Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Joulethief SEC exciter and variants

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Farrah Day
    replied
    Hi JD or Slayer

    I'm using the simple Slayer Exciter cct from post #681.

    A few questions, if one of you would be so kind to answer.

    After having success with smaller coils for basic electrolysis tests, I'm now winding a full size L1, as I could have fried eggs on the transistor with my existing coil set up. I take it that I have a tuning issue as I simply used a smaller (360uH) tower coil I had at hand.

    So, I'm curious about the tuning aspect. Slayer did you get to the coil winding configuration just by trial and error or is there a calculated reason for the coil inductances?

    If I assume that the Slayer Exciter circuit is simply relying on the coils being closely tuned, is there anyway of adding components to tune mismatched coils? If so what and where would these components go?

    Thanks

    Incidentally, I've spent half the day winding my new L1 on a 16" length of 3" dia downpipe and I'm still only half done... bloody tedious work with 34SWG isn't it!

    Leave a comment:


  • rave154
    replied
    Hi folks,

    using what i guess could be called the "standard slayer exciter", i wound a 10 turn pancake around my L1 using 20SWG magnet wire. 12V supply, 2N3055 transistor, 48K resistor to base etc.

    neon & Flouro lights at about 3-4 inches...BUT....

    on my L1, i left my original L2, which is 10 turns again of 20SWG but wrapped directly around L1 in the normal fashion ( Ie, NOT pancake )...it is now wrapped around near the top of L1.

    when i hold the flouro to L1 in a place away from my original L2(ie, bottom or middle )...it lights as usual...when i lift it up near my original L2, it still lights but i can see dark and light bands in the tube "in line" with the original L2. the part of the tube that is not in line with the original L2..is still lit..but not dark & light bands

    tried to take pics, vid, but very hard.... as i move the tube around the bands go from stationary to moving in a fast'ish ripple along the tube.
    Last edited by rave154; 07-05-2010, 09:27 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • TanTric
    replied
    hmmm, very insteresting find...

    maybe is not the gas being exited, but the reed switch turning on and off very fast maybe because off a big magnetic pulsed energy?

    just my tought! cool stuff kazm!!

    Originally posted by kazm View Post
    hey all made a video of an interesting behaviour i stumbled on today, it shows the spark gap of a reed switch being ignited wirelessly by a Slayer SEC Exciter circuit. The spark ignites when one end of the reed switch is close to the L1 output tray and the other end is connected to a virtual ground pan.

    YouTube - Wireless Reed Switch Spark Gap

    No AV plugs in use here, I suppose the metal contacts (and possibly the nitrogen inside of it) are being excited?

    cheers,
    kazm

    Leave a comment:


  • jonnydavro
    replied
    @TheCell
    Originally posted by TheCell View Post
    The square tube is looking great...Do you have a second one to try sending and receiving between them? Which circuit did you use for this? That would be the one we would want to try and replicate for the top and bottom of our cell,...only 8" apart....so your 2 meter capability would be the nice overkill needed for a preliminary test.
    Hi Bob.With this new rectangle coil i now have a pair and they can be tuned to the same frequency as the exciter and each other and this allows me to move energy from one place to another.This is how i light the neon at 2.1m.If i had more rectangle coils it would be further.Individually they will light a neon a 1.5m and fluorecents at 1m.I have a vid of this a page or two back.
    The circuit i am using is Slayers and this is the most powerful exciter i have worked with.The basic circuit can be found on page 7 but you would be better asking Slayer what the latest circuit is as i am still using the basic one he posted way back and it has moved on a lot since then.Jonny
    @Kazm.Nice findCan the sparking reed switch be used to complete a circuit?Jonny
    @Farrah Day.Hi Farrah.I am in the UK and i think of me every time i see Bobby too
    Thanks for the wire supplier info and all those useful links.The 250g rolls i use are expensive and not quite big enough to make a killer Slayer L1 so i will be placing an order for a spool of 26swg asap,Also the twisted pair wire looks interesting for a bifilar L1.Many thanks.Jonny

    Leave a comment:


  • Farrah Day
    replied
    Originally posted by rave154 View Post
    Farrah,

    thanks for the supplier of wire, will come in handy.

    of the choices in their "magnet wire" section...which coating do you use?
    In order to keep costs down I go for the cheapest polyester enamelled copper wire rather than the more expensive solderable stuff. It doesn't take much to scrape the enamel off for soldering or making electrical connections and it's never let me down.

    I buy the 0.75mm (approx 21 SWG) and the 0.315mm (30 SWG) as I find these two sizes suit most of my needs. Anything thicker I can get from ome old heavy duty transformers I have knocking about.

    Leave a comment:


  • rave154
    replied
    Farrah,

    thanks for the supplier of wire, will come in handy.

    of the choices in their "magnet wire" section...which coating do you use?

    Leave a comment:


  • Farrah Day
    replied
    Originally posted by kazm View Post
    hey all made a video of an interesting behaviour i stumbled on today, it shows the spark gap of a reed switch being ignited wirelessly by a Slayer SEC Exciter circuit. The spark ignites when one end of the reed switch is close to the L1 output tray and the other end is connected to a virtual ground pan.

