Donald Smith Devices too good to be true

[med.3012]

@tswift


not all researchers has the ability to post in a famous scientific magazine, suppressed sciences cover a lots of domains for example medical suppressed discovery, a sick man suffer from pain will seek the good health ... big medicament company don't want critical information to be known .. for example if you google about colloidal silver you find a blue man as a side effect ( in reality this happen very rarely .. ) the point here there's a very strong stream oppose our efforts to bring this technology to the humanity.. unfortunately one of them situated within free energy community...


any theory based on a particle spin have to be taken seriously because spinning is a universe behavior.. from black holes , galaxies , sun , earth , everything is spinning .. !

[Wistiti]

Hi guys!
I give a short test to the circuit (V7.0.0) Just to see if it fire the PPV without the ground and antenna connect to it . I have only the primary side build so no secondary and no load.
As I was expected there was no spark on the both PPV... (there is no path the + meet the- in this circuit)

After that, I connect the antenna and ground rod to the device and then the 2 PPV fire!!!
So my conclusion is with the antenna and ground connected, this circuit really attract some opposite component from the outside of the device to make the PPV fire.
The theorie Bruce and Soundiceuk share seem to be real!!!

Hope more fellow will jump in... The last schematic Soundiceuk have share seem more easy than the one im building... I don't know if it is more efficient than the V7.0.0.....

Works in progress!

[deggers]

Bloch Wall = Diode

1996 Tesla Magazine article

[tswift]

After that, I connect the antenna and ground rod to the device and then the 2 PPV fire!!!

Yes, I concur. I made quite a bit of progress today and I got most of the mirrored configuration built. Like Wistiti, I have the primary side circuit but not the secondary. On the bench the two PPV's do not fire unless you touch one of the antenna connections, it doesn't matter which. I have both gaps adjusted as close as I can get them without actually touching. I hauled the rig out to my test site and connected antenna and ground and I get steady firing and a nice white spark on both gaps.

The device is energized in the benchtop photo, you can read the meters. The voltage on the main dipole is about 13 KV, the battery voltage is normal for a fully charged 12V gel cell, and the ZVS is drawing about 400 mA.

First video, bench test (apologies for video quality, low light necessary to show sparks):
http://gateway.ipfs.io/ipfs/QmXptiJh...Uotaq8fizMambY

Second video, with antenna and ground (mostly dark, watch for the PPV's firing):
http://gateway.ipfs.io/ipfs/QmaeszPb...NbSPqB5pZF78Q9

[Mwtj]

Almost done.

Single coil and the double coils.
Antenna and two grounds.

Waiting for the last parts to finish the PPV.

[Wistiti]

Nice setup guys!
Twsift your rate of sparking is almost the same as mine... think we have to go higher in primary voltage...

MWjt really nice build! I really like your isolation. What is the part you waiting for?

[radioionics]

Nice work!

[tswift]

I had another idea of a way to improve things. I realized that I goofed with the antenna because I didn't fully understand what was happening on a physical level. The antenna has little if anything to do with receiving AC waves at a given frequency. It is essentially an antenna for DC! As you observed Wisiti, all the device does is create a dipole and the external "circuit" is completed by the surrounding environment. How does it do this? If you're using an antenna and not two grounds it does it through ionizing the air around the wire due to the high voltage. Some ions are no doubt already present even in air close to the ground but I wouldn't think very many. So by using larger wire than specified, I increased the radius of curvature, thus reducing the electric field intensity and the resulting ionization. So even with 500 feet of wire not much ion current flows. What I really need is 500 feet of really tiny wire, the smallest diameter that is practical to use. If my understanding is correct about this then the antenna shape and orientation don't really matter. So I'm thinking of just building a circular frame with PVC pipe and criscrossing it with fine wire back and forth like spokes of a bicycle wheel. What it really needs is the surface area, but also a very small radius of curvature. If you could get something like very fine steel wool only from copper it would probably work too. I think there will be a balance, too little surface area won't give much current, but too much will load down the high voltage module excessively. What is needed is just enough to give a continuous spark on the PPV's but without dropping the dipole voltage more than a little. It will probably take some experimentation to find the necessary amount of wire.

[Wistiti]

My current antenna is approx. 600ft long... and 5 to 6 ft from the ground.

[Mwtj]

I had another idea of a way to improve things. I realized that I goofed with the antenna because I didn't fully understand what was happening on a physical level. The antenna has little if anything to do with receiving AC waves at a given frequency. It is essentially an antenna for DC! As you observed Wisiti, all the device does is create a dipole and the external "circuit" is completed by the surrounding environment. How does it do this? If you're using an antenna and not two grounds it does it through ionizing the air around the wire due to the high voltage. Some ions are no doubt already present even in air close to the ground but I wouldn't think very many. So by using larger wire than specified, I increased the radius of curvature, thus reducing the electric field intensity and the resulting ionization. So even with 500 feet of wire not much ion current flows. What I really need is 500 feet of really tiny wire, the smallest diameter that is practical to use. If my understanding is correct about this then the antenna shape and orientation don't really matter. So I'm thinking of just building a circular frame with PVC pipe and criscrossing it with fine wire back and forth like spokes of a bicycle wheel. What it really needs is the surface area, but also a very small radius of curvature. If you could get something like very fine steel wool only from copper it would probably work too. I think there will be a balance, too little surface area won't give much current, but too much will load down the high voltage module excessively. What is needed is just enough to give a continuous spark on the PPV's but without dropping the dipole voltage more than a little. It will probably take some experimentation to find the necessary amount of wire.

