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  • Originally posted by woopy View Post
    Hi jeofr

    great work , i am impressed by your great inspiring work

    Hi Mr clean
    hi Kurt very near the aim bravo

    at all

    some idea for the vacancy in music

    good luck at all

    Laurent

    Charging by induction music - YouTube
    hi mr.woopy,

    very entertaining and impressive work.
    yes music is life force it affects our mind and hearts.

    admire and appreciate your openess to share and experiment.
    admirable work.

    thanks and regards

    dunfasto

    Comment


    • Originally posted by GSM View Post
      Is L3 not at live end of L2, thus any ground at L3 would kill transfer ?
      Also earth for L3 diode rectifications is via toroidal transformer interwinding coupling ?
      Hi gsm,

      it will compensate and enhance if resonance is not matched as the placing position of this L 3 coil on the kacher long coil affects the output fed to caps and to find the best position of this L3 coil connect a bulb across two ends of L3 coil and move it along the length of kacher long coil when the bulb light its brightest fix coil at that position and connect earth and the bulb will light up more brighter.

      the frequency is still HF when rectified will give more brighter lights at output of inverter after transformer.

      thanks and regards

      dunfasto
      Last edited by dunfasto; 06-27-2012, 05:07 AM.

      Comment


      • Originally posted by joefr View Post
        Hi All again

        This is my new setup with Kacher Tesla Coil and StepDown 300VA 230V - 12V Toroid transformer. The load in this setup does not affect the input. OK, it affect it a little as the input goes down a little when I connect 12V 60W Car bulb to StepDown transformer output.

        JoeFR
        Hi joefr,

        to reduce input use the following figure arrangement and see the difference. dont use L3 coil. and keep the L1 coil close to the cold end of longer kacher coil.the load wont affect input in any way and output performance will not be affected. your present consumption will get reduced to 300-500 ma at 24 volt.







        energy of your caps



        the energy of your cap bank is 4.297 joules that is 4.3 watts approx. i dont know your frequency if your cap charges in one second then you are pulsing with 4.3 watts/second approx to toroid.

        spark frequency also decides the power fetched and pulsed to transformer. the rate at which it is pulsed to toroid transformer.

        cap charging and the storage energy the cap hold decides your power at the input of your toroid transformer. since it is still high frequency the real amperage is not known. if you are to take measurements of input and output you must convert output to pure dc then do measurements.


        thanks and regards

        dunfasto
        Last edited by dunfasto; 08-24-2013, 11:05 PM.

        Comment


        • Originally posted by dunfasto View Post
          Hi mr. clean,

          you have done so much work on don smith device. i admire your work and the zeal and enthusiasm you put in and the videos have been inspirational for others to follow your track.
          wish you good luck and all the best for the final run.

          thanks and regards

          dunfasto
          Youre too kind, thank you im glad to have others to share it with!
          In the beginner's mind, there are many possibilities.
          In the expert's mind there are few.
          -Shunryu Suzuki

          Comment


          • Spark Gap

            Hi All

            Thanks for all the suggestions to improve my setup.

            But I have to first solve the problem with my Spark which is not working OK so I cant tune the device correctly.

            Here I found at my local supplier Tungsten electrodes but they have different types and I dont know which one to choose. They have RED GREEN GREY and GOLD electrodes.

            So if somebody have some experience with this electrodes I would be happy for right direction.

            Here are the data of Tungsten electrodes:
            RED:

            Thoriated tungsten electrodes (AWS classification EWTh-2) contain a minimum of 97.30 percent tungsten and 1.70 to 2.20 percent thorium and are called 2 percent thoriated. They are the most commonly used electrodes today and are preferred for their longevity and ease of use. Thorium increases the electron emission qualities of the electrode, which improves arc starts and allows for a higher current-carrying capacity. This electrode operates far below its melting temperature, which results in a considerably lower rate of consumption and eliminates arc wandering for greater stability. Compared with other electrodes, thoriated electrodes deposit less tungsten into the weld puddle, so they cause less weld contamination.
            These electrodes are used mainly for specialty AC welding (such as thin-gauge aluminum and material less than 0.060 inch) and DC welding, either electrode negative or straight polarity, on carbon steel, stainless steel, nickel, and titanium.
            During manufacturing, thorium is evenly dispersed throughout the electrode, which helps the tungsten maintain its sharpened edge—the ideal electrode shape for welding thin steel—after grinding. Note: Thorium is radioactive; therefore, you must always follow the manufacturer's warnings, instructions, and the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for its use.

