Joulethief SEC exciter and variants

[Neight]

@woopy
Looking at your picture - I'm sure that many roadside deer have seen a similar image bearing down on them late at night !

Found a CRT ferrite today in my unsightly pile of old monitors in our backyard.
I'm going to wind it with 30 gauge wire (all i've got). Is that a large enough gauge to use at 12V ?
Hmmm, though, on the toroid itself at the moment is that multistrand stuff. I wonder if it can be used simply 'as is', untouched, and then just add the 2x 20 turns coils on top.

Those CRT monitors are a ferrite goldmine!
all of the toroids I have and use have come out of CRT monitors and PC power supplies.

I have ran 12V through 30ga. wire, and depending on how many turns you have, it will get hot, but it seems to handle the load OK. (I should note that on my toroid, the 30ga. was for the secondary windings, I had 28ga. as the primary.)

Might be interesting to try some multi-strand wire in one of these circuits and see what it does...

perhaps if you separate some of the strands at the ends, and connect a few in series, you wouldn't need to wind more turns on at all

I have several inductors from various circuit boards that still have the stranded wire on them, might try it myself, and see what happens.

[Slider2732]

@woopy
Looking at your picture - I'm sure that many roadside deer have seen a similar image bearing down on them late at night !

Found a CRT ferrite today in my unsightly pile of old monitors in our backyard.
I'm going to wind it with 30 gauge wire (all i've got). Is that a large enough gauge to use at 12V ?
Hmmm, though, on the toroid itself at the moment is that multistrand stuff. I wonder if it can be used simply 'as is', untouched, and then just add the 2x 20 turns coils on top.

[boguslaw]

Don Smith is smiling at you woopy ! Bravo.You have now AC and DC systems checked, time to storage system

[jimboot]

Hi Slider

At OU, a contributor named Hitman seems to have tried and have succes with winding a TV (CRT) yoke.
The advantageof this yokes is that they are in 2 parts, so very easy to wind especially if you intend to have hundreds of turns. The minus point is that the jonction is not a perfect conductor and perhaps they could have some lost and surely a lot of dizzzzling .
But at this stage of research, we have to point out what is important and for what purpose.

For instance i made a comparison with 2 same LED 220 volt rated 3 watts for a light of 35 watt Philips lamp.

one is connected to the grid (the right lamp on the pix ) and the other connected to the torroid and than i made photos, because it is very difficult to be precise with so much light right in the eyes.
So with my new winding (200 turns) ,i get the same light intensity at arround 2 watts or slightly less input.
With my first 500 turns winding ,i used much less wattage (seemly as per my first video )to get the same light intensity. But i could only use it at low voltage perhaps max 4 - 5 volts to avoid arcing in the winding but enough to light LED very brightly.

OK hope this hel

Laurent

winding a yoke now with. Many more turns. Great vid as always mate. Bonsoir!

[woopy]

Hi Slider

At OU, a contributor named Hitman seems to have tried and have succes with winding a TV (CRT) yoke.
The advantageof this yokes is that they are in 2 parts, so very easy to wind especially if you intend to have hundreds of turns. The minus point is that the jonction is not a perfect conductor and perhaps they could have some lost and surely a lot of dizzzzling .
But at this stage of research, we have to point out what is important and for what purpose.

For instance i made a comparison with 2 same LED 220 volt rated 3 watts for a light of 35 watt Philips lamp.

one is connected to the grid (the right lamp on the pix ) and the other connected to the torroid and than i made photos, because it is very difficult to be precise with so much light right in the eyes.
So with my new winding (200 turns) ,i get the same light intensity at arround 2 watts or slightly less input.
With my first 500 turns winding ,i used much less wattage (seemly as per my first video )to get the same light intensity. But i could only use it at low voltage perhaps max 4 - 5 volts to avoid arcing in the winding but enough to light LED very brightly.

OK hope this helps

Laurent

[Slider2732]

The necks of old CRT computer monitors have huge ones
That's what leapt to me when reading through this fascinating development of a circuit.
The same half toroids were used in some experiments on the forum recently...so people may already have them handy.
No idea if they are too big or would lower the frequency or something. I intend to find out !

