"RICK'S PIPE DREAM" Magnetic Motor-Generator

[ren]

Hi Rick,

I must congratulate you on your documentation and presentation. While I havent been following this thread closely I must say that when I drop by I am impressed at your thoroughness and eye for detail.

Even if it doesnt take you where you want to go this thread gets an A + from me when it comes to sharing ALL your build info.

A 5 year old could follow the steps you have given us.


Well done. If only all designs covered the build information so completely.

[rickoff]

Hi Ren,

Thanks for your kind words. I have intentionally made this easy enough for a youngster to understand. That doesn't mean, of course, that I would suggest that a child go this alone with no adult supervision, but I am hoping that the adults who pursue this project will get their whole family involved. I wanted to present this as something that just about anyone with access to a few common tools could build, regardless of previous experience, and at least in that I guess I have more or less succeeded. Glad you have enjoyed this, and do keep dropping in. I have always enjoyed viewing your projects and conversing with you Ren.

Best always,

Rick

[rickoff]

Drats!

I was just about to post the construction steps for the magnet spacer jig, and suddenly my computer shut down for an automatic configuration update. So I'll have to redo the post, and that will have to wait until after I get some sleep. At least my photos are labeled, so it won't take as long next time. Sorry about that.

Rick

[rickoff]

Magnet Spacer jig construction

Hi folks,

As promised, here are the construction details for the jig used in cutting magnet spacers to equal proportions and angles.

I am not advising that everyone go ahead and make up these particular spacers. Experimenters should try out several different magnet configurations and spacings to determine what actually works best for them before deciding on what size spacers to use, if any. Once the spacers are installed, it is much more difficult to try out differing rotor magnet configurations. That said, though, here is how I made up a simple jig from scrap materials that I had laying around:

First select a piece of scrap wood at least 4" wide and 5" long in actual measure. Most important is that the wood is not warped, and that the edges along the width are straight and true. To lay the angles out properly you will need either a carpenter's try-square and bevel square, or a combination square with a protractor attachment. Using the try-square, and referring to the Step A photo below, first draw lines a-b and c-d about 3 to 4 inches apart from one another. Next, measure up exactly 3" from the lower edge of the board, on both lines, and make pencil marks. Using a ruler, draw line e-f through the pencil marks just made. Now, starting at the intersection of lines c-d and e-f, measure over 1+1/4" to the left along line e-f, and make a pencil mark just above the line. Starting at point c on the lower board edge, measure 1+1/8" to the left and make a mark at point g. Now draw line g-i through the marks made at points g and h, and proceed to Step B.





The idea behind measuring and laying out the angle 4 times larger than actual dimension is that the adjustment of the bevel square will be far more precise than would be possible if working from actual size dimensions of a spacer. The angle of the bevel square can now be transferred to the jig, but first we will need a jig. The basic jig is simply made from three pieces of wood, and can be cut out from the scrap piece you just used. Flip the piece over and measure 3/4" up from the lower edge at both ends, then connect the marks with a line drawn through them while using your ruler as a guide. Now measure down 3/4" from the upper edge, in the same manner. Using these two lines as cutting guides, cut out the two strips from the board edges. The remaining piece of wood from the center of the board should now be about 2+1/2" wide, and the same length as the strips. The strips will be placed on top of the board, and fastened to it, and will serve as guides for the 1/4" x 3/4" polyurethane bar stock that the magnet spacers will be cut from. The poly bar stock will lay between the guides, on the 1/4" thickness, so the guides must be fastened 3/4" apart. To make this easy, first fasten one guide to the board in alignment with the board edge. The sides of the guides which used to be the board edges should be mounted facing the polyurethane bar stock. With one guide attached with glue and/or screws, sandwich the polyurethane bar stock between that guide and the remaining one. The fit should be precise, but not so tight as to make movement of the polurethane stock difficult. With both guides attached, lay out the cutting lines on top of the guides as shown in the Step C photo below.



Now proceed to Step D below to cut the jig guides between the marked lines.



Finally, complete the remaining jig components as directed in Step E below.



