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  • Wistiti
    replied
    @Tswift
    Im thinking to use a dc boost converter to step up the voltage on the zvs from a single 12v batt.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • radioionics
    replied
    Originally posted by dragon View Post
    I've found, over the years of experimentation, the earth grounds ( ground to ground ) is exceptionally energetic throughout the day and night.

    The main difference between the ground/ground and ground/air is the conversion process. Ground/air requires us to deal with a HV conversion to magnetic then to current, the ground/ground is pure current with little voltage and requires a current to magnetic which leads to voltage.

    The ground/ground has little to no problems in storms with huge current spikes where the ground/air has a significant risk with extreme voltage spikes. I believe the energy density is about the same either way as it all comes from the same place. The major challenge is in the conversion process, either way.... you deal with super high voltages or massive currents.

    Below is an early project I built some 10 years back that functions on grounds only. It will run 24/7 with variations in output - evenings seem most energetic where early mornings are less active which increases to its peak during the day. I believe it's all related to the storm activity around the globe. It uses a ULF ferrite rod and runs in the range of 400hz, I've built several using basic AM frequencies that work well also - all the frequencies that exist, man made and natural, are on the ground lines.

    When setting up your grounds they should be aligned to magnetic North. The North rod(s) must be deeper than the South to match the magnetic dip and no less than 30ft apart. You can use the Hartman and Curry grid as a guidline...

    There are a number of early ground antenna patents that are quite interesting, as well, some of the early earth battery patents can give you some interesting details for harvesting energy from the ground.

    Bruce and I discussed alot of this stuff a few years back, we differed only slightly in most thoughts but I had my head stuck in the ground and he was looking toward the sky.... all fun stuff either way.

    It all depends where you are at the time you need the energy. If you are flying around in an aircraft a two antenna system is required. If you are in your home a two ground system is more practical. The circuits the replicators on this forum are building are a composite of antenna and ground systems.

    I appreciate you sharing your years of experience here on this forum. Sky and ground energy are mirror images of each other. They are manifestations of the same energy source.

    Leave a comment:


  • Mwtj
    replied
    Originally posted by tswift View Post
    Yes, I now have enough caps and diodes on hand to make a 5-stage multiplier. Unfortunately the multiplier has to be driven with AC and the flyback that came with this ZVS driver is DC, it has an internal multiplier and a final cap. So it's great to use by itself but you can't put an external multiplier on it. I haven't yet tried stacking two batteries and driving it at 24 volts, supposedly these cheap units are rated up to 30 volts input. This will increase the input power requirements quite a bit I feel sure, so not really a great solution. My PVM12 still runs but I think there are issues with it. Depending on what I try to do with it, sometimes I can hear hissing or popping like an HV leak coming from it but I can't see anything even in the dark with the cover off. I'm afraid there is an insulation breakdown somewhere inside the HV transformer. As long as the output voltage stays moderate it works but if the voltage swing gets too high it arcs over internally. I will try driving the multiplier with it and see how far I get. I noticed on the amazing1.com website that replacement transformers are available but of course it's half the price of the whole PVM12 itself. I also had the thought of obtaining a replacement flyback and instead of using it to fix the PVM12, driving it with the ZVS. This will drive it at the resonant frequency of the secondary and ensure maximum voltage rise but the ZVS driver is more powerful and might be too much for the transformer, I don't want to ruin a $50 transformer finding out the hard way.
    try using your DC flyback with the PVM

    Leave a comment:


  • tswift
    replied
    Originally posted by Wistiti View Post
    The output of the zvs/flyback is a pulsed dc... I think it could work with the multiplier...
    Anyway, will try and see...
    You are correct, I think pulsed DC would work if it is rectified and doesn't change sign, like an AC half-wave. The problem is that I think there is a final smoothing cap on the output of the internal multiplier module, and that will make it just DC with minimal pulsation. Even my HV probe is only rated to 5KV and that's still too much voltage to attach it directly to the flyback output to measure it. The ZVS will operate down to about 8V input voltage I found so that would reduce it somewhat. I suppose I could also use some of my HV resistors and make voltage divider to measure it, I should have thought of that sooner.

