Reactive Power Generator (RPG) Replication Project

[Donald Haas]

Hi All, great to see some builders posting,

I did a 4.5hr run yesterday and the bnks were both 61.6V at the start. At the end they were 61.6 and 61.5. Relatively low Amp input and gen load. My rig is saying "don't press it with amp draw and tune for max RPM." I'm on an 8 hr run now. we'll report.

The 8 hr run ended with both banks at 61.3V after standing over night. Started at 61.6 and 61.5 1.45Amp draw plus about 8W from Gen. finished charging 12.V, 35Ah batt and started another. OU when including the gen output? Got to get more into the charge bank.

bro d

PS I've run the rig for at least 18hrs with the batts starting at 63.? and they are obviously holding pretty well.
My next change to the rig will be to parallel coils in pairs and run with 8 fets instead of 16 and see how that goes.
I'm looking into 52A, 1200v , 4 pin through hole sicfets. They require a SM driver so al lot for me to learn.

IMZ120R045M1XKSA1

[Aaron]

trying to upload by attachments this is the first unit I built but not the start of it. it was too big

You can upload it to YouTube and simply put the link here - it will auto embed the video.

[tarak]

"But, repulsion, magnet gets to the air core, switch on, repel magnet - the magnet cuts the windings on the coil so you get some back emf loss that you will NEVER get back."
but you can, I do. repulsion is the best way, also do not alternate the magnets polarity. My coils are air core, the drive coils are also generating coils, plus there are other generating coils.
I use the 120v dc nominal voltage. the difference of 3d printed rotors other than solid materials, is you also get dynamic power as well. Also do not connect in a 'three phase manor', there are many things that people copy and can be the wrong way.

[Donald Haas]

Joster,
This is the driver brd that I'm using.
2ND DRIVER BRD.pdf
bro d

[Aaron]

"But, repulsion, magnet gets to the air core, switch on, repel magnet - the magnet cuts the windings on the coil so you get some back emf loss that you will NEVER get back."
but you can, I do. repulsion is the best way, also do not alternate the magnets polarity. My coils are air core, the drive coils are also generating coils, plus there are other generating coils.
I use the 120v dc nominal voltage. the difference of 3d printed rotors other than solid materials, is you also get dynamic power as well. Also do not connect in a 'three phase manor', there are many things that people copy and can be the wrong way.

Please start your own thread because these are replication attempts for Mike's RPG and you are doing something different. Thanks.

[tarak]

ok I was just interested in your project to see how it compares with mine

[Mario]

Hi Aaron and all,

it's been a while since all my SG and mostly solid state SG related experiments. The RPG setup is quite interesting, I have watched the videos. Since the usable output power (gen), compared to the back and forth-swapping input energy, is quite low I wonder what it would look like replacing the motor with an open core Transformer, where you'd get like 50% of the energy on the secondary during the On time, and 50% or better from primary flyback directed to the second battery bank.
This RPG setup woke some questions though... :

- Didn't John always say don't use an inductive collapse charge battery on the front? Yet it seems to work, but only with short swaps? This point has always been confusing.

- For the short swaps to work, do the batts have to be in an almost discharged state (12V)?

- Car batts have lower impedance ok, what is your take on AGM batts? They have low impedance as well.

- When doing repeated complete cycles with inductive SG spike charging, the result I've seen is always that after a few cycles the batts yes charge faster, but also sustain a load (inverter or lamps) for a shorter time, like they shrink in capacity. Maybe it's this state that is the best for short batt swapping setups? When I then would start cycling them with cap pulsers again, they would go back to a normal battery behaviour, meaning charge / discharge times.

- Your 170000 uF into 7Ah gel cell setup, did you also try back-popping the primary? Did it sustain itself?

regards,
Mario

[Aaron]

ok I was just interested in your project to see how it compares with mine

That's great! I'd like to see it, but I think it deserves it's own thread so you can post all the details, pics, schematics and other info so people can understand what you have. I just want to keep this particular thread very specific to Mike's build.

[Joster]

Hi All, great to see some builders posting,

I did a 4.5hr run yesterday and the bnks were both 61.6V at the start. At the end they were 61.6 and 61.5. Relatively low Amp input and gen load. My rig is saying "don't press it with amp draw and tune for max RPM." I'm on an 8 hr run now. we'll report.

The 8 hr run ended with both banks at 61.3V after standing over night. Started at 61.6 and 61.5 1.45Amp draw plus about 8W from Gen. finished charging 12.V, 35Ah batt and started another. OU when including the gen output? Got to get more into the charge bank.

bro d

PS I've run the rig for at least 18hrs with the batts starting at 63.? and they are obviously holding pretty well.
My next change to the rig will be to parallel coils in pairs and run with 8 fets instead of 16 and see how that goes.
I'm looking into 52A, 1200v , 4 pin through hole sicfets. They require a SM driver so al lot for me to learn.

