Hendershot Replications

[morpher44]

components...

Hi guys regarding this schematic how much capacitance and voltage are the big caps?
and what's coil D? baskets have three coils no?
Thanks

The AC caps are labled here on the schematic you posted.
80MFD ... and 40MFD.
I think what has not been fully worked out is WHY you need
these values of capacitance. These would be appropriate
for "motor" and or "relay" speeds ... i.e. low frequency.
But I ask myself ... why can't I use 30MFD instead?
I was able to find 30MFD caps, but not 40MFD or 80MFD.
I searched and searched several times in a surplus store.
These are expensive.
Re: voltage rating of these caps. The bigger the better probably.
So 200VAC to 450VAC say.
These are pretty dangerous caps, btw. If one was sitting on your
bench FULLY charged ... it has lots and lots of joules of power
in it. If you were to forget and reach over and touch the contacts
by mistake, you could really get hurt. So always short them out
when handling them ... and keep them shorted when stored.
Give them as much respect as you would an open knife.

On the Hendershot coil, 3 of them are wound in the basket weave style,
and coil D in your diagram is wound AROUND the lower 64-turn one.
I think you wrap that lower one with some tape first, and then wrap
coil D on it.

[Guruji]

The AC caps are labled here on the schematic you posted.
80MFD ... and 40MFD.
I think what has not been fully worked out is WHY you need
these values of capacitance. These would be appropriate
for "motor" and or "relay" speeds ... i.e. low frequency.
But I ask myself ... why can't I use 30MFD instead?
I was able to find 30MFD caps, but not 40MFD or 80MFD.
I searched and searched several times in a surplus store.
These are expensive.
Re: voltage rating of these caps. The bigger the better probably.
So 200VAC to 450VAC say.
These are pretty dangerous caps, btw. If one was sitting on your
bench FULLY charged ... it has lots and lots of joules of power
in it. If you were to forget and reach over and touch the contacts
by mistake, you could really get hurt. So always short them out
when handling them ... and keep them shorted when stored.
Give them as much respect as you would an open knife.

On the Hendershot coil, 3 of them are wound in the basket weave style,
and coil D in your diagram is wound AROUND the lower 64-turn one.
I think you wrap that lower one with some tape first, and then wrap
coil D on it.

Thanks Morpher oh ok now I saw another schematic yes 40 to 80mf on the other says.
Did you try this circuit?
Thanks.

[dr.resist]

i have read the entire thread quickly but i could not catch what i needed
about the Hendershot circuit, can anyone tell me what is the voltage of the 2 types capacitors
and since its hard to find nonpolar ones, can anyone tell me how to make a nonpolar capacitor with certain capacity (500 & 1000 uf) and voltage (which i am asking about)

thanks

[morpher44]

cap voltage ratings.

i have read the entire thread quickly but i could not catch what i needed
about the Hendershot circuit, can anyone tell me what is the voltage of the 2 types capacitors
and since its hard to find nonpolar ones, can anyone tell me how to make a nonpolar capacitor with certain capacity (500 & 1000 uf) and voltage (which i am asking about)

thanks

See #556 above. I just answered that question.
I wouldn't get too hung up on voltage ratings.
Let us suppose you substituted a cap that was rated at a much
smaller rating ... say 20 volts. And let us also say that you
managed to succeed with the device and started to pump 120VAC
thru it... What would happen to the caps? BOOM! They would
pop open, possibly sending matter in all directions. Eye
protection a must.
But hey .. experiment confirmed ... something happened...
Let us suppose you went the other extreme and got capacitors
that were rated way too high ... capable of withstanding 1000VAC
or more. This would be over kill yes ... and probably expensive too ...
but assuming you can find them at 40MFD and 80MFD ... I say
WHY NOT?

As to MAKING such capacitors. I doubt very much you could make
them. The DIY capacitors people make, such as salt-water
capacitors, or foil plate capacitors are physically SMALL and have
small capacitance... No where NEAR 40MFD. We are talking
nanoFarads or smaller for home made capacitors.
A Farad is a very large measurement. So 40 x 10-3 Farads is
a HUGE value and requires lots and lots of foil ... stuffed into
a pretty large container ... with dielectric material that is pretty
exotic. Read up on home made capacitors and you will see there
are some pretty difficult things to overcome.

