"RICK'S PIPE DREAM" Magnetic Motor-Generator

[rickoff]

Reply to Tj:

Hi Rick,

Wow... wow......

I am curious if you have tried placing another same face magnet between the groups to sort of bridge the gap and lessen the braking?

Your videos are amazing.... I can't wait to finish building mine and get started spinning that wheel.......

Is free energy green?

Tj

Actually, in my preferred "cat's meow" magnet arrangement and a MOSTAT, there is no braking effect. Instead, attraction and repulsion forces are used to full advantage. Attraction accelleration is seen with each incoming magnet group, and repulsion accelleration occurs at the outgoing end of each group. Maximum advantage! See demonstrations and explanations of this technique in videos #14 through 19, which are now posted.

Here is a link to all my videos:
YouTube - TheRickoff's Channel

Incidentally, you can view these videos in HD mode by clicking the HD button on the player, which shows a larger picture with higher resolution.

Best regards,

Rick

[rickoff]

Reply to Cloxxki:

Awesome work Rick, and I've only seen a fraction of your fine documentation process.

Your logic and solotions are eerily close to how I think, but you add to that the power to make it all happen, neatly and structured. Big respect.

If the mostat moves gladly moves itself in one direction, and hard the other, it seem logical to have a symmetrical setup of rotor magnet groups and 2 mostats, the movement of which is directly inter-linked. The two forces might cancel out and make it moving oh so nicely.

I have a lot of faith in your setup. I cannot find a flaw, and usually I can.

One more fan from Holland,

J

Hi J,

Thanks for your kind and generous comments. It does feel nice to have my work appreciated by so many.

The MOSTAT movement that I described earlier is related only to the use of groupings with all same polarity facing up. In my preferred "cat's meow" arrangement of alternating N-S-N-S groups, the interaction is different.

Video #15 ( http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rB34K66Be5A&feature=channel_page ) shows how attraction and repulsion are better utilized with a moving stator in my preferred magnet group configuration. The movement starts around 4:23 elapsed time. You will notice that the stator arm moves very slightly (1/2" or less is all that is required), and it requires almost no effort whatever to move the stator when it is positioned 1+3/4 inch above the rotor magnets. In video #16, which is uploaded but apparently not available for play yet, I show the same demonstration as in video #15, but with the stator just 1 inch above the rotor magnets. As can be seen, this gives a very quick and powerful accelleration effect. There's no question that when attraction and repulsion are both used to full advantage, as in this method, everything works beautifully. Now it's just a matter of effectively harnessing this power to its full potential through use of perfect timing techniques. I'll be discussing these techniques in detail, and showing exactly how I hope to achieve this efficiently and reliably, so stay tuned.

Best wishes to you,

Rick

[rickoff]

Reply to Hoppy:

Hi Rick

I'm referring to friction generally and particularly at the MOSTAT stator pivot and track riding apparatus during operation.

Hoppy

Thanks for clarifying that, Hoppy. I don't have enough time to answer you at the moment, but I think you will clearly see the answers presented as I describe and illustrate the construction procedures for those items in the coming days. This will also be included in my pdf file and sent to you if you are in my Pipe Dream e-mail list.

Best regards to you,

Rick

[marxist]

magnetic shielding

Hi rickoff,

I just recently came across your work and your videos. I think you will get this to work as intended and you may not need magnetic shielding.

But in case you do and you are not sure how to go about it, please go to
YouTube - magnetman1000's Channel
and watch at least his video
titled "Part 2 One Way Magnetic Shielding, The Holy Grail The Secret Revealed Part 2"

It explains the "James Roney magnetic shielding"

I will instantly remove this post, if you consider it spam or if this topic is already covered in your thread.

[Hoppy]

Thanks for clarifying that, Hoppy. I don't have enough time to answer you at the moment, but I think you will clearly see the answers presented as I describe and illustrate the construction procedures for those items in the coming days. This will also be included in my pdf file and sent to you if you are in my Pipe Dream e-mail list.