I actually made my jig base and abutting board from a length of one of the furring strips that I used during the flywheel construction process, but any boards of the described dimensions, and a minimum 3/4" thickness, can be utilized. Be sure to use a miter saw when cutting out the magnet spacers. The spacers fit between each of the rotor magnets of a group, with two additional spacers used at the ends of the group. The method of fastening the spacers to the rotor depends upon whether you will be adding a further layer of material above the spacers, such as the polycarbonate ring which I have applied for a timing track base. As mentioned previously, the only reason why I am installing the track base on top of the magnets, rather than upon the flywheel, is because I want to test the track both with and without the flywheel mounted to the rotor. The comparative results will then point to the effectiveness, or ineffectiveness, of the flywheel. If anyone does go ahead with a track base mounted above the magnets, a less expensive alternative to the polycarbonate ring would be 1/4" thick MASONITE. I chose clear polycarbonate for the sake of photo and video transparency. No matter whether you are mounting just the spacers, or spacers plus an additional layer above them, use nylon machine screws for attachment to the rotor. Since nylon screws are not as strong as metallic screws, I chose #10-32 size binder head nylon screws. Mine are 1" long, but you could use 3/4" screws if only the spacers are being mounted. I used nylock nuts to bind the screws.

Materials I used are as follows:

Polyethylene bar stock McMaster-Carr
Nylon screws McMaster-Carr
Nylock nuts McMaster-Carr
Polycarbonate sheet McMaster-Carr

Holding the spacers, and any platform to be mounted above them, steady while drilling through them and the rotor can be a bit tricky, and securing the inserted screws with nuts is also made a bit difficult because of the raised lip of the bike wheel rim edge. I will talk about the methods that I used to overcome these problems in a later post.

Best regards to all,

Rick

[rickoff]

Pipe Dream Update

Hi folks,

Just to keep you posted on the latest goings on in the Pipe Dream Project:

1. I am getting nearer to implementing my timing track mechanisms. This is by far the most time consuming aspect of the build in regards to design, construction, and documentation as well, because of the several elements involved. For those who decide to implement a tracking system, this will now be made much easier by following the documented steps. I have decided to temporarily apply a length of polyurethane monorail track to a curved strip of 1/4" Masonite. The Masonite and track will span a 90 degree area of the rotor circumference, and allow me to test and adjust the track layout before permanently mounting the track to the polycarbonate base. The Masonite will be mounted to the polycarbonate base, at the start of the 90 degree span, as a fixed swivel point. The other end will be slotted to allow adjustment of the track inwards or outwards to "fine tune" the track for best overall performance. By laying the test strip of track out on the Masonite, I will only need two small mounting holes and screws through the polycarbonate base. I thought this would be the best solution, because the polycarbonate material is expensive and I didn't want to drill a series of holes to attach the track, only to find that the track layout would need to be changed several times before finding the best performance layout. Once I find the best layout to go through 90 degrees of rotation, I can then mark the precise location of the Masonite upon the polycarbonate, remove the track from the Masonite, and then use the drill holes in the Masonite as a template for drilling the polycarbonate track base. I can then move the Masonite to the third 90 degree area and duplicate the template holes there. The second and fourth 90 degree areas will be inversions of the track pattern. So once the first section is accurately set, the remainder will be relatively simple.
2. I have updated the builder's pdf and Word documents with construction steps for making rotor magnet space maintainers, and for duplicating my polycarbonate timing track base. The 7.2MB pdf document now stands at 110 pages. The Word document has been split into two parts, due to the file size restriction of 50MB on the file server. Part 1 is 49MB, and part 2 is 8.8MB. If you previously downloaded the builder's Word document then you only need to download part 2, which includes the latest construction updates. While the pdf version is much smaller in file size, and is certainly adequate to fit the needs of most users, the Word documents are of much higher quality, and display higher resolution photos of the construction steps. You can find all three builder's files here: http://rickspipedreamproject.uuuq.com/archive.htm
3. My primary concern during the past few days has been in developing a downloadable interactive data form that experimenters can use to report data concerning their build characteristics and test results. The form is now complete, and ready for use. You will see that a link to the data form is also included at the Archive section of the Pipe Dream website referenced above, along with a inch to metric conversion table link. Weights and measurements submitted on the data form must be metric. Later I will include an option to specify inch or pound measurements, which will then be automatically converted to metric on the data form. I will be further enhancing and simplifying the data entry procedures in the coming weeks, but wanted to get the form posted as quickly as possible so that replicators and experimenters could begin submitting data. There is a "Submit by E-Mail" button provided at the end of the interactive data form to make submittal quick and easy. All data received will be maintained in a database that will be made available to all. The importance of gathering and sharing this information is critical to the success of the Pipe Dream project, and I strongly urge everyone to make use of it. This will allow experimenters to see what magnet configurations and methods have already been tried, which ones proved beneficial or detrimental, and what new methods or enhancements are planned or currently in progress by other experimenters. As you can imagine, having this information in hand is a great asset to the Project, and will enable us to move ahead towards success in the most logical and efficient manner possible.
4. As there are so many aspects of the Pipe Dream project that require vast amounts of my personal time, I have come to realize that I must begin to delegate authority to knowledgeable and trusted individuals to carry out some of these duties. My first such selection is Steve from Florida, USA, who volunteered for and has accepted the position of data coordinator. Also known by the Internet name of "jibbguy," Steve is experienced at data handling, and the aspects of the Pipe Dream Project, and will be maintaining the database. This will free up time that I can then spend on other Project aspects. I am also looking for a volunteer who can draw up gif simulations showing various magnet configurations and MOSTAT movement methods. I would like to make these simulations available on the Pipe Dream website to give people ideas of experimental avenues they could pursue. One such simplified animation demonstration example that I prepared for the moving stator thread can be found here:

http://q6k2yq.blu.livefilestore.com/...-Animation.gif

Thanks for your continued interest and support,

Rick

[brenie]

Hydrolambda, would that be one of those grants that slows the project down?
I dont mean slows the wheel down.
Lets leave the 'big money' for NASA to play with.

Regards, Bren

[Mark]

Progress

Hello Rick

Just checking to see how things are going, haven't seen any updates in the last few days and was wondering how the track progress is going.

Mark

[rickoff]

Reply to Mark:

Hi Mark,

Between taking time off to share Father's Day with my daughters, and remedying a broken rear spring hanger on my truck, I've been a little side tracked. I am making some progress, though, and will try to post some more pictures later today. I have been making up different timing track configurations on Masonite arcs that I will be testing soon. I am setting up the arc tests to start at the repulsive margin, much the same as in video 19. The repulsive kick will start rotation, and no stator movement will be required until after the next approaching magnet group is drawn in by attraction. Once the second group is engaged, the test variations will come into play. First I will test to see if I can achieve a full inch of stator movement by the time I exit the second group. If that can't be done, I'll try lesser amounts of movement. Later I will try zero movement until the last magnet of the second group has passed the stator. I'd like to try several differing track layouts to establish what actually works best to provide the longest continual tracking. Once that is known, I'll complete the entire track and test it for rundown time after spinning it up to 100 rpm using an external motive source. I'll also test rundown with the tracking and stator mount carriage removed, for comparison. With those results in hand, I'll then add the wood flywheel and repeat the spin-up/rundown test with and without the tracking and stator mount carriage. These tests should reveal quite a bit of useful information, and will clearly demonstrate whether or not the timing track concept is worth pursuing further. I wouldn't be so presumptuous as to expect that this first series of efforts will yield a self-runner, but I am hopeful that the results will at least be somewhat on the positive side and encouraging.

Thanks for your patience and continued interest,

Rick

[rickoff]

Pipe Dream Update

Hi folks,

I'm currently preparing a post showing some more photos of the current construction phase, and will have those details up in another hour or so. More will follow in another day or two.

Thanks for your patience,

Rick

[rickoff]

Mounting the polycarbonate timing track base.

Keep in mind that these steps are not necessarily a build modification that everyone should implement at this time. I am simply showing how I did this so that everyone will know the full particulars of my build.

The first photo shows the underside of one of the arc segments after being cut out.



The three scribed lines in the photo above are made using the same arc scribing tool that was used in making the wood flywheel, although one additional hole must be drilled in the tool. The lines are set at 10+9/16", 11+5/16", and 14+5/16" respectively from the scribe tool pivot point.

The photo below shows the polycarbonate timing track base being mounted to the new bike wheel rim. I should mention that it is very difficult to attempt this unless the polyethylene magnet spacers have been glued to the rim to hold them in place during the drilling. For this I used a clear all-purpose contact adhesive/sealant named "Quick Hold Craft." Once the four magnet groups are laid out in proper orientation, equally spaced from one another, and the magnet spacers applied as shown in previous photos, remove one spacer at a time and apply a thin coating of the contact adhesive to one side of the spacer, and to its rim location. You can prepare one full group of spacers at a time this way. Wait about 8 to 10 minutes for the adhesive to set, then press each spacer firmly into correct position.