Hendershot's home-made capacitors have a value of 7.8nanoFarads.
He PURCHASED his 40MFD and 80MFD caps .. and didn't make those.

[morpher44]

did I try the circuit?

Thanks Morpher oh ok now I saw another schematic yes 40 to 80mf on the other says.
Did you try this circuit?
Thanks.

In the Barry Hilton book there are several proposed circuits -- with subtle
difference. No one has the "real" schematic since Hendershot
committed suicide and never revealed it such that it could be published.
His son put some of his notes, and so forth out, but there are many
details missing that need to be worked out.

I have messed around with parts of the schematic, and essentially
what amounts to only half one of the circuits. I did experiments that
were "powered" and made a few videos showing various things.
There are a set of mysteries here to solve.
I have convinced myself that Hendershot was not a hoaxer.
He appears to have made very "intelligent" decisions about the
design such as:
* basket weave / honeycomb coils for more ideal inductance --
less self capacitance
* special hand-made "variable" capacitor at 7.8nF for "tuning"
* bar-magnet-solenoid -- which may be doing magnetometer function
* coils arrange to change PHASEs and/or step-up/down
* capacitors to phase shift, smooth, store power, etc.
I look at what he was doing and see that there is real promise here ...
although this is a very UNSTABLE machine.
It would be better to work out the principals involved, and then
attempt to re-build a different design using MODERN electronics
and MODERN physics with our latest understanding of circuit analysis,
modeling, and modern parts, etc.

Replicating Hendershot's circuit is useful just to gain an understanding
of what might be going on here ... and to get an insight into some
of the challenges involved.

Recently I've come to the conclusion that STEEL is no good
(unless its electric steel - laminated), for the solenoids. So I have
to re-think how to make these.. Further, if it is a magnetometer,
there are possibly DIFFERENT geometries that can be tried that
are more ideal rather than two counter-opposing solenoids.
There is something "SPECIAL" about the vibrating magnet in
the field of a magnetometer. It feels really weird -- and done with
low power. I tried 428Hz last night. Interesting.
Also, if you put the magnets on a diaphram of plastic or other
vibratory material, you can get the magnet to produce SOUND --
like a speaker.
Also, if you lean the BAR, unattached, up against the solenoids,
and dial down a low frequency, you can get the BAR to semi-stick
to it. Now move a horse shoe magnet slowly toward the bar,
and you can hear the audio tones. Pin the bar behind something
so that it can't FLY toward the magnet, and let the magnet approach
even more .. and the BAR will bounce back and forth toward magnet,
and then toward solenoid, making a horrible racket.
There is a POTENTIAL here when in this mode, because when
you SNAP a metalic object OFF a magnet (or solenoid), there
is a big BACK EMF pulse. Study the Leedskalnin Perpetual Motion
Holder, for example. So one possible way is to get this bar to oscillate
between the magnet and solenoid, and have it actually physically
bounce between them, making and breaking contact.
This is a little bit tricky to make mechanically. It is like a relay -- sort of
-- but described more as an AIR-GAP.
If you put the "IRON" bar in little rubber holders that are flexible,
giving it some play between magnet and solenoid, it could probably
be put into oscillation and made to bounce between them. If there
was a central pivot point, you could make it bounce in a see-saw
fasion... There are many many possibilities here.

[morpher44]

Changing Hendershot's Solenoid to Magnetometer

Here are some notes on how to change the Hendershot Solenoid
into a Magnetometer.

What you need to do:

* 2 "soft-iron" rods. A large cross-sectional diameter is good,
but you probably want something that physically MATCHES
the size of your horse shoe magnet (or other type of magnet).
I would say a 3 to 4 inches in length and perhaps .5 inch or
greater in diameter would be good. DO NOT USE STEEL.
You might be able to HARVEST "electric-steel/laminated" from
an older transformer for this purpose.
* Wind each core with magnetic wire. The more turns the better --
up to some limits. We don't want too much resistance ...
and we also don't want too few turns. You can work out
exactly how many turns you need to produce a certain
magnetic field @ a certain current. If your trying to FIGHT a magnet
that is pretty powerful, this will make it more difficult for you.
So lets say your magnet is 3mTesla. You want to create solenoids
that can produce 3mTesla as well, with the smallest amount of
current. Your degrees of freedom here are number of turns,
ferro material, current, diameter, etc.
I think about 200 turns of 20AWG is the minimum amount. 400 turns
would probably be better... or even more if you can manage it.
The length of the solenoid shouldn't be too long.
The solenoids are wound such that one will be NORTH, and one
will be SOUTH at the magnet side when a DC current is applied.
There are two ways of doing this -- with coils wound in same
direction or opposite direction. I'm not sure if it matters, but it may.
Some experimenting needed to work out which is best.
* Now, to make this a magnetometer, all you need to do is wind
ANOTHER coil around BOTH solenoids. This coil is the "sensing" coil,
and should also have many many windings. I used about 160 feet
of 20AWG magnetic wire .. and kept winding until the spool emptied.