Best regards to you,

Rick

Thanks, I appreciate that you will first need to develop the motor to see how the overall frictional losses pan out against the magnetic attraction / repulsion gain.

Your video series is very well presented and principle behind driving the rotor is very simple and easily understood. I wish you every success in your quest to build a 'free runner'.

Hoppy

[FreeRadical]

..I'm surprised to hear you couldn't locate the code protection plates.

I should mention that the Home Depot I went to doesn't have a "lumber yard" as such, and therefore doesn't carry any sort of framing hardware. So said the MIO (Man In Orange ) that I asked. I didn't look anywhere else.

Cheers

Carl

[FreeRadical]

Mounting the wheel

..See the close-up views at the beginning of my video #14..

I see Rick's axle is 5/16".
Mine is 3/8"-26 TPI, which appears to be one of the standard sizes.
Note that standard 3/8 UNF fasteners use 24 TPI, so you'll have a hard time finding compatible nuts at your local hardware store.
I went to 3 of them, and couldn't find anything.

I'm sure the local bike shop has axle nuts, but I don't know if they have anything thinner like a jam nut.
I'm going to check it out today.

I ended up using a stack of washers to shim my wheel into place, but it was a real PITA to get it right.

In the meantime, I'm going to experiment using axle pegs as standoffs from the mounting plate, for my 2.0 build (if I get that far )

Cheers

Carl

[Michael John Nunnerley]

Bending The Flux Lines

Hi Rick and all

I have taken some time to experiment with moving flux lines on magnets, also to take account of the various claims of having achieved the making of a pmm such as Howard Johnson. In the outset I gave myself some questions to be answered:

1. Can we divert the flux lines
2. If we can divert the flux lines can we use them to our advantage
3. If the answer to 2. is yes, can we obtain sufficient power to be of use
4. How can we extract that power

There were a lot more questions than this but so as not to take up too much space on this thread I will leave it at 4.

Answers:

1. Yes, but they are always in some form of balance
2. Yes, in more than one way of which I will not go into on this thread.
3. This remains a grey area at the moment and may depend on other possibilities which are under investigation in this forum
4. I think this is answered in 3 above

My idea is to start a thread for the pure investigation of these things which will possibly aid other threads such as this one and others that are investigating PMM's. I will call it MANIPULATING OF MAGNETIC FLUX

Sorry Rick to take up space on your thread but I think this would make a good thread and will be of benifit to all and keep the construction threads only for construction, I am sure you will agree as many people are always asking questions which do not apply to the actual construction overall.

Mike

[FreeRadical]

Rick, great job on the vid's, I've seen them all.

I have one request: can you name your future vid's with the sequence number at the front of the name.

For example, instead of:
"Rick's Pipe Dream" Magnetic Motor - Generator, Video #16

Make it:
"Video #16, Rick's Pipe Dream" Magnetic Motor - Generator

When I look at your list of vid's they all have the title:
"Rick's Pipe Dream" Magnetic Mot...

This will make them much easier to navigate.



btw: did I see a Hammond in the background of one of your vid's?

[rickoff]

Reply to FreeRadical:

I see Rick's axle is 5/16".
Mine is 3/8"-26 TPI, which appears to be one of the standard sizes.
Note that standard 3/8 UNF fasteners use 24 TPI, so you'll have a hard time finding compatible nuts at your local hardware store.
I went to 3 of them, and couldn't find anything.

I'm sure the local bike shop has axle nuts, but I don't know if they have anything thinner like a jam nut.
I'm going to check it out today.

I ended up using a stack of washers to shim my wheel into place, but it was a real PITA to get it right.

