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That is what I hoped for!
Thank you Dave. But we really need to thank DS for all that he did. I'm not the smartest guy on earth and if I can do it, well then, who can't.
I don't know if this will help or for that matter if it is needed at all, but wanted to share how I figured things out, so here is a simple method that can be used for selecting the wire for building L1 and L2.
Wire Selection
I decided that I should explain the method I used to determine the proper wires to be used. I hope this helps.
First, start with the L1 coil wire that you want to use. I use 4 gauge bare copper wire purchased at Home Depot. Now, let’s say you plan to use 16 gauge wire for L2. I started by cutting a piece of the 4 gauge wire 12 inches long. The cuts must be flush, not irregular as would happen with cutting pliers. The length of your 4 gauge wire must be exact. Then, you must take the 16 gauge wire and strip all the insulation material cleanly from it and then measure the weights of the two against each other. Cut the length of the 16 gauge wire longer than should be needed so that once you start weighing it, you can remove the unwanted length until you have two separate pieces of wire that weigh exactly the same. Since 4 gauge wire is exactly four times greater than 16, when the weight is the same, you will have your four to one ratio. But you are not out of the woods yet. Now you must measure the length of the two wires to see if the 4 to 1 ratio is met also. If not, then you will need to find a different 16 gauge wire to test. When building the L2 coil, wire with or without insulating material is more a personal choice determined by the spacing used in construction.
4 to 1 in length plus 4 to 1 in weight is the goal and when they match, then build the coils and you wont have to worry about the proper number of turns to use. The only other thing that must be done is to locate the proper point for the center tap and DS explains that very well.
I did a google search two days ago which brought me to this thread. Reading the posts left me feeling that people were frustrated and loosing interest. I normally don’t post comments anywhere, but felt in this case, something should be said. My hope is that you folks will now move on to building working models of this motionless generator and maybe find new and better ways to do it. That would be a good thing.
Thank you Dave. But we really need to thank DS for all that he did. I'm not the smartest guy on earth and if I can do it, well then, who can't.
I don't know if this will help or for that matter if it is needed at all, but wanted to share how I figured things out, so here is a simple method that can be used for selecting the wire for building L1 and L2.
Wire Selection
I decided that I should explain the method I used to determine the proper wires to be used. I hope this helps.
First, start with the L1 coil wire that you want to use. I use 4 gauge bare copper wire purchased at Home Depot. Now, let’s say you plan to use 16 gauge wire for L2. I started by cutting a piece of the 4 gauge wire 12 inches long. The cuts must be flush, not irregular as would happen with cutting pliers. The length of your 4 gauge wire must be exact. Then, you must take the 16 gauge wire and strip all the insulation material cleanly from it and then measure the weights of the two against each other. Cut the length of the 16 gauge wire longer than should be needed so that once you start weighing it, you can remove the unwanted length until you have two separate pieces of wire that weigh exactly the same. Since 4 gauge wire is exactly four times greater than 16, when the weight is the same, you will have your four to one ratio. But you are not out of the woods yet. Now you must measure the length of the two wires to see if the 4 to 1 ratio is met also. If not, then you will need to find a different 16 gauge wire to test. When building the L2 coil, wire with or without insulating material is more a personal choice determined by the spacing used in construction.
4 to 1 in length plus 4 to 1 in weight is the goal and when they match, then build the coils and you wont have to worry about the proper number of turns to use. The only other thing that must be done is to locate the proper point for the center tap and DS explains that very well.
I did a google search two days ago which brought me to this thread. Reading the posts left me feeling that people were frustrated and loosing interest. I normally don’t post comments anywhere, but felt in this case, something should be said. My hope is that you folks will now move on to building working models of this motionless generator and maybe find new and better ways to do it. That would be a good thing.
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