"RICK'S PIPE DREAM" Magnetic Motor-Generator

[rickoff]

Reply to Stealth:

From what I have observered in Mylow's videos are that his stator magnet arrangement is at the extreme critical range of his magnets effectiveness on the rotor magnets. This would explain why he keeps talking about his sweet spot. This is the position where the stator magnets are not repelled by the rotor magnets enough to cause them to stop. On top of that, his stator magnet arrangement is moveable, lessening the effect. When the appropriate distance is attained, the sweet spot is consistent both entering and exiting of the rotor magnets. Naturally, with this accomplished, his wheel will spin because of attraction, or repulsion. It should be able to run either direction without any difficulty. Just my observation. Stealth

Hi Stealth,

I think what you mean in your opening sentence is the same as what I pointed out in point #4 of my previous post. Is that right? Any higher up, and there would be no rotation. In Mylow's original working setup, with the horseshoe magnet, his "sweet spot" was where the lead-in magnet of the group was positioned just past the point of equilibrium between the stator's south and north poles. This provided the startup thrust that was needed. In his new setup, the "sweet spot" for startup occurs at the point where the stator magnet's upper south pole face is ahead of the lower north face at the tip, and is close enough to the stator group to cause attraction that draws the group in toward the stator. Yes, the latest setup could run in either direction, as you say, whereas the horseshoe stator had to be reversed to change rotational direction.

Best wishes to you, Stealth. May the magnetic force be with you.

Rick

[rickoff]

Phase 3 of Stator Arm construction







Please note: I was unable to find any more nylon pan head screws locally, but did find some short ones in an angled oval head design. The threaded length was about 1/4", and not long enough to work, so I countersunk the hole openings a bit to match the angle of the screw head. If you choose to do yours this way, countersink before you make the threads with the 1/4"-20 tap. Countersink about the same amount shown above, and the screw threads will then extend about 1/8" past the bottom of the hole.





The vertical angle adjuster will be used to position the stator arm at the most advantageous angle from vertical, and this will depend upon your wheel. Wheel rim sides are made angled slightly so that they are wider apart at the outer edge than at the innner dimension. Generally, it is best to match the stator arm angle to the wheel rim angle so that the stator magnet will be perfectly aligned at the same angle as the rotor magnets. After the next step, which completes the stator arm sonstruction phases, I will show how to make all the adjustments properly and safely.

The last phase of the stator arm construction will show how I have mounted my stator magnet in such a way as to allow for horizontal angle adjustment, and depth of horizontal placement above the rotor. Until then -

Best regards to all,

Rick

[groundhog]

Awesome Build Rickoff!

Thanks Rickoff for this build thread, I've been watching your progress with much enthusiasm and interest as I had already begun my own HJ motor build! I've not had the time to work much on it, but much time to work in the 'mind lab'. I appreciate your open and 'step by step' style! One of the concepts that I was planning on implementing in my build was to utilize the rotational energy and the existing magnets to generate enough power via a small 'lenzless' or 'reduced lenz' typ coil to charge a cap and then use a small solenoid to move the stator magnet away slightly during the sticky phase. With the right set-up, the initial charge might not even have to be provided to the cap. I've seen an interesting toroidal type coil demonstrated on YT that might produce enough energy to accomplish this task without adversely affecting the rotation. The timing could then be very easily done with an opto type wheel/switch arrangement. What's your take on that angle?

Another question that I've been pondering and will try to implement on my build is the multiple stator arrangement that HJ stated MUST be utilized. I can't seem to find the quote in my research material at the moment, but will post it when I do. He stated that his Magnetic motor required the use of at least 3 stator arms, each containing the 2 slightly offset curved magnets, would be required to maintain the continuous rotation effectively. Have you also found that?

Many, many thanks for your efforts and time here on this thread!!

