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"RICK'S PIPE DREAM" Magnetic Motor-Generator

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  • Originally posted by billwarner9997 View Post
    As you probably know kjmagnets has 3/8" x 3/4" x 1/8" magnets on backorder. With that in mind , I'm trying to come up with alternatives.
    Bill, the 3/4" x 3/8" x 1/8" BC62 magnets are out of stock at K&J, but this may only be a temporary situation. They may have experienced a run on these since I explained I was using them. If they don't plan to replenish their supply of these, you might consider the BC44, which is the same 3/4" length, but is 1/4" wide and 1/4" thick.

    K&J Magnetics - Products

    That would work fine, and eliminate the need to double-stack the rotor magnets. Fifty of these goes for $42.50, and would provide you with 10 spare magnets. Naturally, if you use the same group layout, the space between each magnet will increase from 5/8" (at the outside perimeter) to 3/4". Likewise, if you plan to use the polycarbonate wedges between each magnet, as shown in the previous post photo, the wedges must be increased in width similarly.

    Here's a tip for installing these on the steel bike wheel rim:

    First, it is important that you locate a steel bike rim having a flat surface, so that the magnets adhere properly, so take a straight edge with you when selecting a wheel, to make sure. Some wheels have a crowned convex surface that may not be perceptible without holding a straight edge against the surface. If the straight edge can't be rocked, and doesn't show any light between the edge and the rim surface, then you have a good wheel.

    Alternately mark off ten 1/4" divisions, and nine 3/4" divisions (between the 1/4" divisions), at the wheel rim's outside perimeter, using a sharp pointed magic marker pen. Hold a magnet at one end, between your thumb and forefinger, and keeping it a few inches away from the rim, but at the same level. Slowly move it in closer until the bottom of the magnet contacts the rim surface, and then slide it into position. Never attempt to set a magnet straight down onto the rim, as it will slam down when it gets close, and will either pinch your fingers or break, or both. Likewise, when you separate one magnet from another, the best way is to slide them apart. Placing one of the pair, or stack, upon a board edge, while pushing down on the unsupported magnet or magnets will allow for a sliding separation with the least effort.

    Rick
    Last edited by rickoff; 03-01-2010, 08:56 PM.
    "Seek wisdom by keeping an open mind to alternative realities, questioning authority, and searching for truth. Only then, when you see or hear something that has 'the ring of truth' to it, will it be as if a veil has been lifted, and suddenly you will begin to hear and see far more clearly than ever before." - Rickoff

    Comment


    • Replication

      Thank you for your prompt reply.

      The short answer to the question is yes, I plan to replicate. After I finish with the Tesla Switch and a few other projects.

      As I see it, there are 2 different approaches in trying to reduce energy costs: total self sufficient power generation or just reducing cost. I live on the edge of a metropolitan city (Columbus, Ohio). I own a 1/2 acre lot in a small developement. I have no driving philosophical desire to get off the grid, but I do wish to reduce costs. I've already replaced all my lights with energy saving ones (by the way, these only save half the wattage, not 3/4 as implied on the labels - check the "power factor" with a Kill-a-watt meter) but I'm still using 1200 kwh a month. I recently had my meter replaced by the power company and my usage went from 800 kwh to 1200 kwh. I called to have them verify my meter calibration but before the technician came out I counted up my devices and discovered they were right. Sure enough the tech verified the meter calibration. I didn't object and during the ensuing conversation I discovered a number of facts. It seems that about half the meters in my area are reading low and are on target to be replaced. The power company is aware of it and is replacing 5% to 10% a year. So for a number of years I received a "discount". Now I'm one of the "Full payers" helping pay for the rest of the low meter readings.....

      This started my search for a "set and forget" device to help reduce costs.
      As you stated in the "Run your meter backwards" forum, a steady continuous input of 500 watts 7 days a week, 24 hours a day would knock off 360 kwh a month. 2 of them would cut my usage in half. A system of this type uses the grid to take care of the peaks and simplifies the control to a steady state operation plus safeties.

