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Joulethief SEC exciter and variants

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  • woopy
    replied
    Hi Jim

    The problem with arcing in the winding is that you never know when it happens. But once it happens it is non reversible, and will destroy surely your big windind work and your device will stop to work
    . Believe my experience. And if you are lucky enough perhaps you will detect where the arcing is comming from and perhaps you can repare it. But be sure that if you have once got the arcing you will suffer an other one very soon.

    So my advice is the following

    First wind the first layer as tightly as you can (take the time and patience for the first winding, than at the end of what your half toroid accept, leave perhaps 2 or 3 mm space, and stop the windind with a gluing mean. Than take a masking painting paper tape and wrap it arround the first layer. You will see where it seems to be usefull to add some small pieces of tape to really well insulate the layers, (boring but necessary )
    Than wind back se second layer identically as the first one but you will probably get less windind (be sure to not overlap the winding by going to fast (i know it is really boring ) and at the end of the second layer you stop it and fix it with the previous gluing mean ant you insulate as previously described,

    and so on

    My copper wire is probably very near of your's 0.3 mm so about 28 AWG and i can get very srong power from this very small wire section.

    I tried 0.4 mm , 0.5 mm , insulated stranded wire etc... every thing work better or less.

    So good experiment and good luck

    Laurent

    Leave a comment:


  • slayer007
    replied
    Originally posted by jehdds View Post
    Likewise!
    Hey do you have a schematic? I noticed some diodes etc as you panned across the set up. Any suggestions are welcomed wholeheartedly!
    Very Best Regards,
    Jim
    Sorry Jehdds I didn't notice your post.
    Yes I showed the circuit in the video just before this one.
    The video was JT type setup that I showed the circuit in.

    After this is started you can remove the 1M resistor.
    Or it can be started with out the resistor by tapping the base antenna to the positive side of the battery.

    Leave a comment:


  • slayer007
    replied
    Originally posted by SkyWatcher View Post
    Hi folks, Hi slayer, i can't seem to get that circuit you posted anywhere near as bright as what your showing with that single led, i can get a regular white led to barely light up using 1.2v nimh AA cell and 2n4403 pnp transistor and 24 gauge bifilar on e-core and have tried toroid.
    Any tips appreciated.
    peace love light
    tyson
    Hello SkyWatcher.

    The transistor I was using in the video is a 2n2222.The small bifilar toroid had around 20 turns of 28awg wire.

    You may need more mass on the base of the transistor.Or you could try tapping the antenna to the positive side of the battery for a split second.
    You way also want to try a bigger load.When using a bigger load I didn't need to use the antenna.

    Leave a comment:


  • broli
    replied
    Originally posted by boguslaw View Post
    tssss I know what is preventing them ...... electrolytic capacitor explosion
    That would be a good first test I would say, try it with a cheap cap covered with a box, close the loop and let it explode if there's a "run away" effect, that would be telling something .

    Leave a comment:


  • boguslaw
    replied
    Originally posted by broli View Post
    To repeat what I posted on jim's video. This might be stating the obvious but what has prevented people to hook up an efficient rectifier to the output and capacitor that can handle the voltage to either send back a portion of the power or to perform a simple DC measurement with a known load. We're looking for overunity at the end of the day are we not .
    tssss I know what is preventing them ...... electrolytic capacitor explosion

    Leave a comment:


  • broli
    replied
    To repeat what I posted on jim's video. This might be stating the obvious but what has prevented people to hook up an efficient rectifier to the output and capacitor that can handle the voltage to either send back a portion of the power or to perform a simple DC measurement with a known load. We're looking for overunity at the end of the day are we not .

    Leave a comment:


  • jimboot
    replied
    Originally posted by jehdds View Post
    Here is a Replication of the Sergdo Toroid project.
    It is not optimally tuned yet, but will light a 120V 2W LED light at 1V and 100mA very well and initiates light at .02amp and .3V
    Interesting things toroids are to be sure.
    Sergdo Toroid - YouTube
    Very Best Regards,
    Jim
    Great vid. Nice work jimbo! I'm finding 2 tip41 are optimal. In my setup the more trannies the higher the current draw.

