Joulethief SEC exciter and variants

[shaan]

Hi Shaan and welcome .Please could you post the circuit diagram for your plasma spinner here so we can see how you made that great plasma and I am sure there are others,myself included who will want to try your circuit.Cheers.Jonny.

My pleasure.





shaan

[jonnydavro]

Hi Shaan and welcome .Please could you post the circuit diagram for your plasma spinner here so we can see how you made that great plasma and I am sure there are others,myself included who will want to try your circuit.Cheers.Jonny.

[shaan]

Hi Nick.

I have already tried that few months ago. The CFLs' brightness went halfway down instead. Probably because as the secondary is loaded at both ends there isn't enough feedback in the lower end of the secondary to maintain a healthy resonance, I guess.

That apart, if we have to physically connect one or both ends of the load to the device's output node then we are no longer in wireless electricity.

[Nick_Z]

If you connect both your two circuits secondary connections, one to each side of the Cfl heater wires or ends of the tubes, you'll get the bulbs to fully light all the way.

[shaan]

Efficiency

My experiments tell me that the best efficiency is achieved when,

1. Supply ground is earthed.
2. At least one terminal of the lamps are earthed.
3. Primary is slided over the secondary to find the sweet-spot.
4. No metal piece is near the tower.
5. The whole setup is at the centre of the room, i.e. away from walls.
6. A medium-voltage diode(1N4007) placed between the +ve supply and the primary.
7. Primary coil is of optimum shape, turns and diameter.

The CCS oscillator is fairly efficient, at 28V/2A it can light two long 40W tubes near full brightness(but the far end of the tubes must be earthed to get them lit the brightest).

Here are some photos of another setup(with the same long tower but different primary and oscillator) running at 9V/300mA lighting the 6W tube at near its full brightness. This one runs on the most basic circuit of the SEC exciter, comprising the popular BD139 transistor. Notice the primary is pancake type, as this gives the best result than any other shape, in this case. Also it is placed almost 1" above ground level, as this was the optimum place that caused a powerful field and also a cold transistor.









Interestingly, the pancake primary produces sub-optimal results in the CCS setup and makes the MOSFET overheat quickly(drawing more than 4A, even when the CCS current limit is 2A). More turns won't help reduce the current, it probably decreases the oscillating frequency, but keeps the current draw high. The solution is as you see in the last pic of my previous post. Primary rolled over the secondary in the same solenoid fashion.

shaan

[Nick_Z]

Shaan:
Your set up looks very nice. Now, what can it do, other than shoot out some sparks? Can you show some pictures of it lighting some bulbs, etz...

Below are a couple pics of one of my current dual circuits as mentioned previously.
One thing that I have noticed is that in order to light big Cfls brightly, one needs to have more than one circuit to really be able to obtain the same or higher brightness that is produced when the standard Clfs are running un-gutted, and on regular 110v grid power. This is because in their own normal circuitry, there is also a dual circuit set up inside their bases. This allows both of the bulbs twin wires (4 little heater wires) to all be receiving the input. NOT JUST ONE SIDE. BOTH sides of the Cfl bulbs need to receive the input, as they normally do, when they come new.
Anyways, this is what I'm working on now, in order to really light them up. I've gotten this circuit (below) to produce the same lumin brightness as when it was ungutted running on 14 watts or 110v grid power. But, now I'm running it off of a 12v, 500mA wall adapter, at a similar levels as when I had them lighting on 10v, 1.4 amps.
Nick_Z
Edit:
Ok, Shaan, I see your pics now, thanks. Looking good!

[shaan]

HEXFET CCS Exciter Driver

My babybeast exciter. Control circuit/oscillator is a HEXFET based Constant Current Source. Works like charm. Running from 28V/8A supply; max current limited to 2A by CCS design by virtue of the three 1R/1W resistors at FET's source leg to ground; the voltage around them is sensed by the small signal BJT there. It's sclable, more parallel resistors=more power; but also more heat. The large 1N5408 diodes were chosen after exploding a dozen of those puny 4007s; I think a pair of ultrafast diodes here will do better. The tower consists of ~1500 turns of hairthin wire, hand wound in just a little over four hours.

Enjoy the show:

YT link-> Plasma Propelled Wirewheel

Some Pics:













And here the CCS driving the bigger tower.













shaan

[Nick_Z]

And I believe that when using a multi-meter to read amps, that it can also affect the true readings, especially on a sensitive circuit.
Which is one the reasons that I only trust what a self running circuit can produce on its own power, after a kick-start only, if it's even necessary to start it from an external source. A start capacitor seams like the way to go. Looks like some guys are getting to where the battery can be disconnected, once started, with no loss in bulb brightness or output power.
However in order to make use of some of these circuits to actually help to light ones house, the small affect of the scopes or meters may not be that important.

[morpher44]

Dr. Steven E. Jones...

So today I did a "quick" replication of the Dr. Steven E. Jones
circuit. I used a great big honeycomb coil on a whipcream container
instead of the torroid.
The circuit works fine....
However, some things concern me in terms of Mr. Jones measurement
techniques.