            GREY:

            Rare-earth tungsten electrodes (AWS classification EWG) contain unspecified additives of rare-earth oxides or hybrid combinations of different oxides, but manufacturers are required to identify each additive and its percentage on the package. Depending on the additives, desired results can include a stable arc in both AC and DC processes, greater longevity than thoriated tungsten, the ability to use a smaller-diameter electrode for the same job, use of a higher current for a similar-sized electrode, and less tungsten spitting.

            GREEN:

            Pure tungsten electrodes (AWS classification EWP) contain 99.50 percent tungsten, have the highest consumption rate of all electrodes, and typically are less expensive than their alloyed counterparts.
            These electrodes form a clean, balled tip when heated and provide great arc stability for AC welding with a balanced wave. Pure tungsten also provides good arc stability for AC sine wave welding, especially on aluminum and magnesium. It is not typically used for DC welding because it does not provide the strong arc starts associated with thoriated or ceriated electrodes.

            GOLD:

            Lanthanated tungsten electrodes (AWS classification EWLa-1.5) contain a minimum of 97.80 percent tungsten and 1.30 percent to 1.70 percent lanthanum, or lanthana, and are known as 1.5 percent lanthanated. These electrodes have excellent arc starting, a low
            burnoff rate, good arc stability, and excellent reignition characteristics—many of the same advantages as ceriated electrodes. Lanthanated electrodes also share the conductivity characteristics of 2 percent thoriated tungsten. In some cases, 1.5 percent lanthanated can replace 2 percent thoriated without having to make significant welding program changes.
            Lanthanated tungsten electrodes are ideal if you want to optimize your welding capabilities. They work well on AC or DC electrode negative with a pointed end, or they can be balled for use with AC sine wave power sources.Lanthanated tungsten maintains a sharpened point well, which is an advantage for welding steel and stainless steel on DC or AC from square wave power sources.
            Unlike thoriated tungsten, these electrodes are suitable for AC welding and, like ceriated electrodes, allow the arc to be started and maintained at lower voltages. Compared with pure tungsten, the addition of 1.5 percent lanthana increases the maximum current-carrying capacity by approximately 50 percent for a given electrode size

            JoeFR

            Comment


            • Originally posted by joefr View Post
              Hi All

              Thanks for all the suggestions to improve my setup.

              But I have to first solve the problem with my Spark which is not working OK so I cant tune the device correctly.

              Here I found at my local supplier Tungsten electrodes but they have different types and I dont know which one to choose. They have RED GREEN GREY and GOLD electrodes.

              So if somebody have some experience with this electrodes I would be happy for right direction.

              Here are the data of Tungsten electrodes:
              RED:

              Thoriated tungsten electrodes (AWS classification EWTh-2) contain a minimum of 97.30 percent tungsten and 1.70 to 2.20 percent thorium and are called 2 percent thoriated. They are the most commonly used electrodes today and are preferred for their longevity and ease of use. Thorium increases the electron emission qualities of the electrode, which improves arc starts and allows for a higher current-carrying capacity. This electrode operates far below its melting temperature, which results in a considerably lower rate of consumption and eliminates arc wandering for greater stability. Compared with other electrodes, thoriated electrodes deposit less tungsten into the weld puddle, so they cause less weld contamination.
              These electrodes are used mainly for specialty AC welding (such as thin-gauge aluminum and material less than 0.060 inch) and DC welding, either electrode negative or straight polarity, on carbon steel, stainless steel, nickel, and titanium.
              During manufacturing, thorium is evenly dispersed throughout the electrode, which helps the tungsten maintain its sharpened edge—the ideal electrode shape for welding thin steel—after grinding. Note: Thorium is radioactive; therefore, you must always follow the manufacturer's warnings, instructions, and the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for its use.