In the meantime, I'm going to experiment using axle pegs as standoffs from the mounting plate, for my 2.0 build (if I get that far )

Cheers

Carl

Hi FR,

Yes, the nuts used on some bike axles have unique thread pitch. It seems strange that they use a 3/8"-26 thread when 3/8"-24 would be a standard fine thread, and there is no good reason for this change. What you can do is to use some hardened 3/8" threaded rod to make up an axle of whatever length you desire. Here's such an example:
McMaster-Carr
You probably will find 3/8"-24 jam nuts locally, but if not then you can order them here:
McMaster-Carr

It would appear to me that what you actually have there is a rear bike wheel minus a sprocket, as rear wheels commonly use a 3/8" axle while fronts are typically 5/8". Actually, as I have mentioned several times earlier in this thread, I prefer using a rear wheel with 3/8" axle, but the rear wheel on my salvaged junk bike was too far gone to be used. The heavier and longer axle offers greater strength and stability, and rear wheels use much larger and better ball bearings too. It's a definite plus. Also, new rear wheels typically cost no more than a new front wheel. I recently purchased a spanking new rear wheel for $25 at a local bike shop, although I haven't utilized it yet. You may find a new one for even less on eBay, but then you will pay about $15 to $20 to have it shipped to you, so a local bike shop is the best bet. Before I start drilling holes in my new wheel, I'm going to experiment further with my junk wheel. Then, when satisfied with my arrangement, I will transfer all of that to the new wheel.

FR, you have done a nice job with the frame. I'm wondering, though, why you removed the HD magnet from its backing plate? Perhaps you felt it was not strong enough. Judging from the thickness of your backing plate, it is thinner than mine, which is 1/4", and the HD magnet was probably also thinner than mine (also 1/4"). I tried several HD magnet sizes and shapes, and found my current one to be by far the best. Therefore I highly suggest that you see if you can grab a 1/4" one and try it out. One thing very much needed with this project is for someone to duplicate and verify the results shown in my videos. Many people are aware of the Mylow debacle, which has spurred much controversy, and I can see the after effect backlash of that in some of the comments I have received. After Steorn and Mylow disappointments, it will be difficult to convince people that what I am showing them is real and not faked. If you could duplicate my stator arm and verify my results, before working on other stator deployments, this will serve as a positive reinforcement to the direction and outcome of this project.

Thanks, and I truly appreciate your efforts.

Best wishes to you,

Rick

[rickoff]

Reply to marxist:

Hi rickoff,

I just recently came across your work and your videos. I think you will get this to work as intended and you may not need magnetic shielding.

But in case you do and you are not sure how to go about it, please go to
YouTube - magnetman1000's Channel
and watch at least his video
titled "Part 2 One Way Magnetic Shielding, The Holy Grail The Secret Revealed Part 2"

It explains the "James Roney magnetic shielding"

I will instantly remove this post, if you consider it spam or if this topic is already covered in your thread.

Hi marxist,

Your first sentence was correct, but the rest is off track. I'm well aware of the Roney and all other shielding methods. Roney didn't invent magnetic shielding. It has been used by many people for decades now. As far as shielding methods go, they all work to a point, but none work very well with neodymium magnets. So it's no "Holy Grail." In any case, no shielding whatsoever is required in my build, and if effective shielding could be employed it would only detract from the power of the attraction and repulsion forces. Watch my videos #15 and 16 ( YouTube - Therickoff ), and I think you will understand why shielding would be undesirable. Even from a standstill, the rotor magnet groups are pulled into the stator by attraction, and also accellerated along by that attraction force. If you were to shield the attraction, then you lose that wonderful thrust. At the tail end of the group, no shielding is needed either. The MOSTAT (moving stator magnet) is pivoted at the back end to repel the last magnet of the rotor group, and provides further accelleration. So you see, shielding has no place in a moving stator design, and is only applicable to designs using stationary stator magnets where "sticky points" and repulsive braking effects come into play. I demonstrated those undesirable effects in videos # 10 and 11, in case you would like to review those lessons.