The solenoids can be pulsed with an appropriate signal-generator
circuit. The sensing coil can be connected to a SCOPE and you
can observe the interesting phenomenon that occurs when you
move a magnet NEARBY this HUGE magnetometer.
If you pulse the solenoids at say 7.8 Hertz upwards to 1khz or
even higher, you can hear audio tones coming OFF of the magnet
as it approaches the solenoid. If you hold the magnet, you
can feel the unusual vibrations at the various frequencies.
Place a soft iron BAR between the magnet and the solenoid,
and experiment with what occurs when that object is between them.

Another useful tip.
You can wire the solenoid with a TEST winding of some number of turns.
Connect your solenoid to a battery and variable resistor and current meter.
Measure the magnetic field at various current points such as 1ma, 2ma, 10ma,
50ma, 100ma, 500ma, etc. You can measure the magnetic field produced
using a cell phone. Enter this data into a spread sheet and produce a graph.
There will be LINEAR parts of this curve. Using the formula for a LINE you can
work out how much current you need to produce how much magnetic field.
From this you can extrapolate how many turns you might need ... and try
again ... and so forth...

[Spokane1]

Hendershot Device Tid Bits

Gentlemen,

Here are some technical tid bits from my observation of the Hendershot technology over the years.

1. Mr. Hendershot's son Mark lives about 120 miles north of here. He is an electrician by trade and spent the better part of four years (late 70's)attempting to reporduce his father's work with no sucess. He probably had access to notes, drawings, and photos that have never been published and he still couldn't get it to function. Conclusion: There is a lot more to this device than what meets the eye.

2. Peter Lindemann chaims that Mr Skilling built at least three replication devices. Mr. Hendershot came for a visit and was able to start all three. However, when he left all three devices ceased functioning. This strongly points of a psi variable that will be difficult to crack.

3. The common schematic diagram of the large Hender shot capacitor is not shown technically correct when the actual construction details are reviewed. The original was suppose to be a rewound twin electrolytic caacitor. That means that there are three "plates" involved, 2 small and 1 large. The leads connect to the two smaller plates while the common larger plate is isolated and floats. This configuration has a major impact upon its operation. It is no longer a simple classical capacitor, but a complex electrostatic delay line.

4. Don't overlook the paraffin that was used to pot the windings of the coils. Paraffin happens to have interesting NMR properties. It was the first substance to display the phenomena of RF emission as a result of stimulated electron spin manipulation. Thus starting the whole MRI industry. It is my speculation the either paraffin or some other suitable dielectric is critical to this technology.

5. Don't overlook the door bell buzzer and the external applied magnetic field. Even though the arc/spark produced was small this combination of hardware has the ingrediants to produce a very fast -di/dt wave form. The system disrupts the current flowing in the buzzer coild when it is at maximum. The contacts then spread apart which means that the small arc is being streatched while maintaining this maximum current (which is small) under the influance of a medium external magnetic field. The result is a very abrupt quench (about 20 ns). This technigue is also used in high power vacuum interupters. Check out the Imhotep device and get a feel for how a low power mechanical arc can do some interesting things, but not consistantly.

6. According to Mr. Art Ahoe in private converstation in 1971, another writer on the Hendershot technology, some or all of the coils employed IRON wire. I don't know which ones.

