One of my posts totally disappeared. I answered all bro's questions. So here is the same info again.
No Turion did NOT "draw it that way." Bro Mike changed my original circuit. You guys auit. The circuit bro Mike shows MAY have a bad wire in it depending on the equipment used. If the second boost module is an ISOLATED boost module, as MINE WAS, the wiring is FINE. If the second boost module is NOT isolated, the wire connected to Negative Out on the second boost module needs to be removed. It isn't NEEDED for EITHER type of boost module to function correctly, so you might as well remove it. Connected the way it is, it's a problem.
As to why the first boost module works. It is running on a potential difference, as all DC circuits do. There is 12 volts on the + terminal of the boost module and -0- volts on the Negative terminal of the boost module when connected directly to the battery, so there is a "potential difference of 12 volts. The boost module doesn't CARE what you do with its output unless you hook something up to it in a way that will cause it harm. SO the fact that only ONE wire of the output is connected makes NO DIFFERENCE to the boost module (at least with MOST OF THEM. BUT, you need to STOP thinking of "Positive" and "Negative" if you are going to work with potential difference circuits. You have a HIGH side and a LOW side and the load runs off the difference between them. The second boost module has a high voltage connected to the Positive IN terminal and a lower voltage connected to the Negative In terminal. It "sees" a difference there, and that's what it runs on. It would not matter one bit if you connected 2012 volts to the positive in and 2000 volts to the negative in. The boost module would see a difference of ONLY 12 VOLTS, and that is what it would run on. It might make a difference to YOU if you grabbed the wrong wire, but the boost module would be perfectly happy. OK, that was an exaggerated example to make a point so DON'T do that!!!!
No Turion did NOT "draw it that way." Bro Mike changed my original circuit. You guys auit. The circuit bro Mike shows MAY have a bad wire in it depending on the equipment used. If the second boost module is an ISOLATED boost module, as MINE WAS, the wiring is FINE. If the second boost module is NOT isolated, the wire connected to Negative Out on the second boost module needs to be removed. It isn't NEEDED for EITHER type of boost module to function correctly, so you might as well remove it. Connected the way it is, it's a problem.
As to why the first boost module works. It is running on a potential difference, as all DC circuits do. There is 12 volts on the + terminal of the boost module and -0- volts on the Negative terminal of the boost module when connected directly to the battery, so there is a "potential difference of 12 volts. The boost module doesn't CARE what you do with its output unless you hook something up to it in a way that will cause it harm. SO the fact that only ONE wire of the output is connected makes NO DIFFERENCE to the boost module (at least with MOST OF THEM. BUT, you need to STOP thinking of "Positive" and "Negative" if you are going to work with potential difference circuits. You have a HIGH side and a LOW side and the load runs off the difference between them. The second boost module has a high voltage connected to the Positive IN terminal and a lower voltage connected to the Negative In terminal. It "sees" a difference there, and that's what it runs on. It would not matter one bit if you connected 2012 volts to the positive in and 2000 volts to the negative in. The boost module would see a difference of ONLY 12 VOLTS, and that is what it would run on. It might make a difference to YOU if you grabbed the wrong wire, but the boost module would be perfectly happy. OK, that was an exaggerated example to make a point so DON'T do that!!!!
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