              GREY:

              Rare-earth tungsten electrodes (AWS classification EWG) contain unspecified additives of rare-earth oxides or hybrid combinations of different oxides, but manufacturers are required to identify each additive and its percentage on the package. Depending on the additives, desired results can include a stable arc in both AC and DC processes, greater longevity than thoriated tungsten, the ability to use a smaller-diameter electrode for the same job, use of a higher current for a similar-sized electrode, and less tungsten spitting.

              GREEN:

              Pure tungsten electrodes (AWS classification EWP) contain 99.50 percent tungsten, have the highest consumption rate of all electrodes, and typically are less expensive than their alloyed counterparts.
              These electrodes form a clean, balled tip when heated and provide great arc stability for AC welding with a balanced wave. Pure tungsten also provides good arc stability for AC sine wave welding, especially on aluminum and magnesium. It is not typically used for DC welding because it does not provide the strong arc starts associated with thoriated or ceriated electrodes.

              GOLD:

              Lanthanated tungsten electrodes (AWS classification EWLa-1.5) contain a minimum of 97.80 percent tungsten and 1.30 percent to 1.70 percent lanthanum, or lanthana, and are known as 1.5 percent lanthanated. These electrodes have excellent arc starting, a low
              burnoff rate, good arc stability, and excellent reignition characteristics—many of the same advantages as ceriated electrodes. Lanthanated electrodes also share the conductivity characteristics of 2 percent thoriated tungsten. In some cases, 1.5 percent lanthanated can replace 2 percent thoriated without having to make significant welding program changes.
              Lanthanated tungsten electrodes are ideal if you want to optimize your welding capabilities. They work well on AC or DC electrode negative with a pointed end, or they can be balled for use with AC sine wave power sources.Lanthanated tungsten maintains a sharpened point well, which is an advantage for welding steel and stainless steel on DC or AC from square wave power sources.
              Unlike thoriated tungsten, these electrodes are suitable for AC welding and, like ceriated electrodes, allow the arc to be started and maintained at lower voltages. Compared with pure tungsten, the addition of 1.5 percent lanthana increases the maximum current-carrying capacity by approximately 50 percent for a given electrode size

              JoeFR
              Hi joefr,

              use gdt and use in series if u want to increase gap. or use stainless steel needles with pointed ends encased in glass tube with enough diameter to slide in needle for adjustments

              and if you want to go for ready made then best choice is RED- thoriated tungsten as you are pulsing DC to coil.thanks and regards

              dunfasto
              Last edited by dunfasto; 06-27-2012, 09:45 AM.

              Comment


              • Hi Dunfasto

                I tried different types of GDT-s but they are not working as good as open spark gap.

                So I like to try open spark gap with tungsten electrodes.

                JoeFR

                Comment


                • Originally posted by joefr View Post
                  Hi Dunfasto

                  I tried different types of GDT-s but they are not working as good as open spark gap.

                  So I like to try open spark gap with tungsten electrodes.

                  JoeFR
                  use Red- thoriated tungsten. as you are pulsing DC to coil. try to make spark silent by adding resistor in series with coil.

                  T and R
                  dunfasto
                  Last edited by dunfasto; 06-27-2012, 09:52 AM.

                  Comment


                  • Safety hazard "alternatives to thoriated tungsten are available"

                    Originally posted by dunfasto View Post
                    use Red- thoriated tungsten. as you are pulsing DC to coil. try to make spark silent by adding resistor in series with coil.

                    T and R
                    dunfasto
                    @joefr @ dunfasto @Mr. Clean @ woopy and all

                    A step forward in the mile stone progress Thank you for sharing your achievements.