If the spacers have been cut and installed properly, they will overhang the rim at the outer perimeter by about 0.100 inch. The adhesive bonds fairly well on contact, as you press the spacers against the rim, so try to align them well before applying pressure. After all the 11 spacers of the group (end spacers included) are pressed into place, go onto the other magnet groups and repeat this procedure. You will also need to cut and cement in some spacers for each of the arc segment ends, as well as 2 or 3 additional interim spacers to support the polycarbonate over the wide gaps between the magnet groups. The interim spacers should be no more than 2 inches apart. Each arc segment end should have its own spacer, and not share a spacer with the adjacent arc end. After all spacers are cemented in place, wait at least 4 hours before attempting to attach the polycarbonate ring arcs. The ring arcs are first laid out in a circle on the rim, as was shown earlier, using magnets on top to hold them in place while finding the best positioning. If the arcs were cut out nicely, the inner edge will be about even with the inner edge of the magnet spacers. If the inner edge of the magnet spacers is not covered by the ring, that means you will need to remove a certain amount of material from one or more of the adjacent arc ends (the arc mating edges) so that the ring will move further inwards and fully cover the spacers. When all is adjusted correctly, remove the magnets above one of the arc segments, remove the arc from the rim, and remove the paper backing from both sides of the polycarbonate material. Replace the arc segment on the rim, and clamp in place as shown in the above photo. The blue clamps are IRWIN quick-grip clamps with swiveling plastic jaws, and are ideal for this purpose. As can be seen, I also used spring clamps placed under the polycarbonate ring to fortify the outside spacers of the group while drilling. If this is not done, these spacers can break loose from the rim and swivel while you are drilling. You will also notice that a C-clamp is used, with a piece of wood, to clamp the polycarbonate ring down tightly against whatever spacer is currently being drilled. You want to clamp as close to each spacer as possible without the clamp interfering with the drilling. This method of clamping is very important, and if not done the spacers will definitely pull away from the rim and distort the magnet array while you are drilling. It is best to carefully measure each drilling location so that it is centered fairly well on the width of the spacer, and located about 0.400 inch inward from the outer edge of each spacer. If the spacer overhangs are correct, that places the center of the drilled holes 0.300 inch inward from the rim perimeter. The drill locations are best marked by placing a sharp pointed awl at the correct location on the polycarbonate ring and then tapping it with a hammer to make an indentation that the drill can follow. It is best to start with a fairly small drill that will start well in the indentation, and to drill through the polycarbonate, the spacer, and the rim with this drill first. I would suggest using a 3/32 inch drill bit for these pilot holes. At first you just want to drill both the end spacers so that you can put screws down through to hold the ring stable before drilling the remaining spacers. So use the pilot drill at one end, remove the pilot bit, and follow with a 3/16 inch drill bit. Drill slowly with each of the bits so that they don't grab and seize up while going through the rim. Insert a #10-32 nylon screw and tighten it against a hex nut placed from underneath. Take note of how well placed your first screw is. If the hole was drilled in the correct location of the rim, the hex nut will fit in nicely. If too far inward, the hex nut can't be started onto the screw. If too far outward, the hex nut will come up against the rim lip, and will distort the scew as it is tightened. Be careful to check this first hole carefully, so that you can make a suitable adjustment for the remaining holes if necessary. Not even thinking about the possibility of the rim lip interfering, I drilled all of the spacers in my first group precisely at the mid point of the rim, before realizing that was a mistake. Since all of the nuts fastening those screws came up against the rim lip, they would not lay flat against the rim. To solve that problem, I cut some #8 finishing washers as shown below, with a pair of nippers.



The idea was to cut the washer off so as to leave the hole mostly intact, but opened to the outside. The flat cut is then placed against the rim lip, and the nut tightened against the lip and the washer as shown below.