Rick

[Spearmaster]

I'm starting...,

Hi Rickoff,

Well, I bought all the pipe and fitting and a bunch of nuts and bolts and magnets, and found an old rusty steel bicycle wheel, so it looks like I'll be trying to put one of these contraptions together . I'll end up having to work on it in spurts since I'm also working on other projects. So far, I have most of the pieces cut and the day after tomorrow I'll be assembling as much of it as I can. My magnets should be here by then so we'll see how far we get. Thanks for the build. I'm sure I would not have done as well by myself.

Later,
Carl

[rickoff]

Reply to Stealth

Thanks Rickoff for the encouragement. I have too little time to actually build anything much right now. I have so many projects going on that I can't spend enough time on each one to finish them. I have been watching your magnetic motor, and think you are doing a great job of building a simple magnetic motor that most anyone can replicate. This may be the very thing it takes to get more people involved in the FE revolution. If they could see one running and not witholding info on build, they might be persuaded to get involved. I do hope you can get in self running, and with enough power to sustain a generator or magneto to produce some power. If I can help,let me know, because I want you to succeed. Good Luck. Stealth

Hi Stealth, and many thanks for your kind words. I know exactly how you feel about getting too involved in too many projects, as that has always been a problem with me. Right now I have so many "eggs in the basket" that it's enough to make my head spin! But this project is something that I felt could not wait any longer, so I set everything else aside momentarily and dove into it. So far I'm pretty much on schedule, and now that the construction details are nearly finished (I'll be posting the remainder tonight) that will allow me some time to work on the enhancements needed to make this a self runner. I truly believe that I can do it, and of course that's half the battle. My mind is always thinking a few steps ahead, so I always have a feel for what's needed next. Most important of all, I believe, is getting the complete construction specs and steps made available to everyone. I am trying to make everything so crystal clear and complete that no one can possibly have reason not to understand what I have done, or to say that any information has been hidden or left out. If my setup works, and I'm quite certain it will, then everyone else who builds this to specs will also succeed. It's that simple. With many people working with the same setup, one can readily see the advantages, because what applies to one applies to all. After the prototype is up and running, the next phase will be Developmental, and that is where it will be so helful to have many people involved. In the Developmental phase, we will be looking at ways to further increase stability, reliability, torque, and rpm. After that will come the electric generation phase, and further enhancements. I will gladly and graciously accept any help that you can offer to this project, Stealth, and the same goes to all our forum members.

Best regards,

Rick

[rickoff]

Reply to groundhog:

Thanks Rickoff for this build thread, I've been watching your progress with much enthusiasm and interest as I had already begun my own HJ motor build! I've not had the time to work much on it, but much time to work in the 'mind lab'. I appreciate your open and 'step by step' style! One of the concepts that I was planning on implementing in my build was to utilize the rotational energy and the existing magnets to generate enough power via a small 'lenzless' or 'reduced lenz' typ coil to charge a cap and then use a small solenoid to move the stator magnet away slightly during the sticky phase. With the right set-up, the initial charge might not even have to be provided to the cap. I've seen an interesting toroidal type coil demonstrated on YT that might produce enough energy to accomplish this task without adversely affecting the rotation. The timing could then be very easily done with an opto type wheel/switch arrangement. What's your take on that angle?

Another question that I've been pondering and will try to implement on my build is the multiple stator arrangement that HJ stated MUST be utilized. I can't seem to find the quote in my research material at the moment, but will post it when I do. He stated that his Magnetic motor required the use of at least 3 stator arms, each containing the 2 slightly offset curved magnets, would be required to maintain the continuous rotation effectively. Have you also found that?

Many, many thanks for your efforts and time here on this thread!!

Rick

Hi Groundhog,

Glad you are enjoying the thread. We're getting ahead a little here, in discussion of the electrical generation part of this project, but your ideas are right on track with how I see it developing. Yes, the magnets on the wheel rim will be used in conjunction with some well placed coils to generate power. That's the basic concept in a nutshell, and I'll be getting into that in detail after the prototype is up and running.

