"cavitation pump"

[h20power]

The one thing I like about the pump is it is an on demade type unit. Now with the invent of perminit magnets placed into 3 phase motors and the works of Stanley Meyer almost being solved, I think this pump is worth everything.

When I am done with Stanley Meyer's work I will also build this type of pump for I will be making my own electricity, and will want to get ride of the gas type water heater. I will make the pump's holes from a different shape more in line with the thinking of Viktor Schauberger's work. The whole line of thinking for me is energy independence, so I have to get the best of the best to make sure I will be self reliant in the near future to come. I also think I figured out the hummingbird motor, that is where I think I will focuse my attentions on next after the water for fuel technology.

Best of luck to you and your efforts,

h2opower.

[rileydad48]

I'm sure by now we've all seen the Griggs "Hydrosonic pump", but has anyone tried to build one or has information on "How" to build a similar pump to heat water. ?? I would like to try a replication. I've done some searches and read
the patent, but nothing specific to the actual build.. Can anyone help??

Thanks Paul

Here's a couple pics of what I've got done so far...

[Guest]

This looks amazing
I think everyone here would like to see some tests and some instructions on how they can replicate it.

[rileydad48]

This looks amazing
I think everyone here would like to see some tests and some instructions on how they can replicate it.

Thanks... nenadilic84

I should have the casing and end plates done next week so I can try it out...
The Design Has changed considerablly since I started this. I will post the drawning with dimentions when It's done and tested.. !! Not gonna hold anything back... That's what this forum is for..
Paul

[rileydad48]

[ATTACH]IMG_0132.JPG[/ATTACH]

This looks amazing
I think everyone here would like to see some tests and some instructions on how they can replicate it.

Well. I have all the parts made.. just need to assembly everything, hook up the motor and connect to water and the testing starts.. here's some more pic's of what's happened so far..

I'll keep you informed

Paul

[Guest]

[ATTACH][ATTACH]3871[/ATTACH][/ATTACH]

Well. I have all the parts made.. just need to assembly everything, hook up the motor and connect to water and the testing starts.. here's some more pic's of what's happened so far..

I'll keep you informed

Paul

I'm speechless
Great stuff, I hope every thing will go as you planed. Keep up the good work...

[rickoff]

Re: Pictures

Hi Paul,

Thanks for posting pictures of your progress. By now you may already have tried a test run, and it will be interesting to hear your results. It is difficult to see how the rotor is actually bored, but it appears that the drillings are straight in (90 degrees to a tangent on the surface). Is that correct? The depth of the bores, and shape of the bottoms can not be determined from the photos either, and perhaps you could elaborate on that. I do recall that the Griggs borings were done at an angle, and originally there was a video featuring still shots that showed a rotor set up for boring in a milling machine with the head tilted at an angle. That video was taken down soon afterwards, and to my knowledge has not resurfaced. The Hydrosonic Pump patent states that the angle offset, in one embodiment, is 15 degrees, and angled away from the direction of rotation. Bore rows are made at every 18 degrees of rotation, so 20 rows in all. A drawing of a 10 inch diameter by 4 inch long rotor shows bores that scale to 3/4 inch diameter, 3/4 inch in overall depth, and having a drill bit angled bottom. The patent also says that it is advantageous to make a flared lip where the bores meet the surface of the rotor, and that this produces areas of vacuum between the rotor and housing. This seems to be important in producing what Griggs calls the bubbly "shockwave" effect. The clearance between the rotor and housing is stated as 0.1 inch, which is probably right for water but would be wider if a heavier fluid, such as oil, is used. Rotational speed is said to be best at around 3450 rpm, with an inlet pressure of 65 psi and outlet pressure of 50 psi. It is important to keep the outlet pressure below inlet pressure, or the unit will not function well. There is no need for a separate pumping device, since the flow rate is determined by inlet water supply and outlet constriction. The patent suggests using water valves at both the inlet and outlet to adjust for best performance. I hope this info is helpful to you.

