Joulethief SEC exciter and variants

[skaght]

For really fine gauge wire (36 gauge and higher), I've burned it off with a lighter and then used added flux with the solder to get it to stick without having to remove the oxidized layer.

[dragon]

Burn it off with a bic lighter or propane torch then use fine sand paper to shine up the bare copper.....

[FRC]

Thanks Kooler

Acetone has a lot of uses. Did not think of it for wire. Good for improving
gas mileage and killing flies also.

FRC

[kooler]

xee2
nail polish would work i'm sure.. i always use pure acetone..
so i'm sure nail polish will work also.. it really depends on the type of insulation.. the type of 24 awg i got i have to use wire strippers to scratch it off it is so thick.. most the time i just use the soldering iron and tin them..
hope it helps

robbie

[xee2]

removing magnet wire insulation

Does anyone have a good suggestion for an easy way to remove the insulation on magnet wire. I have been using an xacto knife, but that does not work well with really small diameter wire. Will nail poslish remover work?

[jimboot]

Is it harder to tune a mini exciter? On to my 4th coil now but no resonance. I have the scope at the mo across the secondary. is there a better place to put the probes? im a real noob so apologies if my qs sound dumb.

[jonnydavro]

@Lidmotor

@Jonny
I finally got mine to light a 4 watt FL on a AA. I tried several different things and changed things a little here and there but the circuit is still the same. I also tried your wall transformer idea (I happened to have one like yours) but no luck. We may have different house voltage or something.

Glad to see you got your mini exciter to light a tube.I have not tried an led in series with a 4148 but it looks like you can have an indicator light with the added bonus of the power boost from the diode,nice
With regards to the wall adapter exciter,the large 10uh inductor is the coil that seems to work.I tried all types of coils and the 10uh choke was the only thing that worked.
I made some circuit modifications which have increased the brightness and made it adjustable and it will now light the leds using a small sec style 10uh inductor but nowhere near as bright as the larger one but it may help by showing you that you have excitation until you can get the right one.
The voltage difference between the UK and US may make a difference but the output of the adapter is the same so it should have a good chance of working but i can't state enough,how important the large inductor is in getting it to work.
The mods i made were to add a 470pf cap from base to emmitter and put a 100k pot in series with the 24k resistor.Here is the updated circuit diagram.Cheers.Jonny

[Lidmotor]

Tiny Slayer Exciter mounted on a circuit board

Ok still using Lidmotors latest circuit.
Just wound a 2cm coil with very fine wire. Lidmotor it is from the coils in those rechargable torches I have a bunch of them from another project Inserted the ferrite rod with the 2 winds of the other coil. Still nothing. I'll keep trying. Lidmotor is your coil wound onto a pin then inserted into the breadboard at the open end? Is that your top load? I can't get my led in the circuit to light. Not sure what I'm doing wrong.

@Jimboot
I worked more with this tiny Slayer Exciter today and finally mounted it on a circuit board. This video should answer some of your questions.

@Jonny
I finally got mine to light a 4 watt FL on a AA. I tried several different things and changed things a little here and there but the circuit is still the same. I also tried your wall transformer idea (I happened to have one like yours) but no luck. We may have different house voltage or something.

@Slayer
In my quest to get my setup to run an Fl on one AA I tried a PNP 2N3906 and that worked great! It is just like what we used to do--switch the source input leads and change the direction of the indicator LED and off you go. I was going to leave it that way when I mounted the circuit on the board but I found out that a 2N2222 NPN instead of the MPSA06 also got the FL to light. This has been a fun little project but much of this was already done about a year ago.

Anyway here is the video of the circuit mounted:

YouTube - Tiny Slayer Exciter mounted on a circuit board.ASF

Lidmotor

[jimboot]

Ok still using Lidmotors latest circuit.
Just wound a 2cm coil with very fine wire. Lidmotor it is from the coils in those rechargable torches I have a bunch of them from another project Inserted the ferrite rod with the 2 winds of the other coil. Still nothing. I'll keep trying. Lidmotor is your coil wound onto a pin then inserted into the breadboard at the open end? Is that your top load? I can't get my led in the circuit to light. Not sure what I'm doing wrong.

