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  • #76
    Hi all,

    Here is something I have been wondering about.

    Let's assume that this system will produce as Smith states - 400 kilo watts (8,000 volts @ 50 amps).

    What additional equipment is needed to get this electricity into useable form for the house? Since a regular service from the power company consists of the large step down transformer to take the 7,200 to 14,000 volts and step it down to the 120 / 240 house supply. Has anyone done any research on where to get these, prices and other needed equipment?

    Thanks,
    Brownsville

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    • #77
      Originally posted by Brownsville View Post
      Hi all,

      Here is something I have been wondering about.

      Let's assume that this system will produce as Smith states - 400 kilo watts (8,000 volts @ 50 amps).

      What additional equipment is needed to get this electricity into useable form for the house? Since a regular service from the power company consists of the large step down transformer to take the 7,200 to 14,000 volts and step it down to the 120 / 240 house supply. Has anyone done any research on where to get these, prices and other needed equipment?

      Thanks,
      Brownsville
      Hi Brownsville,

      I would not worry about putting the proverbial cart before the house. Let's get some current flowing first, and then worry about how to use it. With all due respect, that will be the least of our worries.

      Cheers,

      Bruce

      Comment


      • #78
        Hi folks, Hi Brownsville, the blue rotor was taken from an older project its medium density fiberboard painted blue. I have heard those anchors are a nice material to use. With the 'Real Deal' device, yes that was the problem i had getting the ring magnets to spin freely enough and if this Smith device tells us one thing, that is many of these devices could work as claimed, but without accurate replication and all information to do so, it seems like walking in the dark. Hi Bruce, nice to see your still around. Yes definitely, lets get some current flowing, I would like to know how. My latest setup with the bolts on the rotor again is the best I have come up with so far and as said i can fill a flash cap almost instantly to 7.5 volts with a flick of the shaft, not too bad so far, though not really any different than my original device. Though i would love to know how to get this violent reaction causing a large vibration in the coils that Brownsville is speaking of.
        peace love light
        Tyson

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        • #79
          Good one Bruce!

          I have a solar project I am building over the next few weeks and can't devote any time or resources to getting this device started. I am looking forward to watching both of your progress and will help any way I can from the sidelines.

          SkyWatcher, do you think that this device is based on coil resonance or is it just a simple permanent magnet alternator device?

          Brownsville

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          • #80
            Hi Brownsville, Resonance i think would play a role if a capacitor were hooked up to the coils. I assume your asking about the bolt rotor device with the blue rotor, i have a few possible explanations for what is happening. one explanation might be that as the rotor bolt enters the gap between coils, the flux density within coil/core is reduced and then expanded causing induction. Second explanation might be that as rotor bolt enters gap the the magnet polarity is mirrored at the bolt head and pulls the field through like a normal generator causes induction.. Third explanation mught be that as my title of this thread says, that bloch wall is shifted within the coil/core causing induction. In all cases, i believe that as long as bolt is not saturated that extra attraction occurs on approach due to lentz field which side steps lentz drag. It would be nice to know for sure what is occurring, that way improvements could be designed more easily. What are your thoughts on what makes it tick. By the way it was fairly easy to build, if you want to give it a try.
            peace love light
            Tyson

            Comment


            • #81
              Hi folks, decided to make some tests to see what is happening in this device. What i have found by using a small magnet to check magnetic polarity at certain points on core bolts and rotor bolt, that at the end of the rotor bolt, its magnetic polarity is opposite to that of the neo magnet facing it. Same goes for other end of rotor bolt, however its a little weaker and that is probably due to some non symmetry in the setup. So it seems that when the rotor bolt passes the coil/core that it is inducing an opposite polarity into the coil, which would definitely shift the bloch wall of each particular coil/core on either side. That may be the main reason for the induction or it could be a combination of the shifting and the fact that the rotor bolt is of opposite polarity which reinforces the neo magnet stack at the back of the coil/core. Let me know what you folks think.
              peace love light
              Tyson

              Comment


              • #82
                Hi folks, so here is a cad pic showing the polarity setup in the device and as can be seen would definitely shift the neutral point or bloch wall of each coil/core.
                http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/419...cetypegen2.jpg
                peace love light
                Tyson

                Comment


                • #83
                  SkyWatcher, it looks from your drawing that the block wall shifts from the magnets to the middle of the bolt on the rotor. This shift should be what is producing the flux in the coil. Could you try running a compass along the length of the rotor bolt when it is not near the magnets and then a second pass with the rotor bolt in alignment with the magnets. That should indicate if the bolt is retaining any magnetism and also where the block wall ends up.

                  Wish I had time to work on a replication!

                  Brownsville

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                  • #84
                    Hi Brownsville, i dont have a compass, but i think you may be right and im sure the rotor bolt retains a little magnetism. I think your right because since there is the bolt head on one end of the bolt there is less field built up there and more where the bolt head is not and i attached a nut to the threaded end and the build up of flux there was more in balance with other side. So i would say the neutral point or bloch wall is shifting to the middle of the rotor bolt. I'm trying to think up some ways to improve output, any ideas to try some experiments on my setup, I am all ears.
                    peace love light
                    Tyson

                    Comment


                    • #85
                      Hi folks, wow what a pain. I had to yank the non-removable shields off the flange bearings I'm using so i can remove the grease from the inside. Using wd40, now the bearings are spinning 100 times better. Thought i'd offer that info. in case anyone else is using bearings.
                      peace love light
                      Tyson

                      Comment


                      • #86
                        Hi folks, Wow, a lot of energy was wasted before with that grease packed in those bearings. Now i can maintain much higher rpm's with only light flicks of the shaft with my fingers and it stays rotating at least 5 times longer. Now i can really get a feel for how much drag is on the shaft from other sources other than packed grease and it has very low drag.
                        peace love light
                        Tyson

                        Comment


                        • #87
                          Originally posted by SkyWatcher View Post
                          Hi folks, Wow, a lot of energy was wasted before with that grease packed in those bearings. Now i can maintain much higher rpm's with only light flicks of the shaft with my fingers and it stays rotating at least 5 times longer. Now i can really get a feel for how much drag is on the shaft from other sources other than packed grease and it has very low drag.
                          peace love light
                          Tyson
                          Now that you have removed the grease, add a drop of olive oil. I always buy grease free bearings for any of my experiments. I should have mentioned that much earlier. Sorry about that Tyson!

                          One more week and I will be setting up my new lab! Very excited!

                          Cheers,

                          Bruce

                          Comment


                          • #88
                            Hi Bruce, good to hear you'll have your lab up and running soon. Olive oil sounds like a nice thin lube. It's really amazing how effortless it is now to keep this thing going at high speeds with just light flicks of the shaft end nuts, i can now charge a flash cap up to 12volts very quickly. From the looks of it, that 7.2 volt motor i used to drive the vinyl record should have no problem driving this also, now that the energy robbing bearing grease is gone.
                            peace love light
                            Tyson

                            Comment


                            • #89
                              Dead Thread?

                              Did this thread / work get moved somewhere else?

                              Comment


                              • #90
                                I don't know but it is interesting. there are so many good ideas in these old threads

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