Hendershot Replications

[morpher44]

hand-made cap

Now in the video it does not include a 4th copper coil wrap around the L1 is that something new you guys discovered?

Are you asking about the hand-made capacitor wrapped around the cylinder that is placed IN the coil?

If yes, get your hands on those books I recommended. Search the web for them. I see them on scribd and some other sites.
This capacitor is very tricky. There is a aluminum former. There is craft paper put on that to isolate it. There is then another layer of aluminum plating... THICK ... more craft paper ... a longer 96 inch long by 3 inch (or so) foil, more craft paper, and then two shorter foils with a gap between them. These last two foils have TABS on them for connection purposes.
This is a hand-made capacitor. There are math formulates for plate
capacitors. The Hendershot books say this cap should be 7.8nanoFarads. There is speculation that this can be a value as large as 1.3milliFarads. It is certainly not much larger than this given the geometry.
I tried to make this using wax paper and not craft paper and got about
22nF. My attempt was very crude and lousy, using house-hold tin foil.
That foils is probably has too much resistance. Hendershot would
crack open one of his Pyramid capacitors and extract the foil, wipe off
the oil, cut it to the dimensions he wanted, and then wrap them around
his cylinder former. If he failed to get the right value, he we take
it apart and do it again. This is a KEY element of his device.

Here is a video of a guy making one...
Hendershot Generator Nachbau Teil2 - Öffentliches Projekt - YouTube

[RCGUY]

Ok

What about Non polarized electrolic caps?

[RCGUY]

morpher 44

What aboutactually following the video and just doing the way it describes only using the thicker guage wire for the first winding, ok giving that it could be a hoax but has anyone actually tried the schematic as per the video?

[RCGUY]

Morpher44

Ok acording to the schematic C-1 and C-2 500uf caps go directly connected to L1 winding and the caps are placed in the center of the coil windings but in the photo with Hendershots device the transformers are inside the windings, is there a magnetic something happenning in there and possibly the placement of the transformers rotation in the coil is causing a tunning difference of some kind?????

[morpher44]

polarized caps

What about Non polarized electrolic caps?

From wikipedia:
"A non-polarized electrolytic capacitor has both plates anodized so that it can withstand rated voltage in both directions; such capacitors have about half the capacitance per unit volume of polarized capacitors."

In my personal opinion, you don't want standard electrolytic capacitors.
You want AC capacitors with a high voltage rating .. such as 450VAC or so.
Six 40MFD is probably what you need, or you can use
two 80MFD and two 40MFD. Realize that if you have larger capacitance,
the magnet-bar-solenoid oscillations will probably be a lot slower.
This might be BAD in terms of duty-cycle - RMS power.
People have speculated that Hendershot was trying to achieve 60Hz,
being a citizen of the United States.

I have found patents and documentation on a device
called "Vibrator Power Supply", which is very Hendershot-like, and
dating from the mid 40s to the mid 50s. You could buy a Tube-like
device that had a sort of relay thing in it Mallory to make one of these.
It provide a means to convert 12VDC from your car into
higher voltage AC to power your TUBE radio in an automobile.
This tech was no longer needed when transistors became popular.
Search for "Vibrator Power Supply Design".

Old-school stuff like this puts us into the mind of a middle-aged
Hendershot and what he would be exposed to while "inventing"..

[morpher44]

give it a try

What aboutactually following the video and just doing the way it describes only using the thicker guage wire for the first winding, ok giving that it could be a hoax but has anyone actually tried the schematic as per the video?

Sure give it a try .. and report back. :-)

Do NOT, under any circumstances, plug your expensive flat screen TV set
into your device if you get something going.
What you are building should be treated with as much respect
as a high-tension Tesla coil ... if you were to fire the thing up somehow.

What sort of test equipment do you have?
Do you have oscilloscope (analog or digital?).
Do you have pulse generator?
Good meters for measuring capacitance, inductance, voltage, amps,
resistance, etc?
How about a spectrum analyzer?

These are some of the tools you might need as well to
understand what is happening and to try various things.

[morpher44]

photos

Ok acording to the schematic C-1 and C-2 500uf caps go directly connected to L1 winding and the caps are placed in the center of the coil windings but in the photo with Hendershots device the transformers are inside the windings, is there a magnetic something happenning in there and possibly the placement of the transformers rotation in the coil is causing a tunning difference of some kind?????