Hopefully you can avoid having to do this, although it worked out okay. So once you have drilled and checked the first hole, move your C-clamp to the opposite end of the group and repeat. After both ends are screwed down firmly, reposition the C-clamp so that you can drill the next adjacent spacer, and then the following ones. If you have two electric drills, this will be made much easier because you won't have to keep changing drill bits. When all the group spacers have been drilled, you next need to drill the arc end spacers and interim spacers. The arc end spacers are drilled using the clamping method shown in the photo below.



The interim spacers are drilled by placing the spring clamp at one side, and then placing an additional spacer next to the interim spacer and using the C-clamp to tighten down the polycarbonate ring. When all the drill holes have been made to the 3/16" size, remove the clamps and the two screws from the arc segment. Set the polycarbonate arc segment aside for cleaning, and then start lifting off each of the spacers, one at a time, and arranging them top side up on a table or other work surface. Keep them lined up in the exact order they were removed, left to right, and top side up, starting with the left arc end spacer. The spacers will lift up fairly easily, and will pull away without any adhesive remaining attached to them. Now remove each of the magnets of the group, and individually clean each one. The magnets may have a little adhesive stuck to them which can be scraped off using a plastic knife or popsicle stick. They will also have metal bits from the drillings attached. These metal bits can be "pinched off" between your finger tips until the magnet is clean. Set each clean magnet aside where it can not pick up other particles. The adhesive remaining on the rim can be peeled away for the most part, and any remaining residue can be scraped off. When all the components are cleaned, place all of that group's magnets back on the rim and begin inserting the group spacers. Drop a #10-32 nylon screw down through each spcer, and through the rim, just to keep the magnet array and spacers properly aligned. No need to install nuts - just use the screws as positioners. When all the group magnets are arranged properly with their spacers in between and at the ends, remove the screws. Set the polycarbonate arc on top of the group and reinsert all the screws. Then semi-tighten the two end screws of the group with hex nuts. Place the arc end spacers in position between the rim and the polycarbonate arc, and insert screws down through them. Do the same with the interim spacers. Align the mating edges of the arc with the mating edges of its two adjacent arc ends, and clamp those mating edges together as you tighten all the screws against hex nuts applied from below. Be careful not to overtighten, as the nylon screws can strip easily. I used nylock hex nuts for my installation, but regular hex nuts can be used instead if a little dab of Loctite is applied to keep the nuts from loosening. When the first arc segment is well attached, move to one of the adjacent arc segments and repeat the above procedure. You may find it necessary to realign the remaining arc segments each time you work a section, and the last segment may need material removed from one or both ends in order to fit well with the other attached segments before it is drilled. This completes the attachment of the polycarbonate timing track base. The next step will show how I cut and prepared the Masonite strips for the timing track tests.

Best to all,

Rick

[rickoff]

Preparing the Masonite arcs for the track tests

As I said earlier, the purpose of using temporary Masonite track configuration arcs is to avoid, as much as possible, drilling of the polycarbonate track base. Any number of Masonite test arcs can be made up, and attached to the polycarbonate base with just 3 screws. Only one 90 degree section of the rotor needs to be covered this way. The idea, of course, is that if rotation is started at the critical repulsion point at the tail end of a North magnet group, the stator is already positioned for attraction at the leading end of the South magnet group which follows. No stator movement is required up to that point. My hope is to be able to slowly move the stator during progression of the South magnet group, so that it has moved 1" by the time the critical repulsion point at the tail end of that group is reached. Since there are 10 magnets in each group, that means the radial movement of the stator must progress 1/10" for every inch of rotor progression at the bike wheel's outer perimeter. That doesn't seem like it would be too much to hope for, and if it can be done then it will offer maximum attraction and repulsion forces, since the maximum pole strengths of the stator magnet are spaced 1" apart. If rotation continues through to the end of the South group, then this will prove that continuous rotation can be achieved, since the next 90 degrees of rotation would simply be a repetition of the performance seen during the first 90 degrees. If the rotor is still moving, rather than coming to a near stop at the 2nd critical repulsion point, then rotation will not only continue, but will also begin to pick up speed. So, getting the best possible performance from the track may require many tests using various track layouts. Once the best layout is found, the Masonite can then be used as a drilling template for drilling the polycarbonate base. The photo below shows how I laid out 4 Masonite arcs on a sheet of 3/16" thick Masonite. I started by laying out 4 arcs, but there is probably room for 10 to 12 more, since this is a 2ft x 4ft sheet.