Howard Johnson's concept did require pairing up 2 offset stators, and using three of these pairs placed at intervals around the rotor. That really is needed to get any truly useful rotation out of the HJ design, but it won't be needed for this project. One stator magnet will do just fine here, and that is because I am going about things in an entirely different manner. When you see and understand how simple and powerful my Moving Stator (or "MOSTAT") design really is, I think there will be no looking back at other less fruitful methods. And that's not a presumptuous boast - it is my sincere and honest opinion, based upon what I know and what I have seen.

There will be no criticism from me regarding those like you and I who often work mostly in the "mind lab," as you so aptly named it. That's where all great ideas begin. I simply decided that it was high time to materialize this idea.

Glad to have your participation here, and I will do my best to try and maintain your (and everyone else's) interest.

Best wishes,

Rick

[rickoff]

Reply to Spearmaster:

Hi Rickoff,

Well, I bought all the pipe and fitting and a bunch of nuts and bolts and magnets, and found an old rusty steel bicycle wheel, so it looks like I'll be trying to put one of these contraptions together . I'll end up having to work on it in spurts since I'm also working on other projects. So far, I have most of the pieces cut and the day after tomorrow I'll be assembling as much of it as I can. My magnets should be here by then so we'll see how far we get. Thanks for the build. I'm sure I would not have done as well by myself.

Later,
Carl

Way to go, Spearmaster. I think I have covered everything you will need to know about the build, but if you do have any questions please don't hesitate to ask. I'm working on labeling my photos for the final construction phase, and will have that posted tonight. I wanted to get it all posted tonight because tomorrow I will be heading up north to open my cottage for the summer. I won't be back home until Thursday afternoon, but can still remain in contact through this thread, as I do have a computer at the cottage. When I get back home I will be posting some video that I am sure everyone will find quite interesting and convincing. I had hoped to have the first video posted today, and was all set up to do just that, but then realized that my camera tripod is nowhere to be found. That's because I left it at the cottage last fall, so I will retrieve it while I'm up there. It's pretty hard to try and demonstrate something while holding a video camera in hand, and I don't want to submit any shaky or out of focus video clips. It makes me feel dizzy to watch stuff like that, and there's a lot of it on You Tube.

I'll be interested to hear of your progress, so please keep me posted. And please send me your e-mail address so I can add you to the Pipe Dream e-mail list: rickandlezel@hotmail.com

Best to you,

Rick

[rickoff]

Final Construction Step







Note: I found the above magnet for sale on eBay. It was actually $2, but came as an assembled pair of duplicate magnets.
Hard Drive Magnets - Neodymium - eBay (item 390041745952 end time Jun-02-09 10:59:59 PDT)
Assembled, these magnets look like those in the photo below:


To separate these magnets, you must first place a non-magnetic material between them. Use something of the same thickness and width as the space between the magnets, and at least 4" long. Keep the assembly with the bottom magnet flat on a floor, workbench, or countertop. Then remove the two screws that hold the assembly together. These are usually Torx head (star) screws, so take the magnet to the hardware store and get a Torx screwdriver of the proper size, if you don't already have one. After removing the screws, grab the round separator pieces with a vice grip tool and pull each one away from the assembly as you hold the magnets stabilized. Caution: Remember that these magnets are super strong, and that if you get your fingers pinched between them you are going to feel the pain! So very carefully slide the top magnet sideways along the non-magnetic material, and away from the lower magnet at least 4 inches. Take utmost care to always keep these well separated, and away from any metal objects.



Note: While my mounting block had the 1/4" holes marked and drilled 7/16" from the block sides, you may need to vary this measurement depending on your HD magnet dimensions. After tracing your HD magnet, take a 1/4" stainless steel flat washer and place it centered on the line beside the magnet outline, leaving a small space in between. Then use a pencil, through the washer, to mark a circle showing wher to drill. Use an awl, or sharp nail, to punch a center in the circles. Place the block over a 2" x 4" block before drilling, then follow up with a 1/8" pilot drill and finish the block mounting holes with a 1/4" drill bit. The size of the magnet mounting holes will be smaller, and will depend on the size of the screws needed, so match the drill bit to the screw size.

