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Joulethief SEC exciter and variants

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  • totoalas
    replied
    [QUOTE=Slider2732;136840]Yes, all you need is the transistor in many cases, certainly all else helps, but the matching of caps isn't needed for the effect.
    Here's the magnetic induction circuit I based own experiments on...then removed bits to see what would happen: http://skory.gylcomp.hu/kapcs/Wireless-led.gif
    Hi Slider
    Have you tried charging cell phones wirelessy
    Hope you can make a circuit an video
    NO MORE LO BATT LOL

    cheers
    totoalas

    Leave a comment:


  • Slider2732
    replied
    @All
    DC from AC...at least a start to useability with powering small devices.
    The simple 'trick' is a transistor on the output from a traditional bridge rectifier. The rectifier I used in the below vid came from magnetic induction experiments...1N4148 Shottky's I believe, though were simply salvaged from an old junk board.
    A 10uF cap smoothes the output. The DC low current then runs to a 9014 transistor. Just a small general purpose transistor running on this 1.5V circuit and could be improved several fold i'm sure.
    I'm also not sure why it only works inside the secondary coil, but think that may be due to the receiving coil shape design. A long lead will be trialed next instead.
    The 6mm motor + propeller RPM's are around 1000, which wouldn't really be too bad from 1.5V in any case

    YouTube - DC motor from AC

    Leave a comment:


  • totoalas
    replied
    Radiant Energy

    Enjoy Mopozco Light Show
    nice weekend

    totoalas

    YouTube - radiant energy

    Leave a comment:


  • totoalas
    replied
    Originally posted by slayer007 View Post
    In this video I'm using Dr Stifflers NILS setup with my exciter.

    I have one coil with the load connected to the collector of the transistor.
    The L1 coil is connected to a top load.
    Both coils have an air core and are 23uh around 80 turns.

    The variable capacitor is across the power source for tunning.

    There are 9 leds on the board 3 on the negative side and 6 on the positive side going back to the source battery.
    Use the variable capacitor to adjust the exciter so both sides are the same brightness.


    YouTube - Small Exciter NILS test
    Hi Slayer
    Nice goal 3 point shot lol youre the MVP
    Hope you can add

    photoresistor in your circuit so it can run for months or even half a year

    Also the e lite by gadgetmall I thnk you already done that with aa run and charge ,,,,, want to see in 12 v


    cheers
    totoalas
    Battery Powered Night Lamp by 555 Timer

    Leave a comment:


  • slayer007
    replied
    In this video I'm using Dr Stifflers NILS setup with my exciter.

    I have one coil with the load connected to the collector of the transistor.
    The L1 coil is connected to a top load.
    Both coils have an air core and are 23uh around 80 turns.

    The variable capacitor is across the power source for tunning.

    There are 9 leds on the board 3 on the negative side and 6 on the positive side going back to the source battery.
    Use the variable capacitor to adjust the exciter so both sides are the same brightness.


    YouTube - Small Exciter NILS test

    Leave a comment:


  • Slider2732
    replied
    Yes, all you need is the transistor in many cases, certainly all else helps, but the matching of caps isn't needed for the effect.
    Here's the magnetic induction circuit I based own experiments on...then removed bits to see what would happen: http://skory.gylcomp.hu/kapcs/Wireless-led.gif


    Got a fix for all the folks still burning up transistors. You can make a heatsink out of some sheet aluminium/steel, found on circuit boards or around the house. Dremmel/drill a hole through and mount to a regular heatsink block that larger transistors fit to.
    You make a circle shape with a pair of pliers and put the transistor inside, then squeeze the edge slightly, such that the transistor doesn't move.
    In the pic below is a regular 3904 transistor that used to get hot when used with the ex laptop cell pictured. Now within the heatsink enclosure, it's been running for hours and lighting the neon well
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Slider2732; 04-09-2011, 01:44 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • kcarring
    replied
    Originally posted by jimboot View Post
    I don't understand this at all, my circuit now only has a transistor and the 3cm l2 plus the l1. No resistor, no diode. It still does electrolysis and lights a 20w fluoro WTF?
    That's really interesting. Is there some exact details on this build? Perhaps you nailed resonance. Sounds good.

