@Inquorate.
I think you are right.I tried different inductors and the lights are brighter when the same tigger coils are used for transmitting and recieving..
I also added a 2nd identical recieving circuit and the leds lit up bright on that too.jonny
@Cosmicfarmer.Great video and fantastic light show.WOW.You are very creative both with a camera and electronics.Loved it .
That is a fair number of leds you are lighting and you show the benefit of getting the balance right.One thing i would try though is adding a croc lead with a small metal mass attached to the negative leg of the last led in the string.This should get the 100 led board stable and may make them brighter if thats possible.Jonny
@ mutten.Hi. So glad you are trying this and good idea with the homemade trigger coil and sgate.I may try that too as it seems far easier than joulethief torroid winding which is a pain.See If you can get one from a camera or a 4kv from electronics shop.Jonny
@Lidmotor.
Thats good news.Thanks for confirmation. The pan positions are important and the base pan amp adjustment makes it tunable which is important in finding the best frequency for light and input power.The alu tuning strips is a good idea and i bet we see some great ideas on this. I too have a greater output with the alu trays but can't fit them all on my worktop so i use the small pots which makes it easy to mess and change things but they still give a good output.
It is great that others are adding their ideas to this and i am amazed by their creativity.
I got some new croc leads for xmas so there is a santa. Regards jonny.
@Amigo.Hi.Welcome and thanks for sharing your experiment and findings with us. I do not have a scope so would you say the waveform is similar to what you would see with a SEC 15 OR is it different again?and what is your input in mA?
Your use of a wire wrap on the hv coil is an interesting trigger method.
With regards to transistors.I am still on my first.I think this is very much like Dr Stifflers SEC 15 with tuning being important as i have found that you can run this circuit on 140mA and the transistor gets hot and then tune it down to say 60mA and the lights are brighter and the transistor is not hot so it is easy to overdrive the transistor for no performance gain.
That "funny" stuff on the positive and negative rails is pretty useful for wireless as it is nearly as strong as the main output so by adding a couple of extra trays you can have a very large field but it would be great if we could figure out a way of utilising it for charging.Happy experimenting.Jonny.
Originally posted by Inquorate
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I also added a 2nd identical recieving circuit and the leds lit up bright on that too.jonny
@Cosmicfarmer.Great video and fantastic light show.WOW.You are very creative both with a camera and electronics.Loved it .
That is a fair number of leds you are lighting and you show the benefit of getting the balance right.One thing i would try though is adding a croc lead with a small metal mass attached to the negative leg of the last led in the string.This should get the 100 led board stable and may make them brighter if thats possible.Jonny
@ mutten.Hi. So glad you are trying this and good idea with the homemade trigger coil and sgate.I may try that too as it seems far easier than joulethief torroid winding which is a pain.See If you can get one from a camera or a 4kv from electronics shop.Jonny
@Lidmotor.
Originally posted by Lidmotor
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It is great that others are adding their ideas to this and i am amazed by their creativity.
I got some new croc leads for xmas so there is a santa. Regards jonny.
@Amigo.Hi.Welcome and thanks for sharing your experiment and findings with us. I do not have a scope so would you say the waveform is similar to what you would see with a SEC 15 OR is it different again?and what is your input in mA?
Your use of a wire wrap on the hv coil is an interesting trigger method.
With regards to transistors.I am still on my first.I think this is very much like Dr Stifflers SEC 15 with tuning being important as i have found that you can run this circuit on 140mA and the transistor gets hot and then tune it down to say 60mA and the lights are brighter and the transistor is not hot so it is easy to overdrive the transistor for no performance gain.
That "funny" stuff on the positive and negative rails is pretty useful for wireless as it is nearly as strong as the main output so by adding a couple of extra trays you can have a very large field but it would be great if we could figure out a way of utilising it for charging.Happy experimenting.Jonny.
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