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**rave154** · 08-09-2009, 08:00 PM

Do you have a scope or duty cycle% on your meter, can you provide what frequency AND duty-cycle you are using,....if so, i will replicate pronto.

David. D

**rave154** · 08-09-2009, 08:02 PM

ahh, just noticed that informatrion is in your schematic.....

ok, here goes ( once my eyes are properly open ( i work nights ))

**sucahyo** · 08-10-2009, 02:29 AM

Congratulation

. What happen if you don't use those two diode?

I think you can light it brighter if you utilize a spark gap:

YouTube - Spark gap increase one wire lighting brightness

**marseye** · 08-10-2009, 05:59 AM

Originally posted by sucahyo View Post

Congratulation

. What happen if you don't use those two diode?

I think you can light it brighter if you utilize a spark gap:

YouTube - Spark gap increase one wire lighting brightness

Using only one diode, it burned once ( I was then crawling through frequencies, since my 555 is equiped with 2 5Kohms 10 turns pots, instead of fixed resistors).

I still have to try a spark gap, you're right. But I'd like to have one that can be set by a micrometric screw : I've often observed that an analog multimeter shows completely different readings, often dramatically, upon a slightly changing distance in the gap (kind of 'wavelenght'; I simulated it by hand until now)... Do any of these 'accordable' gaps already exist ?

If I check voltage and current just before the diodes (or without the capacitor), any meter reads peanuts ... The capacitor seems to be the key.
It's quite amazing how fast it fills up.

At a constant 1.5 amps draw, the 2N3055 (properly heat sinked) heats far less than when just feeding it @ 1 amps, under some other regular conditions. Seems like it isn't it that draws all of the 1.xx amps, just like if it was enough for it to 'modulate' the current passing by ('in front' of it).

I tryed to charge a car battery, plugged instead of the bulb : it charges very fast... But the psu delivers 2.8 amps then (quite normal, since it's a rather 'direct' connexion, only the frequency being added)
It even works when in series after the bulb, although it's less fast then. But the psu draws less amps too then (1.25/1.33 amps : the bulb only drives the circuit).
Note for myself (cause I must go to work now) : what if the charging battery is first in the circuit ?...

Here were my 2 cents.

**boguslaw** · 08-10-2009, 11:19 AM

Why not trying to rise frequency 10 or more times and actuate a cap discharge with a small spark gap to 60 W bulb (maybe also other device could be used to periodically discharge this cap but it's more complicated)
You should end with fully bright bulb using around 40W or less.
The effect is from fast collapse of magnetic field in large self-inductance car-coil. It is bare bone small Tesla coil

**Armagdn03** · 08-10-2009, 03:38 PM

YES YES YES!

This is good. I have another version where the inductor is completely seperated from the source which you may want to try, as it works a bit better. (spark gaps)

The idea is this. An inductor can collapse, and each leg can fill a condenser. Or you can have the inductor fill only one leg of a capacitor, and have the environment fill the other leg. This way you are "pumping" the charge from the ground! An inductor is the only way to accomplish this as it raises its voltage as the impedance grows, an ideal virtue.

For each unit you feed into the inductor, it "mirrors" itself in the capacitor. This is how don smith did many of his devices, it is also a great example of a transition between a closed, and an open system. Here symetry is found and taken advantage of through earth ground.

If you want to get a bit more fancy, I would consider a different way to use the energy in the cap. The bulb offers a way to circumvent the capacitor, so that the inductive collapse can go partly in the bulb, and partly in the cap. Try filling only the cap, then discharging the cap in the next cycle this way you are getting your max input from the environment.

Good circuit, good thinking

Andrew

**marseye** · 08-10-2009, 04:32 PM

@ boguslaw : mmmh, since I tried some smaller caps to drive the 555, there's a limit that I reached where it was to short to give any result in this 'circuit'. The low limit was reached with a cap around 150nF (I didn't care at the frequency, since I had less and less results going down to such capacitances. In fact, the data I showed where the best I've found to work, as a ratio in/out, even after I tried with tougher caps up to 10 uF). I still have to try a spark gap. Thanks, good contribution.

@ Armagdn03 : I must try one or two ideas of mines first, but being really tired, I won't try much tonight ... But it's good to have alternative ideas to explore. I won't forget about them. Thank you.

**Tecstatic** · 08-10-2009, 05:54 PM

Take a look at Hectors EASER, his diode plug and also the dual switch driver circuit for the Bedini-Cole window motor.