7. It has been written that Mr. Hendershot swapped out his 1 lb. coffee can coil forms for 5.25" stainless steel cylindars because the electrolyte from the modified capacitors were casuing corrision. Years later Mark hendershot wrote a detailed construction sequence about how to make the custom capacitor. This included washing the electrolyte from the capacitor plates. I have always wondered, if the electrolyde was removed during construction then corrosion would have not been a issue in the first place. I suspect that the electrolyte is still employed in the modified capacitor format and with out it the system will not work. I suspect the Mark Hendershot is incorrect on this point.

8. Consider checking with John Bedini. He has some first hand experiance with Mr. Hendershot in California years ago. In fact John explored using a Hendershot basket weave coil as part of his motor system 5 years ago. As far as I know there was no improvement in the application he was testing it for.

9. It is my understanding that a 9 volt battery was used to start the Hendershot oscillator. It just baffeles me how anyone could come up with a circuit that was so hard to start (up to 9 hours of attempts) and make it work. It would be nice to see just what the original development circuits were like or what this technology was really based on. This is almost PFM.

10. Never the less, The Hendershot device has many elements that are are found in the E.V. Gray "Black Box" oacillator. I suspect the two technologies are very closely related.

Mark McKay, PE

[morpher44]

some thoughts on Mark McKay's post...

>2. Peter Lindemann chaims that Mr Skilling built at least three replication
>devices. Mr. Hendershot came for a visit and was able to start all three.
>However, when he left all three devices ceased functioning. This strongly
>points of a psi variable that will be difficult to crack.

What I find "fun" about this point is you can use Occam's razor
to debunk a psyop. Usually its the other way around.

>3. The common schematic diagram of the large Hendershot capacitor is not
>shown technically correct when the actual construction details are
>reviewed. The original was suppose to be a rewound twin electrolytic
>caacitor. That means that there are three "plates" involved, 2 small and 1
>large. The leads connect to the two smaller plates while the common larger
>plate is isolated and floats. This configuration has a major impact upon its
>operation. It is no longer a simple classical capacitor, but a complex
>electrostatic delay line.

This hand made capacitor, missing from the recent "hoax" video,
does appear to be a "crucial" part of the mystery.
Is it a Ghz antenna or does it contain some material to increase capacitance?
The former would explain the dimensions of the cylinder.
The latter might explain the so called "carbon" material he added.
I recall the description of the electrolytic material, oil, being carefully
REMOVED from the foil -- wiped off. So this would argue that he is
attempting to make a simple PLATE antenna w/o electrolytic enhancements.
Further, the math for a plate capacitor works out nicely for 7.8nF,
if you assume 1 sheet WAX-PAPER or several thicknesses of Kraft paper.
There is also the mysterious note with the value 1.3MFD scribbled on
it by Lester. This would be an appropriate value if electrolytic material
was left IN. Bigger capacitance would tune for lower frequencies -- but
also serves as a sort of SPEED-LIMIT for faster frequencies.
So bigger capacitance would not be appropriate for Ghz reception..
and conversion to lower frequencies via self resonance. You would need
a more modest capacitance.
I am skeptical that the 3 plate business matters.
Current can flow from small plate, to big plate, to other small plate,
as if you essentially had 2 plates that were long.
The effects of ROLLING the capacitor up may cause additional
complexity if the plate distances are equal through out. They may not be.
There may be thicker paper on the outside so that the capacitance
thru this thicker paper is minimized in favor of the thinner cap between
the proper plates.
There is further a plate of aluminum beyond this and
arranged on the outer - coil side. This seems novel in that
it can handle ARCing ... and also shields nicely.

>4. Don't overlook the paraffin that was used to pot the windings of the
>coils. Paraffin happens to have interesting NMR properties. It was the first
>substance to display the phenomena of RF emission as a result of stimulated
>electron spin manipulation. Thus starting the whole MRI industry. It is my
>speculation the either paraffin or some other suitable dielectric is critical to
>this technology.

I doubt paraffin will have too much effect. Rather, in the old radio days,
people would make coils, "tune" everything, then seal it all up in
paraffin so as to keep this tuning, and allow the system to be handled.
Tuning is tricky even after this step since just temperature changes
can bring you off tune again. Hence, you need some sort of
variable capacitor or variable inductor. For the former Hendershot used
C-Clamps to selective apply pressure to the capacitor --which would
certainly CRACK paraffin and make it break off. For variable inductance,
you would search around and find the appropriate TAP on the coil --
implying you wind the coils with slightly MORE winds than you need,
and then search around for the sweet spot. This is RADIO thinking, however.
We know he probed around with wires, etc. We know he had C-clamps.
It implies he was doing some sort of tuning. We just don't know what
frequency range, what bandwidth, etc. I assume unlike radio, he
can get away with being wide-band for energy reception.