      So what technologies could do this? Solar electric panels could but they are very expensive. A windmill or 2 would do it, but not in town were I live. A hydrogen powered IC engine driven generator would need an external power building and still might be a noise problem. Same for any kind of steam generation. In short, the only devices I see that are close to "set and forget" are a J. Bedini SSG based system, a Tesla switch system or your "Pipe Dream" driven system. All 3 could safely be installed in my basement, all are reasonably inexpensive to build and all appear to be easily maintained.

      I hope this isn't too far off topic.

      Bill

      Comment


      • Hi Bill, and thanks for your input, which is not at all off-topic. You really do use quite a bit of power at your location. I use about 450 kwh during each of the winter months, and consider my use about average.

        Have you considered wind power as augmentation? I have been in your area a few times, but don't remember any windy days. It would depend upon how you are situated there (elevation, open fields, etc.).

        Wind and solar definitely have their applications, but unless you are in a situation where either or both are plentiful then they can't compare to a device that works more or less constantly, even if it puts out considerably less power per active time period. Slow, but steady and sure, is a good way to go. And you are right in assuming that a low noise mechanical or solid state device will be your best bet in achieving the desired results.

        Here's another idea that no one seems to talk about:
        Suppose that you connect an impeller to your water supply line, so that all water used at your homestead passes through the unit, and spins it. Then use that spin force to drive a generator capable of charging a deep cycle 12 volt battery (or perhaps 2 or more banked together). A 12 volt DC/120 volt AC inverter could then power a circuit to provide lighting in your home during the evenings, and perhaps more than just lighting. Something to think about, anyways. Right now, all that water you are using is doing nothing but adding to your monthly utility bill costs.

        Rick
        "Seek wisdom by keeping an open mind to alternative realities, questioning authority, and searching for truth. Only then, when you see or hear something that has 'the ring of truth' to it, will it be as if a veil has been lifted, and suddenly you will begin to hear and see far more clearly than ever before." - Rickoff

        Comment


        • Hi Rick
          Always look forward to your posts,I have often thought about an genny in the water pipe,we may have to pay for the water,but the presure is "free"
          peter

          Comment


          • Have you considered wind power as augmentation? I have been in your area a few times, but don't remember any windy days. It would depend upon how you are situated there (elevation, open fields, etc.).


            Yes, I have considered wind. However I live in a small development with zoning restrictions that preclude installation of towers. Besides I'd prefer "stealth" mode - no use in advertising.

            Comment


            • This photo shows the MOSTAT pivoted into attraction to a North facing up rotor magnet group. Here again, the MOSTAT remains in self
              positioning alignment throughout the rotor magnet group. With this precise positioning known, stops can be built in to limit the travel of either
              the MOSTAT, or the slider carriage linked to it, so that there is no possibility of overshooting the desired position. The stop mechanisms can be
              quite simple, especially during the testing phase, and should incorporate a "soft stop" such as a felt or rubber bumper pad to reduce any possible
              operating noise.

              Due to the position of the MOSTAT, one might question what is going on here, and think that perhaps the rotor magnet group is actually South
              facing up, and that the South pole of the MOSTAT is repelling the rotor magnets in the direction of rotation. I assure you that is not the case.
              The rotor group advanced from the left side of the photo, and was drawn into the MOSTAT by self-starting attraction.

              "Seek wisdom by keeping an open mind to alternative realities, questioning authority, and searching for truth. Only then, when you see or hear something that has 'the ring of truth' to it, will it be as if a veil has been lifted, and suddenly you will begin to hear and see far more clearly than ever before." - Rickoff

              Comment


              • For the sake of easy comparison, here again are the three MOSTAT positions:

                1. MOSTAT North attracting South rotor group.
                2. MOSTAT at mid transition between rotor groups.
                3. MOSTAT South attracting North rotor group.