As with other cutouts, the objective is to leave the outer lines of the arcs intact, or at least partially showing, on each piece cut out. These arcs are fairly long, and actually cover an area of the rotor which is more than the 90 degrees needed. In utilizing my first arc, I drilled a hole on the centerline 1/4" in from the arc end to use as a pivot point. If the rotation does not continue to the end of the South magnet group, I will pivot the Masonite inwards at the South magnet group to reduce the stator travel from 1" to 3/4", and then possibly to 1/2" if needed.

The heavy lines that appear at the arc midpoint, and at the far end, are actually arcs drawn in relation the the arc pivot point hole. I thought about cutting a channel groove at both of those lines so that the second and third mounting screws could be loosened and retightened after pivoting the arc for an adjustment.

My next post will show how the polyethylene track is prepared for mounting, and will also show the actual layout and mounting method of the track to the first test arc.

Best to all, Rick

[rickoff]

Preparing and mounting the polyethylenene test track

Note: Once again, I do not suggest that anyone construct a similar track system until I can test and prove its merit. I only show this so that others will know exactly how this was done in my build. I used 3/8" x 3/4" polyethylene bar stock in this example, but I find that it is much less flexible than the 1/4" x 3/4" stock that I used in making the magnet spacers. I would actually prefer making the track from the 1/4" x 3/4" stock, and using #6-32 x 1" flathead machine screws for attachment rather than using the 3/8" stock with #8-32 screws as shown in the following photos. The first step is to prepare a jig to be used in drilling mounting holes through the polycarbonate stock.



Note: If you don't have a drill press, or a friend or relative who has one, I suggest renting one for a couple of hours so that you can drill the holes accurately. Many hardware stores, home building supply stores, and equipment rental stores have a drill press that they will rent to you at a reasonable rate. In the photos below, I am using a RYOBI 10" benchtop drill press with a laser guide that makes alignment of the drilling locations very accurate and easy. The drilling jig must be clamped tightly to the drill press table. A pair of small C-clamps is fine for this purpose, but I couldn't locate my second C-clamp so opted to use a strong spring clamp at the left side, as shown below.



The jig is positioned so that the drill bit, when lowered, comes down in the center of the jig channel. The drilling depth is adjusted so that the drill bit will penetrate the surface of the small wood block about 1/8". If fastening the track to the Masonite with #8 machine screws, a 5/32" drill bit should be used, and I would suggest drilling pilot holes with a 3/32" bit first. If using #6-32 machine screws for the track mounting, a 1/8" drill bit can be used without drilling a pilot hole. The top of the polyethylene stock should be marked off at 1" intervals, starting 1/4" in from one end, to show where you want to drill. You probably won't use all of the mounting holes, but it is good to have them available. The next photo shows the inch markings made on the polyethylene material with a marker pen, and shows the first drill site being lined up using the laser guide, which gives an "X" to mark the spot. The polyethylene is slid into position so that the laser X is directly over each mark before drilling. While the laser X appears as a thick cross in the photo, it actually looks much finer and sharper when using the drill press. The camera appears to have focused on the beam rather than on the jig.



The next photo shows the stock being drilled.



After all the holes are drilled, use an exacto knife, or other sharp pointed razor knife to deburr the holes. Use due caution when handling the knife. Next, it is time to mount the track, or more precisely a section of it, on one of the Masonite arcs. The photo below shows how I laid out my first test track.



I started by aligning the track so it begins about 3/8" from the right end of the Masonite arc, with the bottom edge aligned against the centerline of the arc. A hole is then drilled down through the first polyethylene hole and through the Masonite. The Masonite is then flipped over and a countersink bit is used to provide a recess for the screw head. The screw is then inserted through the Masonite and tightend into the polyethylene. The polyethylene will bind the screw nicely, and no nut should be required. Continue aligning, drilling, and fastening each hole one at a time until the test track is completed. The underside will appear as in the next photo. Notice the swivel mount hole at the left end of the arc (which is actually the right end), which will be used to fasten the right end of the arc to the polycarbonate base.



With this completed, the test track can then be mounted to the polycarbonate base as shown in the last photo.



Looking pretty good here, and all that is needed now is the timing track/stator mount carriage, and the supporting elements. With these installed, serious testing can then begin.

