The Underground Lab

[Sephiroth]

Bugger... nope, the coils are too close together...

[ren]

I've just had a better idea I've got six separate coils on this thing. I could always disconnect the power winding from the coil with the triggers and then it won't self oscillate (as long as the other coils around it don't trigger it) and I'll be able to adjust the pulse width as well

Hi Seph.

Yes the thing will go into self oscillation upon power startup. I get the most retro funky sounds outta this thing when I place a cap on the input and fill the cap and disconnect, letting the cap self oscillate until its empty. Its like someone running their fingers along a piano, starting at the lower octaves and going all the way to the top

Halls will fix all these problems, or any other form of switching other than feedback windings. Check out my video where I got the halls installed here.

YouTube - Bedini Cole Window motor.

I noticed a significant drop in amperage, and the ability to adjust on the fly if built correctly. At the end of the video I half the input current simply by offsetting the halls a little. I never even tried playing around with the resistances in the circuit either. You could probably get more out of it that way.

Yes you are right about the PNP base resistances joining the sig NPNs collector. You will find there is only so much you can tweak it till it sucks the life out of your speed. At 12v there isnt much room to play, but if you watched my RPM test video which was on 36v at the time I actually couldnt get full speed until they were tweaked, in excess of 1k ohms. So they are important, especially at higher voltages.

If you use halls then it would be optimal to build a timing wheel, preferably with separate timing magnets. Do some tests first, to make sure your hall can trigger properly with the magnets you pick.

Also the schematic is a little different when using a hall. I have never used other methods, but if you want to chase something else, Jetijs has an excellent circuit for his motors, I think he used an optical interruptor? Im sure there are plenty of ways you could do this. Even with reeds.

Good work mate, you have broadened your circuitry horizons

[Sephiroth]

Hi Seph.

Yes the thing will go into self oscillation upon power startup. I get the most retro funky sounds outta this thing when I place a cap on the input and fill the cap and disconnect, letting the cap self oscillate until its empty. Its like someone running their fingers along a piano, starting at the lower octaves and going all the way to the top

Halls will fix all these problems, or any other form of switching other than feedback windings. Check out my video where I got the halls installed here.

YouTube - Bedini Cole Window motor.

I noticed a significant drop in amperage, and the ability to adjust on the fly if built correctly. At the end of the video I half the input current simply by offsetting the halls a little. I never even tried playing around with the resistances in the circuit either. You could probably get more out of it that way.

Yes you are right about the PNP base resistances joining the sig NPNs collector. You will find there is only so much you can tweak it till it sucks the life out of your speed. At 12v there isnt much room to play, but if you watched my RPM test video which was on 36v at the time I actually couldnt get full speed until they were tweaked, in excess of 1k ohms. So they are important, especially at higher voltages.

If you use halls then it would be optimal to build a timing wheel, preferably with separate timing magnets. Do some tests first, to make sure your hall can trigger properly with the magnets you pick.

Also the schematic is a little different when using a hall. I have never used other methods, but if you want to chase something else, Jetijs has an excellent circuit for his motors, I think he used an optical interruptor? Im sure there are plenty of ways you could do this. Even with reeds.

Good work mate, you have broadened your circuitry horizons

Thanks Ren.

I would really like to use a method where it is easy to tune the pulse width. Using the timing wheel Jetijs used would be handy with opticals, but still can't tune the pulse width on the fly. How would the pulse width be tuned with Halls? Can it be done with pots?

If not, I may go for a separate sense coil for the triggering (away from the other coils). In theory I should be able to tune the pulse width on the fly with that method...

[Sephiroth]

Due to my website being repeatedly hacked, I am having to shut it down and move to another host...

If there is any info you want off it then now is the time to get it

I don't know when it will be back online

[Matthew Jones]

IPOWER !! Self owned, Wind powered web hosting.

Matt

[Sephiroth]

IPOWER !! Self owned, Wind powered web hosting.

Matt

Is that an affiliate page?

I'll look into that one... I do like the idea of my site being wind powered

I was planning on going back with the host I have always used in the past... they haven't given me any trouble for the 8 years I've used them so alot better than the guys I used for the underground lab!

[Matthew Jones]

Is that an affiliate page?

No. I just have little to no problems with them, and I like the fact they are wind powered. I have used them for 10 years now. The only glitch comes when they change the security protocols from time to time. And that only a problem on the administrator side, they usually can get me straight real quik.

Good Luck.
Matt

[Sephiroth]

No. I just have little to no problems with them, and I like the fact they are wind powered. I have used them for 10 years now. The only glitch comes when they change the security protocols from time to time. And that only a problem on the administrator side, they usually can get me straight real quik.

Good Luck.
Matt

ah ok... just the page you linked to looks like a reseller page for IPOWER

[sucahyo]

Website get hacked mostly from the CMS software. I use drupal now and it seems to hold better. If the website rarely updated, I think it is better to just copy paste the code from local installation. Real CMS in local, static content online...

[ren]

hi Seph.

Thought this may interest you some, since its right up your alley (high speed energizer).

Its the three pole kit from Rick + John, running on 36v input/output. Really sings along.

Enjoy.

YouTube - 3 pole Monopole 36v

[gmeat]

Hi Ren,

That baby humms a nice tune .I was looking at that last night and also your other 2 pole motor/generator .Nice work by the way .



-Gary

[Sephiroth]

hi Seph.

Thought this may interest you some, since its right up your alley (high speed energizer).

Its the three pole kit from Rick + John, running on 36v input/output. Really sings along.

Enjoy.

YouTube - 3 pole Monopole 36v

Hi Ren,

Is that a six magnet rotor or three? If it is six then that beats the MG1's frequency

What is the power input? I couldn't make it out?

[ren]

Hi Seph

It's a three magnet rotor. Tiny little neos.

Amperage is adjustable down to 100ma on 12v, on 36v I could get it as low as 180ma. The gauge on the video is a 1 amp gauge.

Regards

[Sephiroth]

Micro Bedini Circuit

The Underground Lab's website is offline due to perpetual hacks, but I'm still working

Work on the MG3 began this weekend. It will look very similar to the MG2 but the geometry is slightly (but importantly) altered.

There will be six coils again, and each coil will now be quadfilar (except the primary which will have 6 windings)

This means I need 24 ssg circuits (four for each coil) to run it. Because of the space limitations I had to design of the circuit in a new way.

Micro Bedini Circuit

Four circuits in the space it would normally take for one circuit:



Close up:


Tiny


Testing the circuit with one coil in the MG3 (you can see how much space I have to work with!)


I planned for the motor to run on around 12 watts (but should be able to handle up to 24 watts). So on 12v, each coil would draw around 166ma... split between the four windings and that is just 42ma per winding. The MJL21194 would be overkill for such a small power consumption.

So replaced the MJLs with MPSA06 transistors that are normally used for the trigger side of a bipolar circuit. These transistors are rated at 80v and up to 500ma. Alot less than the MJL21194 transistors but should be fine for this purpose.

I was worried about heat build up, but testing shows that at 200ma (between the four transistors) there is no noticeable heat build up at all.

Very pleased with how the motor performs with this circuit even with just one coil running. Still need to see what the charging is like, but I won't be testing that until the motor is finished which should be within the next few weeks.

[Matthew Jones]

Didn't get you a new Service Provider yet?

I like the mini boards. Everything else works the same, spike size and all that.

Cheers
Matt