I feel the 500uf cap in that video is DISINFO and incorrect.
When you connect it it to L1, you have a tank circuit with a horrible Q
value that WON'T OSCILLATE. It will just be completely DEAD.
To prove this is the case, simply connect a scope probe across L1 and CAP,
as they are connected in parallel. Dial the Volts/Div way way down
to the most sensitive setting. What do you see? If you see pretty
much a FLAT-LINE, your patient is dead.
Get a 6V battery and a Buzzer. Get the buzzer going, and bring
the coils of the buzzer NEAR L1. See on the scope how well
it "picks up" the nearby buzzer. You want it to respond and oscillate
with any nearby oscillating magnetic fields. The big 500uf CAP
will DRAG that signal down to NOTHING.

The old picture you must be looking at, and there are several,
with the transformers IN the coil, may have been just Hendershot
putting them there to save space on his desk. These 5to1
transformers can pick up stuff all around them, so by putting
them here and there nearby other oscillating things, they will
pick up too with mutual induction. But, there are other photos
where he had them nicely layed out on the board. So, I would
bet it doesn't really matter where these are placed.

In my opinion, the more important "mutual induction" that is going
on is from the bar-magnet-solenoid. With the BAR NEAR
the magnet, the fields from the horseshoe will spread out
and follow the bar. One side of the BAR will be energized
NORTH, and the other SOUTH.
The solenoid, when pushed near the bar will CUT It's field
East-West (per Hendershot's discovery), creating a
magnetic WAKE that sprays out to the LEFT and RIGHT side
of the bar. I suspect that this spinning WAKE should be SPRAYED
at our cylinders.

Do this experiment. Get a bunch hole-punch circular paper pieces
and dump them on your solid floor near the back side of an open
door. Standing their holding the door, move it back and forth,
to half open, then full open, then half open, then full open, etc.
Observe what the WAKE does to the paper on the floor.
If done the correct way, you should see them SPIN in the vortex
you are creating. I think Hendershot's device is doing that,
but with magnetic fields. If that is true, then the cylinders should
SIT exactly where the most SPIN is occurring. I've have
some older videos showing this occur slowed down and using
compasses, instead of cylinders. I pulse the solenoid at 1 to 2hz
(slow enough for the compass to respond), and I can make
the compasses SPIN. I tried this with two different orientations,
a North-South orientation, and an East-West orientation.
To my surprise, I could make it work either way, but I had to
arrange all the components differently. In other words, because
of the Earth's field, the FOOT-PRINT of everything that is occurring
to these fields will change. This is easily demonstrated.
So, I reason that if you put a COIL where I had the compasses,
the COIL would generate power because it is seeing a
spinning field (like a virtual spinning magnet inside it).
Yet, what is wonderful about this approach is there is no friction.
You don't have to mechanically move these big coils or a big magnet.

So step 1 might be to not worry about the coils and capacitors so
much and instead to experiment JUST with the solenoid - bar - magnet.
You want to make them balanced so that the solenoid exactly
can match the magnet with the least amount of current.
With a solenoid, one degree of freedom you have to keep current
low for the same magnetic field is to increase the number of turns.
Another is to use a very special metal. Instead of IRON, you could use
permalloy (k=8000) or mumetal (k=20000). Iron is k=200.
So in other words, with more expensive solenoids here utilizing
state-of-the-art metals, you could probably get the solenoid
to FIGHT the magnet with far less current.
If you are using steel, that could be bad because steel probably
has a k far less than IRON ... and hence you would need MORE
current to fight the magnet. If you choose a really really STRONG
magnet, you've made your life much harder because the solenoid
will need to SCALE to your STRONG magnet.

Magnet - Compass - Solenoids (Hendershot Mystery) - YouTube

This is good stuff too:
Hendershot solenoid bar test - YouTube

See the "first" posts of this thread and read forward. Lots of info.

[morpher44]

Honeycomb

"Well, Honeycomb, won't ya be my baby, Honeycomb be my own"

Do any of you know if a honeycomb coil produces a larger magnetic field
or not?
I made a little honeycomb coil, placing 2 rows of 17 equally space
toothpicks around the "toliet paper roll" 1 5/8 in diameter and wound a 30AWG coil with 100
turns. The toothpicks are spaced .25 inch apart, to match a
ring magnet I have.

With a POT and 2 D-Cells, I can control the amount of current thru the
coil and then measure the magnetic field with my cell phone.
current uTeslas Watts
----------------------------------
1E-3 56.23 3E-3
12.56E-3 57.3 37.68E-3
80.5E-3 62.34 241.5E-3
190.2E-3 72.79 570.6E-3
233.6E-3 80.7 760.8E-3

I then tried a standard solenoid style coil, 180 turns, much bigger wire,
longer length... Pumping LARGE amounts of current thru didn't yield
much at all in terms of magnetic field. Air coils... doh!