Eric

**Bodkins** · 08-10-2009, 08:14 PM

marseye nice one

I love the ground

**sigzidfit** · 08-11-2009, 03:11 AM

the marsey mod

marseye,

I incorporated the two diodes and a 200V 10uf cap from your circuit into my silly little Interrupter machine. The results confirm your observations.

Upon starting the machine, the cap fills in just a few seconds. After the cap reaches around 120 ish or so, the neon kicks on very bright and steady, and the cap continues to fill until full, at which point if i discharge it into a second neon I get....the legendary "purple flash". This filling and flashing can be repeated once every 2 seconds or so.

Amp draw cant be more than 250mA and is probably more like 50mA. If the numbers displayed were believed to be true the MIB would be here pretty quick. (If ya'll remember from the thread my meter goes whack just by being in the room with "the machine") Can't calculate duty cycle but can be pretty sure it's less than 50% on. Vigorous charging at the output side remains...maybe better??...after modification.

Peace
PJ

**rave154** · 08-11-2009, 06:09 AM

hi all,

i replicated this circuit,,,,,but........ no result on the bulb......however...

for the "earth" im using the "strap" on the copper pipes under the bathroom sink, also tried the kitchen sink itself, also the "strap" on the copper pipes on the water heater.... are these real earth's? as in....."into the ground"???

is there a way to test, using my meters, scope etc.....wether an "earth" is actually going into the ground/ dirt or not?

thanks

David. D

**FuzzyTomCat** · 08-11-2009, 06:48 AM

Originally posted by rave154 View Post

hi all,

i replicated this circuit,,,,,but........ no result on the bulb......however...

for the "earth" im using the "strap" on the copper pipes under the bathroom sink, also tried the kitchen sink itself, also the "strap" on the copper pipes on the water heater.... are these real earth's? as in....."into the ground"???

is there a way to test, using my meters, scope etc.....wether an "earth" is actually going into the ground/ dirt or not?

thanks

David. D

Hi,
If you live in the United States or where there is 120 Volt Circuits, the answer is "no" the neutral is bonded to the ground which in this case is bonded to the cold water pipe and possibly a ground rod and not a "true" earth ground.

Check out a post of mine in "COP 17 Heater | Rosemary Ainslie" Ground - Grounded - Grounding This may help

Best Regards,
Glen

**Inquorate** · 08-11-2009, 06:50 AM

Sigzidfit

Any chance of a video of that?

**marseye** · 08-11-2009, 09:10 PM

Sorry, didn't take the time for a video. But results aren't so great that they deserve a movie

. And there's not much light in my bedroom... I'll try maybe, if I can get better results...

But I'm still quite amazed that it works. The car coil is a cheap used one, probably from an old Ford Fiesta (stickers are not readable anymore), not so powerfull. If I shunt the coil : nothing happens, and the amp draw from the psu goes to a crazy 3.6 A DC...

Please : be very carefull when playing with big caps : mine is a 400v 470uf, and I ca tell you that I wouldn't have appreciated long to touch it when charged at 500v, since I've seen and heard some very impressive 'bang's while being not very carefull myself... Some of my crocodile and bananas are now very 'stained' and burned, where they've been almost soldered together by the accidental discharges... IT's lethal not to be cautious with these !!!

Ah, about earth : finally not necessary at all. It works very well using the negative instead... I can tell, cause I tried, and got no difference.

And: this circuit lights brightly full an unmodified 230v 15w cfl bulb with less than 15w... Maybe 10w only, didn't take any notes since I tried it 2 days ago. Then : yes, even after the 2 diodes, and out from the cap, it's still seen as AC by the bulb's internal electronics.

I've tried with 2 caps discharged each one in turn from a relay : didn't get better results. And more : I don't like relays, because they are mechanical, and I already fryed one in less than an hour...

But I reaaly feel I'm on something great. This might be a first effective step for me, but it's really a great one. And 12v @ 1 or 2 amps is easy to get from good solar panels.

I'm at the moment charging a car battery from a 1.22 amps and 12.3v draw from the PSU, which get out from the 60w bulb's second leg (the one that goes to earth in my schematics): it charges as fast as when it's plugged directly to the same PSU at 15v and near 3 amps... Really impressive...

Hope more of us all will work around it, and contribute to always better improvements. I really hope it's a good start. Found by accident... But found! And quite effective ! Tesla might wave around, drinking beer with God ! Cheers

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