Effects of Recirculating BEMF to Coil

[SkyWatcher]

Hi luc, I don't have a video machine anymore, though I will explain. You've already shown the measuring method and that is heat or calorimetry.
What has made you change your mind about this statement.

#3 if all the energy that is stored in L1 is first going through R1 then that amount of energy will be affected by the Resistance of R1 and will heat the resistance of R1. You cannot bypass the energy that is FIRST going though R1 which IS THE SAME Resistance as R2 and dissipate it in R2 and say R2 is heating more because some of that same amount of energy that FIRST went through R1 was able to bypass the resistance of R1. Do you realize how absurd of an argument this is!

I used two 1 ohm resistors, one at negative input and other where yours was and achieved COP>5 and when placing 10 ohm resistor at output achieved the COP>10. Measuring power at resistors and the heat difference is obvious as your infrared device showed in your videos.
peace love light
Tyson

[gotoluc]

Hi luc, I don't have a video machine anymore, though I will explain. You've already shown the measuring method and that is heat or calorimetry.
What has made you change your mind about this statement.

I used two 1 ohm resistors, one at negative input and other where yours was and achieved COP>5 and when placing 10 ohm resistor at output achieved the COP>10. Measuring power at resistors and the heat difference is obvious as your infrared device showed in your videos.
peace love light
Tyson

Hi Tyson,

from what I understand on the COP>5 test you're measuring heat at the input resistor compared to heat at the output resistor using a 1 Ohm resistor on each side. To come to a COP>5 the output heat would need to be 5 times more in temperature on the output then what is measured at the input resistor.

Is this what you have done?

I do not agree with your test using a 1 Ohm on input and 10 Ohm on output will come to COP>10. You need to keep the resistors the same on each side to get comparative results. Think of a resistor as a hose reducer. 1 Ohm is not much of a reducer and 10 Ohms is 10 times more of a reducer, so if you think about this a 1 Ohm reducer will give you a good flow through the input so if you reduce the output to 10 Ohms you will have great pressure (heat). Does this make any sens?

Let us know of your thoughts and thanks for sharing

Luc

[SkyWatcher]

Hi luc, i dont have a fancy IR device, but with the identical 1 ohm resistors, yes the output resistor is too hot to touch for very long and the input resistor has hardly any heat. It's essentially the same results you showed in your video #8, just with resistors. What I'm getting at is, it seemed to me that once you had your recommended cap measuring setup, that you seemed to think these results were not significant. And the 10 ohm resistor on the output only makes it a little more efficient, still same relatively cool input resistor and scorching hot output resistor. My question still is, do you think your results are significant or not.
peace love light
Tyson

[gotoluc]

Hi luc, i dont have a fancy IR device, but with the identical 1 ohm resistors, yes the output resistor is too hot to touch for very long and the input resistor has hardly any heat. It's essentially the same results you showed in your video #8, just with resistors. What I'm getting at is, it seemed to me that once you had your recommended cap measuring setup, that you seemed to think these results were not significant. And the 10 ohm resistor on the output only makes it a little more efficient, still same relatively cool input resistor and scorching hot output resistor. My question still is, do you think your results are significant or not.
peace love light
Tyson

At the time I also thought the results were interesting. I still have a problem understanding why the input resistor is cooler then the output resistor

Maybe someone reading this who knows why it is can explain it as I don't seem to remember how that worked



Luc

[gmeast]

somethin' has got to get cold !

At the time I also thought the results were interesting. I still have a problem understanding why the input resistor is cooler then the output resistor

Maybe someone reading this who knows why it is can explain it as I don't seem to remember how that worked



Luc

Hi Luc,

It's my understanding that if a system is operating at a COP > 1 (and yours is 5 or even 10) the input resistor SHOULD get 'cold' because it is drawing energy 'IN' from the "vacuum", "aether", "ZPE" ... call it what you will. It just has to appear as an endothermic mechanism somehow.

If you FORCE energy IN it gets HOT ... if the system DRAWS energy IN it should get COLD ... I don't know ... it just reasons out that way in my pea-brain.

Greg

[woopy]

Hi all

I am not sure to be at the right place, if not sorry , and can you indicate where to go .

Here a test i made to recycle the kickback spike of a pulse motor to recharge a battery.