IMZ120R045M1XKSA1

What do you mean SM driver?

[Donald Haas]

SM means surface mount.

[Energy_Hack]

Don,

You may consider (before chaning configuration) to continue to run your motor batteries down to 10.5v and record how much time they ran and what power was pulled from the batteries over that same time.

ie. Pulling 1.5A x 100 hours = 150Ah / 2 = 75Ah from each bank

Add in the generator load as well and you get the total amount of energy delivered from the batteries, which is hopefully greater than nameplate (because of the recycling power and maybe some other unconventional phenomenon)

If it's not greater than there is no magic happening...

But according to others they are getting several times the name plate out of the batts before they die off to 10.5v

I was inspired by this string and put my own motor back together and am running it for a few days continuous to see if it will put out more than 100Ah, which is the name plate on my batteries.

EH

[Donald Haas]

EH,
Starting with JB, many have said don't take car batts below 12V as it will damage them. Aaron has said recently to fully charge the car batt and use equipment that I have West Mountain CBA-4.
I can record the amp draw at a certain rate and see exactly what I have down to 12v. Apparently it's fine to take deep cycle batts down to 10.5.
bro d

[Energy_Hack]

Bro D,

I understand. In that case, you could measure what goes in them (starting at 12v) and then measure what you get out going back down to 12v.

I have Deep Cycle Marine batteries and plan to take them down to 10.5v to see if they deliver 100Ah as their name plate states or more because of the fly back recharging.

They are approaching 50Ah (100Ah/2) now and voltage is around 11.95v on the high recharge side and around 11.80v on the low discharge end.

The fly back measures about 20% on a meter so in theory they should deliver 120Ah each and if there is "extra" it should exceed 120Ah.

I should have results by Thursday.

EH

[Aaron]

Bro D,

I understand. In that case, you could measure what goes in them (starting at 12v) and then measure what you get out going back down to 12v.

I have Deep Cycle Marine batteries and plan to take them down to 10.5v to see if they deliver 100Ah as their name plate states or more because of the fly back recharging.

They are approaching 50Ah (100Ah/2) now and voltage is around 11.95v on the high recharge side and around 11.80v on the low discharge end.

The fly back measures about 20% on a meter so in theory they should deliver 120Ah each and if there is "extra" it should exceed 120Ah.

I should have results by Thursday.

EH

As long as your draw is 100ah/20 hours = 5 amps, you should get the full 100 amp hours out of it. If you're drawing less than 5 amps, should be at minimum 100amp hour and possibly more.

If the draw is more than 5 amps, then your capacity goes down and is no longer 100ah. 10 hour rating is 90% so 90ah/10 is 9 amps for 10 hours or 5 hour rating is about 80% or 80ah/5 hours = 16 amps for 5 hours. I know this is redundant as I already mentioned it but these are the calculations for Ah ratings and could be useful to those that are still new to this.

Marine batteries are a bit problematic because they're a compromise trying to be both starter batteries and deep cycles at the same time. But if that is what you have... I have never measured the Ah draw on marine batteries based on the 20 hour discharge rating to see if they actually provide that.

Looking forward to your results!

[jettis]

Hey fellas I don’t know how many of you have the Bedini pulse chargers, but if you do… this is what I do to condition my wet cell starter batteries.

1) I discharge them with a constant current load, C20 to C5 discharge rate
2) Recharge the battery with your pulse charger at least to 15.3 to 16 volts, after this voltage is reached leave the charger on for an hour or two to ensure battery is fully charged.
3) Repeat steps 1 & 2 three to five times
4) Each cycle will enhance battery capacity, so that your resting voltage will be 13.25volts for a 12 volt battery when finished.

For starter batteries I often use a carbon pile tester, when discharging my starter batteries for a 850cca I load the battery down to 450 amps for 15 seconds, keeping the voltage above 10 volts during the load test. I do this three times and then recharge the battery with my Bedini pulse charger. This is the standard automotive battery load test to determine the battery capacity and health.

It is a faster way to condition batteries.

Benefits:
Capacity will increase (more amp hours) 110% plus capacity.
Charge times will decrease 15-20 percent.
Battery will continue to charge itself for a time, when conditioned and the charger is removed. This will aid when cycling back and forth.
After fully charging the battery it will take a longer time to arrive at resting voltage.



Dave Wing