Your Basic Potential Difference Circuit

[Turion]

I'm starting this to begin a conversation about the POTENTIAL of potential difference circuits, and possibly to get folks to look at them in a new way and consider some things they have not considered before. I am posting a beginning video more to PROVOKE some people, and I know I am going to poke the bear with what I say. Whether I believe all of it or am just having fun poking the bear you can determine in time. Regardless, I will be pointing out some things that perhaps you have not considered before and maybe we can begin some explorations together that lead us in the right direction. And as I have already been a long way down this road, I can help avoid some detours and point out some shortcuts. At a minimum, I can keep it headed in the right direction.

I purposely left "amps" out of the equation in this first video for some specific reasons as I wanted to focus on voltage and what happens in these kinds of circuits that make them difficult to work with. But as you watch the video, amps should be in the back of your mind, because without current flow, or movement from a higher voltage source to a lower (potential difference) electricity doesn't do much good now does it? Case in point: The light bulb in the first part of the video that "sees" no potential difference from one side of it to the other, so even though it is part of the circuit, in SERIES with a load that is running, it doesn't light up.

I posted this particular circuit a LONG TIME back and some people even replicated it and said they saw nothing of value in it. Did they play with it? Did they experiment with different loads and different KINDS of loads? NOPE. And so they learned what they DESERVED to learn. Baby steps people. Let the discussion begin.

https://youtu.be/u_5hpNfJ8Ko

[bistander]

I'm starting this to begin a conversation about the POTENTIAL of potential difference circuits, and possibly to get folks to look at them in a new way and consider some things they have not considered before. I am posting a beginning video more to PROVOKE some people, and I know I am going to poke the bear with what I say. Whether I believe all of it or am just having fun poking the bear you can determine in time. Regardless, I will be pointing out some things that perhaps you have not considered before and maybe we can begin some explorations together that lead us in the right direction. And as I have already been a long way down this road, I can help avoid some detours and point out some shortcuts. At a minimum, I can keep it headed in the right direction.

I purposely left "amps" out of the equation in this first video for some specific reasons as I wanted to focus on voltage and what happens in these kinds of circuits that make them difficult to work with. But as you watch the video, amps should be in the back of your mind, because without current flow, or movement from a higher voltage source to a lower (potential difference) electricity doesn't do much good now does it? Case in point: The light bulb in the first part of the video that "sees" no potential difference from one side of it to the other, so even though it is part of the circuit, in SERIES with a load that is running, it doesn't light up.

I posted this particular circuit a LONG TIME back and some people even replicated it and said they saw nothing of value in it. Did they play with it? Did they experiment with different loads and different KINDS of loads? NOPE. And so they learned what they DESERVED to learn. Baby steps people. Let the discussion begin.

https://youtu.be/u_5hpNfJ8Ko

Hi Turion,

Does your multimeter have a millivolt scale? The potential difference across the bulb may be only a few millivolts. What are the voltage and wattage ratings of the bulb?

Regards,
bi

[BroMikey]

23-24v differential that is the key and you failed to compare THAT. Yes we understand that if you have a big motor (36v one) in series with a bulb (????) well an unknown bulb it splits up like you say it doesn't

So 8v for the light and a 15v for the motor is 23v just like the differential reading shows 8v + 15v = 23v. Where did I miss it? I am sure you meant to show me something out of the ordinary. Maybe you should repeat the experiment to include the differential each measurement . In the very beginning you did show the differential voltage reading and I was disappointed that it was never shown again.

Thanks for sharing Dave, it is always a pleasure to see you out front and center trying to show us something you have learned. BTW the first motor was running but not the light because of the differential of resistances. If you use two identical loads with the same approx resistances you will see the power split up evenly otherwise one hogs all of the juice. Still a good learning experience for you.

[BroMikey]

BTW Dave I have a ton of boost converters I am itching to do an experiment with so do one more test that I can get into with the diff. readings and I will report what I see. Maybe between the two of us (nobody knows where we are going) we can break through this veil of indifference. I too must admit that in light of my training of electronics I am having difficulty following what you are able to achieve here. As you may or may not recall I spent months splitting the positive doing everything you told me to do and I must say it was interesting at least? We have come along way together and I am all set up with what you have recommended folks should buy. For instance efficiency of boost modules and the ones with common grounds or negative terminals that are the same on the input as the output has. They are internally connected on the circuit board. Which I had originally asked you and the other guy but neither knew so I bought one and found this out by looking at the traces on the circuit board.

On the other hand the other type of boost converter allows the experimenter to isolate the input grounds (negative terminals) from the output and also the grounds can be externally connected to for the NON isolated boosting format. I have thousands of dollars in batteries, I have modified motors and standard ones. I have boost converters up the kuzzoo

[BroMikey]

A bit over the heads. Complicated video. Even you will have a hard time.

[BroMikey]

What I see Dave wants peeps to experiment so I did, however he is not interested in your setup he wants experimenters to try stuff like this. Still I am lost as to what is happening.
I am your hero, watch and weep.