No harm done, and you are welcome to post comments or questions here, but please let's leave the Roney method out of this thread as it simply doesn't apply. I had one commenter on YouTube trying to tell me that my setup was actually a "Roney wheel." It's not a Roney wheel, it's a bicycle wheel. Furthermore, Roney certainly wasn't the first person to attach magnets to a bike wheel. I did that 55 years ago, as a 9 year old, thinking that perhaps I could turn my bike into a magnetic motorcycle of sorts. It did seem to help, but not like I had hoped it would.

Also, don't compare this method to the Mylow method, as this is a radical departure from his setup and methods. And, no trickery involved here. Whatever you see, it's all very real.

Best regards,

Rick

[rickoff]

Reply to Carl:

Rick, great job on the vid's, I've seen them all.

I have one request: can you name your future vid's with the sequence number at the front of the name.

For example, instead of:
"Rick's Pipe Dream" Magnetic Motor - Generator, Video #16

Make it:
"Video #16, Rick's Pipe Dream" Magnetic Motor - Generator

When I look at your list of vid's they all have the title:
"Rick's Pipe Dream" Magnetic Mot...

This will make them much easier to navigate.





btw: did I see a Hammond in the background of one of your vid's?

Hi Carl,

Thanks for reminding me about the titles, as I have been meaning to change that. Now they are all fixed. And yes, that was my Hammond in the background - just one of the several keyboards that I use.

Best 2 u,

Rick

[FreeRadical]

..It seems strange that they use a 3/8"-26 thread when 3/8"-24 would be a standard fine thread, and there is no good reason for this change.

26 TPI is very close to 1mm pitch (1mm == 25.4TPI), which is a common size for metric bike axles. Perhaps the finer thread is needed for a tighter grip? I don't know.

This could be a frustrating show stopper for builders. I've spent a good amount of time researching this and running around town looking for a non-existent nut!!
Now I know.
Anyways, using a stack of washers to shim the axle (like I did in my build) is at least a workable solution, though not as nice as Ricks double-nut setup.

FR, you have done a nice job with the frame. I'm wondering, though, why you removed the HD magnet from its backing plate? Perhaps you felt it was not strong enough. Judging from the thickness of your backing plate, it is thinner than mine, which is 1/4", and the HD magnet was probably also thinner than mine (also 1/4"). I tried several HD magnet sizes and shapes, and found my current one to be by far the best. Therefore I highly suggest that you see if you can grab a 1/4" one and try it out.

Mine is 1/8 magnet and plate. I like that big sucker you have there, and will be ordering one soon.

Here's the story: I originally had 4 of these HD magnets. Long ago I removed the magnets from the plates. The plate you see in the photo is from my first attempt at removal.
I tried to chisel the magnet from the plate. The magnet came off alright, just not in one piece.
I then found the right the way to do it. Grab each end of the plate with pliers and bend it, the magnet falls off, and you toss the mangled plate.
So, to experiment with the wheel, I re-attached a magnet to the plate (just with magnetic force).
The magnet finally broke after being smashed about many times.
As a substitute, I attached the 10 BC62's as shown.

One thing very much needed with this project is for someone to duplicate and verify the results shown in my videos. Many people are aware of the Mylow debacle, which has spurred much controversy, and I can see the after effect backlash of that in some of the comments I have received. After Steorn and Mylow disappointments, it will be difficult to convince people that what I am showing them is real and not faked. If you could duplicate my stator arm and verify my results, before working on other stator deployments, this will serve as a positive reinforcement to the direction and outcome of this project.

Rick, I'm still gather all the parts for the stator assy (lots of stuff there!), I'll have it done soon.
I tried the things you showed in your earlier videos, just holding the magnet by hand with both NNNN and NSNS arrangements. I've got a pretty good feel for how it is supposed to work now.

With my MOSTAT I can get pretty good acceleration. The setup is NNNN (10 each), the S of the stator magnet is pointing up.
It attracts going into the group.
Rotating the stator (CCW from the back) after it enters the group allows it to exit.
It doesn't take much, even a few degrees is enough to keep it going.

