Bloch wall shifting generator

[Bruce_TPU]

Hi folks, here is the design i'm building at the moment.
peace love light
Tyson

Hi Tyson,

It looks good! I would only suggest that for your rotor edges, that will be attracting the flux, not to use anything with a hole in the center, such as a washer, but to use something solid. Have you ever tried to stick a magnet on the flat side of a washer with a hole? Just a thought. Lastly, if you are going to use an old LP Album for rotor, they have a 12 inch Rotor. You should easily be able to fit 8 or more pieces on it.

I am looking forward to seeing the final product.

Cheers,

Bruce

[SkyWatcher]

Hi Bruce, to be exact the vinyl record is 11 7/8" diameter X 1/16" thick, the cad drawing is in scale. Yes the record could fit 8 but it may not give the snapping effect, testing would prove that out, but since i only have 4 tin plate discs so far from tin cans i will only be mounting 4, meaning 2 on one side at 180 degrees and 2 on the other side for starters and one coil pair. So definitely no washers or holes in the shielding material here. Here's a pic of the main structure and a few of the parts i will be using. That's an RS-540SH motor in the pic.
peace love light
Tyson

[Bruce_TPU]

Hi Tyson,

You may be right about the 6. Testing will prove it out. I am hoping we may even need more than 8.

I have completed my second coil with its second winding and have added it's magnet.

I also "burned up" my little radio shack motor. My 8 yo son said it was too small...LOL but thought I would try anyway. Nothing but smoke...

So.o.o how about you shoot me a link where I can buy me a motor like you have?

Cheers,

Bruce

[SkyWatcher]

Hi Bruce, yes that motor is pretty small, what voltage were you inputting to it. With mine any more than 2.4 volts is too much. Here's a link to my motors specs and another where you can buy it or something similar. It used to be a standard in RC cars and mine came in an electric plane. A local hobby shop might have them or something similar or an online hobby shop.
heres a few links for ya.
peace love light
Tyson
RS-540RH/SH
RS-540SH-5045
Motors | AllElectronics.com

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, Hi Bruce, hey i meant to ask you what are you planning on using to glue the shielding to the vinyl record. My first thought for something strong was contact cement, though that may be overkill considering the light weight of the metal pieces. I have extra strength hot glue, super glue and epoxy on hand, i was thinking a few dabs of epoxy in uniform points around the metal shield pieces to affix it well, let me know what you think or anyone out there.
peace love light
Tyson

[Bruce_TPU]

Hi folks, Hi Bruce, hey i meant to ask you what are you planning on using to glue the shielding to the vinyl record. My first thought for something strong was contact cement, though that may be overkill considering the light weight of the metal pieces. I have extra strength hot glue, super glue and epoxy on hand, i was thinking a few dabs of epoxy in uniform points around the metal shield pieces to affix it well, let me know what you think or anyone out there.
peace love light
Tyson

Hi Tyson,

I am probably going to use some blue painters tape. Roll it, and make it where it is sticky on both sides. I want to test with different size pieces of Mu-metal (if it ever arrives!), etc., and do not want to have to change out my rotor to do so. I can always make it look good later, and glue them on, but for me, I want to optimize first. Or even hot glue, would be an option, as it should peel off pretty easy!

Cheers,

Bruce

[SkyWatcher]

Hi Bruce, thanks for the info. I almost forgot about the Smith pdf and the video of him talking about device 9-1. They call the shielding or disruptor material diamagnetic which is what copper is to a lesser extent and they recommend neodymium powder or that terfenol-d stuff or bismuth. Now mu-metal or tin is not diamagnetic so this is confusing. Anyway here's a couple of things from the pdf.

The device operates on a fluctuating magnetic field which is produced by a small low-power DC motor spinning a plastic disc. In the prototype shown above, the disc is an old vinyl record which has had holes cut in it. Between the holes is an area which was covered with glue and then sprinkled with powdered neodymium magnet material. It takes very little power to spin the disc, but it acts in a way which is very
much like the Ecklin-Brown generator, repeatedly disrupting the magnetic field. The magnetic field is created by a neodymium magnet in each of the sixteen plastic pipes. It is important that the change in the magnetic flux between the matching magnets on each side of the disc is as large as possible. The ideal rotor material for this is "Terfenol-D" (tungsten zirconate) with slots cut in it but it is so expensive that materials like stainless steel are likely to be used instead. Please understand that all of Don's designs rely on resonant operation and so the coil impedance has to be matched to the pulse frequency used to drive the
coil.

