not, please send me your request and e-mail adress at rickandlezel@hotmail.com and I'll add you. I'll be sending out a pdf file to all recipients which includes all the construction steps and photos, and will send updates of that file as often as changes and enhancements are made.

Best wishes to you,

Rick



I can't stress this enough folks - if we all are working with the same build then what works for one will work for all, and this will result in rapid development and enhancement in this open source project.

Edit: Oh, and I almost forgot - if you do use the 3/4 inch screws for frame assembly then simply offset them 1/4 inch further in than the leveling adjuster screws on the bottom tees. I do prefer #6 x 1/2" torx head screws with full threaded length, but the hex head screws also work well if you can't find torx screws.