                    Due to safety hazard alternatives to thoriated tungsten are available

                    1.5% Lanthanated tungsten electrodes (AWS classification EWLa-1.5) Lanthanated tungstens are acceptable alternatives to thoriated tungstens even in performance. The Danish Welding Institute has recommended that thoriated tungsten be phased out in Denmark since non-radioactive alternatives are available.

                    Hope it helps
                    Regards
                    JJ

                    Comment


                    • @ JoeFR

                      Dynatron is using pure tungsten.

                      I read somewhere that you can shape one to make an anode and cathode.

                      Encase them in a pyrex tube under vacuum for smoother, quieter operation

                      You will have to experiment with the pressure.

                      Comment


                      • Tesla used magnets near the spark gap to quench and quiet them. He also tried air blowing on it I believe (not especially efficient though when you are trying to achieve OU).
                        There is no important work, there are only a series of moments to demonstrate your mastery and impeccability. Quote from Almine

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by dunfasto View Post
                          scalar amplification

                          ScalarWaves - Vidéo Dailymotion



                          thanks and regards

                          dunfasto
                          Looks Fake, If there is not a battery in the little thingy with the LED in it and a
                          magnetic switch operated by a magnet under the bench, then I think there
                          must be a HF coil under the bench and the ones on top of the bench are
                          receiving charge by transformer action or other action. Easily done I think. I think
                          there is an input. Only one person can prove it is not a fake and that is the
                          maker of the video. It doesn't make any sense to think it is real free energy
                          with no user input without better proof than that. I think anyone with a basic
                          knowledge of coils/transformers could pull that trick.

                          Is this your video dunfasto ? I think it is important to know if it is your video.
                          If it is your video can you show the experiment on a concrete floor ?

                          That trick doesn't look much different to the trick I did in this video below.

                          Free Energy Coils In Action.wmv - YouTube

                          Except I didn't put a funny lookin coil on the bench.

                          Cheers

                          The transmitter coil I used to do that trick was a solid state Tesla transformer
                          powered by a 12 volt battery with roughly 7 to 8 watts of input power and
                          the transmitter coil was situated about 3 meters away out of shot with no
                          connection at all to the receiver shown. The receiver coil has no connection
                          to anything and there was nothing under the wooden thing it sits on
                          (which is beside the point anyway) but I thought I would mention that as well.
                          Pretty much anything we can imagine as real can be faked, we need to get
                          used to that fact.

                          2nd P.S. I found when doing transmitter receiver experiments that more stable
                          and consistent results can be got with lower frequencies, in my opinion
                          because it is much easier to match resonance of transmitter and receiver
                          because a small change on a 50 kHz coil produces a much smaller change
                          than a small adjustment on a 5 mHz coil It's not easy to tune a coil
                          to say 5 449 200 Hz.
                          it's much easier to tune a coil to 449 200 Hz. Changes on approaching have a
                          lesser effect as well. In my opinion that is.

                          ..

                          ..
                          Last edited by Farmhand; 06-27-2012, 07:40 PM.

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by Farmhand View Post
                            Looks Fake, If there is not a battery in the little thingy with the LED in it and a
                            magnetic switch operated by a magnet under the bench, then I think there
                            must be a HF coil under the bench and the ones on top of the bench are
                            receiving charge by transformer action or other action. Easily done I think. I think
                            there is an input. Only one person can prove it is not a fake and that is the
                            maker of the video. It doesn't make any sense to think it is real free energy
                            with no user input without better proof than that. I think anyone with a basic
                            knowledge of coils/transformers could pull that trick.

                            Is this your video dunfasto ? I think it is important to know if it is your video.
                            If it is your video can you show the experiment on a concrete floor ?

                            That trick doesn't look much different to the trick I did in this video below.

                            Free Energy Coils In Action.wmv - YouTube

                            Except I didn't put a funny lookin coil on the bench.

