Originally posted by xee2
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Donald Smith Devices too good to be true
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Originally posted by boguslaw View PostI see. However I'm not using strictly JouleThief but simply oscillator based on CD4047 chip and driving MJE13009 transistor to switch 12V to 1:1 choke as I described in other thread. Surprisingle for me the output are spikes up to 200V.I think it may be similiar to JT because those spikes are only possible due to high rate of change of magnetic flux not by turn ratio (1:1 ferrite choke from TV). It's another story how we could use this info but I'm looking for a way to get about 3kV very tiny current output like Kapanadze faint spark or kacher plasma on top wire.
Joule thief - for Christmas tree lights - YouTube
simple flyback circuit - YouTube
Joule thief lighting xenon - YouTubeLast edited by xee2; 05-18-2012, 07:22 PM.
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@ boguslaw
If you want sparks you should probably use a flyback circuit.
simple flyback circuit - YouTube
Note that I am not sure what other transistors will work and you will need to determine which pins to use for your flyback since all flybacks seem to have different pin numbers.
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Hello Dragon
Hi Dragon,
Hello. I was not directing my comment at you.
You are a very sharp electrical fellow and it is great to have you sharing again.
I am not the enemy. I spend a lot of time and effort trying to help this thread move forward.
P.S.: I would have posted earlier but I could not get back in at Energetic for the last hour or so. Sorry about that!!
Best Regards,
David Fine
Originally posted by dragon View PostIf that is directed at me, you can be assured that I won't post anything of any substance here. I have no desire to share any of my successes here, where a few weeks ago I may have shared everything.
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Pvc???
Originally posted by boguslaw View PostQuestion : what is the danger in using PVC for HV high frequency ?????
What about cardboard tube ?
Now, what about PVC???
Well, after reading Patrick Kelly's eBook, I am under the impression PVC coil formers aren't good for HV high frequency coils. It's got something to do with PVC's insulating properties, but I'm not fully aware what the exact problem is.
Just for the record though, if you read the section about the Don Smith device replication on chapter 3 of Patrick's eBook, it states that PVC can be used if it has a good coating of Shellac or something similar. I believe ping-pong (table tennis) balls, dissolved in acetone has a similar effect, although Shellac is still available as a wood coating (sanding sealer, not expensive).
I wasn't taking any chances & got myself 4 pieces of acrylic tube (100mm long of 50mm diameter for my primary transformer (my very own NST), 700mm long of 50mm diameter for my L1, & 300mm long of each 80mm & 100mm diameter for my larger L2 coils (so I can experiment with different turn numbers with the 1/4 length of wire) these will allow the long L1 coil to slide in & out as well)
I would love to know what the exact problem with PVC coil formers is? Maybe Patrick can shed some more light on it for us??? I didn't think the acrylic was that expensive, especially as I was able to order it in specific, cut lengths. If I had gone for PVC I would be stuck with massive great 2 or 3 metre lengths of the stuff from the local plumbers merchants.
Anyway, I will take some pics of my build, as I get on next week (can't do anything this weekend ) & post them up, for any interested parties.
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Zilano Post from May 17
Zilano
May 17
The Secret !
THE SECRET!
watch 2nd half to realize wot ur goal is
the magic of 0 current input and power of the horses tandem i must
say.
Tariel Kapanadze overunity motor 02 free energy - YouTube
Tariel Kapanadze overunity motor 02 free energy - YouTube
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PVC pipe coils
Originally posted by nutgone View PostAFAIK cardboard will be fine, just as long as you are not expecting your coil to get very hot.
Now, what about PVC???
Well, after reading Patrick Kelly's eBook, I am under the impression PVC coil formers aren't good for HV high frequency coils. It's got something to do with PVC's insulating properties, but I'm not fully aware what the exact problem is.
Just for the record though, if you read the section about the Don Smith device replication on chapter 3 of Patrick's eBook, it states that PVC can be used if it has a good coating of Shellac or something similar. I believe ping-pong (table tennis) balls, dissolved in acetone has a similar effect, although Shellac is still available as a wood coating (sanding sealer, not expensive).
I wasn't taking any chances & got myself 4 pieces of acrylic tube (100mm long of 50mm diameter for my primary transformer (my very own NST), 700mm long of 50mm diameter for my L1, & 300mm long of each 80mm & 100mm diameter for my larger L2 coils (so I can experiment with different turn numbers with the 1/4 length of wire) these will allow the long L1 coil to slide in & out as well)
I would love to know what the exact problem with PVC coil formers is? Maybe Patrick can shed some more light on it for us??? I didn't think the acrylic was that expensive, especially as I was able to order it in specific, cut lengths. If I had gone for PVC I would be stuck with massive great 2 or 3 metre lengths of the stuff from the local plumbers merchants.