Anyway im working on a couple coils and going to drill holes for magnets next, then try out the extra strength hot glue which should be ok since the tin pieces are so light.
peace love light
Tyson
peace love

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, Here's a pic of my progress thus far. I need to make another coil and make a couple of aluminum shaft pieces to make sure the vinyl record stays flat when rotating. Of course as i eat more lasagna and give dog food to my dog i will then have more tin can tops to use on the vinyl record, lol. The magnet wire is 24 gauge.
peace love light
Tyson

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, its just about ready to do some tests, i just have to put the 1" neo magnets in the hole behind the coils. Of course it may need more tin pieces on the rotor to be effective but well see. Here's a couple pics.
peace love light
Tyson

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, i spun up the generator and i'm not seeing any voltage generated, though i dont have the rotor very close to the coils, if it was im sure id see some voltage. So something is different in my setup compared to Smith's apparently. Though I was thinking about my original setup with the bolt used for a core in the coils and a bolt used on the rotor and why it was more effective. I think it worked because the flux density was decreased or shifted in the bolt core when the rotor bolt approached. Ant thoughts on why this isn't working are welcome.
peace love light
Tyson

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, I started to run more tests and now i am getting results. Now my rotor which is of course the vinyl record, has the tin plates though i put tin plates on both sides so it may be the reason for the way it is operating. When i wire the coils in series so that if energized, opposite poles form facing towards rotor, in this case less output is obtained no matter if i use purely magnets behind coils or i insert bolts through coils with magnets on end. Now if i wire the coils in series so that if energized, like poles form facing towards rotor, in this case more output, almost five times is gained and shows the best gain with bolts through coils with magnets on end, though with just magnets behind coils works ok also. Based on these results so far, i am now thinking that Smith's device 9-1 oriented the permanent magnets to repel one another facing rotor and that he may have even used ferromagnetic cores, though it still seems to work with out them. I will continue to test things here, anyway thoughts are welcome. Here's a pic of the generator being tested.
peace love light
Tyson
edit: oh ya, i was able with this very crude setup so far to get .5 volts from these 2 coils w/ FWB. Though i will next take off one side off the tin plates to see how that may change operation.

[SkyWatcher]

Hi folks, I removed the tin plates off the other side of the vinyl record rotor and it still operated the same but output was cut in half, which makes sense. So the next tests will be with at least 6 or 8 tin plates on one side to see if the snapping of flux action can be achieved, then i will drill holes elsewhere to test the same bolt core-coils i used on the older rig and see how that works with the thin rotor with the tin plates. Hey Bruce_TPU you still out there, hows your version coming. Any thoughts, ideas, tips, help from anyone are welcome.
peace love light
Tyson

[Bruce_TPU]

Hi SkyWatcher,

I am still here, but have been out of town all week. I received a promotion from my company and will be moving in about 4 weeks. My Mu-metal should be waiting for me at home (we leave today to go back). I am excited about your results, and interesting on making sure that the coils are wired in series properly. Very observant of you! Someone less observant may have thought that the idea was useless and may have never tried switching polarity of the coils. Very good job!!

I think we need to determine percentage of increase of core vs. no core.

Also, you may look up the permeablity of "tin", and use another album and try something less permeable and/or more permeable vs. output.

EDIT:
Also, from your setup, see if the SIZE of the piece of tin makes any actual difference. That would be a great test. Also, what size wire for your coils and how many ohms are they? Thanks!

Cheers,

Bruce

[SkyWatcher]

Hi Bruce, Nice to hear from you and congratulations on your promotion. Yes I have been running many little tests to figure things out here. The coils are 24 gauge and each coil is about 5.5 ohms. I made a couple of tests with a coil with bolt core and found that if the tin plate is not passed close to the coil itself irregardless of whether there is a ferromagnetic core or not, little voltage is generated. So it seems that the permanent magnets field at the back of the coil attracts to the tin plate and the tin plate needs to be as close as possible to the coil face to generate the most voltage. This then explains why , if wiring the coils to create opposite polarities and orienting the permanent magnets with opposite polarities facing rotor, there is less output generated from coils. At least in the my configuration when using 2 coil pairs and magnets at back of coils it appears that the tin plates need a field built up on them for best output. Now some have said that the tin plate or bolt as in my old setup was just becoming a magnet itself and generating the voltage, which seems to be the case, however i still think based on past tests that as long as its not fully saturated that lentz will not cause a slow down when current is drawn out. I also noticed that when both magnets are oriented to repel towards rotor that the least drag is produced compared to opposite poles facing rotor. As far as does a smaller or bigger piece of tin make a difference on the rotor, it seems so far that it probably only needs to have enough permeability so as not to saturate for the given field strength its exposed to and that would need to include any lentz fields created so as to not saturate.
That's a few of my recent observations.
peace love light
Tyson

[Bruce_TPU]

Hi Tyson,

I have received in my Mu-metal and have attached 8 pieces to one side of my rotor. I still have the other side to do.

You know, you may indeed be correct about needing cores, we will have to see. I am thinking about making some of my Black Iron oxide powder cores to try or some other material.

Progress will be really slow for me until Mid July, but I will work on this little by little. I am committed to our project.

Cheers,

Bruce