Tesla Radiant Energy Patent Conundrum
Take a look at the transformer configuration in Tesla's two radiant energy patents. Something look out of place? You probably wouldn't have noticed until I just pointed it out to you. The primary and secondary appear that they are reversed. Are they? Read Tesla's description. Both patents read the same. If the description is correct you will have to think what you have been lead to believe from the distractors over the years. When you do I would like to hear what you have to say about your oversight.
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Yes, I don't really think using the house ground is a good idea either but it's what I had without doing a whole other project to drive a new ground rod. Driving the second ground rod was probably 20 or more hours of hard work busting rock and digging a very deep hole. Both ground rods are standard US electrical code, 8 feet long by 1/2" steel with copper plating. The close one is only buried about 6.5 feet because that's where I hit the second rock layer....
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Originally posted by tswift View PostI did some live testing of the unit outside with the antenna. I compared the results running with the antenna vs. two separate ground. For me the results with the antenna were unimpressive but the two grounds were much better. I get light on the bulb, and it's significantly brighter than when I was driving the primary directly from the ZVS. It's hard to call this a proven power gain but it does look promising.
First video, running with the antenna:
https://gateway.ipfs.io/ipfs/QmajPV7...LPu2Tjt2vZdeoJ
Second video, two grounds:
https://gateway.ipfs.io/ipfs/QmUjLWt...u19GwkKw7ekz8D
N.B. the two grounds are about 60 feet apart. The one ground rod I show in the video right next to the box with the device, the other ground is the house mains and is at the opposite end of my house. I measured about 0.25V difference between the two.
I don't think using house ground is a good idea... may have some return from the grid and if you put hv on it, it may be dangerous... to take shocking inside the house.
Anyway it is a nice demonstration with the ground only. Does your 2ground are made of same metal?
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Originally posted by tswift View PostI'm using the IPFS system to replicate files to the internet. It's like bittorrent, it takes a little while to seed so if you try it too soon after I post it then it may not work. I checked both links just now and they load for me, so if it's not working for you just wait a little while and try again.
ok i will try later
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Originally posted by med.3012 View PostHi !
i can't open the link ! any help ?
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Originally posted by tswift View PostI did some live testing of the unit outside with the antenna. I compared the results running with the antenna vs. two separate ground. For me the results with the antenna were unimpressive but the two grounds were much better. I get light on the bulb, and it's significantly brighter than when I was driving the primary directly from the ZVS. It's hard to call this a proven power gain but it does look promising.
First video, running with the antenna:
https://gateway.ipfs.io/ipfs/QmajPV7...LPu2Tjt2vZdeoJ
Second video, two grounds:
https://gateway.ipfs.io/ipfs/QmUjLWt...u19GwkKw7ekz8D
N.B. the two grounds are about 60 feet apart. The one ground rod I show in the video right next to the box with the device, the other ground is the house mains and is at the opposite end of my house. I measured about 0.25V difference between the two.
Hi !
i can't open the link ! any help ?
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I did some live testing of the unit outside with the antenna. I compared the results running with the antenna vs. two separate ground. For me the results with the antenna were unimpressive but the two grounds were much better. I get light on the bulb, and it's significantly brighter than when I was driving the primary directly from the ZVS. It's hard to call this a proven power gain but it does look promising.
First video, running with the antenna:
https://gateway.ipfs.io/ipfs/QmajPV7...LPu2Tjt2vZdeoJ
Second video, two grounds:
https://gateway.ipfs.io/ipfs/QmUjLWt...u19GwkKw7ekz8D
N.B. the two grounds are about 60 feet apart. The one ground rod I show in the video right next to the box with the device, the other ground is the house mains and is at the opposite end of my house. I measured about 0.25V difference between the two.Last edited by tswift; 01-18-2017, 11:50 PM.
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Originally posted by Mwtj View PostWhat type/number is the flyback? Looks like a standard monitor flyback. Most of those have a capacitor on the last stage.
