Originally posted by mr.clean
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The only thing I can think of without seeing your exact circuit diagram that might account for the extra power is if there are actually fairly large current spikes coming off the battery. If you do another video, if you can show the scope waveform across a 1 ohm resistor right at the positive or negative battery terminal, that might help clarify that. You could also try putting one of your analog ammeters (if you have one that reads lower current in the mA range) in the positive or negative battery line to compare current readings with the scope and with the DMM. The DMM may not be reading very accurately if you have high frequency current pulses coming off the battery. If everything still all checks out with these tests, then you may have something there.
I have come across some odd results in some of my experiments, but when I analyze closer I usually find something I missed or misinterpreted or mismeasured, etc. that explains it. That's why I am always hesistant to jump to any conclusions without doing lots of double checking and also trying alternate ways to confirm the measurements where possible. You can check your scope by measuring against some known voltages such as your battery terminals and the AC line voltage etc. to make sure it is measuring right, and also double check your other meters that way as well. Also you can confirm the resistance of any resistors you are measuring voltage across by measuing their resistance on an ohmmeter.
If your scope across a 1 ohm resistor in series right at one of the battery terminals along with confirmation from at least one other meter confirms the input current, then that will be really interesting. I would have to see exact details of your circuit to see what else might be going on, but it sounded like from your description in the video that your setup is pretty straightforward. I will be interested to see what the scope waveform for the batttery input current shows.
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