>5. Don't overlook the door bell buzzer and the external applied magnetic
>field. Even though the arc/spark produced was small this combination of
>hardware has the ingrediants to produce a very fast -di/dt wave form. The
>system disrupts the current flowing in the buzzer coild when it is at
>maximum. The contacts then spread apart which means that the small
>arc is being streatched while maintaining this maximum current (which is
>small) under the influance of a medium external magnetic field. The result
>is a very abrupt quench (about 20 ns). This technigue is also used in
>high power vacuum interupters. Check out the Imhotep device and get
>a feel for how a low power mechanical arc can do some interesting
>things, but not consistantly.

Yes. This argues against using MOSFETs or modern circuitry at first.
One of my videos shows this observation of the Relay no longer
buzzing like a buzzer, but going into a smooth arc'ing pattern. Odd.

>6. According to Mr. Art Ahoe in private converstation in 1971,
>another writer on the Hendershot technology, some or all of the coils
>employed IRON wire. I don't know which ones.

Galvanic effects can produce power too if you mix metals --
copper and iron ... or copper and steel. This is basic battery science.
Did they make "iron" wire in those days. Or do you mean "steel" wire?

>7. It has been written that Mr. Hendershot swapped out his 1 lb. coffee
>can coil forms for 5.25" stainless steel cylindars because the electrolyte
>from the modified capacitors were casuing corrision. Years later Mark
>hendershot wrote a detailed construction sequence about how to make
>the custom capacitor. This included washing the electrolyte from the
>capacitor plates. I have always wondered, if the electrolyde was
>removed during construction then corrosion would have not been a
>issue in the first place. I suspect that the electrolyte is still employed
>in the modified capacitor format and with out it the system will not work.
>I suspect the Mark Hendershot is incorrect on this point.

Ignoring the hand-made capacitor at first, it should be possible
to study just the magnet-solenoid-bar and to determine under what
circumstances the magnet can be brought into oscillation with the bar,
solenoid. I've started to experiment along these lines, and the
"echo" pulse from magnetometer-like solenoids can be LARGER in
magnitude relative to the energy put it. The SNAP from the magnet
can do this. This is known with fluxgate magnetometers, which were
invented in 1930, 1 year after Hendershot's motor device.
The next problem to solve, therefore, would be to find a way to
SELF-POWER the "excitation" coil of a magnetometer, so that you
could harvest these "echo" pulses. Receiving power "from-the-air"
is easy to do with self-resonant tank circuits and an antenna.
The hard thing to do is to have enough gain to PUSH a magnet around.
For that you need a pretty nicely balanced system.

>8. Consider checking with John Bedini. He has some first hand experiance
>with Mr. Hendershot in California years ago. In fact John explored using a
>Hendershot basket weave coil as part of his motor system 5 years ago.
>As far as I know there was no improvement in the application he was
>testing it for.

Basket weave, honeycomb, and other coil winding styles were created
by radio pioneers as a means of creating a coil with really high Q.
These are more ideal coils. They can be done "bigger" for lower
frequencies too. The coil you end up with has a linear-response
curve that goes from 0hz up to some self-resonant-frequency that
is much higher before bending down due to self-capacitance.
Capacitance is the SPEED-COP in the design. If there is too much of
it, these FAST little pulses can slowed down in time, and squished
in magnitude. This form of coil is similar to a nicely polished LENSE,
allow light to travel thru w/o "impedance".
There may be another aspect of honeycomb and/or basket weave.
I've noticed that if the magnet is 60 degrees to the honeycomb,
which also has these 60 degree cells all the way around, there
may be "less drag" on the magnet. It may be a way to minimize
Lenz's Law. The pyramid angle, 51.85 degrees, is also interesting
if you have more of a DIAMOND shaped wire-crossing, instead of a
true honeycomb shape. Honeycomb can be done with over-2-under-2
winding, or over-1-under-1 with a PEG that has a larger diameter.
A magnet spinning near a honeycomb coil, at certain orientations,
may feel less drag. More experiments needed.