[BroMikey]

http://www.energeticforum.com/forum/...g-the-positive


splitting.gif

[Turion]

bi,
The bulb is a 12 volt bulb 10 watt.

bro Mikey,
I showed the output from the boost module. That output never changed. I showed the differential between the boost module output and the battery. That never changed. I showed the differential across the loads for all three motors and the differential across the light for all three motors. What measurement are you saying I didn't show?

Why doesn't the light light up? Why is there NO READING across the light bulb when the small 12 volt motor is used. An electrical engineer would say that if there is current ANYWHERE in the circuit there is current EVERYWHERE in the circuit.

Standard electrical theory says: In a series circuit, there is one node between each circuit element. That means that all of the current flowing into the node must also flow out of the node (again, all the charges going into the node must also come out of the node). That is why current is the same through a series circuit.

So if current going through the light is the same as what is going through the motor, why doesn't the light light up? bro, you said "one hogs all of the juice". It can't be current that it is hogging now can it? CURRENT theory won't allow that. (that's a pun, son) So, are you telling me that the small 12 volt motor used up all (35.8-12.4) volts available, but the 36 volt motor didn't and that's why the light lit up in series with the 36 volt motor but not in series with the 12 volt motor. Because the 12 volt motor used MORE of the voltage than the 36 volt motor? Exactly what "juice" was the small motor hogging so that the light wouldn't come on? Amps or volts?

I showed this example to get people to really LOOK at what is going on with potential difference circuits.

And by the way, for those interested, I talked to Greyland last night and he is testing each coil pair today to make sure each coil pair does not slow the motor down on the generator. He will call me tonight with the results.

[BroMikey]

[QUOTE=;n498918]

[BroMikey]

bi,


And by the way, for those interested, I talked to Greyland last night and he is testing each coil pair today to make sure each coil pair does not slow the motor down on the generator. He will call me tonight with the results.

No rush, conference time won't be til next year and by then you will be doing other things, same ole. Aaron has not answered about what is going on with a teleconference and I think that is because most peeps are freaking out on all of the fake news death toll. Plus no extra money with the economy shut down for so long. Little frivolous resort vacations. Here we are again with the someday promises. Nobody believes anyway, and even if you write all the formulas on their foreheads so they can compare heads it ain't real.

A new day is coming and not with these setups. Real invention is coming, held over by tyrants for decades, no more of this kind of slow walking, time for change.

[BroMikey]

This guy was here before we were, good video readings

bi,
The bulb is a 12 volt bulb 10 watt.

bro Mikey,
. What measurement are you saying I didn't show?

Why doesn't the light light up? Why is there NO READING across the light bulb when the small 12 volt more is used. An electrical engineer would say that if there is current ANYWHERE in the circuit there is current EVERYWHERE in the circuit.

The point is I can say anything and these peeps don't get it. Nice work Dave.

[BroMikey]

recycled joules

[Ernst]

Hi Turion,
The video makes perfect sense to me.
A few things you need to know: When a filament in a light bulb is cold, it has a very low resistance. So if there is only a small current flowing the voltage across it will be very low. Once the filament gets hot its resistance increases and with it the voltage across it.
The other thing is a similar thing about motors. If you put a voltage across it the coils will draw a lot of current until the motor is running freely. Then the current drops.
When you connect things in series the total voltage gets divided over the components in the circuit according to their resistance. If one component offers a lot of resistance it gets more voltage.

So yes, it all seems perfectly logical to me but please do continue. Maybe at some point, you will surprise me, and if not me, probably someone else .


Ernst.

[Turion]

Bi,
.110 volts across the light according to my RMS meter

Ernst,
If the video from yesterday made sense, you will love the one from today.

I am going to run the motor and the light from separate sources for a while so they are both “warm” and try the same experiment again to see if the results change. According to what you stated, the motor yesterday would have been “cold” and the light “warm” since the light had been run in series with two motors before it was run in series with the 36 volt motor. Today both the motor and light were “cold”.

Here’s what I ran at 5:00 this morning. It’s the only time I can squeeze in a few minutes for this stuff before getting to work.
https://youtu.be/z8pRKYMyEYU

bro,
I have done that experiment with some really HUGE caps as well as with lithium iron batteries. And that is what I have been saying for ten years now. The energy is NOT “consumed” by the load. Light bulbs convert some to heat as do ALL electrical devices, but as much as 95% (in some cases ONLY) can be reclaimed. That means REUSED.

Use energy to make energy (generator) and recover 95% of what you used. That’s what’s known in the biz as “free energy” or as some people like to call it,
FRAUD. LOL.

[bistander]

Bi,
.110 volts across the light according to my RMS meter
...

Thanks for the data. Your bulb specs:
12V, 10W
So rated current = 0.833A & R = 14.4Ohm.

Using 14.4 Ohm, with small scooter motor, current is 0.146A with the 2.1V measured potential difference. This gives 0.306W.

Using your measured O.110 volt drop across the bulb with the small motor, current is 7.6mA and power is 0.84mW.

No wonder it doesn't illuminate. The filament isn't much more than a piece of wire.

Regards,
bi