Can look it up if you like.Attached Files
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Originally posted by tswift View PostI think there is a cap in the flyback but I haven't checked. It is a DC flyback and I know it has an internal diode, and it has a focus output so I'm pretty sure that means it has an internal multiplier, probably a 3-stage multiplier. I would suspect that there is a smoothing cap on the output of the final multiplier stage, but you probably know more about flybacks than I do.
Can look it up if you like.Last edited by Mwtj; 01-18-2017, 08:10 PM.
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Originally posted by Mwtj View PostIs there a cap in the flyback?. Because i got the same results with the gap. I think it is because of the flyback residual charge in combination with C1. This will increase when the voltage rises.
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Originally posted by tswift View PostWell, one of my hobbies/side jobs is that I do kinfe and tool sharpening so I have a selection of grinders. I chucked the bolts in a hand drill and pressed the tip against the running belt of a belt grinder with a 36 grit belt to start with, this is normally used for sharpening mower blades. Then I worked up progressively in grit to 400. To get the slight convex shape on the aluminum bolt I took the platen off the belt grinder and used it as a "slack belt", that is where the belt sags and bit and drapes as you press against it. Slack belt sharpening is excellent for knives and scissors, where it produces a slightly convex edge. I looked at the point of the steel bolt under magnification and it is fairly sharp. It feels sharp if you touch it. As I discovered, sometimes the gap will break down even with the HV off (but with some residual charge remaining on C1), so I assume the sharp tip is helping cause field emission of electrons. I can't say for sure that I know what exactly it's doing, but so far everything Bruce has said seems to be working.Last edited by Mwtj; 01-18-2017, 07:45 PM.
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Well, one of my hobbies/side jobs is that I do kinfe and tool sharpening so I have a selection of grinders. I chucked the bolts in a hand drill and pressed the tip against the running belt of a belt grinder with a 36 grit belt to start with, this is normally used for sharpening mower blades. Then I worked up progressively in grit to 400. To get the slight convex shape on the aluminum bolt I took the platen off the belt grinder and used it as a "slack belt", that is where the belt sags and bit and drapes as you press against it. Slack belt sharpening is excellent for knives and scissors, where it produces a slightly convex edge. I looked at the point of the steel bolt under magnification and it is fairly sharp. It feels sharp if you touch it. As I discovered, sometimes the gap will break down even with the HV off (but with some residual charge remaining on C1), so I assume the sharp tip is helping cause field emission of electrons. I can't say for sure that I know what exactly it's doing, but so far everything Bruce has said seems to be working.
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Originally posted by tswift View PostOK, I promised pictures so here they are. One shows the revised PPV components, the other is the completed new bench test arrangement with the L1 and L2 coils. L1 is 20.5 turns of 40KV rated wire around an 8 inch form and L2 is 2 turns of the same wire around a 10 inch form. I didn't have time yesterday to do anything more than previously described. I did note that when using the screwdriver as an antenna, I would get sparks up to about half an inch long jumping from the PPV anode bolt to the screwdriver whenever I approached it or withdrew from it. When the screwdriver is touching the PPV starts sparking and the spark color seems more whitish than bluish.
I also noticed that various small dust particles around the PPV started dancing when I had the HV on and especially once I touched the screwdriver. Some of this might just be electrostatic repulsion but I'm not sure.
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OK, I promised pictures so here they are. One shows the revised PPV components, the other is the completed new bench test arrangement with the L1 and L2 coils. L1 is 20.5 turns of 40KV rated wire around an 8 inch form and L2 is 2 turns of the same wire around a 10 inch form. I didn't have time yesterday to do anything more than previously described. I did note that when using the screwdriver as an antenna, I would get sparks up to about half an inch long jumping from the PPV anode bolt to the screwdriver whenever I approached it or withdrew from it. When the screwdriver is touching the PPV starts sparking and the spark color seems more whitish than bluish.
I also noticed that various small dust particles around the PPV started dancing when I had the HV on and especially once I touched the screwdriver. Some of this might just be electrostatic repulsion but I'm not sure.
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