When a magnet is dropped thru a really THICK copper tube,
HUGE drag slows the magnet as currents are induced in the copper.
Minimize the exposure the magnet sees to that copper, and you
can minimize the eddy currents ... the drag.

Also, the "iron" or "steel" wire idea is interesting in terms of a moving
magnet. It would pull the magnet towards the wire for "free"
rather than drag the magnet like copper would. Food for thought.

>9. It is my understanding that a 9 volt battery was used to start
>the Hendershot oscillator. It just baffeles me how anyone could
>come up with a circuit that was so hard to start (up to 9 hours
>of attempts) and make it work. It would be nice to see just what
>the original development circuits were like or what this technology
>was really based on. This is almost PFM.

Interesting that Hendershot didn't start it with a magnet -- such
as rubbing a magnet near a coil over and over again -- like shaking
one of those DUMB self-powered flashlights. Nope. He had to get
some wireless BUZZER thingy NEAR his device before he could
get something going ... implying "electro-static" reception of the
pulse discharges being emitted by a nearby out-of-circuit buzzer.
This is a major clue that some sort of reception is happening --
at least at first.

I wonder if Hendershot had penny loafers, and skuffed them around
on the RUG first, before walking over and discharging a spark
into his device to get it going? Psi ability indeed.

--morpher44

[morpher44]

"big" magnetometer experiment...

I have some interesting results to pass along.

The experiment I did tonight, which shows some promising results
is the following

A 12v relay is wired in buzzer fasion and connect to a 9v battery.
See Imhotep videos... for example.

The coil connections on the relay are wired through a
70MFD AC capacitor and then on to my solenoid-magnetometer thing.
The other lead from the solenoid back to the relay.
Hence, when the relay disengages, the back EMF from the relay's
coil cross the BIG capacitor and goes to the solenoid pair.

Attached to only ONE of the TWO solenoids are two
STRONG Neodymium N48 magnets (in bottlecaps to be safe).
Hence, one solenoid is enhance by this strong magnet, the other
is not.

Around the solenoids is wrapped 160 feet of 20AWG copper wire.
This is the sensing coil. I attach this coil to my scope.
There is a nice PULSE generated with a very narrow up
and down peak. The 70MFD caps make the relay slow way down,
and really SNAP this pulse causing the magnet to be snapped,
and then it snaps back, producing a nice "differential" current
between the solenoids, picked up by the sensing coil -- ala
magnetometer notion.

The sensing coil is also connected to a bridge rectifier, and the
DC side of the bridge is connected to 2200uF electrolytic cap
(for line filtering the voltage).
This is then wired to a simple LED.

The LED "glows". As I remove the magnet from the solenoid gradually,
power decreases and the LED goes dim. Reattach the magnet to
ONE solenoid, the LED gets glowing again.

The amp draw from the 9V battery is pretty low ... Its hard to
measure since the digital meter is glitching around a bit ... but
it looks like less than 15mA on average ... approx 135mWatts.
This is nothing really.

The LED sees about 1.7 volts and is probably 20mA to 30mA ..
so lets say 34mWatts.

Not bad for a machine that was "horribly" constructed, using
steel cores for solenoids, and not enough turns of wire, etc.

What is interesting here is that we are generating POWER in
this magnetometer using a "vibrating" magnet and NOT
a moving magnet. The duty cycle
of the signal to the scope on this sensing coil is very thin
narrow up and then down pulse ... with a long duration in between.
So RMS-wise, this looks like no power. YET, the bridge-rectifier and
cap CHARGE up nicely because the SPIKES here are pretty
high voltage. The cap is fooled into charging up ALA
Thomas Bearden.

I have to re-think this solenoid, magnetometer construction ...
better materials, more turns, etc.
Anyway, this looks like a good idea and it appears to work.

[dr.resist]

if i could not find nonpolars and instead made nonpolar buy connecting 2 polars ... will that be an issue since tow caps cant be exactly centered in the coil as one cap would be ... i mean the mystical action between the coil and the cap will be "disturbed" if 2 polar caps in there instead of one nonpolar ?!!