                Note: These three photos were taken with the camera hand held, and that is why the orientations are slightly different.
                The full transition from North to South requires a 1.250 inch movement of the hard drive magnet. At the MOSTAT control
                arm, this is reduced to about a 5/8 inch movement at the linkage pin hole. Thus, the slider carriage and linkage rod will
                only be required to move 5/8 inch inward or outward at each transition point, which is directly at the tail end of each rotor
                magnet group. This is a small movement, and I feel certain that it can be accomplished quickly through magnetic repulsion
                at the desired timings. As rotor speed advances beyond a certain level, the transition may not be fast enough to reach the
                desired stop position before the next advancing rotor group is engaged, however this is not problematical since my
                experimentation has shown that as long as the MOSTAT is moved at least half the required distance, it will continue into
                self alignment of its own accord. Thus a mere 5/16 inch or more of carriage travel will do the trick, and as long as that
                travel occurs before reaching the half way mark between rotor groups (about 4 inches on the rotor perimeter) then
                continuous rotation will be assured.
                "Seek wisdom by keeping an open mind to alternative realities, questioning authority, and searching for truth. Only then, when you see or hear something that has 'the ring of truth' to it, will it be as if a veil has been lifted, and suddenly you will begin to hear and see far more clearly than ever before." - Rickoff

                Comment


                • Slider mechanism question

                  Out of curiosity, why not attach the hard drive magnet directly to the slider mechanism?

                  Bill

                  Edit: Also is there some place you have all the video files stored in their original high definition so they may be downloaded? I find myself reviewing them often to see what I missed or have a question about. I can grab the U-tube versions, but it is done in real time and only by individual post, not all at once.
                  Last edited by billwarner9997; 03-03-2010, 04:33 PM.

                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by billwarner9997 View Post
                    Out of curiosity, why not attach the hard drive magnet directly to the slider mechanism?
                    My original idea was to mount the stator on a pivoting mounting plate, as I have now done. I did mount the stator directly on the slider carriage for the first trials, as can be seen in the photo below, but a pivoting mount has distinct advantages: First, the required activation movement to effect a pole change is halved when using the pivot arrangement, allowing for more rapid pole changing. Secondly, as seen in the 3 photos of my previous post, the pivoting stator magnet actually "chases" the tail end of the rotor magnet group for a short distance when moved into position, and this will increase the effective repulsion which is desired at that moment of rotation.



                    Originally posted by billwarner9997 View Post
                    Also is there some place you have all the video files stored in their original high definition so they may be downloaded? I find myself reviewing them often to see what I missed or have a question about. I can grab the U-tube versions, but it is done in real time and only by individual post, not all at once.
                    I do have the originals stored here at home, but nowhere online. The YouTube videos are playable in HD, so should be good for downloading. The wmv formats are about 444 Megabytes in size, while the original avi files are around 6.5 Gigabytes, so putting the avi's on the Internet is really not practical, and they are too large to send as e-mail attachments.

                    Incidentally, there is a listing at the Pipe Dream website of all my YouTube videos, with a brief description of the contents of each. You may find that helpful when looking for specific things, especially when trying to remember which previously viewed video you saw something in. Go here: Videos

                    Rick
                    Last edited by rickoff; 03-03-2010, 08:14 PM.
                    "Seek wisdom by keeping an open mind to alternative realities, questioning authority, and searching for truth. Only then, when you see or hear something that has 'the ring of truth' to it, will it be as if a veil has been lifted, and suddenly you will begin to hear and see far more clearly than ever before." - Rickoff

                    Comment


                    • Pipe Dream Updates

                      Hi folks. Sorry, but I had to delay further posting for a while so that I could take care of more pressing matters, such as doing my taxes. I now have another post ready to go, and
                      will be adding more tomorrow. This one shows the new slider carriage assembly, ready for mounting on the slider rail. Note that this top-down view is somewhat deceptive because
                      the polycarbonate carriage body is actually mounted about 1.25 inches abobe the PTFE slider pads. This has the effect of making the carriage body appear to overhang the stops
                      which have been mounted to the slider pad outside ends, when in fact the opposite is true (the stops actually overhang the carriage body by 1/8 inch, and more if the rubber stop
                      pad, as shown at left, is added). The stop pad material is a self adhesive backed closed cell foam tape that comes in a 3/4 inch wide x 3/16 inch tickness roll, and is easily cut to
                      size with a pair of scissors.

