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i envy you all for getting your micro slayers working
and jimboot in response to your question, no. slayer exciters have an open end of the bigger or secondary coil, open end could mean an avramenko plug driving a load like a led board, or it could be a top load meaning a metal mass that transmits this electric field this puts out. With a top load you usually draw more energy but it allows you to light up an avramenko plug off of a bare piece of metal across the room. and then you could always leave it open ended but why let all that energy go to waste? and i believe that adding a load like a neon actually decreases the amperage draw a tad.
this circuit seems like a good first build but for me it has been more troublesome than a different slayer i built.
Thanks mate. Just learned what an AV plug is In Lidmotors diagram and latest vid I could only see a single coil. I was going to try this one first as it seemed simpler. Already wound the bifilar with a ferrite rod & using the MPSA06 Got a lot of boits and pieces atm watching DrStifflers, johnnys & slayers vids but I think I'm missing some of the basics.
Hi @Slayer and @jonnydavro,
Finally the Mini loopstick ferrite Slayer exciter replication was successfully done. But I did not use MPSA06. Instead I used TIP3055. Current consumption is horrenous: 120mA @ 12VDC, to light a 5W CFL at around 50% of fool strength.
But the Avramenko plugged 12 series wired LED seem to light quite well( almost 80% full strength)at around 150mA @12VDC. TIP3055 can go up to 15VDC input without blowing up.
I will post a photo tonight when I come back to my lab.
Now I will try the NILS version and the Microntran transformer version of Xee2 variation of Slayer circuit.
Thank you guys for lending a hand!
Last edited by aaron5120; 03-18-2011, 05:27 AM.
Reason: ww
i envy you all for getting your micro slayers working
and jimboot in response to your question, no. slayer exciters have an open end of the bigger or secondary coil, open end could mean an avramenko plug driving a load like a led board, or it could be a top load meaning a metal mass that transmits this electric field this puts out. With a top load you usually draw more energy but it allows you to light up an avramenko plug off of a bare piece of metal across the room. and then you could always leave it open ended but why let all that energy go to waste? and i believe that adding a load like a neon actually decreases the amperage draw a tad.
this circuit seems like a good first build but for me it has been more troublesome than a different slayer i built.
@ Slayer, Jonny, & All
I had a chance to make one of these tiny coil exciters and it worked. I used a piece of soda straw for the coil form and a ferrite tuning slug. I played around with different circuit arrangements and finally ended up with just the basic Slayer Exciter circuit running on one AA battery. Lots of fun.
Hi totoalas, thanks for the informationa and pic.
I'm having trouble getting much of anything out of mine, could you give all the details of your setup if you please, thanks.
My L2 coil is on a 1-3/8" diameter tube at 4" long.
L2 coil is 18 gauge at 22 turns at 300 milliohms.
L1 coil is 24 gauge at 2 ohms.
tried mpsa92, tip42, 2n3906 transistors.
I have 6 yellow leds in series off one AV plug leg and another 6 leds off the other and they are about 50% of full brightness.
When using 12 volts and the smaller transistors i can slide L2 to a position where there is tolerable heat in transistor, though output isn't great.
Maybe i need to use smaller gauge for L2, or smaller for L1, any help appreciated.
peace love light
Tyson
HI Guys this exciter looks exciting . I've been working with rodin coils the last 4 or 5 months and I wondered if anyone had tried using one in an exciter circuit. Also I've watching @lidmotor s last vid on the slayer today just finished building a circuit but then realised it's a bifilar coil doh!
Anyway hope to get a working one soon.
It reminds me a lot of the old borderland vid where they beat the speed of light.
Thanks.
@ Slayer, Jonny, & All
I had a chance to make one of these tiny coil exciters and it worked. I used a piece of soda straw for the coil form and a ferrite tuning slug. I played around with different circuit arrangements and finally ended up with just the basic Slayer Exciter circuit running on one AA battery. Lots of fun.
Nice circuit @Slayer. Iwould like to replicate this circuit. Can you tell which gauge do you use for the L2 21 turns coil? What is the purpose of the ferrite beads at both poles of the power source? please.
Thanks for the help, and I have had fun working on this circuit.
aaron5120
Hello Aaron5120
The two ferrite beeds are just there to help with the rf filtering and to help with impedance.
You should be able to replicate this without them.
The L2 coil is 21 turns of 21 ga. plastic coated wire.
With this setup I have been having very good results.
This is based off Dr Stifflers NILS setup he showed us along time ago.
If going back to the source battery this will NOT work without the C2 capacitor.
I have not tried different capacitors for C2 but other non polarized capacitors should work also.
Nice circuit @Slayer. Iwould like to replicate this circuit. Can you tell which gauge do you use for the L2 21 turns coil? What is the purpose of the ferrite beads at both poles of the power source? please.
Thanks for the help, and I have had fun working on this circuit.
aaron5120
With this setup I have been having very good results.
This is based off Dr Stifflers NILS setup he showed us along time ago.
If going back to the source battery this will NOT work without the C2 capacitor.
I have not tried different capacitors for C2 but other non polarized capacitors should work also.
Hi .
@arron5120.Hi.The amount of turns is not critical for this as a 4cm one and a 2cm one both work well.What is important is the wire and the presense of a ferrite rod in close proximity to the windings.It will not work without the ferrite which is from an am/fm ariel,mines from maplins.The wire I used I think was either 32,34 or36swg but I am not sure but I will be able to clarify the exact gauge after I have been to the electronics shop which will probably be next weekend but the wire is the thinnest I have used for a slayer exciter and the start of the L1 has to be secured in the breadboard with the start resitor to jam it in.
There is no choke in the circuit,just got a few other unused circuits on the breadboard.
It is the bare bones Slayer exciter circuit with just a transistor and a 24k start resistor which I leave connected.I put an Led indicator from emmiter to base and swapped this for a 4148 diode when I used the 2cm coil.So to sum up.1 transistor,1 24k resistor,1 LED an L1 coil an L2 coil 18swg mag wire and 1 ferrite rod.
You can use an mpsa06,that is what I used in the vid but today I tried a BC182 and this also worked well for lighting tubes and it was this transistor which runs right down to 0.206v.
Also if you are taking amp readings,try and measure across a 1 ohm resistor so you keep the meters internal resistors out of the circuit.
I don't think you will have any problems getting this going and thanks for trying it out.Any problems just ask.happy experimenting.Jonny
.Jonny
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Thanks jonnydavro, i will try your ideas with the circuit. Today I am doing some winding with a ferrite toroid. I use the wire from the Am radio loopstick antenna. 165 turns of L1. L2a and L2b the same number of turns (17 turns). The circuit did not fire up. No oscillation. I reversed back to the loopstick version.
Have not tried the capacitor and 1N4148 option. But tried using different transistors, and the TIP3055 did performed the best at this moment. Still only get the CFL partially lit.
Tomorrow I will tried the Totoala idea and the variable cap across the power source idea from Slayer.
Thank you all for the great ideas!
aaron5120
In this video I just wanted to show how adding a small variable capacitor across the power source you can controll the current intake.
Using the the capacitor across the power source along with the one across the L2 coil.You can still light the leds as low as 1 mA off 12v and still get fairly good light.
Around 7.5 mA @12v the leds are around full brightness.
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