    Leave a comment:


  • SkyWatcher
    replied
    Hi folks, Hi slayer, i can't seem to get that circuit you posted anywhere near as bright as what your showing with that single led, i can get a regular white led to barely light up using 1.2v nimh AA cell and 2n4403 pnp transistor and 24 gauge bifilar on e-core and have tried toroid.
    Any tips appreciated.
    peace love light
    tyson

    Leave a comment:


  • jehdds
    replied
    Originally posted by woopy View Post
    Hi Jim and Slayer

    thank's for sharing those remarquable results

    Bravo

    to Jim,

    I recommend you to insulate each layers of your winding to avoid arcing between the layers and destroy your enormous 1000 x 2 with 28 gauge wire winding,

    So i would suggest to stay at low voltage with this set up and use it only for low power led Lighting , and perhaps rewind a second one (i know the work )with insulation (painting paper masking tape ) between each layers to go up with the voltage and power.

    I did it and now (thank's Gyula ) i have no more problem with arcing and i can melt and remelt without any worry of arcing the winding. I can go up to 15 volts and 1.5 amps easily.

    Just my 2 cents

    And just for info what is your gigantic torroid , Metglas or standard torroid ?.

    Thank's and good luck

    Laurent
    Dear Laurent,
    Great idea to prevent arcing!
    Rats that I neglected to do so
    Hey what gauge would you advise for the longer winds to stand up to higher currents?
    Would you be able to post your welding schematic?
    What is the largest LED you were able to drive?
    I am amazed that I can get the 120v 69mA LED to strike with a single .5v 70mA RadioShack solar cell. I showed my wife and kids the set up using a hearing aid battery and they were in disbelief. Thank You so much for sharing your work and giving the impetus to make one.
    My Toroid is Ferrite. Do you have any opinion on architecture of where the coils are on the toroid? Position and Spacing maybe a factor.
    Do you agree?
    Very Best Regards,
    Jim

    Leave a comment:


  • woopy
    replied
    Hi Jim and Slayer

    thank's for sharing those remarquable results

    Bravo

    to Jim,

    I recommend you to insulate each layers of your winding to avoid arcing between the layers and destroy your enormous 1000 x 2 with 28 gauge wire winding,

    So i would suggest to stay at low voltage with this set up and use it only for low power led Lighting , and perhaps rewind a second one (i know the work )with insulation (painting paper masking tape ) between each layers to go up with the voltage and power.

    I did it and now (thank's Gyula ) i have no more problem with arcing and i can melt and remelt without any worry of arcing the winding. I can go up to 15 volts and 1.5 amps easily.

    Just my 2 cents

    And just for info what is your gigantic torroid , Metglas or standard torroid ?.

    Thank's and good luck

    Laurent

    Leave a comment:


  • jehdds
    replied
    Originally posted by slayer007 View Post
    Great video Jehdds.

    But you may get better results if you remove the electronics from the led light.

    In this video I just wanted to show that using a larger load you no longer need the antenna.And once this is started you can remove the base resistor.

    JT Exciter 2 - YouTube
    Likewise!
    Hey do you have a schematic? I noticed some diodes etc as you panned across the set up. Any suggestions are welcomed wholeheartedly!
    Very Best Regards,
    Jim

    Leave a comment:


  • slayer007
    replied
    Great video Jehdds.

    But you may get better results if you remove the electronics from the led light.

    In this video I just wanted to show that using a larger load you no longer need the antenna.And once this is started you can remove the base resistor.

    JT Exciter 2 - YouTube

    Leave a comment:


  • jehdds
    replied
    Here is a Replication of the Sergdo Toroid project.
    It is not optimally tuned yet, but will light a 120V 2W LED light at 1V and 100mA very well and initiates light at .02amp and .3V
    Interesting things toroids are to be sure.
    Sergdo Toroid - YouTube
    Very Best Regards,
    Jim

    Leave a comment:


  • slayer007
    replied
    This is a JT type setup that allso acts like an exciter.
    If using a coil off the base or the collector of the transistor it has a very strong field.

    JT Type Setup - YouTube

    Leave a comment:


  • jimboot
    replied
    Hey I have a couple of YouTube channels. Experimentation is at jimboot2 and my day job company,is at jimboot. Haven't posted the latest work yet

    Leave a comment:

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