The properties of honeycomb coils are interesting. Btw, I used my
magic formula to determine how many PEGS to put around
the circumference ... using PHI and the pyramid angle.
The shape looks intuitively natural with little wire diamonds
that look like something nature would create.

The ring magnet has a north face and a south face, a hole in the
center, and EAST-WEST are around the circumference.
So the honeycomb coil would need to be wound as a LARGER
ring around it -- to cut east-west.

It occurs to me that if the magnet was on an axis, and possible
off kilter a bit, that it might spin -- with DC voltages or pulsed DC ...
not sure.

To do this with very tiny currents, you will need lots and lots of turns.
The coil face looks like a pancake coil, but from the side you see
the wire diamonds.

I'm searching for more evidence that this style coil yields a larger
magnetic field...

[MonsieurM]

"Well, Honeycomb, won't ya be my baby, Honeycomb be my own"


I'm searching for more evidence that this style coil yields a larger
magnetic field...

Honeycomb Shape:



MetaTron's cube:




http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metatron's_Cube



http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saturn's_hexagon

Optics InfoBase: Optics Express - Unidirectional broadband radiation of honeycomb plasmonic antenna array with broken symmetry

[Gazzasore]

And the flower of life

[morpher44]

honey comb picture

http://www.overunity.com/8878/fibona...ch/73388/image

Honeycomb coil former.
You can just have 2 pegs per row, and wire this various ways.
There can be many different ways to do this. I think the wire-crossing
angle should adhere to the pyramid angle of 51 degrees, 50 min.
So in other words, you have 2 pegs per row. The distance from one row
to the next, let us call that X and the distance between pegs, call that Y.
Pick and X and Y such that tan(51.8333) = X/Y.
The style I think might be a good one just goes over one, under one,
over one, under one, creating a diamond shape around the pegs,
which is a very Walter Russell idea.

[morpher44]

proof of concept -- WORKS!

I hope to make a video soon ... but I think I have a working theory
now for the Hendershot Motor.

The experiment is simple. First, on youtube, search for "spinning ring magnet".
One video you will find is a guy holding a thread with a ring on it.
As he brings the ring towards the magnet on the ground, the ring spins.
I was wondering if the ring needs to be pre-magnetized. Certainly
it probably would help.

Free energy magnet motor proof of concept ring magnet simplest test power generator - YouTube

So lets engineer this. Lets replace the magnet on the ground with
a COIL -- wired to itself, with its business end facing up to the magnet.
Not just any coil, however, lets use a nice honeycomb coil.

Lets replace the ring with a ring-magnet.

Carefully dangle the ring magnet down towards the coil.
There is a "sweet spot" that you are searching for.
If you find it, the magnet will SPIN, the coil will induce current,
and ADD to the SPIN up to some equilibrium point.

Now what is a little flawed in this proof of concept is that the thread
will get tighter and tighter as it is coiled up, producing larger and
larger friction. After N spins, at some point the thread is too coiled
up and the drag is too much for the magnet to overcome.

Also, if the magnet is wiggling too much, it will start to bounce off
of the sides of the coil -- if too close -- and everything goes hay-wire.

But ... it can be done ... and it works. OMG!!!

[Dave45]

That same spin is what Hendershot was picking up with his solenoids
JK Plasma Magnetics Experiment 1 - YouTube

[morpher44]

Honeycomb - Ring Magnet Experiment

Hendershot Motor Mystery - "Honeycomb Coil Experiment" - YouTube

In addition to what you see here, I tried connecting up my oscilliscope
to the coil to see what occurs when I spin the magnet. Funny thing is,
the scope "powers" the coil, and the magnet is affected. So much
for a "passive" measuring device ... and this also shows how subtle
this thing is in.

This was a fun little "easy" project. To go much more "sciency" on this
thing, you would ideally figure out what sort of field you could create
with what sort of current with these honeycomb coils. I don't know
how to get this data other than making various coils with various
numbers of turns, and then sitting down and measuring them.
The cellphone approach can probably be used to measure fields up
to some limit. Recording all this data might give a clue to know
what to extrapolate to in terms of a much more MASSIVE coil.
Further, if the coil had a IRON ring, or better metal -- mumeal,
that would boost the field it creates substantially -- instead of air
coil approach. So this idea can be refined such that less and less
power can create a strong and stronger field -- or INDUCE a current
in the other direction. There are possibilities here. Further the magnet
should be on a friction-less axis, w/o the drag of a thread winding up.

[Gazzasore]

Looking good
Hey if you get a couple of fishing line swivels glue one to the side of the Magnet tie it to the string and also have a swivel at the top end you would see if it keeps turning one way