Wishing you good luck with your build,

Rick

[rileydad48]

Hi Paul,

Thanks for posting pictures of your progress. By now you may already have tried a test run, and it will be interesting to hear your results. It is difficult to see how the rotor is actually bored, but it appears that the drillings are straight in (90 degrees to a tangent on the surface). Is that correct? The depth of the bores, and shape of the bottoms can not be determined from the photos either, and perhaps you could elaborate on that. I do recall that the Griggs borings were done at an angle, and originally there was a video featuring still shots that showed a rotor set up for boring in a milling machine with the head tilted at an angle. That video was taken down soon afterwards, and to my knowledge has not resurfaced. The Hydrosonic Pump patent states that the angle offset, in one embodiment, is 15 degrees, and angled away from the direction of rotation. Bore rows are made at every 18 degrees of rotation, so 20 rows in all. A drawing of a 10 inch diameter by 4 inch long rotor shows bores that scale to 3/4 inch diameter, 3/4 inch in overall depth, and having a drill bit angled bottom. The patent also says that it is advantageous to make a flared lip where the bores meet the surface of the rotor, and that this produces areas of vacuum between the rotor and housing. This seems to be important in producing what Griggs calls the bubbly "shockwave" effect. The clearance between the rotor and housing is stated as 0.1 inch, which is probably right for water but would be wider if a heavier fluid, such as oil, is used. Rotational speed is said to be best at around 3450 rpm, with an inlet pressure of 65 psi and outlet pressure of 50 psi. It is important to keep the outlet pressure below inlet pressure, or the unit will not function well. There is no need for a separate pumping device, since the flow rate is determined by inlet water supply and outlet constriction. The patent suggests using water valves at both the inlet and outlet to adjust for best performance. I hope this info is helpful to you.

Wishing you good luck with your build,

Rick

Rick,
Thanks for the "good luck wishes". I have not had the time to test the unit as of yet, too busy at work right now .. I am very ancious to get the mounts made and hook up the motor for testing. Please keep in mind that I
really didn't make this unit, "to produce steam". With that being said.....

The rotor is 7.300" in dia ( this was determined by the pipe I used for the housing) and 6.00" in length. The holes are .500" in dia and .750" deep (total) They are chamfered at an angle of 84 degrees at a depth of .100" from the surface of the rotor. The holes are set every 24 degrees, which equates to 15 holes. Set at 1.00" apart, makes for 90 holes total. They are drilled straight, tangent to the surface of the rotor. The clearance between the housing and the rotor is set at .075" but can be adjust after testing,simply by taking another cut off the rotor.
The unit will be powered by a 2hp 3phase motor spining at 3450 rpms. Will look into a Roto-Verter if the unit works... (Thanks to You)
This is my rendition of Griggs' pump, after a lot of reading, watching videos and looking at other attempts. I put in a lot of thought as to what I wanted it to do and what I didn't want it to do.
As I said I haven't had a chance to test it yet, but you guys (and gals)
will get all the result, weather success or failure.. !!

Thanks again,

Paul

[rileydad48]

I'm speechless
Great stuff, I hope every thing will go as you planed. Keep up the good work...

Nenadilic...
Thanks for the encouragement... I've got the drawings all updated, so if this works as expected and anyone is interested, they will be available to the Forum... So to all the guests... join this great forum !!!

Thanks again
Paul

[Alexicu]

Rick,
Thanks for the "good luck wishes". I have not had the time to test the unit as of yet, too busy at work right now .. I am very ancious to get the mounts made and hook up the motor for testing. Please keep in mind that I
really didn't make this unit, "to produce steam". With that being said.....

The rotor is 7.300" in dia ( this was determined by the pipe I used for the housing) and 6.00" in length. The holes are .500" in dia and .750" deep (total) They are chamfered at an angle of 84 degrees at a depth of .100" from the surface of the rotor. The holes are set every 24 degrees, which equates to 15 holes. Set at 1.00" apart, makes for 90 holes total. They are drilled straight, tangent to the surface of the rotor. The clearance between the housing and the rotor is set at .075" but can be adjust after testing,simply by taking another cut off the rotor.
The unit will be powered by a 2hp 3phase motor spining at 3450 rpms. Will look into a Roto-Verter if the unit works... (Thanks to You)
This is my rendition of Griggs' pump, after a lot of reading, watching videos and looking at other attempts. I put in a lot of thought as to what I wanted it to do and what I didn't want it to do.
As I said I haven't had a chance to test it yet, but you guys (and gals)
will get all the result, weather success or failure.. !!