    Leave a comment:


  • tswift
    replied
    Originally posted by radioionics View Post
    Yes, you are catching on now!
    Ok, GOOD! Thanks for weighing in here, Bruce. I feel like I'm starting to understand how this is supposed to work, but as I said previously I have been wrong so many times before I don't want to assume I know too much. I have gotten really familiar with the taste of humble pie....

    Leave a comment:


  • Wistiti
    replied
    Originally posted by tswift View Post
    Yes, I now have enough caps and diodes on hand to make a 5-stage multiplier. Unfortunately the multiplier has to be driven with AC and the flyback that came with this ZVS driver is DC, it has an internal multiplier and a final cap. So it's great to use by itself but you can't put an external multiplier on it. I haven't yet tried stacking two batteries and driving it at 24 volts, supposedly these cheap units are rated up to 30 volts input. This will increase the input power requirements quite a bit I feel sure, so not really a great solution. My PVM12 still runs but I think there are issues with it. Depending on what I try to do with it, sometimes I can hear hissing or popping like an HV leak coming from it but I can't see anything even in the dark with the cover off. I'm afraid there is an insulation breakdown somewhere inside the HV transformer. As long as the output voltage stays moderate it works but if the voltage swing gets too high it arcs over internally. I will try driving the multiplier with it and see how far I get. I noticed on the amazing1.com website that replacement transformers are available but of course it's half the price of the whole PVM12 itself. I also had the thought of obtaining a replacement flyback and instead of using it to fix the PVM12, driving it with the ZVS. This will drive it at the resonant frequency of the secondary and ensure maximum voltage rise but the ZVS driver is more powerful and might be too much for the transformer, I don't want to ruin a $50 transformer finding out the hard way.
    The output of the zvs/flyback is a pulsed dc... I think it could work with the multiplier...
    Anyway, will try and see...

    Leave a comment:


  • radioionics
    replied
    Originally posted by tswift View Post
    I had another idea of a way to improve things. I realized that I goofed with the antenna because I didn't fully understand what was happening on a physical level. The antenna has little if anything to do with receiving AC waves at a given frequency. It is essentially an antenna for DC! As you observed Wisiti, all the device does is create a dipole and the external "circuit" is completed by the surrounding environment. How does it do this? If you're using an antenna and not two grounds it does it through ionizing the air around the wire due to the high voltage. Some ions are no doubt already present even in air close to the ground but I wouldn't think very many. So by using larger wire than specified, I increased the radius of curvature, thus reducing the electric field intensity and the resulting ionization. So even with 500 feet of wire not much ion current flows. What I really need is 500 feet of really tiny wire, the smallest diameter that is practical to use. If my understanding is correct about this then the antenna shape and orientation don't really matter. So I'm thinking of just building a circular frame with PVC pipe and criscrossing it with fine wire back and forth like spokes of a bicycle wheel. What it really needs is the surface area, but also a very small radius of curvature. If you could get something like very fine steel wool only from copper it would probably work too. I think there will be a balance, too little surface area won't give much current, but too much will load down the high voltage module excessively. What is needed is just enough to give a continuous spark on the PPV's but without dropping the dipole voltage more than a little. It will probably take some experimentation to find the necessary amount of wire.

    Yes, you are catching on now!

    Leave a comment:


  • tswift
    replied
    Originally posted by Wistiti View Post
    Im thinking to use a 4 stage "Cockcroft Walton Voltage multiplier" to step up my primary hv.
    Yes, I now have enough caps and diodes on hand to make a 5-stage multiplier. Unfortunately the multiplier has to be driven with AC and the flyback that came with this ZVS driver is DC, it has an internal multiplier and a final cap. So it's great to use by itself but you can't put an external multiplier on it. I haven't yet tried stacking two batteries and driving it at 24 volts, supposedly these cheap units are rated up to 30 volts input. This will increase the input power requirements quite a bit I feel sure, so not really a great solution. My PVM12 still runs but I think there are issues with it. Depending on what I try to do with it, sometimes I can hear hissing or popping like an HV leak coming from it but I can't see anything even in the dark with the cover off. I'm afraid there is an insulation breakdown somewhere inside the HV transformer. As long as the output voltage stays moderate it works but if the voltage swing gets too high it arcs over internally. I will try driving the multiplier with it and see how far I get. I noticed on the amazing1.com website that replacement transformers are available but of course it's half the price of the whole PVM12 itself. I also had the thought of obtaining a replacement flyback and instead of using it to fix the PVM12, driving it with the ZVS. This will drive it at the resonant frequency of the secondary and ensure maximum voltage rise but the ZVS driver is more powerful and might be too much for the transformer, I don't want to ruin a $50 transformer finding out the hard way.