    Cheers

    Leave a comment:


  • Slider2732
    replied
    I think I can answer you Jim and, within my answer, relate to Jonny's questions.
    You may have gone along the induction route Jim. That's how I started in this whole thing
    Indeed, a transistor out to a coil will give induction wireless effects. If the coil is too small a gauge or too small physically it will heat up...your experiments may confirm that. I was looking at the few circuits of each that i've built recently and noticed how similar the arrangements are. Except, the exciter circuits give a much better wireless range and so are my own choice for the aircraft and other R/C projects.
    Range with induction has been found personally to extend useably to about 2" using the same power sources as exciter circuits, but with that comes quite the amount of power. It may be best to link to a couple of videos to explain better...
    Would it be an idea to create a new thread for wireless electric flight ? or should it sit here ?
    Anyhow, with a small receiving coil of 36 gauge or even finer, there is enough power from a tiny induction coil at 12V to 'almost' make a Picoo-z palm sized helicopter lift off ! The only receiving components are the coil, a signal diode based bridge rectifier and 10uF smoothing capacitor. The exciting bit, is that those components can weigh much less than the original 40mAh li-po battery !
    Here's that helicopter under test, simply held at the back in my hand, but showing the induction power. Also shown, is the direct lighting of a 3V filament bulb, no diodes required:

    YouTube - Witricity helicopter trials


    But my pride and joy so far (besides the Bertha monster lol) has been the Micro Tesla Titan. A somewhat similar car to what I believe is a 'zip-zap' in your pic Jonny. They have left/right/forward/back and also a 'Turbo' button on many of them (people a couple of years back got the circuits to fly believe it or not).
    The Micro Tesla Titan will normally charge the onboard Ni-MH 1.2V cell by being plugged into the transmitter. You wait a minute or so and then it's ready for some driving fun.
    In my system, there is an induction coil underneath a pit stop roadway, that you drive the car up on to. A red LED comes on to show charging and a few minutes later you can drive away with a full charge. It takes about 20 minutes to charge up...but shes all wireless ya know There are similar effects to these exciter circuits, in that in the video below, there are several wireless running LED's in the pit stop area. 2 are for illumination of the road, 2 are position lights, anywhere between which the car will charge up.

    YouTube - Micro Tesla Titan - wireless power fueled


    Dr Stiffler's truck may well have been 9.6V Ni-MH or a 2/3 cell li-po battery. I would bet it would be Ni-MH cells because lipo's aren't safe for charging with anything that isn't designed for li-po charging. There is a lot of worry about the long term storage of cells which can potentially puff up their silver aluminium coatings and catch fire ! Normally, 100% safe, but they are in kids toys and that's always been a concern. So much so, that a lot of my wishes for wireless electric flight are based around safety, rare metals usage reduction and zero onboard power source.

    Power derivation from these circuits is now in what i'm calling Project Washington, the conversion of AC to DC. If I put my single pop bottle tower a foot or so from the 2 bottle tower and connect several good strong 200uF 250V caps in parallel via an AV plug to the output of the tower, I can blow 6V bulbs or run a motor for a few seconds. But it's no good with all that weight and i'm searching for similar methods of energy translation to the methods used in induction above.

    Might be an idea to check out my RCGroups blog (i've been fortunate to have it always on the sidebar of the RCGroups homepage for the last year), where a lot of this is posted about. Same username and the blog is here: Slider2732's blog - RC Groups
    Within which, you can see the diddy planes and all the rest of the flying, as well as the induction experiments.
    1g relates currently to 'round the pole' desktop aircraft. Storch IXb was 1g, Probably the best of which has been a Polikarpov bi-plane, weighing <2 grams. It has a 4mm motor on the front and is powered via USB from the PC. A potentiometer controls throttle and power is sent through hair fine wires up a pole and out to the plane. The plane spins around the pole that's on the desk and takes off.
    Usual micro planes are radio controlled and based around 2x 4mm motors, such as a recent Northrop XB-35 flying wing at 10.5 grams
    Video here: YouTube - XB-35 10.5 grams
    or, Roswell UFO, based on drawings by eyewitnesses in 1947
    Video here: YouTube - Roswell UFO R/C
    Which are the sort of things I wish to be flying with wireless electric power.
    I have until July 10th for this project to bear fruit - some folks may well see the relevance of that date
    Attached Files

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  • jimboot
    replied
    I don't understand this at all, my circuit now only has a transistor and the 3cm l2 plus the l1. No resistor, no diode. It still does electrolysis and lights a 20w fluoro WTF?

    Leave a comment:


  • jonnydavro
    replied
    Bedini exciter step by step build

    Hi I have had quite a few people ask me how to make a Bedini exciter and I realise that my projects arn't the tidiest and it can be quite difficult to see what is actually going on at times so I thought I would make a step by step build which may help others experiment with this interesting circuit.
    Here is the vid.Jonny.
    YouTube - Bedini exciter step by step build