As you can see on the scope shot the kickback spike is very strong almost 150 volts with the small 4.5 volts battery.
The coil is 134 ohm and 1.15 mh

here the video and explanations

what can i do to test more deeply these results

thanks

Laurent

YouTube - motor with kickback spike-generator.wmv

[dllabarre]

Luc

Is the hand drawn circuit of test 4 that you posted back on page 4 or 5 the circuit you ended with?
What did you use for Q1 and D1?

If not what is the circuit now?

Thank you for all your posts.

I love the "Coil Resonance Tutorial" series of videos.

[gotoluc]

Luc

Is the hand drawn circuit of test 4 that you posted back on page 4 or 5 the circuit you ended with?
What did you use for Q1 and D1?

If not what is the circuit now?

Thank you for all your posts.

I love the "Coil Resonance Tutorial" series of videos.

Hi dllabarre,

thanks for your positive comments.

Q1 would be a IRF640 if less than 200 volts is used or a IRF840 for up to 500 or so volts.

D1 can be what ever you have on hand that works best with the voltage range you use. I have a container of all kinds of diodes. I test many of them to see which one gives best results.

Hope this helps

Luc

[dllabarre]

Hi dllabarre,

thanks for your positive comments.

Q1 would be a IRF640 if less than 200 volts is used or a IRF840 for up to 500 or so volts.

D1 can be what ever you have on hand that works best with the voltage range you use. I have a container of all kinds of diodes. I test many of them to see which one gives best results.

Hope this helps

Luc

Yes Thank you.

[synchro]

MO coil.

@Whoppy,

I see 4 wires coming from the microwave oven coil. Is the coil bifilar, or are they just split leads?

The coil core has two poles, and the rotor all poles the same. Do you credit "mranguswangus" for this two power coil, or did you come by it by yourself?

[woopy]

hi Synchro

the coil you see on the video is a normal MO fan motor, from which i remove the rotor and cut the core in 2 parts. So that is only 2 electric leads on the coil. The other leads are to wire the recirculating of the kickback energy of the coil through the diode to the charge battery as per shematic.

The idea of this coil comes from what i have seen in one of Mranguswangus video where he uses a MO fan motor from which he removed the rotor but keep longer legs than what i did. It seems that he could get less Lenz braking in a generator config I have seen this morning on another thread and forum from Broli that perhaps i could get better result if i keep the core longer. So the energy capture effect is more away from the coil. (less Lenz) I will also try this.

Hope this helps

regards

Laurent

[synchro]

Outboard coil.

@Woopy,

I pulled an old outboad engine magneto ignition coil from my junk pile, and bench tested it for polarity, jumping a ceramic ring magnet off the stator ends. The coil stator is E shaped with a shared south pole in the middle, that's twice the strength of the two norths on the forked ends. This coil has only two leads like you MO job. I'm going to try and get it to spin a rotor, to see if I can get your flyback circuit to work.

[woopy]

Hi Synchro

looking forward to your results,
And please if you can post some drawings or pictures of your set up it would be very helpfull.

thank's

Laurent

[synchro]

Picture.

Here's a picture of the coil.

[SeaMonkey]

The discussion in this thread is the re-discovery of a
phenomemon that was observed in the early days of
pulse-operated DC motors: The Inductive Kick problem
which caused sparking at the contacts and brushes.

To dissipate the Inductive Kick it was discovered that
a Diode placed across the motor (reverse biased to
power polarity) would make the motor more efficient.

As the Inductive Discharge path is completed through
a low impedance (diode) the current flow through the
coil is prolonged (Inductive Time Constant) and the
resultant magnetic field is strengthened.

In time this same principle was found to be effective
in the Switch Mode Power Supply, either Buck or Boost
topology.

What you've re-discovered is that an Inductor can be
"charged" by a brief pulse of current (High Voltage/Low
Current); then when "discharged" into a low impedance
a "Power Transform" takes place where the power
is dissipated as a Very Low Voltage/High Currrent.

The "Magic" of Inductive Charge and Discharge.

With modern MosFet driver chips such as are employed
in the Buck Converter, it is possible to drive the Inductor
(charge it) through a High Side switch; then to discharge
it through a Low Side switch.

The advantage of discharging it through the Low Side
MosFet is that it is much nearer a true "short circuit"
than a diode is. Resulting in less loss.

While it may seem like there is a gain in power with
this type of circuit - it really isn't producing overunity.

At best, the "Power" that is "transformed" from Input
to Output is approximately 99% ideally. Realistically,
about 93%.

Unless of course, you incorporate a "resonance" into the
circuit as Rosemary Ainslie did...