I'll post some videos as soon as my twin brother Tony gets here with the fishing line.

Cheers

Carl

[Shamus]

Hi Rick,

In experimenting with my smaller, ceramic magnet wheel I've come to wonder about the length of the groups. I've found that if I hold either pole of my mostat in the middle of an all north or all south group on the wheel, nothing happens. I can get the wheel to turn, as long as the timing of the back and forth of the mostat is correct, however.

So I guess my question for you is, does this happen on your wheel when only one pole of your mostat is above a magnet group? It seems to me that barring any already existing momentum that a mostat north pole sitting in the middle of a north facing group wouldn't necessarily turn. Is this your experience?

The nagging point that keeps coming back for me is that once the initial attraction starts (and, with neos it's quite powerful) the magnets in the group on the wheel don't contribute anything, do they? In other words, all of the movement seen is coming only from the momentum of that initial attraction, no? Of course you still get the kick on the back end when you switch poles on the mostat but, assuming that the magnets in the middle of the groups contribute nothing to the rotation, wouldn't that be an argument for using smaller groups of magnets on the wheel?

Never mind me, I'm just groping around in the dark, looking for a candle to light.

[rickoff]

Rick, I'm still gather all the parts for the stator assy (lots of stuff there!), I'll have it done soon.
I tried the things you showed in your earlier videos, just holding the magnet by hand with both NNNN and NSNS arrangements. I've got a pretty good feel for how it is supposed to work now.

With my MOSTAT I can get pretty good acceleration. The setup is NNNN (10 each), the S of the stator magnet is pointing up.
It attracts going into the group.
Rotating the stator (CCW from the back) after it enters the group allows it to exit.
It doesn't take much, even a few degrees is enough to keep it going.

I'll post some videos as soon as my twin brother Tony gets here with the fishing line.

Cheers

Carl

Hi Carl,

Have you tried the MOSTAT with the N-S-N-S configuration? The reason I like it so much better than the N-N-N-N one is that the MOSTAT only needs to move back and forth half as much.

Like you say, we can achieve continuous rotation by only moving the stator a slight amount. At the center of the HD magnet you have equilibrium, and there is a quick shift from N to S on either side of that point. So yes, just a few degrees of stator movement is enough to keep the rotor spinning. Several times during my videos I moved the stator exaggeratedly, much more than was necessary. You could see in videos 15 and 16 that when I cut the travel to 1/2" it still worked fine, and I can go even less than that. Of course my stator magnet's strength, as I pointed out in my videos about the stator arm, is greatest at 1/2" from the magnet center, so if you were to move the magnet in a 1" arc, you would derive the strongest rotations possible. While 1" may sound like a lot, remember that it is only 1/10 inch of travel for each magnet in the group. Still, I'm sure there will probably be an amount of travel that will work out best when in self-runner mode, and it may well be less than 1".

What I find most important for best operation in the N-S-N-S "cat's meow" arrangement, is that the stator movement needs to progress so that the repelling pole is situated perfectly over the tail end of the magnet group as the last magnet passes. This gives a great boost of accelleration, as I'm sure Carl can attest to. And with the "cat's meow" arrangement, the position that allowed for maximum repulsive effect at the tail end of the rotor magnet group remains the perfect position for attraction of the next group, which is of opposite polarity. Thus, no stator movement necessary during the travel between magnet groups. This is very important, because both the repulsion accelleration, and the further attraction acceleration, occur while there is no stator movement, and thus no anti rotational force is involved during that period of travel.

Carl, once you get the stator arm finished, and mount a 1/4" HD magnet, you really must try the "cat's meow" arrangement at both the 1" stator to rotor magnet gap, and the 1+3/4" gap. You will find that while the 1" gap gives super quick accelleration, the 1+3/4" gap still works well and requires almost no perceptible effort to move the stator. You will be amazed at the ease of movement.

Best regards to you,

Rick