The left end, and center section of the Masonite arc, can now also be drilled and attached to the polycarbonate with #6 or #8 round head machine screws, flat washers, and nuts. A series of holes can be drilled through the Masonite, along the heavy scribed lines, which will align with a single hole drilled through the polycarbonate when the Masonite arc is swiveled, or a 1/2" to 3/4" long slot can be cut on the heavy lines by first drilling and then inserting the saber saw scroll cut blade. A slot will allow infinite adjustment of the Masonite arc. Again, whatever method is used, only a small hole of the fastening screw size is needed through the polycarbonate base.

I hope you have found this construction phase interesting and informative.

Best regards to all,

Rick

[rickoff]

Stator Tracking Carriage Assembly

Hi folks,

Here are some photos of the stator tracking carriage assembly. The parts used in making this are all labeled in the first photo. The polycarbonate carriage is 3" wide and 8" long. The width of the carriage could be further scaled down to 1.5" to reduce material weight. I started with a larger piece than I actually needed when laying it all out.



This next picture shows the inverted assembly with the PTFE sliders mounted in the slider block. The unit slides very easily, requiring only a 1 ounce force.



In the next photo, I show the stator tracking carriage suspended from the slider bar in its correct orientation above the rotor and test track. The bar is not actually mounted to anything in this photo - I just wanted to show you how it will be set up.



The last photo shows the same view but zoomed in a ways to make the detail clearer. The North pole of the hard drive magnet is positioned 1.5" above the rotor magnets as shown here. I will probably try several different heights when testing the track layouts. A closer gap produces stronger attractions and repulsions, of course, but there will definitely be an optimal gap that works best. The test track that is shown here is the same piece shown in the previous section depicting the test track construction methods. This particular test track layout is probably the least likely to work out, since it requires moving the stator carriage all the way through the South magnet group, and that does require the greatest amount of force when compared to other layouts.



It would be nice if this track layout did work, since it would then position the stator magnet for full repulsive force at the tail end of the South group, but I really think that will be asking too much. That's because any movement of the stator, while a rotor magnet group is engaged, will result in considerable drag between the track and rollers, and this test track is set up for a full 1" of progressive stator travel which starts at the lead end of the South group. Lowering the stator to rotor gap would offer stronger rotational force, but would also result in greater drag between the track and rollers. The least resistive force is encountered if the stator is only moved as the last rotor magnet of a rotor group passes by. At that point, stator movement is very easy, but would also have to be achieved very quickly in order to take some advantage of the repulsive force. Maximum repulsion would require an almost instantaneous 1" movement, which really would not be possible with the track system, but certainly some amount of repulsion could be had. If I do need to achieve all the movement at the tail end of the rotor groups then I will definitely switch to the narrower 1/4" track material, which is much more flexible than the 3/8" thick polyethylene track material shown here and will allow for a sharper curve. It may take quite a bit of testing to determine what is going to work out best. I may even try a segmented track, as one of our participants suggested earlier. This would require a break in the track at the point of movement, and a rapid movement would have to be accomplished by other means, such as a repulsive magnet kick. If magnets are used in this manner, they must be located far enough from the stator and rotor magnets so as not to interfere with them, and the repulsive actions would simply be focused at the ends of the carriage assembly. In fact, if the tracking system does not work out well enough then moving the stator solely by magnetic forces would be my second choice in the list of possible movement options.

The only remaining construction step for the tracking system is the mounting of the slider bar to the PVC framework. I'll probably go for whatever appears to be the easiest solution at this time. As long as the bar is mounted in a stable manner, and at the proper angle, it should perform well enough. If the track concept turns out to have merit then I will come up with a better solution for the slider bar mounting later, but I figure it is usually best to keep it simple when experimenting.

Best regards to all,

Rick

[Mark]

Hello Rick

Everything is looking GOOD! From the picture it looks as if your track rollers are touching the track at all times. You might consider widening the gap on the rollers so that only 1 roller is touching the track at a time, this would reduce the friction.

A solenoid operated stator would be very advantageous if the power to run it could be generated off the wheel. I'm going to let that idea stue in my brain for awhile.

Looking forward to your next progress report Rick.

Looks great so far good luck,
Mark

[Justalabrat]

Really nice work!

Wow that carriage is a thing of beauty! Also your photography is top notch!
Good luck on the build.

Justalabrat