[totoalas]

Mini Slayer Current Output Verification

Hi Jonny and to all

I want to verify my results with 12v 1 ma and my Friend Grounloop from the OU forum give me this response / method which I must do

Excerpts from Groundloop:::::::::::::
I did read about your low amp sec exciter circuit over at the Energetic forum.
How can you know that it is using only 1mA at 12 Volt? Digital meters is totally
useless when measuring at the input of a high frequency oscillator like this. Use
a fully charged very small 12 Volt NiCad battery (say 120 milli Ampere / Hour capacity)
and let you circuit run until the battery is drained. Take a note of how many hours
it did run and then use math to find your circuit usage. 12V * 0,12 = 1,44 Watt / Hour.
So if you circuit uses 1mA from the battery then the circuit should run for 116 hours.
That is maximum 5 days. You can also use a charged capacitor on the input and
measure how long the circuit runs.
You can easily check your circuit power usage by using a big
electrolytic capacitor on the input of your circuit. You just measure
the time it take to discharge that capacitor. The formula for
how much power a capacitor can provide is: P = 1/2 * (C * (V*V))
where C is in Farad, V is Volt and P is the result in Joule.
One Joule is 1 Watt. Divide Joule by 3600 to get Watt pr. Hour.
For the capacitor test on your SEC circuit, do you have a 10000uF 16 Volt
electrolytic capacitor? Or something in that range. You only need to charge
the capacitor until you voltage climbs to 12 Volt. Should take a few seconds.


Alex.
hope this help

cheers

totoalas

@Slayer and totoalas and everyone, great work with the nils .
I think this is a must try and i would like to try your setup totoalas so thanks for posting circuit details .Jonny.
@Lidmotor.Great little exciter you made .I am pretty sure that it will fire a tube off as the neon looks bright so its got a chance.If not,try the 4148 instead of the led.
These little exciters are like mini transformers and i bet they could be used in disposable camera's and other stuff requireing a transformer.Jonny[/QUOTE]

[slayer007]

Hi.Here are some more detailed instructions for those interested in the small exciters.I found out what guage wire I am using today and it is 40swg (0.122mm) or 36awg.
This thin wire is wound in a single layer and makes all the difference.
It takes about half an hour to wind a 2cm coil as you want to make sure the winds are close together and not crossing.
You need a central ferrite rod.
The L2 is 1 turn of 18swg mag wire.
If using a 1.5v battery with a coil 2cm long,you need to change the led to a 4148 diode to light a tube.
A 4cm L1 will light a tube with the led indicator.
The start resistor is 24k and i leave it connected but it will run just fine,disconnected.
Here is a vid and a circuit diagram which is the basic slayer exciter circuit which i have used in all my slayer exciter experiments.


YouTube - 2cm micro slayer ferrite exciter

I also experimented with a new circuit today which is a spin off from the voltage regulator oscillator.I thought I would try an unregulated 3v-12v wall adapter and eventually came up with an exciter circuit which lights leds really bright on quite low current draw and it will light a neon but I can't quite fire a tube off but I think this is a frequency thing so changing the 10uH axial inductor to a smaller value may make a difference.
If anyone tries this,make sure you use a large single wound layer axial inductor,the small sec type ones don't work.
I got mine from farnell electronics in the UK.
Here is a circuit diagram and vid.


YouTube - Unregulated adapter exciter

@Slayer and totoalas and everyone, great work with the nils .
I think this is a must try and i would like to try your setup totoalas so thanks for posting circuit details .Jonny.
@Lidmotor.Great little exciter you made .I am pretty sure that it will fire a tube off as the neon looks bright so its got a chance.If not,try the 4148 instead of the led.
These little exciters are like mini transformers and i bet they could be used in disposable camera's and other stuff requireing a transformer.Jonny

Jonny Great Idea with your circuit.

Have you tried an AV plug around your house plugs?
It looks like it has a strong field around it.Maybe the field is around your house wiring also.

[jimboot]

I probably should have drawn that circuit diagram different. There are two coils but the primary is just two wraps of plastic coated hookup wire around the soda straw secondary. In the diagram the primary is that little squiggle coming off the MPSA06 collector. This is really an attempt at Jonny's setup so you might want to watch his videos again. The true beauty of Slayer's first basic circuit is that the initial tuning is done by moving the primary up and down the secondary to find the resonant frequencies. If you cannot get yours to work try switching the leads on the primary. Many people have trouble there. There are so many variations now on the circuit that sometimes you can get lost on how Slayer's initial brilliant idea basically works.

