Donald Smith Devices too good to be true

[Mwtj]

The top circuit is a copy of your wiring.

The bottom circuit is the original.

Mwtj has is wired the same as original. If his internal flyback diode is the red lead. It matches Bruce's circuit.

Please bare in mind the resistor is not connected and the earth ground not connected in his picture.

But that is how he had it laid out when it was successfully working. Am I right Mwtj?

Yes you are. You can try it both ways and see what results you get.
It seemed this way worked best for me.

[soundiceuk]

Mwtj has is wired the same as original. If his internal flyback diode is the red lead. It matches Bruce's circuit.

Please bare in mind the resistor is not connected and the earth ground not connected in his picture.

But that is how he had it laid out when it was successfully working. Am I right Mwtj?

Here is a diagram to make things simpler.

Mwtf, was this your working circuit wiring?

Has the red flyback lead got the diode in? This would equate to D5





Hopefully we can move forward again.

[tesluh]

This was from page about 155 (cant find the original post) http://www.energeticforum.com/attach...e-don_co10-jpg

tried this with two sheets of aluminum with plastic spacer (homemade capacitor) I omitted the diodes on the 60hz nst as they kept it from arcing to the first plate. Taking the lead from the bottom plate through a 300v gas discharge tube (spark gap) and diodes I attached it to the high end of a 60 hz nst to work as a step down transformer and ended up making 6 volts on the primary ( I had an led and lit it across the terminals just like the bulb in the photo).

Don used a "dielectric tester" which seemed like a handheld tesla coil to excite one plate of a capacitor. Pretty sure I will want a tesla coil instead of an nst.

can anyone comment on the "avramenko plug" drawn in the schematic? I had blue arc jumping where the dashed line is and not sure why a diode hanging freely would do anything. I thought avramenko plug was two opposing diodes and a capacitor...

[soundiceuk]

The top circuit is a copy of your wiring.

The bottom circuit is the original.

Mwtj has is wired the same as original. If his internal flyback diode is the red lead. It matches Bruce's circuit.

Please bare in mind the resistor is not connected and the earth ground not connected in his picture.

But that is how he had it laid out when it was successfully working. Am I right Mwtj?

[soundiceuk]

Tswift, I believe I've solved why your circuit doesn't work.

I still haven't figured out the Rubiks cube though!

[soundiceuk]

Ok, so me and Bruce have done some deeper investigation into this HVM.

There are a number of different versions of it.

What you need to do is remove the green wire and the black wire number 5.

Then join the HV wire to the black wire coming out of the bottom of the flyback.

Luckily Bruce's new one is clear plastic so you can see it.

You were right about the centre tap.

The cut HOT end is not connected and has no continuity if you check.

Please can you confirm yours is wired the same?

[soundiceuk]

Here are a few photos of Tswift trouble shooting.

His tests helped to diagnose it was the HV source that wasn't correct.

[soundiceuk]

Yes, I noticed that too. I think the HV transformer in this device was adapted from an air purifier/ionizer and originally had two "hot" wires with the center tap coming out the bottom as a black wire. I'm assuming they were just a part that could be sourced in large quantities for cheap. So the center tap is now "ground" and the other hot wire is just cut leaving the end like this. Otherwise the PVM12 unit seems well built with some attention to detail in the design and construction but leaving the cut end of the other HV wire like that seems undesirable to me. I wish they had just brought it out to a separate lead and the unit could be double the voltage.

I don't think there is a centre tap at all from looking at the schematic. I haven't got the unit as close as you have, but the schematic says 1000 turns of 22#

The primary has a centre tap.

What's the worst that can happen from using both HV outlets, the fuse blow?

Unlikely with the R1 resistor in series.

Agree?



4. is a useful instruction!

[soundiceuk]

Yeah apologies, I made a mistake on the schematic:




So test the cut lead with a fluorescent tube or something to quickly verify it has an output and then if all good, wire some HV wire to it.

At least you know why the circuit wasn't behaving properly!

[tswift]

Yes, I noticed that too. I think the HV transformer in this device was adapted from an air purifier/ionizer and originally had two "hot" wires with the center tap coming out the bottom as a black wire. I'm assuming they were just a part that could be sourced in large quantities for cheap. So the center tap is now "ground" and the other hot wire is just cut leaving the end like this. Otherwise the PVM12 unit seems well built with some attention to detail in the design and construction but leaving the cut end of the other HV wire like that seems undesirable to me. I wish they had just brought it out to a separate lead and the unit could be double the voltage.

[dragon]

Well, that page of instruction that comes with the PVM12 makes it seem as if the black and green grounds are separate, but they lie! I opened the unit, and sure enough, both are tied together to the metal plate that serves as circuit common. The outer housing is either ABS or styrene plastic, which is good. It's easy enough to unscrew the holding screw and separate them, but this doesn't solve the problem that they are also not HV wire, so I will have to partially rewire it. When my HV wire comes in that is, I have some on order now. So yes, that was definitely a problem.

The red arrow in the picture below, isn't this the HV neg terminal on the flyback? It almost looks like its been cut ... is this connected to the chassis ground?

[tswift]

Well, that page of instruction that comes with the PVM12 makes it seem as if the black and green grounds are separate, but they lie! I opened the unit, and sure enough, both are tied together to the metal plate that serves as circuit common. The outer housing is either ABS or styrene plastic, which is good. It's easy enough to unscrew the holding screw and separate them, but this doesn't solve the problem that they are also not HV wire, so I will have to partially rewire it. When my HV wire comes in that is, I have some on order now. So yes, that was definitely a problem.

[soundiceuk]

Tswift, what are you currently doing with the "dedicated ground line number 5?

It appears it doesn't show this on the schematic?

Are both 6 & 7 HV wire?

I'm interested to see inside the chassis, if you could send me a picture please.

[soundiceuk]

There seems to be an error in the schematic, the HV diode should be the other way around so that the antenna is charged positive not negative. Dragon noticed the inconsistency and Mwtj also noticed this by reading the text closely and built his device to match the text not the schematic. I flipped the diode and now I have spark, as mentioned above. So far not enough juice to light anything up, but I have several other things to try also.

I'd still like to get to the bottom of this.

Is this related to your earth that needs removing?

Mwtj what did you change? Can you quote the text please?

Tswift can you send me a picture of where you put the diode instead please?

[soundiceuk]

Unfortunaly i am only about a 300 feet above sea level. A little less than i thought

Lets just have a recap.

What are tswift's and serendipitor's elevations?

So currently the only open loop working replication is the lowest elevation.

Serendipitor please can you email me some detailed pictures of your setup.

Bruce has already troubleshooted Mwtj's and Tswift's (we think).