[rickoff]

Step #10 - Leveling And Adjusting

Okay folks, this is the part where all of the construction steps have been completed, and we are ready to level the apparatus and make critical adjustments. First, swing the stator swivel tee away from your wheel. Lift it all the way up and lock it in place with its thumbscrews. Lift the height adjusting stop collar up agains the swivel teee and lock it into place. Install your stator arm horizontal angle adjuster and stator mount block, which was completed in step #9, into the vertical angle adjusting elbow, and adjust all the nylon screws evenly. Not too tight - you want the 1" pipe to be able to move for proper adjustment. The thumb screws should also be up against the pipe, but not tightened.

Set the apparatus on whatever surface you will be using it on. A workbench, table, floor, or whatever. When you have the location chosen, it is best to place a small piece of masking tape underneath each of the two front leveler feet. This helps you to precisely replace the apparatus wher you had it if you need to move it for any reason. Start with all of the adjusters fully turned in, then adjust them with a wrench as needed so that all four touch the surface with no uneveness.



Referring to the next photo below, which is a front view of the apparatus, place a wood or aluminum carpenter's level on top of the wheel rim (or on top of the magnets, as I have done). The reason I am using two levels is because I wanted to use the digital readout one, but it has a magnetic base so I placed it on top of my aluminum level. The digital level reads to 1/10 of a degree, but a bubble level will work well enough. Check if the front left or right corner needs to be raised, and make adjustments 1/4 turn at a time until level as shown in the photo.



With the front looking good, rotate the wheel to the left until the carpenter's level is aligned front-to-back on the left side. Repeat the leveling procedures that you followed for the front, until level. Then recheck the front and recheck the side until both read correctly when the wheel is swiveled back and forth from front to side. Again, ensure that the unit is level with all four rubber feet touching the surface where where the apparatus is placed. The adjuster screw should be adequately long enough to make good adjustments on most surfaces, but if your table, workbench, or floor is way off being level then you will definitely need to use longer screws. The screw threads should always go through both threaded sides of the tee that they reside in. If you back any screw out too far then you won't have stable footing. The photo below shows a screw that is probably adjusted too far, as an example.


As mentioned in an earlier post, a 2+3/4" to 3" carriage bolt length is preferable, as it will allow leveling under most all conditions, but it must be threaded the entire length. The photo below shows the side view with apparatus properly leveled. Notice that your aim is to level the wheel, not the frame. Note that it is very important to level the wheel in two directions. Videos that we have seen of people leveling their rotor in one direction, or leveling a surface that their apparatus sits upon, proves absolutely nothing, so let there be no question that your wheel is absolutely level.



Now that you have your wheel leveled properly, we need to adjust the stator arm. First, we need to match the stator arm to the wheel rim angle of manufacture. In the next photo, you will see how the digital level comes in handy for determining the wheel rim angle, but don't dismay if you don't have one of these because after showing how I do it, I will explain an alternative way that also works well.



With the rim angle known, I can transfer this to the stator arm angle easily, but before doing so I will level the horizontal angle adjuster as shown in the next photo.



To do this properly, the stator swivel tee must be tightened to the frame with the thumbscrews just as it would be when locked in proper position.
With this angle correctly adjusted, I then rotate the tee 90 degrees and set the level down again against the stator mount tee, and adjust the tee up or down until the angle is correct to match my earlier reading of the wheel rim angle.



To get the angle this exacting, I first move the adjuster elbow until I am within a degee or so, and then use the upper nylon top and bottom screws of the adjuster elbow to tweak in the exact angle reading.
It makes adjustment easier if the vertical adjustment elbow is not too awfully tight on the swivel tee extension pipe, but once the angle is set you should push the elbow onto the pipe tightly by hand, and then install a couple of #6 x 1/2" sheet metal screws to lock the elbow angle as shown below.



Notice also that I have made three marks on the top of the reducing bushing. The center mark is aligned to a mark that I have made on the face of the vertical adjuster elbow adjacent to the bushing. This allows me to remove the stator mount if needed, and then replace it aligned level. Also notice that the above photo shows the stator mount oriented across the wheel in the manner which it would be positioned for use in one of several possible Moving Stator modes. The stator arm would then be swiveled back and forth a bit across the rim as needed to achieve rotation, but more on that later.