Cheers,

Lidmotor

Thanks mate. I really appreciate it.
Luvyawork

[jonnydavro]

2cm Micro Slayer ferrite exciter details and unregulated adapter exciter

Hi.Here are some more detailed instructions for those interested in the small exciters.I found out what guage wire I am using today and it is 40swg (0.122mm) or 36awg.
This thin wire is wound in a single layer and makes all the difference.
It takes about half an hour to wind a 2cm coil as you want to make sure the winds are close together and not crossing.
You need a central ferrite rod.
The L2 is 1 turn of 18swg mag wire.
If using a 1.5v battery with a coil 2cm long,you need to change the led to a 4148 diode to light a tube.
A 4cm L1 will light a tube with the led indicator.
The start resistor is 24k and i leave it connected but it will run just fine,disconnected.
Here is a vid and a circuit diagram which is the basic slayer exciter circuit which i have used in all my slayer exciter experiments.


YouTube - 2cm micro slayer ferrite exciter

I also experimented with a new circuit today which is a spin off from the voltage regulator oscillator.I thought I would try an unregulated 3v-12v wall adapter and eventually came up with an exciter circuit which lights leds really bright on quite low current draw and it will light a neon but I can't quite fire a tube off but I think this is a frequency thing so changing the 10uH axial inductor to a smaller value may make a difference.
If anyone tries this,make sure you use a large single wound layer axial inductor,the small sec type ones don't work.
I got mine from farnell electronics in the UK.
Here is a circuit diagram and vid.


YouTube - Unregulated adapter exciter

@Slayer and totoalas and everyone, great work with the nils .
I think this is a must try and i would like to try your setup totoalas so thanks for posting circuit details .Jonny.
@Lidmotor.Great little exciter you made .I am pretty sure that it will fire a tube off as the neon looks bright so its got a chance.If not,try the 4148 instead of the led.
These little exciters are like mini transformers and i bet they could be used in disposable camera's and other stuff requireing a transformer.Jonny

[Lidmotor]

The simple circuit

Thanks mate. Just learned what an AV plug is In Lidmotors diagram and latest vid I could only see a single coil. I was going to try this one first as it seemed simpler. Already wound the bifilar with a ferrite rod & using the MPSA06 Got a lot of boits and pieces atm watching DrStifflers, johnnys & slayers vids but I think I'm missing some of the basics.

I probably should have drawn that circuit diagram different. There are two coils but the primary is just two wraps of plastic coated hookup wire around the soda straw secondary. In the diagram the primary is that little squiggle coming off the MPSA06 collector. This is really an attempt at Jonny's setup so you might want to watch his videos again. The true beauty of Slayer's first basic circuit is that the initial tuning is done by moving the primary up and down the secondary to find the resonant frequencies. If you cannot get yours to work try switching the leads on the primary. Many people have trouble there. There are so many variations now on the circuit that sometimes you can get lost on how Slayer's initial brilliant idea basically works.

Cheers,

Lidmotor

[totoalas]

Mini SLayer @ 12 v 1 mA

Hi Sky and all
Using the circuit in post 1616
the cap in L2 is replaced with 100 nf
Lia out connected to 30 leds via av plug
L1b in connected to any point in bread board one end of the 3 neons connected and the other ends just insert in the bread board
Tranny mod by jonny b to e and c to b of MPSA06
Red led neg to ground of circuit and the other to hanging e of tranny mod
White led on av plug hanging on the terminal block without connection
The fluorescent lamp 8 watts used instead of ferrite rod to adjust current

Lib out connected to any part of bread board
12v psp power supply 12 v replaced the celfone charger

I think we may have
Slayer Power Station using the bread board
with lots of energy ...... field of dreams
For charging caps batteries and endless neons leds

hope this help

cheers

totoalas

Hi totoalas, thanks for the informationa and pic.
I'm having trouble getting much of anything out of mine, could you give all the details of your setup if you please, thanks.

My L2 coil is on a 1-3/8" diameter tube at 4" long.
L2 coil is 18 gauge at 22 turns at 300 milliohms.
L1 coil is 24 gauge at 2 ohms.
tried mpsa92, tip42, 2n3906 transistors.
I have 6 yellow leds in series off one AV plug leg and another 6 leds off the other and they are about 50% of full brightness.
When using 12 volts and the smaller transistors i can slide L2 to a position where there is tolerable heat in transistor, though output isn't great.

Maybe i need to use smaller gauge for L2, or smaller for L1, any help appreciated.
peace love light
Tyson