Cool vid Woopy, enjoyed your usual great humour too

[Bob Smith]

Any suggestions on where to find a ferrite/salvage a toroid this size? I've got powdered iron ones; not sure where to find ferrite, other than ebay. Are there any appliances that usually use ferrite?
Any help appreciated.
bob

[woopy]

Bravo Xee2

and here is one of the potential result

good luck at all

Laurent

Amazing electrical writing with Sergdo toroid 1.wmv - YouTube

[xee2]

Diagram for latest woopy circuit. Looks like this would be easier to duplicate.

[xee2]

I hope you don't mind but edited your drawing to conform with woopy's comments. I hope I didn't miss out on anything.

Thanks. Looks correct to me.

[woopy]

Thank's Broli

now the winding direction is OK.

This circuit works very well with the 500 turns at 0.4 mm enameled copper wire. And in this case you need the diode bank to get steel melting. And also as i sayd, they may be destructive arcing in the secondary also at 10 volts.

I have just rewound the secondary with a plastic insulated stranded copper wire ( it is written 0.14 mm2 on the pack). Due to the thickness of the insulation i could wind only 2 x 200 turns on my torroid.
The primary is always 2 x 20 turns 0.4 enameled copper wire.

the frequency of secondary more than double at arround 7 to 8 khz depending of the voltage.

So this time i can melt thin steel wire (0.3 mm diameter ) at only 3 watts input and WITOUT THE DIODE bank And i can create a 5mm plasma arc easily with a tremendous and high resonant dizzzzling.

The diode bank was no increase in the steel melting, i tried to parrallel 12 1n5408 on both side and no improvement than i tried 12 serie on both side nothing more than i tried a serie of 8 ultrafast diode and nada, finally i tried 1 highvoltage diode from MO and nada. No difference with or without diodes in this case.

I played with a second resistor 680 ohm in serie with the first one , because the 5 watt 680 ohm get hot at higher voltage than 8 volt.

I pushed the voltage up to 20 volts and no arcing so far

I will perhaps try other transistor to see the difference

So for the winding, i wonder if we would avoid the arcing by winding no more than 200 or 300 turns with 0.5 mm enameled copper wire ? What do you think ?

OK hope this helps

good luck at all

Laurent

[broli]

I hope you don't mind but edited your drawing to conform with woopy's comments. I hope I didn't miss out on anything.

[jimboot]

@laurent I replicated the diode setup but I could not melt steel. My coil squealed.i then hooked up a bc 240v 25w incandescent lamp and it dimly lit but there was so much heat coming off my transistors I had to shut it off.

Learning - 20 turns on the secondary is not a big enough pickup is not enough to melt steel. More heat equals lower efficiency.

[woopy]

Hi Xee2

thank's for the beautifull shematic

Just some corrections

The winding seems to be of atmost importance

so on the right winding (joule thief part) the down red output must go to the down blue output. On your design the red down output goes to the upper blue output( See at Sergdo picture ).

Than the resistor to base. I used a 1k 0.5 watt resistor but it become really hot, so i changed with a 5 watt 680 ohm that i have, and it is much better. I would propose to install a 1k variable resistor of 3 or more watt.

Finally i use 6 diodes per side (not 3 ) and there are 1N5408 (rated 3 A each ) i have not tried the 1n4007 (rated 1 A)

Finally as sayd above i used 0.4 mm enameled copper wire for the 500 turns. But the insulation of enameled copper seems to be too weak to sustain the inside current/voltage, and they are arcing after some minutes and destroy the winding.
So i will rewind today the secondaries with a plastic insulated copper wire and i am almost sure that i will not have the space for 500 turns. I will keep you imformed.

The toroid i use is a ferrite 60 mm outer diameter covered with blue epoxy coating, i don't know the material inside the toroid. Sergdo seems to have also smaller toroid, And Jimboot use a smaller one and get results also.

Hope this helps

But for all replicators
look very closely to the winding direction at the picture posted by Sergdo (simply copy the picture exactly, without thinking of confusing clockwise and counterclockwise and get lost and scratch your head each time you manipulate your toroid, after some training it is easy you will see )

Good luck at all

Laurent

[xee2]

Updated woopy circuit diagram. I think this is correct.