Thanks again,

Paul

Hi rileydad48, I also very interested your design, so how about test did you got result how is it? and can you post whole picture....

[dragon]

I built a small cavitation pump a couple years back to see if there was anything to it. And, it obviously does work but as stated it is only around 90% efficient overall depending on the motor used to drive it. I was getting close to 200 degree water from it - my motor wouldn't drive it to the point of steam. It was a fun project, I ended up building several rotors for it testing different angles, hole sizes and depths. Most of them ran about the same with only small differences.

It takes a considerable amount of power ( torque and speed ) to run these things so until there is a better method of driving the pump your probably better off adding some electric base board heaters and save lots of labor, materials and time.....
________
Homemade smoking devices for weed#i=78

[wings]

I built a small cavitation pump a couple years back to see if there was anything to it. And, it obviously does work but as stated it is only around 90% efficient overall depending on the motor used to drive it. I was getting close to 200 degree water from it - my motor wouldn't drive it to the point of steam. It was a fun project, I ended up building several rotors for it testing different angles, hole sizes and depths. Most of them ran about the same with only small differences.

It takes a considerable amount of power ( torque and speed ) to run these things so until there is a better method of driving the pump your probably better off adding some electric base board heaters and save lots of labor, materials and time.....

To have cavitation on the holes it is important to reach the right tangential speed (from propeller design it is over 60 m/sec).
The cavitation depends also from local pressure.

Some suggestion to find the optimal design point :

Use a motor speed variation system or spindle speed converter in order to find the best rotational speed
Record Power Lathe Upgrades, DML-CL1-PK 4 Speed Pulley Kit Cl1/dml

Put a manometer on the stator in order to verify the actual pressure close to the rotor during test.

Use system in order to change the pressure (less pressure over the rotor more cavitation) like bypass or valve (only for test because reduce the efficiency - the best probably is to find optimum rotational speed ).

[wings]

To have cavitation on the holes it is important to reach the right tangential speed (from propeller design it is over 60 m/sec).
The cavitation depends also from local pressure.

Some suggestion to find the optimal design point :

Use a motor speed variation system or spindle speed converter in order to find the best rotational speed
Record Power Lathe Upgrades, DML-CL1-PK 4 Speed Pulley Kit Cl1/dml

Put a manometer on the stator in order to verify the actual pressure close to the rotor during test.

Use system in order to change the pressure (less pressure over the rotor more cavitation) like bypass or valve (only for test because reduhttp://www.energeticforum.com/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=113264ce the efficiency - the best probably is to find optimum rotational speed ).

Correction according to the reference document CAVITATION EROSION TEST:
with stagnator vanes, it is possible to reduce the rotational speed down to 25m/sec

http://www.imp.gda.pl/icet/REPORT/Rep02_RD03.pdf

[Alexicu]

Hi, I need your advice guys I am no so good in mechanical aspect.
I want to build to heat green house. It is 20 meter to 18 meter size
and 3line metal pipe (diameter of pipe 7.5cm).
By using cavitation pump is it possible to heat green house?
can some one advice me about size and what kind of material I need to use?
thanks...

[rickoff]

Hi, I need your advice guys I am no so good in mechanical aspect.
I want to build to heat green house. It is 20 meter to 18 meter size
and 3line metal pipe (diameter of pipe 7.5cm).
By using cavitation pump is it possible to heat green house?
can some one advice me about size and what kind of material I need to use?
thanks...

A cavitation pump is not the best method for heating a home (see post #4), and quite likely not the best for heating a greenhouse either. I'd suggest contacting member karl_palsness, who is an expert on greenhouses and could steer you in the right direction.

Rick