The next photo shows how the stator mount looks when positioned properly above the rim for Howard jJohnson or Mylow type experiments. This is also another orientation that can be utilized in a Moving Stator mode.



The observant among you will notice that I had not yet installed the elbow locking screws yet, which were shown in the photo above. That's okay, because I had the elbow pushed onto the wivel tee pipe extension very tightly, but I highly recommend against anyone positioning their stator magnet over the rotor magnets, or any area of the rim, unless the angle adjusting elbow is quite secure, and the best way to ensure that is to lock it with the screws. Notice that to achieve proper alignment above the rim, I only had to extend the stator mount out about 1/8" or so from the angle adjusting elbow.

As promised, for those of you who do not have access to a digital carpenter's level, here is how you can set the stator arm to the wheel rim angle:
1. Take a block of wood and clamp it to the rim. Place it directly on the rim - not on the magnets. Swivel the stator arm into position over the wood block, lock it into place, and then start lowering the stator mount towards the block by adjusting the angle of slope. Keep adjusting until the stator magnet rests on the wood block. If the magnet is fully laying flat against the block, you are all done and can lock up the elbow. If need be, you can lower the stop collar and the swivel tee just enough to get the stator magnet to lay flat on the wood block. Once adjusted properly, lock the vertcal angle adjuster elbow in position with the two #6 x 1/2" screws, and then raise the swivel mount and stop collar to their highest adjustment level. Lock the stop collar at that position, and you are done.

Well that's about it. It took me all night to do this, but I'm glad it is done so that those who are interested in replicating will have all the information needed. I'll be heading off to my cottage in a few hours to open it up for the summer, and hopefully also kick back and relax a bit and think about my next steps in this thread. In other words - do a little pipe dreaming. I will be gone until I return home Thursday afternoon, and will make a video at that time and get it posted. Until then, may the magnetic force be with you all.

Best wishes,

Rick

[Michael John Nunnerley]

Looking good Rick, can't wait to see it going, mine will be about one week as my magnets have not arrived yet. I bought 100 bar magnets type N48, very strong and also 5 stator motor magnets N48 all for 56 euros inc: postage from Germany.

Mike

[Mark]

EXCELLENT RICK!!

I'm a little surprised on the stator magnet alignment unless I'm looking at it wrong. I'm really looking forward to your video. Soon as I wrap up some other projects I'll also be getting involved.

May the (magnetic) force be with you!

[rickoff]

Looking good Rick, can't wait to see it going, mine will be about one week as my magnets have not arrived yet. I bought 100 bar magnets type N48, very strong and also 5 stator motor magnets N48 all for 56 euros inc: postage from Germany.

Mike

Sounds good, Mike

[rickoff]

Reply to Mark:

EXCELLENT RICK!!

I'm a little surprised on the stator magnet alignment unless I'm looking at it wrong. I'm really looking forward to your video. Soon as I wrap up some other projects I'll also be getting involved.

May the (magnetic) force be with you!

Hi Mark,

You're probably wondering why the ends of the stator magnet are not oriented pointing downwards (with the mounting board set vertically, rather than horizontal as shown). It will work that way too, and I'll be showing that in my video, but when mounted on the steel backing plate these magnets are much more powerful with the broad side facing downwards.

Best to you,

Rick

[Mark]

Rick I was wondering if you ever heard back from that magnet company on the curved magnets yet.

[gene gene]

Hi Rick, Great job!!

I would expect that there will be many replications, and many posts because of you're good works here. This leads me to a ?, while following along in the Lloyds friction boiler thread I found myself looking back many times to early posts to find info, (so much). I Know that I as well as many others ended up posting to ask you a question only to find that you had already addressed it early on in the thread. Is there any way of creating a expandable table of contents for a thread? I'm thinking this might help you save time so as to free it up for experimentation. Just a thought.

Best regards to you and yours,

Gene

P.S. don't forget the tripod