    YouTube - Wireless Reed Switch Spark Gap

    No AV plugs in use here, I suppose the metal contacts (and possibly the nitrogen inside of it) are being excited?

    cheers,
    kazm
    You see that's interesting isn't it, as surely to get this affect there must be an enormous difference of potential on either end of the reed switch. Which tends to indicate that there is a significant gradient of potential drop-off between the metal cup and the surrounding air. That said, maybe I'm overlooking something... hmmm.

    Is there any position you can hold it within the cup whereby the potential difference is not enough to see the affect?

    Leave a comment:


  • Farrah Day
    replied
    Hi JD

    I take it you're in the UK.

    Thought you might be interested in the wire supplier that I use for my projects. Makes much better sense than buying relatively expensive 250g reels from Maplins time and time again. I tend to buy by the kilo.

    wires.co.uk - specialist in craft wire, knitted craft wire, silver wire, enamelled copper, resistance wires, stainless steel, plated wires and many more!

    Edit: a couple of links to calculating the incuctance of coils in case you don'y have an LCR bridge.

    Air Core Inductor Coil Inductance Calculator

    Inductance Calculator

    RF Inductance Calculator - HAMwaves.com

    You might find the second link interesting JD, as they give options for the coil former shape.

    Incidentally, a picture of the comedian 'Bobby Davro' always comes to mind when I think of you!

    All the best
    Last edited by Farrah Day; 07-05-2010, 10:55 AM. Reason: Additional info

    Leave a comment:


  • kazm
    replied
    hey all made a video of an interesting behaviour i stumbled on today, it shows the spark gap of a reed switch being ignited wirelessly by a Slayer SEC Exciter circuit. The spark ignites when one end of the reed switch is close to the L1 output tray and the other end is connected to a virtual ground pan.

    YouTube - Wireless Reed Switch Spark Gap

    No AV plugs in use here, I suppose the metal contacts (and possibly the nitrogen inside of it) are being excited?

    cheers,
    kazm

    Leave a comment:


  • TheCell
    replied
    Lower ma forJD's circuit

    This youtube shows the 11 ma used to light wirelessly the LED string...next step to boost the power up and integrate into the cell...

    YouTube - Super SEC By JD

    Thanks Farrah Day for the update..that's what I thought.

    " JD interesting weekend messing about with this and can light a neon at over 2 meters and i will try and film that later this week but tonight i did a quick experiment with a 7 watt incandescent light bulb and i what i found interesting was the light bulb was brighter when lit wirelessly from the rectangle coil than from the direct output from L1"

    JD,

    The square tube is looking great...Do you have a second one to try sending and receiving between them? Which circuit did you use for this? That would be the one we would want to try and replicate for the top and bottom of our cell,...only 8" apart....so your 2 meter capability would be the nice overkill needed for a preliminary test.

    Thanks for the great videos...

    Leave a comment:


  • jonnydavro
    replied
    HiLast week i did what Juju suggested and wound another rectangle coil and this new one seems to be on the same frequency as the pop bottle Slayer L1 coil so not much tuning is needed and there is a very high energy transfer between them, anyway i have had a very interesting weekend messing about with this and can light a neon at over 2 meters and i will try and film that later this week but tonight i did a quick experiment with a 7 watt incandescent light bulb and i what i found interesting was the light bulb was brighter when lit wirelessly from the rectangle coil than from the direct output from L1
    Here is the vid.Jonny
    YouTube - Slayer exciter and wireless incandescent bulb

    Leave a comment:


  • Farrah Day
    replied
    Originally posted by TheCell View Post
    Was that with Distilled water or with electrolyte, my guess is distilled, but I never want to ASSUME...
    Just plain old tap water, Bob.

    I did not get chance to experiment with electrolytes as my transistors were smoking! The thing is an electrolyte reduces overall efficiency anyway, so the purer the water the better... as long as it works.

    I also need to try it with de-ionised water. Which I'll be doing when I've built a coil more on par with JD or Slayers.

    Leave a comment:


  • TheCell
    replied
    Originally posted by Farrah Day View Post
    Additional Electrolysis Info:


    The set up worked, but the transistor didn't half get hot. I tried various transistors, BC184, 2N2222A, 2N3053 and various others (unmarked) that I had knocking about. Most worked, but obviously my set up is drawing too much current through the transistors.
    Was that with Distilled water or with electrolyte, my guess is distilled, but I never want to ASSUME...

    Leave a comment:


  • Farrah Day
    replied
    Originally posted by TheCell View Post
    Sorry for the earlier questions...the rest of your post didn't show up until after...Thanks.
    What questions Bob??

    To-date I've been playing with what I have at hand. I've been somewhat haphazard and not recording any specifics as I've just been trying to get a feel for what is happening.

    But I want to start documenting things properly whilst being more versatile in my experimentation, so I intend to put together a test jig to make life easier for taking measurements.

    I'm just waiting on some new circuit breadboard and enamelled wire at the moment.

    Leave a comment:


  • TheCell
    replied
    Sorry for the earlier questions...the rest of your post didn't show up until after...Thanks.

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X