Anyway, I will take some pics of my build, as I get on next week (can't do anything this weekend ) & post them up, for any interested parties.
I'm told by an expert (now retired after years as a professional in cutting-edge scientific research and development) that PVC is fine for low frequency work but that as the frequency rises, the PVC has an increasingly adverse effect on the "Q" (for "Quality") of the coil, making it perform less and less well. As far as I am aware, there is no danger at all from any safety aspect - it is solely to do with performance. If PVC is used, then I have seen it said that white is better than grey as the grey colour is caused by carbon particles embedded in the plastic, and they don't help matters at all.
You will notice that the the high-quality high-frequency coils made by Barker & Williamson do not have a former of any kind, the turns in the coil being supported by their own strength, augmented with four narrow plastic strips for extra rigidity. That is not done to make the coil look pretty.
Interestingly, people who are having success with their coil resonance, disagree on whether the connecting wires form part of the coil. The answer to that appears to be that it depends on the way that the connecting wires are arranged. If the coil is wound with thick wire and that same thick wire is run through to connector terminals, then the connecting lengths DO form part of the coil length. On the other hand, if the wire diameter drops dramatically at the end of the turns, either by removing some of the strands in stranded wire, or by using a connector or joint to connecting wires which have a very different cross-sectional area, then the connecting wires do NOT form part of the resonant coil winding.
The reason for this is that at the coil's resonant frequency, a standing wave develops inside the wire because the signal bounces off the end of the wire and is reflected back along the wire. If the wire in the coil is continued after the turns and carried through to a connector, then the reflection will take place at the connector even though the connecting wires are not coil turns but are relatively straight. The signal won't care and will bounce off the end of the straight cable.
So, the successful developers who have connecting wires of different diameter will say that they have proved that the connecting wires should NOT be included in the resonant coil length. The successful developers who run the coil wire on from the coil to a terminal will say that they have proved that the connecting wire lengths SHOULD be included in the resonant length.
That's the theory and it matches with the test results which I have been told about, but I expect that this post will trigger another which will dispute this (perhaps they can demonstrate that the resonant length depends on the day of the week when you test it - all part of life's rich pattern!).
Patrick
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DilJalaay
Scribd won't let me load the DS Book there. I've made at least five attempts and they all failed. Maybe tomorrow it will work.
Originally posted by DilJalaay View PostDavid, can you please upload that pdf to scrib and post here a link, as i can not access the posted link by stoker.
kind regards,
D.j
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Originally posted by boguslaw View PostP.S. I'm still looking for help with a fain spark generator, anyone ? did somebody constructed voltage multiplier ? there should be only a few ways to make faint sparks like in Kapanadze device, ony a few, so please help replicate faint spark device ,ok ?
STUN GUN Circuit
or something like that.
I want sparks & I want them NOW!
I just dont know, how much the Capacitance, what you add here, influnce this System.
This cut wires into equal parts and use them in parallel is maybe the best idea for a simple way to get equal Coils.Theorizer are like High Voltage. A lot hot Air with no Power behind but they are the dead of applied Work and Ideas.
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Quote from David Fine:
Zilano
May 17
The Secret !
THE SECRET!
watch 2nd half to realize wot ur goal is
the magic of 0 current input and power of the horses tandem i must
say.
Tariel Kapanadze overunity motor 02 free energy - YouTube
Tariel Kapanadze overunity motor 02 free energy - YouTube
Not really sure what's going on; kinda looks like a double Faraday homopolar motor with disc, except there are 2 on the shaft. Does an energized toroid cause it to spin?
My 2 cents....
bob
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This has to do with Don's device in that it shows how the primary ties to the secondarys
start here http://www.energeticforum.com/renewa...tml#post193678Last edited by Dave45; 05-19-2012, 12:05 AM.Half of the Answer is knowing the right Question
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Thanks!!
Thanks Bob!!
Originally posted by Bob Smith View PostQuote from David Fine:
About 21 minutes in, the video shows a toroid transformer at the end of the shaft supporting the two rotors. It seems that when they feed power into the toroid, the shaft begins to spin. About a minute before that, there's a close-up of the shaft between the 2 rotors, which is wrapped with a fairly heavier gauge wire (maybe 16 gauge?) that looks more like steel than copper.
Not really sure what's going on; kinda looks like a double Faraday homopolar motor with disc, except there are 2 on the shaft. Does an energized toroid cause it to spin?
My 2 cents....
bob
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