                            Cheers

                            The transmitter coil I used to do that trick was a solid state Tesla transformer
                            powered by a 12 volt battery with roughly 7 to 8 watts of input power and
                            the transmitter coil was situated about 3 meters away out of shot with no
                            connection at all to the receiver shown. The receiver coil has no connection
                            to anything and there was nothing under the wooden thing it sits on
                            (which is beside the point anyway) but I thought I would mention that as well.
                            Pretty much anything we can imagine as real can be faked, we need to get
                            used to that fact.

                            2nd P.S. I found when doing transmitter receiver experiments that more stable
                            and consistent results can be got with lower frequencies, in my opinion
                            because it is much easier to match resonance of transmitter and receiver
                            because a small change on a 50 kHz coil produces a much smaller change
                            than a small adjustment on a 5 mHz coil It's not easy to tune a coil
                            to say 5 449 200 Hz.
                            it's much easier to tune a coil to 449 200 Hz. Changes on approaching have a
                            lesser effect as well. In my opinion that is.

                            ..

                            ..

                            Hi Farmhand!

                            the frequency is 16 hz only. scalar work best at multiples of 7.8 hz or 8 hz

                            scalars are everywhere you dont need battery to tap scalar energy. you only need to tune to multiples of 8 hz frequency only. you only need cap and coil to use power freely available by nature. making Tesla words true.

                            scalars and radio and joule thief

                            Joule Thief, Magnifying Transmitter, and ye olde tyme Crystal Radio. - YouTube


                            Full regards!

                            XILO
                            Last edited by xilo; 06-27-2012, 08:26 PM.

                            Comment


                            • Electrodes

                              Talking of electrodes, I took apart an old microwave the other day (my first microwave breaking session). I managed to get the magnetron apart, to get the magnets out, but I wanted to go further, so I smashed the ceramic isolators top & bottom to take a look inside (I hope it wasn't too radioactive ).
                              Anyway, in the top were 2 electrodes, going into the top ceramic isolator. I smashed the ceramic & got them out, they are incredibly hard, very hard to bend despite being only around 1-2mm in diameter (will measure them in the next few days).
                              Anyone know what they are made of???
                              It also looked like there was some seriously pure copper inside there, but only a very small amount, & not easy to get to, so I dumped the rest.

                              My current electrodes are just some mild steel M8 threaded stud. I filed one flat & the other pointed (conical) to simulate the anode & cathode of a diode. I believe this is a good way to do things???

                              Now I'm on the look out for more microwaves, as I need the capacitors badly!
                              I got my new L/C meter a few days ago, so now I know what capacitance will be needed to tune my coils to resonance. I'm thinking about 35KHz, but it will all depend on what HV caps I can eventually get.

                              Hoping to catch up with a few of you soon, you're all giving me much inspiration, keep up the good work!

                              Comment


                              • mot magnetron

                                Originally posted by nutgone View Post
                                Talking of electrodes, I took apart an old microwave the other day (my first microwave breaking session). I managed to get the magnetron apart, to get the magnets out, but I wanted to go further, so I smashed the ceramic isolators top & bottom to take a look inside (I hope it wasn't too radioactive ).
                                Anyway, in the top were 2 electrodes, going into the top ceramic isolator. I smashed the ceramic & got them out, they are incredibly hard, very hard to bend despite being only around 1-2mm in diameter (will measure them in the next few days).
                                Anyone know what they are made of???
                                It also looked like there was some seriously pure copper inside there, but only a very small amount, & not easy to get to, so I dumped the rest.

                                My current electrodes are just some mild steel M8 threaded stud. I filed one flat & the other pointed (conical) to simulate the anode & cathode of a diode. I believe this is a good way to do things???

                                Now I'm on the look out for more microwaves, as I need the capacitors badly!
                                I got my new L/C meter a few days ago, so now I know what capacitance will be needed to tune my coils to resonance. I'm thinking about 35KHz, but it will all depend on what HV caps I can eventually get.

                                Hoping to catch up with a few of you soon, you're all giving me much inspiration, keep up the good work!
                                Danger re magnetrons: Be very careful taking magnetrons apart. Some of them have extremely dangerous chemicals inside. I hope yours is the good type.

                                Comment

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