I found that if you put scope probes from emitter to ground
and WATCH the waveform on the coil -- which you would want to do --
that these probes actually are providing POWER from the scope into
the circuit.
To prove this to myself, I connect a "Tate Ambient Power Module" circuit,
with a 100kohm load. Observing voltage allows me to calculate power
easily -- V^2 / R.
Ok, so now, turn OFF the Jones circuit... and turn off the SCOPE...
BOOM ... power is still flowing thru the darn thing ...
Yes its down in the nanoWatts ... but its there.
Now remove the scope probes completely ...
BOOM ... no power any longer.
Re-attach scope probes and fire up the circuit to take measurements
using Tate circuit method....
I get about 1/2 milliwatt.
Remove the scope probes ... and turn off scope ...
I get about 10 microwatts.

So ... it seems that oscilloscopes can provide POWER into your
circuit under test.

That DARN "Observer Effect"...!!

[seth]

I believe that the transistor that you've mentioned is a Russian transistor, if I'm not mistaken. Can it be obtained?

Nick_Z

I'm pretty sure I bought mine online from China. But I see they sell them in the UK nowadays, so I hope that makes it easier.

2SK2611 K2611 TO-3P N-Channel 150W 9A 900V Power Mosfet TOSHIBA | eBay

[Nick_Z]

I find that when the Exciter is connected back to the positive rail, through a Cfl, the brightness improves, compared to just the open ended Cfl bulb, but the wattage drawn also goes up, and the transistor will get hotter.
I've used the following transistors, 2n3055, TIP 3055t, as well as the 13007 series.
Any of those transistors will work, but the Slayer booster twin transistor circuit seams to run the coolest.
Right now I'm running three transistor and 5 to 6 primary and secondary coils, including the last one which is the exciter coil, all running together.
Some how this combination gives me the best amount of light from a single gutted Cfl bulb, when using the same input from a 10v, 1.4watt, ac to dc wall adapter.
If I use higher voltages, the Cfl lights up even brighter, but the transistor heat issue still is the bottle neck, to how much gain can be obtained with this type of circuit.
I believe that the transistor that you've mentioned is a Russian transistor, if I'm not mistaken. Can it be obtained?
It is also possible to buy 12v Cfl bulbs, and just connect it to the LS 3.0 circuit, or the booster circuit. Has anyone tried that? Seams as that would be the easiest way to go.

Nick_Z

[seth]

Hi Nick and Toto!

Yes, lighting some rooms would be a good start, and I agree that the brightness of the lamps is an issue - my big CFL tube (72Watt) will light up the room the best, but it still isn't as bright as when used 'properly' (I suppose because I am only using 30W).

I'm not really interested in the streamers, although they may be fun one day. I would like to focus on practical uses of the circuit, and I am impressed with how cool this transistor stays on high inputs. It certainly warrants more attention...

Thanks for the replies. I'll get another video up when I have something to show you.

Good luck guys, and keep us posted!

[Nick_Z]

My goal is not to see big streamers, but to light my house, instead.
And in the video you posted you can see that even while using the higher output, there is not that much light being produced by all those bulbs. Probably less than what I'm obtaining on 10v and about 1.4 watts, or less, while lighting a single 25w gutted Cfl.

His plasma bulb does look very cool though.

I'll upload a picture of my current circuit, when I can. But, my camera is not working properly, and I'm still working to improve this circuit.

The stronger transistor is of interest though, as that is the weak link in all of these devices, while still trying to economize as much as possible on the input draw.

Ideally I would like to have solar panels as my input source, which is the reason for my interest in a transistor that can handle 12v, and 30 to 100 watts, even if it is coming from batteries, for now.

Mounting the transistor on a big motherboard heat-sink and having the 12v heat-sink fan mounted on it also, is going to be the only way to go when using higher inputs. I will try this soon to see if I can keep the heat down, because when my "hydrid" circuit kicks in, to a higher output, the light brightness improves by quite a bit, but the transistor really heats up when that happens. About the same as what happens in computer processors, which would also cook if not cooled.

Good luck with your monster Exciter.

Toto: Good luck with your circuit, also.

Nick_Z

[totoalas]

Hi Nick
so your on to a hybrid lol

Last night, I used a simple jr 1.0 and put in series the 2 coils in a flyback with one side combined with earth ( water pipe)and to a fluoro 10 w then to an led 5 w 220 v ac.
@ 90 ma it can both light the lamps with 370 mA the brightest but the fluoros 60 % only.......
Also tried the flyback with slayer circuit bright at higher amps 400 mA going up

I will try slayers latest circuit to supply the flyback transformer and see where it goes

The first test is significant as it can light fluoros and adjust brightness by increasing the mA input
and connection with the ac output is by the gas in the fluoros end to end

to aan led one wire connected direct to the output of jr transformer

Im trying to combine both fluoros and 220 v ac led lamps as my jr1
prefers only one brand which is a third generation led circuit...
New led lamps with strip cooling aluminum fins tends to flash only
but very bright....
I tried parallel caps and increase to 400 mA and still the same

To increase or boost the output of the joule ringer ??? hope you can make one
totoalas

[seth]

Although you've mentioned 30v, and wanting to push it towards 100v input, that does not take into account the wattage drawn. Which is the most important consideration.

I assume that this guy is using at least 1A with his 100V, but it could be 3, 4 or 5! Check the vid!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pMV6...0fGYA9pH2TwbQ=

That what interests me about this transistor. The fact that it's possible to get long plasma streamers like that (looks like about 10cm) without blowing the transistor