    Leave a comment:


  • Wistiti
    replied
    Originally posted by Mwtj View Post
    Maybe the oxidation of the bare copper wire will make this more effective

    Isolators used are from a electric fence. They are stacked together. Used parrafin wax for further insulation of the wooden dowel inside.

    For a better frequency of the gap use higher voltage.
    Thanks for the info!

    Im thinking to use a 4 stage "Cockcroft Walton Voltage multiplier" to step up my primary hv.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • Mwtj
    replied
    Originally posted by tswift View Post
    I had another idea of a way to improve things. I realized that I goofed with the antenna because I didn't fully understand what was happening on a physical level. The antenna has little if anything to do with receiving AC waves at a given frequency. It is essentially an antenna for DC! As you observed Wisiti, all the device does is create a dipole and the external "circuit" is completed by the surrounding environment. How does it do this? If you're using an antenna and not two grounds it does it through ionizing the air around the wire due to the high voltage. Some ions are no doubt already present even in air close to the ground but I wouldn't think very many. So by using larger wire than specified, I increased the radius of curvature, thus reducing the electric field intensity and the resulting ionization. So even with 500 feet of wire not much ion current flows. What I really need is 500 feet of really tiny wire, the smallest diameter that is practical to use. If my understanding is correct about this then the antenna shape and orientation don't really matter. So I'm thinking of just building a circular frame with PVC pipe and criscrossing it with fine wire back and forth like spokes of a bicycle wheel. What it really needs is the surface area, but also a very small radius of curvature. If you could get something like very fine steel wool only from copper it would probably work too. I think there will be a balance, too little surface area won't give much current, but too much will load down the high voltage module excessively. What is needed is just enough to give a continuous spark on the PPV's but without dropping the dipole voltage more than a little. It will probably take some experimentation to find the necessary amount of wire.
    Maybe the oxidation of the bare copper wire will make this more effective

    Isolators used are from a electric fence. They are stacked together. Used parrafin wax for further insulation of the wooden dowel inside.

    For a better frequency of the gap use higher voltage.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • Wistiti
    replied
    My current antenna is approx. 600ft long... and 5 to 6 ft from the ground.

    Leave a comment:


  • tswift
    replied
    I had another idea of a way to improve things. I realized that I goofed with the antenna because I didn't fully understand what was happening on a physical level. The antenna has little if anything to do with receiving AC waves at a given frequency. It is essentially an antenna for DC! As you observed Wisiti, all the device does is create a dipole and the external "circuit" is completed by the surrounding environment. How does it do this? If you're using an antenna and not two grounds it does it through ionizing the air around the wire due to the high voltage. Some ions are no doubt already present even in air close to the ground but I wouldn't think very many. So by using larger wire than specified, I increased the radius of curvature, thus reducing the electric field intensity and the resulting ionization. So even with 500 feet of wire not much ion current flows. What I really need is 500 feet of really tiny wire, the smallest diameter that is practical to use. If my understanding is correct about this then the antenna shape and orientation don't really matter. So I'm thinking of just building a circular frame with PVC pipe and criscrossing it with fine wire back and forth like spokes of a bicycle wheel. What it really needs is the surface area, but also a very small radius of curvature. If you could get something like very fine steel wool only from copper it would probably work too. I think there will be a balance, too little surface area won't give much current, but too much will load down the high voltage module excessively. What is needed is just enough to give a continuous spark on the PPV's but without dropping the dipole voltage more than a little. It will probably take some experimentation to find the necessary amount of wire.

    Leave a comment:


  • radioionics
    replied
    Nice work!

    Leave a comment:


  • Wistiti
    replied
    Nice setup guys!
    Twsift your rate of sparking is almost the same as mine... think we have to go higher in primary voltage...

    MWjt really nice build! I really like your isolation. What is the part you waiting for?

    Leave a comment:


  • Mwtj
    replied
    Almost done.

    Single coil and the double coils.
    Antenna and two grounds.

    Waiting for the last parts to finish the PPV.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Mwtj; 01-26-2017, 12:35 PM.

    Leave a comment:

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