                      Last edited by rickoff; 04-18-2010, 02:03 PM.
                      "Seek wisdom by keeping an open mind to alternative realities, questioning authority, and searching for truth. Only then, when you see or hear something that has 'the ring of truth' to it, will it be as if a veil has been lifted, and suddenly you will begin to hear and see far more clearly than ever before." - Rickoff

                      Comment


                      • This photo shows the slider bar channel stops that will be mounted inside the slider bar channel to provide the desired stop locations for slider carriage movement limiting. These
                        were fashioned so that they could be inserted at the end of the slider channel and slid into place. After determining and marking the best location for the inward carriage limit
                        stop, the two mounting holes for the stop could then be drilled so as to avoid any of the screws that mount the slider rail to the 1 inch square hollow aluminum bar stock. Holes
                        are then drilled, through the doubled aluminum bar stock base of one channel stop, to accommodate the two #8-32 x 5/8 inch long round head stainless steel machine screws that
                        will be used for mounting the stop to the slider channel.

                        "Seek wisdom by keeping an open mind to alternative realities, questioning authority, and searching for truth. Only then, when you see or hear something that has 'the ring of truth' to it, will it be as if a veil has been lifted, and suddenly you will begin to hear and see far more clearly than ever before." - Rickoff

                        Comment


                        • This photo shows the tap drilling procedure. A hand held electric drill is fine for drilling the tap holes. Just use caution to steady the drill in a 90 degree position relative to the slider
                          rail during drilling, to prevent any wobble that would enlarge the holes and diminish the tapped thread strength.

                          "Seek wisdom by keeping an open mind to alternative realities, questioning authority, and searching for truth. Only then, when you see or hear something that has 'the ring of truth' to it, will it be as if a veil has been lifted, and suddenly you will begin to hear and see far more clearly than ever before." - Rickoff

                          Comment


                          • Next, we're ready to tap the #8-32 threads into the slider rail, as shown in this photo.

                            "Seek wisdom by keeping an open mind to alternative realities, questioning authority, and searching for truth. Only then, when you see or hear something that has 'the ring of truth' to it, will it be as if a veil has been lifted, and suddenly you will begin to hear and see far more clearly than ever before." - Rickoff

                            Comment


                            • This photo shows the inward channel stop mounted to the slider rail, and the relationship of the channel stop to the slider carriage end stop.

                              "Seek wisdom by keeping an open mind to alternative realities, questioning authority, and searching for truth. Only then, when you see or hear something that has 'the ring of truth' to it, will it be as if a veil has been lifted, and suddenly you will begin to hear and see far more clearly than ever before." - Rickoff

                              Comment


                              • Now, before the remaining channel stop position can be determined, it is necessary to prepare and attach the linkage rod between the slider carriage and the pivoting stator control
                                arm. This photo shows how the linkage rod is prepared for attachment. Please note that although the photo does not show it, the attachment hole at one end should be bevel
                                countersunk to allow for recessing the flat head attaching screw flush with the surface of the rod. This is necessary in order to avoid contact of the screw with the carriage surface.

                                Last edited by rickoff; 04-18-2010, 06:44 PM.
                                "Seek wisdom by keeping an open mind to alternative realities, questioning authority, and searching for truth. Only then, when you see or hear something that has 'the ring of truth' to it, will it be as if a veil has been lifted, and suddenly you will begin to hear and see far more clearly than ever before." - Rickoff

                                Comment

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