Donald Smith Devices too good to be true

[Itsu]

acurate multimeters?

Hi all,

As we are talking about how acurate our digital/analoge multimeters
are, please keep in mind that also these meters have a frequency limit.

This limit is often mentioned in the usersguides (and often not), but is in the 400Hz to 2Khz range!!.
It is very low compared to the frequencies (10 - 100Khz) we use.

I tested my 3 multimeters (2x digital, 1 analoge) on the AC voltage scale, and was rather surprised
about their behaviour, see DMM's AC RMS test.mpeg - YouTube


Regards Itsu.

[JohnStone]

Perfect man !

Cool i cant wait to see
I have only tried ignition coils, but any transformer should do

Hi Mr. Clean & RAD-HHO
can you confirm this schematic to be really OK?
http://www.energeticforum.com/attach...an-kdkinen.jpg
I get no oscillation - only once for some seconds! No idea what changed then.

I tried:
- 3 different pairs of 3055 from different manufacturers (RCA / Tesla)
- 5 different ignition coils
- I have a very good earth ground - distance 8m with heavy braided copper lead

In any case I get sparks if I put 12V over 1K to the base of the darlington.
I get constant sparks if I operate the setup with an accellerator out of a cordless drill

Any hints for help available?

rgds John

[mr.clean]

Hi Mr. Clean & RAD-HHO
can you confirm this schematic to be really OK?
http://www.energeticforum.com/attach...an-kdkinen.jpg
I get no oscillation - only once for some seconds! No idea what changed then.

I tried:
- 3 different pairs of 3055 from different manufacturers (RCA / Tesla)
- 5 different ignition coils
- I have a very good earth ground - distance 8m with heavy braided copper lead

In any case I get sparks if I put 12V over 1K to the base of the darlington.
I get constant sparks if I operate the setup with an accellerator out of a cordless drill

Any hints for help available?

rgds John

Yep thats it man, MAKE SURE you dont mix the base with the emitter
Bad things will happen

And sorry 1 k what? Dont use any resistors!

I put the directions in the description of the last video, let me know

[JohnStone]

.... these meters have a frequency limit ....

You are right.
Terefore we use analog meters. They cheat as well at higher frequencies but do not jump in a wild dance. So they can be used for relaive compare.

Apart that the usual meteres are calibrated for sine shape only.

Exact AC meters like HP 3400A (0.1V ...300V) true RMS (10Hz up to 25 MHz) mesure by heat equivalent. The wave shape from 10% duty cycle on does not matter. I use it for final measurements only.

[mr.clean]

Hi Farmhand,
your meters in the vid are OK. Nevertheless you are right in complaining their difference.
Look at the class 2.5! It says that your meter is allowed to cheat you:
2.5% at end position of 5 Amps = 125 mA.
But is gets worse. This is a constant over the whole range NOT 2.5% but 125mA.
This means that the error is:
- @2.5 Amps -> 5%
- @1.5 Amps -> 10%
- @0.75 Amps -> 20%
Perfect "guess-meter"
As we have very accuate digital meters we could decide to calibrate our analog meters quite acccurately.

On the other hand we could decide to buy some old analog multimeters. 1% DC / 1.5% AC were quite usual. Apart that they can be switched to different ranges. If we measure in the upper quarter of the range they are suffitiently accurate.

Yes it is a very good point, but luckily...... i did measure last nite with a digital..... 40 mA input at charged 12.6volts (my battery was almost dead in the video) and like most loads, your efficiency will be based on the efficiency of your bulbs!

So this great for led's because theyre so efficient, if you choose a bulb that gets hot, it will be less efficient, and will not kill power, but wont naturally light fully unless assisted by a vitual ground. (Air antenna or long length of wire)

But if you load is efficient enough, it should not phase the output coil, and light up the load without antennas or grounding.
But the input power is mostly causing the circuit to oscillate, and loads that contact the ringing, will in turn be excited.

Still not sure if over 100%, BUT bottom line is, at the end of the one minute run videos, the circuit did provide steady brightness, for a longer time than without the circuit. So sure its because not so much power hit the lights early on, BUT it did give longer amount of steady light, so who knows, but its exciting

[mr.clean]

A lot of bright light for a short time is not useful.

Steady, adequate, efficient, long-lasting lght IS USEFUL

I just wanted to share a cool circuit that i see working, im not after notariety or credit

Have fun

[usu]

Thank you. do I need RF filter toroid to run it on 12V ? KT805 can be replaced by MJE13009 ? with tv flyback what about connection to base of transistor ?
do you have schematic how to use katcher with tv flyback ?

Hi,boguslaw!

Good replacement.
But I don't recommend use body type TO220 but any metall.
It is better for cooling.

Filter required for saving you and your neighbors.
Cool electricity will penetrate into all electrical appliances all neighbors before the transformer substation(it has own filter).
If it doesn't matter just do it.
We have very small information about impact cool el. on man and nature.

I did my own research with kacher .Here are few results:

I can say that this is completely different principle of the transistor controlling.
Transistor is managed by cold current.

A cold current also promotes fast switching transistor from a closed to an open state.