[dr.resist]

and another thing , i will get nonpolar cap by connecting 2 polars back-2-back in series .. so 2 neg connected and 2 pos will be the contacts .
will that be an issue giving that there will be other 3 couples caps connected the same way ? i mean is it ok when all negs of all the couples be connected (inward) to each other and the pos be the (outward) contact for the circuit ?

[Guruji]

I would like to post these files that I downloaded from the russian forum maybe they can be of some help:

[dr.resist]

mr.morpher , if 40/80 uf caps will produce 300 watt output , will 500/1000 uf output become 3000 watt ?

and before i install the whole thing , do you think that 450V caps will be totally safe or there will be some risk ?

[morpher44]

replies to dr. resist

if i could not find nonpolars and instead made nonpolar buy connecting 2 polars ... will that be an issue since tow caps cant be exactly centered in the coil as one cap would be ... i mean the mystical action between the coil and the cap will be "disturbed" if 2 polar caps in there instead of one nonpolar ?!!

quoting wikipedia, a great resource for your questions:

"Series connection is also sometimes used to adapt polarized electrolytic capacitors for bipolar AC use. Two polarized electrolytic capacitors are connected back to back to form a bipolar capacitor with half the capacitance[citation needed]. The anode film can only withstand a small reverse voltage however. This arrangement can lead to premature failure as the anode film is broken down during the reverse-conduction phase and partially rebuilt during the forward phase. A non-polarized electrolytic capacitor has both plates anodized so that it can withstand rated voltage in both directions; such capacitors have about half the capacitance per unit volume of polarized capacitors."

>and another thing , i will get nonpolar cap by connecting 2
>polars back-2-back in series .. so 2 neg connected and 2 pos
>will be the contacts .will that be an issue giving that there will be
>other 3 couples caps connected the same way ? i mean is it ok
>when all negs of all the couples be connected (inward) to each
>other and the pos be the (outward) contact for the circuit ?

Try it and report back. I personally have no experience in doing this.
It sounds a bit more expensive. You have to buy two caps for
the price of one. Search on ebay or other sites for the "correct"
80MFD & 40MFD AC caps. Hi-voltage AC caps are amazing and useful for
all sorts of low frequency stuff.

>mr.morpher , if 40/80 uf caps will produce 300 watt output ,
>will 500/1000 uf output become 3000 watt ?

As far I understand caps, they don't produce anything.
Rather, you send current to them. If anything, they will be lossy
and "consume" power, not make it.

>and before i install the whole thing , do you think that
>450V caps will be totally safe or there will be some risk ?

This is the voltage rating for how much juice they can take before
breaking down. If you send LESS juice though them, all is fine. Send more,
they will start to crackle and boil and may explode.
First you would have to actually be pumping juice thru them, right?

[dr.resist]

{You have to buy two caps for
the price of one. Search on ebay or other sites for the "correct"
80MFD & 40MFD AC caps. Hi-voltage AC caps are amazing and useful for
all sorts of low frequency stuff.}

problem is ebay cant reach me at the moment where i am staying , thats why i am bothering with all that.

--------------------------

{As far I understand caps, they don't produce anything.
Rather, you send current to them. If anything, they will be lossy
and "consume" power, not make it}

sure they dont , but caps are like batteries , they get charged , so bigger caps mean bigger stored power

--------------------------
what is confusing my principles , is that commercial 2hours video that used 500/1000 uf , then did an experiment with 25 bulbs board then with desktop pc

i mean if 500/1000 is disinfo , then why he will not be telling the truth which will be easily found by simple searching !!!

original hendershot's son doc says that 40/80 caps circuit will give out 300-500 watts , i mean that is enough to lighten 25 energy saving bulbs or to operate a PC

the "2h VIdeo" guy does not say what is the output wattage will be neither in his related docs , i mean he does not have to lie or disinfo with the caps capacitance , he can just say use 40/80 (which are cheaper and more available) instead of falsely with no obvious reason say that they should be 500/1000 uf

i cant find a reason why he will be deceiving right ? other than being an agent of the oil monarch or something lol , even if that is the case , hendershot generator is not a known project anyways, so he will be underlining it with his DIY project !!!!!

so mr.morpher i know you already draw a line in the sand about 500/1000 caps , but i understand that you did not yet finish a complete hendershot circuit exactly as the sch , so do you think its worth it to try 500/1000 (when i find them) and do you think the output wattage could be better if they worked ?