Maybe the oxidation of the bare copper wire will make this more effective

Isolators used are from a electric fence. They are stacked together. Used parrafin wax for further insulation of the wooden dowel inside.

For a better frequency of the gap use higher voltage.

[Wistiti]

Maybe the oxidation of the bare copper wire will make this more effective

Isolators used are from a electric fence. They are stacked together. Used parrafin wax for further insulation of the wooden dowel inside.

For a better frequency of the gap use higher voltage.

Thanks for the info!

Im thinking to use a 4 stage "Cockcroft Walton Voltage multiplier" to step up my primary hv.

[tswift]

Im thinking to use a 4 stage "Cockcroft Walton Voltage multiplier" to step up my primary hv.

Yes, I now have enough caps and diodes on hand to make a 5-stage multiplier. Unfortunately the multiplier has to be driven with AC and the flyback that came with this ZVS driver is DC, it has an internal multiplier and a final cap. So it's great to use by itself but you can't put an external multiplier on it. I haven't yet tried stacking two batteries and driving it at 24 volts, supposedly these cheap units are rated up to 30 volts input. This will increase the input power requirements quite a bit I feel sure, so not really a great solution. My PVM12 still runs but I think there are issues with it. Depending on what I try to do with it, sometimes I can hear hissing or popping like an HV leak coming from it but I can't see anything even in the dark with the cover off. I'm afraid there is an insulation breakdown somewhere inside the HV transformer. As long as the output voltage stays moderate it works but if the voltage swing gets too high it arcs over internally. I will try driving the multiplier with it and see how far I get. I noticed on the amazing1.com website that replacement transformers are available but of course it's half the price of the whole PVM12 itself. I also had the thought of obtaining a replacement flyback and instead of using it to fix the PVM12, driving it with the ZVS. This will drive it at the resonant frequency of the secondary and ensure maximum voltage rise but the ZVS driver is more powerful and might be too much for the transformer, I don't want to ruin a $50 transformer finding out the hard way.

[radioionics]

I had another idea of a way to improve things. I realized that I goofed with the antenna because I didn't fully understand what was happening on a physical level. The antenna has little if anything to do with receiving AC waves at a given frequency. It is essentially an antenna for DC! As you observed Wisiti, all the device does is create a dipole and the external "circuit" is completed by the surrounding environment. How does it do this? If you're using an antenna and not two grounds it does it through ionizing the air around the wire due to the high voltage. Some ions are no doubt already present even in air close to the ground but I wouldn't think very many. So by using larger wire than specified, I increased the radius of curvature, thus reducing the electric field intensity and the resulting ionization. So even with 500 feet of wire not much ion current flows. What I really need is 500 feet of really tiny wire, the smallest diameter that is practical to use. If my understanding is correct about this then the antenna shape and orientation don't really matter. So I'm thinking of just building a circular frame with PVC pipe and criscrossing it with fine wire back and forth like spokes of a bicycle wheel. What it really needs is the surface area, but also a very small radius of curvature. If you could get something like very fine steel wool only from copper it would probably work too. I think there will be a balance, too little surface area won't give much current, but too much will load down the high voltage module excessively. What is needed is just enough to give a continuous spark on the PPV's but without dropping the dipole voltage more than a little. It will probably take some experimentation to find the necessary amount of wire.

Yes, you are catching on now!

[Wistiti]

Yes, I now have enough caps and diodes on hand to make a 5-stage multiplier. Unfortunately the multiplier has to be driven with AC and the flyback that came with this ZVS driver is DC, it has an internal multiplier and a final cap. So it's great to use by itself but you can't put an external multiplier on it. I haven't yet tried stacking two batteries and driving it at 24 volts, supposedly these cheap units are rated up to 30 volts input. This will increase the input power requirements quite a bit I feel sure, so not really a great solution. My PVM12 still runs but I think there are issues with it. Depending on what I try to do with it, sometimes I can hear hissing or popping like an HV leak coming from it but I can't see anything even in the dark with the cover off. I'm afraid there is an insulation breakdown somewhere inside the HV transformer. As long as the output voltage stays moderate it works but if the voltage swing gets too high it arcs over internally. I will try driving the multiplier with it and see how far I get. I noticed on the amazing1.com website that replacement transformers are available but of course it's half the price of the whole PVM12 itself. I also had the thought of obtaining a replacement flyback and instead of using it to fix the PVM12, driving it with the ZVS. This will drive it at the resonant frequency of the secondary and ensure maximum voltage rise but the ZVS driver is more powerful and might be too much for the transformer, I don't want to ruin a $50 transformer finding out the hard way.

The output of the zvs/flyback is a pulsed dc... I think it could work with the multiplier...
Anyway, will try and see...

[tswift]

Yes, you are catching on now!

Ok, GOOD! Thanks for weighing in here, Bruce. I feel like I'm starting to understand how this is supposed to work, but as I said previously I have been wrong so many times before I don't want to assume I know too much. I have gotten really familiar with the taste of humble pie....