Cold current also makes a changes the inside structure of transistor .
Mostly it makes him stronger(of course if doesn't die).

Transistor get a new property but with using cool electricity only.

Most of transistors can work in the kacher regime.
Also MOSFETs work very well( some differences in the scheme).

Some strong processes in transistor make him hot but not kill it.

Managing by cold current allows the transistor to work in huge overcurrent.
The selection does not require In the parallel connection.
If it is nessesary you can combine 2-10 pcs.
One rus person ( @Mag@ ) made a biological researching .He said that kacher field can be treated, or vice versa(if you wish).
But this is completely different topic.
Ferrite can be used for kacher.
If you want to use the tv flyback you should add a few primary turns at free space and use any free coil for secondary.

By the way.

"CD4049, CD4069 or any other"
I think you shoul use ÑD4050

Best regards,

Sergey.

[DilJalaay]

Hi,

Vladimir Utkin has just added one extra page to his document. It is his comments on Paul Baumann's Testatika self-powered generator and is now page 16 of his document which can be downloaded from http://www.free-energy-info.com/VladimirUtkin.pdf

Patrick

Many thanks to you sir.
Regards,
D.J

[mr.clean]

Hi folks, Hi mr clean, thanks for sharing the recent 9 volt battery test.
It looks like the 9 volt battery test was using around 50 milliamps or around 600 milliwatts to run your 4 - 3watt led lights for 3 or so hours.
Pretty darn good in my book, I am cobbling together something to try and replicate in some way.
I'm surprised lidmotor isn't jumping all over this.
peace love light
tyson

Thanks man, lidmotor has, hes gotta be the ultimate macguyver when it comes to these concept designs,
He did some ignition coil vids years ago with the darlington pair, REALLY cool stuff.
But i dont want to be too complicated, or dependant on many components (not that he is)
I just like the simplicity

Im excited for you to have it built, and thanks for that calculation, about right on, 40-50 mA i measured with digital last nite with the 9 volt

[dragon]

A lot of bright light for a short time is not useful.

Steady, adequate, efficient, long-lasting lght IS USEFUL

I just wanted to share a cool circuit that i see working, im not after notariety or credit

Have fun

Are the coils doing anything? would it work just driving the load without them? You may be getting fooled and the improvement in efficiency is simply based on the pulsed output.

[JohnStone]

Yep thats it man, MAKE SURE you dont mix the base with the emitter
Bad things will happen

And sorry 1 k what? Dont use any resistors!

I put the directions in the description of the last video, let me know

Thanks fro reply!
- Base / Emitter are printed on the case.
- The 1K resistor is for test purpose only in order to test if the transistros work properly.
- I will watch the vid again.

[mr.clean]

Do not mislead people. This man is not the inventor, and has no success in replication.

Hi there, i have seen Destine2012 / Dynatron running an 880watt motor,

and i dont thing he was inputing 880 watts, whats with that?

[mr.clean]

Are the coils doing anything? would it work just driving the load without them? You may be getting fooled and the improvement in efficiency is simply based on the pulsed output.

hmmmm ...good idea, ive never tried, LETS TRY IT !!

after all, when Don was questioned for a working schem in the 2001 vid, he defaulted to the single transistor drawing... poor guy couldnt remember it exactly, but yes, it should work.

....hehe i think were still on the Don Smith topic after all

GOD THATS A GOOD POINT DRAGON !!!!! if im steppinh up, JUST to step down.... theres naturally a cancellation and obsoletion of that step!!!!

holy crap youre good

[woopy]

Hi all

Hi Mr Clean

Thank's very much Kurt for your great input and very amazing experiments

Thank's for sharing

So of course i replicated the device and i got a very good oscillation with the base connected to the ground (earth ) or also with my long (10 meter air antenna). I am fascinated by that.

But at the output i get very poor light on my LED lamp, and that at different voltage , i mean i don't get your fantastic result.
But as you can see on the attached pix, i use 2 different manufacturer's car coil .They are rated the same value but in fine they are different coil

So i think that the 2 coils must be matched very precisely in the frequency.

Or other sayd they must be exactly the same.

So i will order 2 same coils to go on.

Now for my today interpretation, i do not think that in this design, we step the voltage up on the coil 1 and than we step the voltage down in coil 2.

Because , by construction, the negative of this kind of coil is connected to the HV , so in the second coil all the winding are suffering the HV of the first coil. And the output is HV.

I tested it and the scope shows on all wires of the coil 2 about the same oscillation amplitude and frequency.

So i think that the coil 2 is simply "increasing" the power(and voltage ) of coil 1 by decreasing the frequency of coil 1. It is a prolongation of the first "Kacher " so my supposition but i may be wrong.

And also i think that the whole system must be matched very precisely with probably some variable capacitance (pico F by lenght of wire or other mean )

Anyway bravo Kurt , your circuit works very well and i will go on the replication, that is very encouraging thank's.

good luck at all

Laurent

[mr.clean]

Are the coils doing anything? would it work just driving the load without them? You may be getting fooled and the improvement in efficiency is simply based on the pulsed output.

I think youre right, not more than 100% of what could be inside the battery, but longer run time than straight DC current would provide

either way, im pleased with longer useful light