    @Slider.I am very interested in your quest for wireless RC flight.In my youth i spent a small fortune building RC planes only to see them disintergrate on their maiden flights due to a complete lack of understanding of art of controling them but it was fun and the modern scale planes are crashable to a certain extent but i have moved on to kites as they don't mind a crash or two.
    Dr Stiffler a fair while back used i think it was a sec15 to charge up the battery/cap? not sure which of a large radio controlled truck.He made a video of this but i am not sure if it is still available but after seeing this,it stuck in my mind and I came across a micro RC car,I enclose a pic.I was going to try and have a wireless Rc car as it runs on 3v so i thought it may have a chance but before i got to try it,i was annoying the cat with it on its maiden run and the cat launched it and it hasen't worked since but i am keeping my eyes peeled for another .
    That 1g plane you mentioned.Is that including a motor and flight controls?If so,i find that amazing
    What setup are you going to use in the plane for recieving and collecting energy?
    I like your pop bottle coil.that is a monster
    Make sure you try a wide variety of L2 coils with it and monitor the amount of energy your recieving circuit is getting.Sometimes the highest output setup is not the best as the frequency of the transmitter and reciever may be way off and it is best to have them matched as close as possible.
    Happy experimenting.Jonny

    Leave a comment:


  • Slider2732
    replied
    Very important information ! thanks from me for conducting those tests. Written reports and clear pictures of test readings would go a long way to the seemingly constant battle of common thought. It becomes almost annoying when some who don't understand the principles decide that they 'don't want to go near any of that because of catching cancer'
    Over here, I have a Dr. Gauss and a K2...not exactly world renowned electrical test equipment, except in ethereal studies.


    Bertha works
    Here's a quick and quiet video of a xenon flash tube, tested yesterday evening. It's doing that wonderful leaping white plasma thing that folks may be aware of. Power was 12V from one of those EMF'y wall adapters and the transistor remains the 2SC2326.

    YouTube - Bertha exciter Xenon bulb

    While searching for good cross section sized copper for the primary, I wondered about co-ax cable. Sure, the copper is thick and yep it works when loosely coiled or covered in a layer of clear tape...but how about the fine braided material that normally covers it ?
    Glad to report that it DOES work ! 2 winds of that shielding sheath produced approx 80% plasma from the exciter, compared to 3 winds of 20 gauge copper.
    Last edited by Slider2732; 04-07-2011, 06:58 PM.

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  • kcarring
    replied
    Slayer Exciter EMF Test

    In a test of a small slayer exciter, a 2 7/8" tall Slayer tower, powered by the BC338, 6v, 80 mA we did an electronic EMF radiation test testing in both Tesla and Gauss modes. Interestingly, the tower, when fully loaded - (my tower lights up a single 18" 15 watt fluoro tube quite nicely without flicker or dead spots), the reading was 0.00. Occasionally it rose to 0.02 in either mode of testing. If you remove the load, the numbers rise.

    Also interesting, when powered from an AC wall wart transformer... the transformer gave off more EMF radiation than the Slayer tower.

    Leave a comment:


  • Slider2732
    replied
    Thanks Jim
    I'm finding that only above a certain amount of copper or tower size will plasma occur from this setup. My small 3 or 4" height x 1" width coils would give neon lighting to about 4" but would produce just a little snap spark, like touching a couple of 9V wall adapter leads together.
    Yesterday two towers were made. One was called 'Baton Rouge' and skinny, reddish copper and looking like a running baton. It did ok, but needed a ferrite rod at the bottom in common with the tiny coils made by folks. No plasma and lighting neons to only 6" distance.
    The other is my new pride and joy called 'Bertha', 2 pop bottles one on top of the other
    Bertha took 3 degauss coils from PC monitors to make the >500 turns and is likely to become the batteryless aircraft flight tests tower....if all goes well in todays tests.

    Pics are of Baton Rouge on test, Bertha pop bottles ready for winding and then when finished (4 hours later!)
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Slider2732; 07-05-2011, 08:09 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • jimboot
    replied
    Very cool slider. I have yet to produce plasma off my tiny coil. Looks like ill have to pull apart some CRT monitors

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  • Slider2732
    replied
    I'm new to electrolysis, but like what i'm seeing.
    One usage idea may be to collect the gases in a chamber fitted to a Matchbox car, have a little air-bed type one way valve on the end, when the gases get to a certain point the valve collapses releasing the gases into the path of plasma coming off the end of the Secondary and zoooom, off goes the car !
    But perhaps i'm barking up the wrong tree on general thoughts.

    Yeah, if we could gather a good list of transistors that work and what their real world results are, I think it would be a good resource.
    The 2SC2326 is turning into a star performer, at least as far as comparisons for where I am at this point. Plasma starts on it's own and i'm getting dots on my fingertips like some of you other guys lol. Can light a cigarette off that stuff !
    Best experiment though, so far, is the plasma lamp, made using a 12V automotive bulb, Apologies for the messy setup and the non cleaned up former PC heatsink, but here it is

    YouTube - Homemade plasma globe

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